Thanks for the feedback Butthead! Guess I should be targeting the foil or super six as my next bike haha! Although I am still attracted to the Kuota Kharma simply because of the value for money aspect.


On another note, I might join the Sunway-PD ride tomorrow. Sound fun, just not sure I can get up in time

uhhh.. you might want to stay off the supersix evo.. the top tier ultimate costs like 10k USD... even the Red spec'ed Evo 2 is something like 5k USD..that is unless you want your head lobbed off...

it is surprising that the kharma only costs under RM7k...even though it is their entry carbon frame spec'ed with 105 components...

definitely worth the buy comparing it to other bigger brands...even the BMC road racer is jus short of 10grand if my memory serves me right...

ya, the pricing for kuota surprised me too...plus thats a quote from a reputable LBS, not some shady online retailer.

Still have heard lots about "ahem" goods... counterfeit frames from China, specially for big names like scott, specialized, pinarello. Hope this isn't one of those deals.

hmmm... thought i remember you said you saw it in KSH TTDI?

i know leong for quite some time, didn't know they sell counterfeit pinarello's... and they jus moved into a bigger fancier shop somemore...really dangelut buying branded bikes nowadays....

i know last time (long long time ago) many shops will sell aluminum MTB frames branded with other logos like GT, Gary Fisher, Marin and stuff like that... and it is acknowledge the frame is not made by that brand and is totally accepted by the buyers due to their price...

for road... i have never heard of late such things.. not even MTB nowadays due to the uprising of manufacturers that sell bikes so cheap there is no point buying a counterfeit frame...

if they really did sell counterfeit frames at the original price... then i would say that would be cheating... but if they sell couterfeit frames at counterfeit prices... then i guess it is acceptable since both parties are willing to get into a deal..

This post has been edited by butthead: Mar 2 2012, 05:37 PM

Just to clarify, I did not mean that they were selling counterfeit stuff. Just that the pricing is unbelievably low.

So bloody tempting.

In any case, given the specs involved, campy groupset + wheelset, would be a reasonable purchase based on that aspect alone.

wrong price posted maybe? haha if it is really around 6k i better get that one before getting my merida but anyway I'm at the point of giving up on my cleat positioning..at first I thought i nailed the correct position without any pain felt during the ride..somehow the feeling is still there and i adjusted and adjusted but to no avail now my left knee already in pain. both knees are in pain actually..not really painful but feels uneasy there..and pain a bit if pushing in big gears or hill climb

You can try taking butthead's advice, which is to try riding without the cleats first to see which foot position angle fits you best. I find that the foot positioning is the primary key to resolving my knee pain problem. That and the saddle seat height too

If its both knees then it must be quite bad indeed. I only had gotten it in my left knee

hi all.. im new cyclist.

looking for a good shifter and maybe a set of hydraulic brake for my mtb+roadbike.. small budget since im a student. anyone got one lying around can gip me ah..

My guess would be...I should put some sort of spacer to my pedal to increase it width between the leg..riding without a cleat showed that my feet try to stay at the very outer edge of the pedal. Now I have 2 question. Where can I get the spacer thingy? and lastly where can I get the screw for my look keo cleats? seems like 2 of em already lost their shape due to multiple adjustments

well, we never know... bike shops do make a profitable margin.. maybe they jus give up making that much and rather sell volume than getting high margins...

you do have to know if you like campy first anyhow... replacement part would be somehow the hardest among the big 3 group manufacturers.. with SRAM and Shimano sort of still the majority of the market..

that is how it is.. 1 day you feel good and the next day the setup goes out the window... your position on the bike also changes as you improve and improve athletically... you do have to take that into account...

think there is no such thing as a free lunch... although we are working, doubt we are any richer than you would be... on top of that, it is our hard earned cash for giving things to you right, logically speaking those are components that will cost a couple hundreds and i think most would rather sell it than to give it out...

maybe if you state your intentions it might be better... the word "good shifter" and "hydraulic brakes" + "give" dun go well together... going to sound like "anyone has any SRAM force shifter or Avid Juicy that they dun want can give me?"

if you said "my shifter screwed up, anyone has any 10-s shifter in working condition can give me" , then maybe you still have a chance...

you are referring to Q factor ... spacer on pedal spindle is a total no go unless the manufacturer allows it... you reduce the thread count that goes into the crank arm and risk putting more stress load on the spindle body since you are increasing the leverage on the spindle by moving it further away from the anchor point...

i think only look keo 2 max and certain speedplay models with stronger spindles allow for spacer addition and only a small amount like 2mm...

---

Added on March 2, 2012, 10:48 pmwhy don't you try moving the cleats more inwards and see if it solves the issue?

i would have given you some of my screws.. but mine doesn't look in any better condition... ask the bike shops.. i trust they have additional ones that they don't mind giving you...

This post has been edited by butthead: Mar 2 2012, 10:51 PM

thx for your suggestion butthead. I think I have tried every possible rotational angle for the cleat. I think I found the sweetspot for my right leg, but although a bit weird it did worked. I'm a bit of duck-footed (toe pointing out) and seems that turning the cleat more towards the neutral position (toe pointng straight forward) works for me. Is it true that we have to follow the same ways our foot are pointing during walking? That means for duck footed, the cleats tip should be pointing inwards towards the bike am I right?

But the left one is still not fix. Will try to seek out the screws from the shop..hopefully they have abundance of it.

BTW, anyone going for the FT Fun Ride tomorrow? I'm going if I can wake up early and of course not with my clipless system

This post has been edited by mrjgx: Mar 3 2012, 07:56 AM

Thought of doing only 40k today due to lack of time.. ended up cycling for 47km.. somehow 1 way is like 22k return is another 25k
Bandar Tun Hussein Onn - Balakong - Silk Highway - Lekas - Semenyih Toll - return

If anyone is interested with the ride can join me next time, plan to cycle to nilai or mantin next time
http://www.trainingpeaks.com/sw/ZUM6FV5ILUQP6HQKL276VZ54FM

Did 800m run after that but legs like not responding well lol..

hey bro,

i think we are staying quit close see my today work-out, but i'm MTB with 26x2.1 tyre

http://www.sports-tracker.com/#/workout/jm...o94b3hhpvqln4j2

yup.. clip tipping inwards towards frame will result in your foot pointing away from your frame...

normally.. most athletes (maybe not the best example) will try to keep their feet centered as that is usually the best and most natural way as the bones a aligned straight over the pedal and improves power transfer, thus utilization on fixed cleats to keep them there.. they jus dial it to perfection and comfort comes after it..

what happens is that your feet will not stay straight over the course of an entire pedal stroke.. even seated and out of saddle riding will result in a bit of variation... which is why pedal systems like speedplay actually allow for a spring re-centering function float... meaning that your feet will be able to twist over a pedal stroke and at the moment it no longer needs to twist, the spring will help recenter it back...

but if it works for you.. then stick to it... there is no golden rule unless you really want to take into account bio-mechanic considerations...think you can try the red clip 9 degree float next when you wear your current one down...

i am using the black 0 degree fixed cleat and i am considering to drill my shoe when the time comes to see if pushing the clip further back will result in a better pedal stroke for me...

u stay in Alam Damai? you might have seen me.. I see someone waving at me on my way back.. you seems doing the contra direction lol
only 28.3km for your workout? seems really far for me.. are those highway safe to cycle? your route seems to be less hilly..

silk highway is quite a nice place to learn climbing too, although half as strenuous as hulu langat.. but still a vigorous workout too..


BTW.. i realise those pro rider their sitting position is almost like standing.. their legs are quite straight down to the pedal.. I realise when I pedal.. my leg bend quite upwards.. still not very comfortable with the pedal position..

i'm stay near there, that not me, mine is a MTB and i'm using off road tyre.

only at silicon highway got more cars.

cool looking...





This post has been edited by butthead: Mar 3 2012, 09:55 PM

same builder... 10.8 pounds on a steel bike with hybrid carbon seat stays...


not so much to be said about the price though...


http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/03/02/nahbs-...-project-light/

fairwheel bikes shot at road bike trial stunts...


this one was better... did a backflip at the end...
NJmdb1Oe2h8

thx butthead for your informative reply. I guess I found the correct one (the trick is to adjust in mm, not cm which I did previously, and soon after the little adjustment I quickly took a short ride and see if the pain is there during pedalling). Somehow I guess the mild pain is good for me to find the correct angle for my leg so when there is no pain then I can assume the angle is right.

However the amount of rotational cleat angle is differs for both legs. The right one seems pointing out to neutral while the left is slightly toe-out. At first the lbs suggested for the red pedal but thinking that the colors doesn't blend well with my bike I took the grey one (I blame the lbs for not telling me the different of float degrees )

Hopefully i nailed the position right this time!