Wow... The timing light seemed expensive...

Yours is in normal range... Mine is ignition timing too quick dy... As according to peekaboo's link. Crossed-referenced few links also state my ignition timing out... Will go check out then.

I thought our stock spark cables are quite good by itself? And the limiting factor is the spark plug itself rather than the cable... Noobie here...
About the vacuum gauge... I bought brandless MONZA brand under 40 at kedai abang again, 20 for a good hose which rubber is as thick as stock ones, and installed myself. Sorry, its the last set, took 2 personnel half an hour to search for it...
Installation kat halaman rumah... Very easy 1 day job with guides from neosaint99 thread. Or you wan me offer installation also can
I'll up this on blog later...
Here, Neosaint's99 VERY POISONOUS thread... [enter with antidote only]
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=541408&hl=


By ear punye mechanic then i rather tune myself la... Lol. Ooo, must be as advanced as possible... Will take note. Btw, I did saw instructions for DIY this light... I think its fake la...
I think check at SC for the actual timing ok or not first, cause my RM38 gauge maybe not be well-calibrated.



Seemed like very serious like that. Ok, i'll floor it later before I go SC...



That's poisonous...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 7 2011, 04:34 PM

I just floored on a slope at 5th gear... Got 2 sounds actually...
One sounds does sounded like knocking. Do you mean the tin can might not be that "kosong"? Cause it doesn't sound like "kong kong kong" but rather very thick walled and small tin can with lots of marbles...
Another sound is basically whole car shaking+jerking+dashboard+steering+4 wheels going to torn apart sound... Even the battery light also flickering dy if I dun downshift immediately

See all these poison everyday in this thread hand very fast itchy one

Second that...

Perhaps really short circuit? or the relay?
VS might help... I had seen satria neo meter flickering like mad until someone gave him a VS.
Problem solved without changing the meter...
Better wait for sifu to reply or just go to a trusted wireman to check up your headlights wiring...

Ok... So it's not my distributor timing advance thingy... Will see la...


Whats this port for? The two pins shows zero resistance towards each other but it is not ground itself and not 12V supply also...

How to access power window switch? Can't pull out although loosen screws on cup holder and leg there...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 8 2011, 12:25 AM

Falling apart means dashboard all use clips only lo... Batt light flickering means sudah mau mati engine...

Whats your phillips or HOD bulb Watt rating? If you use like 110/120W bulb with stock wiring confirm connector habis, headlamp habis fast and reflector also habis fast... I read this somewhere...
Cause kedai abang say if I wan use their promo less than RM10 H4 110W bulb need pull another wiring to settle...

Today went SC for 30k service... Manyak mahal... But for the sake of the service book stamp, okla...
Complained about the air con pretensioner bearing... They say no prob, add lubricant then jalan... Now still got eeeh-eeeh sound at high rpm

According to my previous owner maintenance record, the installation is free at proton service centre... No charges on seat belts and workmanship.

But for this mobile team, charges?

So now the problem is brighter or higher?
If one side is still brighter after switching bulbs, maybe the grounding? Cause many iswara taxi around my area one bright one dim... And their H4 bulb is on! If didn't notice you'll probably thought the bulb blow or what... So maybe grounding?

If want to adjust the height of the light spread then poolcarpet's advice is true... Stock headlamp can use phillips screwdriver and Bosch/Local lamp uses Hex screwdriver or Torx screwdriver...
Maybe relay? Try use branded Bosch one... RM8 per piece...
Complete air con service!!!
This car baru 27000 km and air con level always 2 "clicks" from bottom only

EDIT: Complete air con service causes white smoke? Did Aircon-Air-Intake to your Cold-Air-Intake is it?

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 13 2011, 02:55 PM

Pic pic so can poison us mah...


Thats cheap and worth the price! Pic pic... Where you get it?


I use car 2 clicks only speed 1 or 2 even hot day... If got passenger then nearly half bar... (If night 2 clicks speed 1 I dy can sleep while driving) No doubt LMST air con is lots colder than waja and comparable to Wira...

These few days parents drive my car, FULL bar max speed My wife kena abuse 3 days kaw kaw dy, I think when I got back the car sure got a lot of bruises to gao tim...
Oh? Can adjust one ah? Noted...

Air con to CAI?


This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 14 2011, 02:37 PM

Quite true... Minimal to no improvement lar... The hose so small also compared to CAI, mana boleh suck a lot of air wo?

Eneos 1U selling also... Just saw it today... But didn't grab it...
Saving money for MyVi 2nd version/Saga FL series fog lamp...
Your interior doesn't look Proton to me... Great job over there

I can verify its true... its 39.90 I think... Stretchable up to 2m easily... It's Turbo hose stated on the box, but i guess can use also?

It even comes with two coloured rings and two tightener, no need buy separately.

Or if you want stock CAI like VERY VERY old proton saga one can get from here:
AME AUTO PARTS (PJ) SDN. BHD.
25, Jalan 21/11A SEA Park
Petaling Jaya 46300
Selangor.

It's a proton parts stockist. The CAI hose is not in production anymore and even the Proton parts shoppe in Glenmarie also habis stock since 2007... When I bought at RM60 (VERY expensive, if glenmarie only selling at RM51 in 2007), it doesn't even come with a fastener... Got the fasterner at another RM4... I just bought it last month...

The boss say still have "some" stocks for this... But I dunno now still have or not as I had posted the place at
Practical mods/add ons for saga iswara

You mean the intake there the hole? It's round I thought?
Well, i'm not sure of what the engineers thought of during design of LMST Air intake, cause it's without the stock hose connected to suck air from the fender part... But old sagas like 1990's all has the hose... That's the reason I got it... My first thought is the stock hose is removed to make it RM25k / RM27k

But still, no doubt that our ori air intake without the hose is kinda placed in the best position already... I just thought that maybe when air passes through the radiator part the air might be slight hotter... And when idling on jams where hot air is still inside the engine bay...

For the difference before and after add... Maybe i'll try to remove it next week and see how...

The stock CAI I mentioned is on your second pic...
Rm25? Thats quite worth the money, brothers selling at 40 but longer though...
Dyno? Itu perlu tengok tengok lo...

Sorry I didn't make myself clear before...

This is the CAI hose from stock proton sagas/iswaras before LMST design... Not sure whether LMSS has it though. Rare item now... Fits perfectly at the fender rectangular hole... I covered up the another circular hole with some double layer insulflex so the engine bay hot air won't mix with fender cold air... The position of this 1990 saga's CAI is quite good as it is protected from dust and water. (Unless you took your car for a dive) And the design at that time is by japan engineers... Personally I trust their design more...

Fuel saving/improvement all those I didn't even bother to give them a second look. Unless it's so called proven in terms of going dyno in your way... There's even those vacuum turbine thingy or CPU fan to be installed on air intake or something... Mostly are marketing gimicks only. Placebo effect is highly possble case over here. Nevetheless, some might work out of the blue though...

I will rather invest on Tufoil engine treatment or those manual/auto transmission treatment... But got snake oil problem, sudden stop using treatment then engine kong faster la...
Bought X1-R engine treatment from Proton Parts Centre till now also din use, pricing enough for me to get a better gauge

The answer is below:
Btw the item code in the receipt is MD108871, description is "DUCT, AIR CLEANER HOSE PVC", Model "SAGA,ISW 12V".
The last stockist with the hose... Or you can try Proton stockist near your area... Maybe they dun even realise they have it / make a profit out of this old old junk hose!

Waliao-eh? Malaysia takde USA ada?

Well, I was very keen in finding it in Nov when I got the car, but I got the CAI on my first try... Sorry bro, would be nice if can deal with you.

I don't think we have that right?

Luckily it's reported... If not a lot more people will get conned.

Add those bar on iswara? Need to check whether nice or not le. But not that good if banging people on their back, sure kena their rear bonnet kau kau...

Maybe install on back of LMST, then no need scare kena bang+damage banger's car kau kau.

Try change battery first as suggested. Location of alarm box is at driver's side accelerator pedal there. It's on the right of the accelerator pedal. Just need to pull the carpet on the right then can see dy. A black box, on top of it sticked with a copper wire insulated with silicon-ish insulation. The wire is it's antenna. Read somewhere before try to straighten it (Check with uncle google)

If last time can activate alarm very far but now very near only can activate/not functioning, its battery.
If last time can activate alarm but need to be very near to car's body, after change battery also like that, then open up your remote. You'll notice something which can be turned with a precision screwdriver. Thats some sort of capacitor which can adjust transmitting power/range/wavelength or some sort of stuffs. Turn a little (Like 1mm) at a time and press the button until you get the max range or desired range. You may need to try a few complete turns only can get.

My family waja used to need to touch the car body's only can activate alarm with new battery, after adjusting the capacitor, now can range more than 5-8 meters easily (stock alarm). From McD second floor to opposite road side parking

But i'm not sure whether will consume remote battery faster as need more transmitting power, but currently don't have this problem yet. Few years already heavily used the GP battery still main tahan. Maybe because just need to press less than 1 sec per time as the remote signal is strong, compared to my LMST which need to press 2-3 sec near car only can get it activate, which will waste the battery more. I had adjusted my LMST remote, only managed to get 2meters max , not thinking of changing battery yet (It's like RM8 per piece!)

Midnight poison eh?
Pricing not stated?

I had seen people DIY cut-off fuel pump thingy as extra security for "el-cheapo" alarm...
But iswara LMST uses ancient mechanical fuel pump right?

Can I use this wire and add a switch to thid connector to enable/disable the "thing"?
When I installed my vacuum meter, I plug out the connector as it's blocking my installation.
But I forgotten to plug it in and attempted to start the car... The car cranks but engine doesn't start. Attempted like 5 mins only found out didn't plug in this connector.

What is this wire for?
This connector near air filter:


The plug wire leads to here:



EDIT:
Another extra ques... What is this port for? It's under our driver side dashboard...



This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 22 2011, 05:50 PM

You mean this pic on our carburator is starter kill solenoid? I won't be able to start the car when I disconnect the wire... Only can crank till starter kong...


This port...

I found out dy. I wanted to install my Turbo Timer initially but found out this new stuff to play with... This port original intention is a reminder for key not removed after engine off... Like those car will beep if key not removed...
It has zero resistance between the pins when key is inserted and connection unlatched when key is inserted... It acted like some type of switch... Anyway, I had figured out the wiring and may post on my blog bout this next year ...

Btw all the images are taken from LMST...
EDIT: Added spoiler and bigger pic for the port...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 24 2011, 09:51 AM

Sometimes if my gear not positioned correctly the car seemed to can't start... I'm driving LMST though...
Eg: I must shift the gear to the right only can start... But sometimes this method doesn't work out also... Engine stalled in middle of road and it just go "click"... Waliao-eh!

I think time to add starter relay

EDIT: Btw, what wire you used to add to the relay part... Cause I scare wire too thin... Those used in household extension cords wiring thick enough?

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 25 2011, 01:37 PM

If you want ori saga CAI like this:

Then try to search at proton stokist... I got mine at RM60 which is kinda expensive... It fits the square hole on your engine bay... Insulation? You can opt for insulflex and gao tim...
Thats all in my blog...
But if you want aftermarket type go find sifu catacomb as suggested...

Huhu... Just added key buzzer... Now the beeping sound makes me feel like i'm entering a waja...


EDIT: Added spoiler... sorry for the darn large size...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Dec 29 2011, 02:40 PM