LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V25

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LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Drivers' Forum! V25, Keep it up!!! Old and Retro machines

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cyanboy	Feb 3 2012, 10:53 PM Return to original view \| Post #61
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Feb 3 2012, 06:55 AM) is 6.28L/100km the average?? It's unbelievable to achieve that level of FC for iswara... QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Feb 3 2012, 12:55 PM) Bro your FC so unbelievable ... when you drive you always keep an eye on your speed and rpm lor ? This FC is recorded on FULL highway from KL to Muar... Plus a little town driving at there... I went down after I got my car just 2 weeks... Erm, its fully stock setup from proton : 1. 1 driver 2 passenger. 2. No luggage basis. 3. Not stock mia barang is cheapo vacuum meter installed... I keep my eye on my RPM cause try not to rev more than 2500 rpm... Then counter balance with vacuum meter not less than 12cm/Hg or 5 inch/Hg during acceleration... But to pecut 110km/h sure touching 3000rpm... Whole journey only 110km/h max 130km/h... So control right leg... Btw DaBestOne, Speed, RPM, Vacuum all use... When I driving I priorities vacuum reading then only RPM... They assist my right leg and the timing to change gear... properly... I dunno my fc was that good This post has been edited by cyanboy: Feb 3 2012, 10:59 PM
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cyanboy	Feb 4 2012, 04:22 PM Return to original view \| Post #62
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Feb 4 2012, 08:22 AM) what is your average fc on town driving? I dun have chance to test out yet cause I drive this car very little... Lol... QUOTE(Peekab0o @ Feb 4 2012, 12:52 PM) 6.28L / 100km ? -.- .. We got like 45L fuel tank let say if u pump full petrol... 6.28 divide 45 = 7.16 x 100 km means ur full tank can go 716 km ? i dont believe this ... unless ur carburetor is running super super very the LEAN ... hows ur car water temp like ? Erm... Lean I dunno la... But my distributor timing a bit advanced than recommended... (Stock Porotn settings) And when I got the car, the car had just done 20000km service at proton, spark plugs, gear oil all changed... Water temp max 3 bar... I didn't see 4 bars before yet...
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cyanboy	Feb 7 2012, 01:22 AM Return to original view \| Post #63
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(cyanboy @ Feb 3 2012, 05:41 AM) Mine LMST 6.28L per 100km... Which is 16km per litre... Fully stock rev not more than 3000rpm and little bit town driving... But need to go pump full tank after trip more accurate la... Hello... New update on my fc... Went I-City few days ago and can calculate... Now with: Full load of 1 driver 3 passengers Full tank of fuel Air con at mid bar and speed 2 About 60km highway and 63km street 10mins+ idling at car parks waiting for passengers Now what I got here is 6.413 L/100km... or 15.5km/L... Travelled for 123.1km used 7.894 litres of fuel... EDIT: Double post This post has been edited by cyanboy: Feb 7 2012, 01:27 AM
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cyanboy	Feb 7 2012, 02:47 AM Return to original view \| Post #64
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(salimbest83 @ Feb 7 2012, 01:56 AM) hi guys.. is this model got power steering ? http://www.mudah.my/Proton+Iswara+Aeroback-13607245.htm shud take lmst or that iswara? It has unbelievable mileage for it's year of make... If you got the car try ask for service manual to avoid milage reset conspiracies...
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cyanboy	Feb 7 2012, 10:08 AM Return to original view \| Post #65
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(salimbest83 @ Feb 7 2012, 02:58 AM) yeah. i oso think its 'xboleh percaya" punya mileage. wanna call him tomorrow. if real, is it better take than lmst? Here some tips: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Perkara yang paling utama semasa membeli kereta terpakai pastikan keadaan cuaca ketika memeriksa kenderaan itu adalah terang. Jangan sekali-kali memeriksa kenderaan di waktu gelap. lagi.. PEMERIKSAAN LUARAN Sila periksa pemegang pintu Pastikan pintu dan bonet boleh dibuka dan ditutup dengan senang Pastikan 'bumper' belakang tidak calar dan karat Pastikan sistem ekzos tidak berkarat Pastikan rim tidak bengkok dan berkarat Pastikan semua lampu berfungsi dengan baik PEMERIKSAAN ENJIN Pastikan keadaan enjin mestilah bersih Pastikan enjin tidak diubahsuai Pastikan keadaan enjin dan pastikan tiada bocoran. Bagi menunjukkan ada kebocoran pada enjin, anda boleh meletakkan sekeping kotak putih di bawah enjin selepas menguji pandu kenderaan tersebut. Tiada kebocoran pada radiator dan sistem penyejuk Pastikan semua 'belt' berada dalam keadaan baik PEMERIKSAAN DALAMAN Pastikan pintu dan bonet boleh dibuka dan ditutup dengan mudah Pastikan semua cermin berada dalam keadaan baik Pastikan karpet kereta berada dalam keadaan baik Pastikan lantai tidak berkarat Pastikan 'dashboard' tidak retak Pusingkan setering ke kiri dan ke kanan Tiada masalah dengan pedal brek dan clutch Pastikan penghawa dingin berfungsi dengan baik Pastikan tali pinggang boleh dipakai Pastikan 'jeck' clan tayar simpanan berada dalam keadaan baik CUBA MEMANDU DALAM MASA 30 MINIT Cuba hidupkan 'switch' tetapi jangan hidupkan enjin Pastikan meter suhu bergerak Pastikan lampu minyak enjin menyala Pastikan lampu bateri menyala Cuba hidupkan enjin Pastikan semua meter berfungsi dengan baik Pastikan tiada masalah dengan sistem gearbox Cuba matikan enjin dan hidupkan semula Pastikan tiada kebocoran minyak enjin berlaku di bawah Semasa memandu kenderaan tersebut, pastikan tiada bunyi dan gegaran Tiada masalah semasa penukaran gear Cuba pusingkan stering 360 darjah.Adakah ia mengeluarkan sebarang bunyi? Cuba anda pandu kenderaan tersebut clan lalui kawasan yang ada bonggol kerana ianya akan menguji sistem suspension Cuba biarkan enjin kenderaan itu hidup dalam beberapa minit dan pastikan suhu kepanasannya berada dalam keadaan stabil PEMERIKSAAN TERAKHIR Perkara paling penting ialah periksa nombor casis dan nombor enjin. Pastikan nombor tersebut sama dengan dokumen pendaftaran kereta You can go back to page 33 of this thread... There's some explanation and some war over there... Lol... Now what you can do is test drive this LMSS then test driver another LMST... See which one you like better... Whacking kau kau like no tomorrow when test drive is free also:hehe: I prefer LMST due to: Less than RM15k and newest car produced for this price range... (Not scared of rust+maintainance problem later cause going to use this car until condemned) I prefer iswara 2007 lotus interior design myself rather than previous iswara design... The dashboard design looks great for me... And also due to my parents had a saga before, family don't prefer sit the same-interior-design again... Lol.. New exterior design... Prefer LMST lights and spoiler... and the absence of big plastic on the rear bonnet... Hehe... Basically I like new lar Seriously, for quality wise, LMSS is the take... All original iswara settings preserved... No cut cost mia barang. QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Feb 7 2012, 08:51 AM) unbelievable... were you going at 5th gear 2k rpm all the way? Added on February 7, 2012, 8:56 amone way to check, look at date code on the tyres... No... Probably 110km/h-130km/h only... Of course 5th gear... My vacuum meter reading always more than 20+cm/Hg, 10inch/Hg. Date code, yes... My car 30000km only on tyre change indicator line... So probably the tyre should just be the second change... So the date should not be anywhere recent... If everything goes correct, ask mechanic see whether kereta potong/BIG accident...
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cyanboy	Feb 11 2012, 12:51 AM Return to original view \| Post #66
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(fantagero @ Feb 10 2012, 10:35 AM) I just drove the car just now.. i think the brake in "ok" condition. but have to press more than 1/2 to make sure makan. probably I got used with better braking of other brand (sentra, city, prelude ). I read from people that they dont sell this kind of duct anymore. any alternative to do this mod if we cant get the part??? http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/541408 from neosaint99's CAI duct mod does the fender cavity provides enough air for this?? coz from the look of it, the cavity has really tight space From neosaint's thread last 2 pages... I just got it last december... I think may still have stock. Try call first... QUOTE(cyanboy @ Dec 2 2011, 11:00 AM) You can try get this CAI hose for RM60 without metal fastener at: AME AUTO PARTS (PJ) SDN. BHD. 25, Jalan 21/11A SEA Park Petaling Jaya 46300 Selangor. (Beside CIMB Bank) I just bought mine from there. It's a bit more expensive than where neosaint99 got it. But since it still have stock so okok lah... The stock one looked very nice in engine bay. I asked the boss there he say still have some stock... He say if want more maybe need order (Since not in production dy means that's all left) Maybe can try there?
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cyanboy	Feb 15 2012, 08:00 AM Return to original view \| Post #67
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	Now this forum is fully orientated on sagor track day huh? Btw, my tyre going to die off... Had been running 30k km with stock tyres... From previous thread noted that good and cheap (worthy) tyres are hankook, yokohama c drive 2... This 2 ok compared to our stock CC5? Should I upgrade from 185/60 R14 to 185/65 R14? The price different doesn't shows that much... Odometer will show 0-5km/h difference?
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cyanboy	Mar 10 2012, 01:11 AM Return to original view \| Post #68
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(afsarudy @ Mar 9 2012, 01:13 PM) Guys, do you guys know where to buy LMST handbrake knob? I buy the universal one but cannot fit la. Mine had being stolen before. Or do you guys got one to letgo? Hehehe.... Please do PM me yeah? thanks.... Aiyo! This also take... QUOTE(afsarudy @ Mar 9 2012, 02:32 PM) Not only handbrake la. Even coin drawer, floor mat, the whole upper-rack at rear bonnet (at speaker there), and even the wood piece that cover spare type also they take. All these available at ori parts store... -Coin drawer probably proton parts store, -Bonnet upper rack either proton part store or go those audio/accessories shop, ask them to fabricate a board for you... Maybe can consider to add speakers together too Had seen some accessories shop even have premade one, but dunno hav holes or not... - Woodpiece for spare tyre maybe ask accessories shop to do together for you... - Floor mat at proton centre cost RM200+ per set... No joke... Better opt for aftermarket cheap ones or aftermarket expensive silicone one...
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cyanboy	Mar 27 2012, 01:19 AM Return to original view \| Post #69
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(Lowenkreuz @ Mar 26 2012, 10:46 PM) Can you please give more details about this bosch relay kit? Have a look here for DIY. Although task is not difficult, not recommended to self install unless with some experience... I myself going to DIY soon cause the "click" is making me crazy... http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...er+relay+iswara
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cyanboy	Mar 27 2012, 08:35 PM Return to original view \| Post #70
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Mar 27 2012, 07:09 PM) this has been debated over and over, and there will never be a clear conclusion. on a road with speed limit 80km/h, you are driving 80km/h on left lane. other cars are 90-100km/h on middle and right lanes. car comes from behind and honk. 1. are you road hogging? 2. or is the car behind driving recklessly? debate till the cows come down from the condo, there will be 50% saying #1, 50% saying #2. no point wasting time and breath talking about this. why not talk about iswara? what other modifications anyone doing? is anyone using a voltmeter? i'm thinking of finding one prob cigarette lighter slot, so i can see voltage and be alerted if i notice the voltage dropping. anyone know where to get these? Just get an el-cheapo fake apexi turbo timer less than rm30 any get a ciggie lighter male plug. Solder/wire it together and done.. Even cheaper than a digital/analogue multimeter, yet still got notification on low voltage (can be adjusted) Added on March 27, 2012, 8:36 pm QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Mar 27 2012, 07:09 PM) this has been debated over and over, and there will never be a clear conclusion. on a road with speed limit 80km/h, you are driving 80km/h on left lane. other cars are 90-100km/h on middle and right lanes. car comes from behind and honk. 1. are you road hogging? 2. or is the car behind driving recklessly? debate till the cows come down from the condo, there will be 50% saying #1, 50% saying #2. no point wasting time and breath talking about this. why not talk about iswara? what other modifications anyone doing? is anyone using a voltmeter? i'm thinking of finding one prob cigarette lighter slot, so i can see voltage and be alerted if i notice the voltage dropping. anyone know where to get these? Just get an el-cheapo fake apexi turbo timer less than rm30 any get a ciggie lighter male plug. Solder/wire it together and done.. Even cheaper than a digital/analogue multimeter, yet still got notification on low voltage (can be adjusted) Btw, anyone using oversized wiper for iswara? Cause I think there is still space for a longer wiper.. This post has been edited by cyanboy: Mar 27 2012, 08:36 PM
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cyanboy	Apr 13 2012, 12:39 AM Return to original view \| Post #71
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(nfsu230190 @ Apr 12 2012, 08:17 PM) guys help me, my car low beam cant turn on but high beam no problem.. Already try change the lamp, but not solve the problem.. Anyone have any idea how to troubleshoot ?? Check relay also. Pricing as indicated by Quazacolt, RM20-30. Any minor problems like bulbs/fuse/sockets/relay over RM50 is overpriced. QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 12 2012, 09:18 PM) if fuse only including labor also not more than rm20-30? even if wiring issue, i dont think will over rm50 also. maybe others can comment further since i typically just replace bulb and problem solve lol
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cyanboy	Apr 14 2012, 02:56 AM Return to original view \| Post #72
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Apr 14 2012, 12:35 AM) Recently my lmst will vibrate when i change my gear to Reverse... and when i turn off the engine after driving, the engine will "vibrate a few times but vibrate harder than when i put my gear in reverse"... do any sifus know what's going on with my car ??? and by the way my lmst is auto one because the previous owner mod it.... The engine vibrate after turning off is called as dieselling... Check link below: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dieseling I raised this problem before at this thread V25... Btw my car is just 30000km also have this problem. They suggested: » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « 1) Off the engine "slowly" = ON>ACC>OFF, step by step. (It worked for me initially, but now it still jerk no matter how I turn it off) 2) Carbon built up on our carburetor, also known as "carburator syndrome". Just need to clean our carburetor when this problem occurs. (One of sifu quoted it'll occur near to every 5000km, might as well just do it at regular service intervals) 3) You can try to retard to distributor 1st. Loosen both bolt at the distributor's bracket ends, by facing the distributor adjust it anti-clockwise a little bit only and try it out. (I'm running on advanced distributor timing according to my cheapo vacuum gauge, but I prefer the ori setup by proton so I didnt perform this step yet. Its good to have a bit advanced timing as long as does not "pink" easily.) 4) And from V24: (More serious case) Direct quote here: Asker: QUOTE(mych91 @ Aug 2 2011, 10:29 PM) hey guys, i recently bought over a 01' iswara. basically the car has very bad performance and high fc. the car feels very sluggish at low rpm, 1-3k rpm. whenever i step on the throttle, feels like the car does not give any response, then kicks in a little power, then stops again. it's sort of like a jerk lar.. besides that, it also has dieseling problem and i notice oil spillage from the carb to exterior of the carb mouth and also a little oil on the air filter. what should i do? >< advise? Ans: QUOTE oil stain at ur carb can be using thin oil and ur engine have lost compression at piston ring hence the a blow by accured pass the oil ring sluggish can be from faulty spark plug to a faulty carburator have to trouble shoot 1 by 1 hows ur fc i full tank can get you how many km ? QUOTE(AlexLee277 @ Apr 14 2012, 02:54 AM) sup guys, might be buying a >1999 iswara AB or saga lmst soon. anything to look out? Page 33 of this thread may give you some enlightment on difference between Iswara 1999, LMSS, LMST... Personally I prefer second hand car direct owner with service manual. General tips of receiving new car: (Just blend in with the 2nd hand one) » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « Perkara yang paling utama semasa membeli kereta terpakai pastikan keadaan cuaca ketika memeriksa kenderaan itu adalah terang. Jangan sekali-kali memeriksa kenderaan di waktu gelap. lagi.. PEMERIKSAAN LUARAN Sila periksa pemegang pintu Pastikan pintu dan bonet boleh dibuka dan ditutup dengan senang Pastikan 'bumper' belakang tidak calar dan karat Pastikan sistem ekzos tidak berkarat Pastikan rim tidak bengkok dan berkarat Pastikan semua lampu berfungsi dengan baik PEMERIKSAAN ENJIN Pastikan keadaan enjin mestilah bersih Pastikan enjin tidak diubahsuai Pastikan keadaan enjin dan pastikan tiada bocoran. Bagi menunjukkan ada kebocoran pada enjin, anda boleh meletakkan sekeping kotak putih di bawah enjin selepas menguji pandu kenderaan tersebut. Tiada kebocoran pada radiator dan sistem penyejuk Pastikan semua 'belt' berada dalam keadaan baik PEMERIKSAAN DALAMAN Pastikan pintu dan bonet boleh dibuka dan ditutup dengan mudah Pastikan semua cermin berada dalam keadaan baik Pastikan karpet kereta berada dalam keadaan baik Pastikan lantai tidak berkarat Pastikan 'dashboard' tidak retak Pusingkan setering ke kiri dan ke kanan Tiada masalah dengan pedal brek dan clutch Pastikan penghawa dingin berfungsi dengan baik Pastikan tali pinggang boleh dipakai Pastikan 'jeck' clan tayar simpanan berada dalam keadaan baik CUBA MEMANDU DALAM MASA 30 MINIT Cuba hidupkan 'switch' tetapi jangan hidupkan enjin Pastikan meter suhu bergerak Pastikan lampu minyak enjin menyala Pastikan lampu bateri menyala Cuba hidupkan enjin Pastikan semua meter berfungsi dengan baik Pastikan tiada masalah dengan sistem gearbox Cuba matikan enjin dan hidupkan semula Pastikan tiada kebocoran minyak enjin berlaku di bawah Semasa memandu kenderaan tersebut, pastikan tiada bunyi dan gegaran Tiada masalah semasa penukaran gear Cuba pusingkan stering 360 darjah.Adakah ia mengeluarkan sebarang bunyi? Cuba anda pandu kenderaan tersebut clan lalui kawasan yang ada bonggol kerana ianya akan menguji sistem suspension Cuba biarkan enjin kenderaan itu hidup dalam beberapa minit dan pastikan suhu kepanasannya berada dalam keadaan stabil PEMERIKSAAN TERAKHIR Perkara paling penting ialah periksa nombor casis dan nombor enjin. Pastikan nombor tersebut sama dengan dokumen pendaftaran kereta I'm not sure of what to look out, but my LMST does 16km/L on full highway when I got the car. Lol... This post has been edited by cyanboy: Apr 14 2012, 03:07 AM
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cyanboy	Apr 14 2012, 11:38 AM Return to original view \| Post #73
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(kazuya90 @ Apr 14 2012, 09:59 AM) thank for ur informative reply.... so is dieseling an important factor ??? do i need to service the carburetor or leave it like that ?? and how about the vibrating when i put my gear into Reverse ??? is it crucial and do i need to service it also ??? I'm not ure how severe the problem is. For me i'm fully ok as fc good, distributor timing not very advanced, and i'm only on 30k km. But if your case seemed like case 4, be aware or get a trusted mechanic and ask. If LMST manual reverse gear, problem can be solved as easy as pushing into gear 5 and then change to reverse. There'll be no krak sound or jerk. I'm not sure on your reverse gear since yours is converted into auto. But thats doesn't occur normally in auto cars, better get it checked or wait sifu's response.
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cyanboy	Apr 16 2012, 04:45 AM Return to original view \| Post #74
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(nightzstar @ Apr 14 2012, 02:33 PM) hi sifu sifu sekalian, i just painted my car and recently my door visor on all four door dropped because the tape they used does not stick well and here i removed the tape and the sticky residue on my car's door and using 4wd. I noticed that after i remove the residue, the paint look abit different or imperfect, isit because of the residue or the paint problem? Btw, still got some sticky residue that is very hard to remove even with 4wd, thinking of kerosene but will kerosene damage the new paint? Pics as below » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « apologised me for the big reso. The paint looked imperfect as the sprayer may had stick the visor before it really dries. Even the paint is oven-baked dry, to really let it FULLY dry and attached it'll take some time. Seemed like the first layer coating of the clear coat is removed with the double sided tape in 1st pic, 2nd pic ok. As suggested by sifu, u may use kerosene/thinner but might risk your clear coat... WD40 is not as penetrant and as good as kerosene/thinner... Btw, if you're into protecting your paint like me, avoid putting WD40 directly on the roof of car... Sames goes to anything metal. It might scratch the car as Metal VS Metal/Clearcoat... QUOTE(adrianadck @ Apr 15 2012, 06:04 PM) Hi all, just wanna ask if i add voltage stabilizer, grounding cables and change air intake kit will have increase of performance? LMST 2006 @@ One of Waja sifus commented that unless our car wiring has really been a mess, (Really really messy he means) VS is virtually useless. Grouding will definately help on old cars, where the dimming of lights during compressor kick in will be less, but our engine is in direct contact with chassis with HUGE metal block... The metal block even have lower resistance than any thick grouding wires out there... However, if you're prepared to spend/install, go ahead for cars more than 5-10 years as our stock grouding may have oxidised. If its less than 5 years the effect wouldn't be that noticeable/placebo. QUOTE(AlexLee277 @ Apr 16 2012, 12:19 AM) guys, can i know how to determine what year of iswara got come with power steering? For LMSS version all has, LMST low spec silver RM25k in conjunction with Malaysia 50th anniversary version has no power sterring installed, however, RM27k LMST has it. To determine whether iswaras has ower steering, check for this (power steering fluid bottle): at behind your front passenger headlight...
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cyanboy	Apr 17 2012, 01:20 PM Return to original view \| Post #75
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(nightzstar @ Apr 16 2012, 09:36 PM) i see, so i have to ask the spray shop to respray again the first pic? the second ones the residue is difficult to take off, maybe i will try with wd40 again, thks for the reminder, will not put anything on top of my car, i like the new paint lol To respray or not depends on you... If the visor dropped by itself and this is what you get, maybe can ask the shop to help spray clear coat for small area only without cost. Or if they refused to offer, should be ok cause the torn off area will also be stick again with double sided tape. If cleaning is done, i suggest 3M exterior mounting tape (acrylic tape) about RM15 a roll for the visor. Try car liquid polish with cloth to remove the tape, but bear in mind WD40 and liquid polish does leave a layer of oil on top of the paint. Probably you'll want to use alcohol or something to degrease the area, only then stick it. If u bring this to accesorries shop for installation, they'll probably just end up with thinner and then stick it with cheap acrylic tape. But normally won't fall off after that... QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Apr 17 2012, 08:42 AM) it looks like the new preve is a steal for rm59,990 compared to 40+k 11 years ago for the iswara! Actually preve is quite a good offer compared to current Saga FLX SE...
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cyanboy	Apr 18 2012, 04:57 PM Return to original view \| Post #76
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(wmd3477 @ Apr 18 2012, 12:39 PM) hi guys, how much does it cost for me to change the rubber alongside the door frame,the black ones? and where can i find 3M double sided tape?i want to tape my visor Hardware shop for 3M tape. Get the grey coloured one, called as exterior mounting tape, rm15. Dun get 3M permanent mounting tape although it's cheaper , since the tape will be in contact with water. QUOTE(adrianadck @ Apr 18 2012, 01:40 PM) if you don mind cheap skate a bit then you can try this> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2...80070005&type=3 lolz Good one. Probably will DIY for my car since it's cheaper than any big D, P rubber selling here. But u thought to reduce wind noise in more drastic way will be by removing visor? One sifu here mentioned before as he owned iswara with and without visor type..
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cyanboy	Apr 19 2012, 03:29 AM Return to original view \| Post #77
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 18 2012, 05:49 PM) yeap, as visor increases wind resistance hence increased wind noise. Thanks mate. Btw, nice thread on your ICE setup. Kena poisoned dy while researching for ICE... Cause got shops offering me bang for bucks for component, amp and woofer. Tomahawk i think... Now i'll probably save up... QUOTE(AlexLee277 @ Apr 19 2012, 02:06 AM) Guys, when the iswara are idle and not moving, the radiator fan should move or not? And the fan next to it is for the aircon one right? It shouldnt move unless the aircon is turned on and cold right? Please tell me guys... Thanks in advance Radiator fan, as usual to other cars, spins only when the thermostat kicks in... Meaning when water/coolant is hotter than set temperature, depending on stock thermostat (88 degree Celcius) or aftermarket thermostat (82 degree thermostat). (Temperature are for reference and may not be accurate, quoted from this thread earlier also) If the radiator fan just keep spinning, engine might run lower than optimum temperature, besides the fan gets to heaven faster, its not really good for engine and fuel economy. Highway cruise/light throttle/misty/cold morning may take longer time to heat up the engine, or running lower than pre-engineered temperature, which wouldn't do any good I think... Btw, for LMST, not sure for LMSS or other versions, the radiator fan might keep spinning when you switched from engine running (ON) to ACC. But in less than 30secs, the fan will turn off automatically. If you're just done with spirited driving, the fan might spin fully for a minute or so, perhaps it's some protection mechanism to cool down the water in radiator, better than just leaving the water 80+ degrees in the radiator.However, if you just can't wait, just turm it to OFF position and the fan will stop, normally i'll wait. So if you realized this is the case, its normal. INFO: This option also occured in Persona, but the fan does spins even when key is removed. (Proton somehow is more drastic towards Persona) And yes, air con fan should't move if air con is not turned on... And won't be spinning if your interior is cold enough than the preset temp.
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cyanboy	Apr 23 2012, 08:23 PM Return to original view \| Post #78
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	My battery gave way during breakfast.. End of 2.5years MF battery.. Installed Bosch S3 Mf NS60.. Just wondering whether anyone tried NS70 on iswara? Btw now my car is one crank start. Not yet experience starter motor relay prob.. Probably after received car battery already flattening since last Nov. Speaking about vibration.. There's a certain vibration tht kicks in after 140.. Any hints? It's only 30000km.. And how to resolve aeroplane sound from speakers?
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cyanboy	Apr 23 2012, 10:30 PM Return to original view \| Post #79
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 23 2012, 09:03 PM) - 2.5years for MF is considered good - wanted to NS70, however i need to get new bracket and weld the area near my battery as battery acid corroded the chassis didnt have the time to do it until now >_< atm plan to buy the battery first, then arrange time with a workshop so i can get my car within a day - it depends on what kinda vibration. for my car no problem. just that the engine noise (constant 6-7k rpm, stuck on 3rd gear auto, go figure the stress lol) and NVH (lol wind against milo tin) is unavoidable - check grounding, cable connections (RCA overlapping power cables/source?) etc. if cannot solve urself, bring to reputable ICE shops Okay, didn't realize is that good... Lol. Is NS70 that huge? Luckily I didn't direct take NS70, I was scared of it being undercharge and damage prematurely. If scare corrosion probably MF can do the job... Even if it leaks, its only leaking on the top part of battery. Probably corroding the sticker on top only and the battery holder. Hmm, engine noise is overwhelming at 4k rpm. I switched off radio, was trying to see whether the car has anything to note at the speed, rattling, etc. Its only at directly 4k rpm and about 140/150km/h. Special rattling of dashboard kicks in. Kinda weird... But since car quite new can't really figure out what prob yet. Just remembered I grounded my cheapo turbo timer module at my dashboard (Not installed yet). Probably the unused Clarion stock RCA were touching the same metal piece as well. Aeroplane like taking off when compressor kicks in and high rpm (2.5k). Off the radio and aeroplane noise. mode off. Will double check later... Thanks. EDIT: Confirmed grounding issues. Insulated RCA jacks and it's gone. This post has been edited by cyanboy: Apr 24 2012, 08:27 PM
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cyanboy	Apr 24 2012, 08:41 PM Return to original view \| Post #80
Getting Started Junior Member 257 posts Joined: Oct 2009	QUOTE(mH3nG @ Apr 23 2012, 11:14 PM) Our rim design is a pain in the arse to clean. 16 spokes!? Took me a good 5 mins to clean out each wheel and you weren't kidding about the amount of brake dust generated by those rapid stop pads. Yup the 16 spokes kills, even with stock brake pads after a week. Washing exterior every week here, interior vacuum and shine and waxing once a month. Good for some free exercise.. Quite lucky cause this car aren't full size sedan as compared to today's sedan. QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Apr 24 2012, 02:37 AM) our iswara bracket/tray is for ns60. ns70 is considerably bigger so it wont fit by default engine noise is a given, even luxury cars have them. it's just suppressed via sound dampening/sound proofing. as for my car, hood sound dampener (default stock one) is kinda worn out over the years. so year it's a little loud when i approach the redline regions for grounding, yea better check that first, and also try to separate rca's and power/grounding cables Airport closed after grounding done properly. Well, our hood has dampener by default? I insulflex my hood.. Noticeable improvements I'll say. Dampener really helps. QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Apr 24 2012, 06:00 AM) 2.5 years is good! Speaking of batteries, just to share About RM15, fits very nicely and now I can see the batt voltage to monitor state of the battery and alternator Hopefully this will give me some early warning before battery wants to kaput QUOTE(poolcarpet @ Apr 24 2012, 01:25 PM) less than RM15. Yes can use on any car, just plug into cigarette lighter socket. For iswara, it looks 'built in' as the socket is recessed. bought from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-Digital-LE...31570fe&vxp=mtr the same seller has other voltmeter and some looks possible for customization/diy, but i went for easiest portable version seemed like stock design. Btw installed apexi turbo timer.. Running good.. Rm15 is cheap btw.
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