Ah cool. I guess just pay extra 6% GST when it arrives?

No need. Just pay tha price in the aliexpress.

It will arrive till your door step without any extra cost.

Nice. Thanks!

You can go over to 3D gadgets in Taman Maluri Cheras, KL to have a look and ask question.

They carry few brand and CR10s too.

Many sample to check around.

After get my 3D printer, try many type of printing and learn some trick.

1 of my satisfied printing for CNY decoration.

2018 CNY Doggie



Print using PLA. Bare doggie.



Put a layer of polyurethane before paint on it using acrylic paint.



Get some cheap flash led light print a AA battery case and solder it together.



Done.





The file is from Thingiverse credit to Dimanassitto.

This post has been edited by ozak: May 28 2018, 10:22 AM

Nice, is the surface porous like there are bubbles in between the layers?

Nope.

Quite smooth Using 0.1313mm layer thick, 0.8 wall thickness, 20% infill, 210°c head and 60° bed.

I should use 0.1 to increase the fine line.

This PLA have to raise up the temp to avoid the base warp.

A closeup look on the surface.



This post has been edited by ozak: May 28 2018, 10:23 AM

Why the odd 0.1313mm layer thickness? Did you derived that value from the threaded rod pitch or the stepper motor microstep limit?

I assume the CR10 is a Bowden fed hotend since you are running the temp quite high for PLA.

It actually is 0.13125. But Cura round up that figure.

I read it here some odd figure layer height setting give better result due to motor step. --> https://www.mpselectmini.com/optimal_layer

Not sure what is the cr10 hotend type. I need to try other temp setting to solve the problem. So far max I set is 214°.

But I will try even higher temp later on for ABS print. Which I understand require max 250°c. Now in the middle of setup an enclosure and heater to stabilize the surrounding temp.

I read a blog post or article about the odd layer resolution a long time ago but didn't really test the idea. Maybe I should try that out some time. Only headache I will get is finding the metric pitch out of an imperial threaded rod for my z axis.

Good luck with ABS, you will need to have a minimum heated bed temp of 100°c and have to clean out the hotend each time you switch materials. You should consider PETG instead of ABS if you want engineering plastics.

You can convert to metric after the final calculation.

Brought the PETG also. Haven't try it out for both material. I need to print something for outdoor use.

Need to make an enclosure, dry plastic container to store filament, heater and controller before further to print using others material. Damn, more thing to do.

Some upgrade and modify done on my 3D printer.

Modify the extruder and sensor filament hole to insert a ceramic bush. To make the filament travel smooth with any OFF direction. Much more easy to insert the filament.





Tired of swapping the filament out. Everytime have to put into the seal bag to keep moisture out and takeout another to use. Than sometime keep on the printer without keep into seal bag long.

Make a container to keep the filament while able to use when need it. 4 filament can be store in the container. The idea is from youtube.

Most of the parts I already have. Only brought the silica gel and the temperature/moisture monitor.

1st seal the Ikea 22L container cover to airtight it. Have the Ikea container lying around and the window rubber seal is left over.




Glue the Ceramic bush into the fitting. This to smooth the reel filament into the fitting hole.




Drill some hole on the container and glue the fitting on it. The height of the hole is crucial to the filament fitting in. Too low or too height will cause the filament fitting in angle too step.




Continue....

This post has been edited by ozak: May 28 2018, 10:26 AM

Print a shaft holder and the reel spacer. Reel spacer is use for separate the reel. So it won't grind each other.





Cut a 1/2" PVC pipe to the length of the container. Screw the holder into the container. Seal the screw hole with silicon seal.



Print the clip to clip the cover tightly. Insert 4 pcs air tube into the fitting. This air tube use as filament guide and also seal the air from going into the container. The tube will be plug when not use.




Assembly everything. Put in the silica gel. Done.

When want to use particular filament, takeout the tube, pull the filament out and fit into the extruder. While can keep the filament airtight away from moisture.



The remaining item haven't install in is the temperature and the moisture meter to monitor the filament. Waiting for the shipping.

This post has been edited by ozak: May 28 2018, 10:27 AM

There is a Makers Carnival 2018 host by Nott's Makers Club.

17th March, 9am-4pm at University of Nottingham Malaysia Campus.

Check it out --> https://www.facebook.com/events/91626686521..._tab=discussion

Nice, don't know if I will make it though.

Probably will be going.

To learn something and see got cheap filament to buy.

Everytime my 3D printer having issues or breakdown I am learning something from it.

Good luck filament hunting.

Learn some technique of printing. Not the printer.

With more type of material in the market, it is getting complicated to understand each usage and the way to print better.

You will be surprised how little we know the more we work on 3D printers. Technique, material property, mechanical issues, etc everything regarding engineering and science is being tested here.

My recent issue isn't technique more about the printer design setup and safe guarding print operation. Besides that, I just learn the hard way about how hotend material is affected by its wear rate.

Hey guys. I pulled the trigger and got the Prusa MK2S instead of the CR-10S I originally wanted. Kinda addicted to printing stuff now


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