Able to get 16km/L or 6.28L/100km.
Meaning 700km+ per full tank. Achieved it when I received my car from another owner. All stock with <3000rpm highway and little of town driving. Vacuum reading not less than 5inch hg (Light foot). KL>Johor>KL same day.

Btw my distributor a bit advanced from proton setup.

Now doing about 10km/L due to heavy foot town drive, idle waiting ppl, jam also, and probably engine oil going to die off soon...


I already pening...

What you wanted to mod?

You'll only have a 3 speed gearbox for all of the gearbox listed. Expect fc to climb a lot If your conversion is from 5speed manual to 3speed auto.

And if you frequent highway driving, 3speed auto is not so recommended. You'll rev your engine more due to limited 3speed availability.

However, expect your left leg and hand to rest, tackle slope easier,probably more comfy ride too (less jerking in shifting gear)
Check.with v24... It's lmst signature problem..

Sponge is also recommended. Just make sure you get a firm one, not soft type and stuck it like no tomorrow.

To completely solve this prob, go sc recalibrate all adjusters for the air con distribution panel. Or if you free, take out the radio panel, then remove the plastic beside air con panel, then push those levers at its right place.. All max to edges of gear.. (once u saw it u'll understand what I mean) If this still doesn't solve the air con flowing everywhere, then need to manually adjust those shutter door I don't know dy.

It's not advisable to switch the air con distribution. Lmst signature prob.

25k spec wont have this problem due to no air coon distribution adjuster.. (That's one of the positive point for 25k LMST )

For me, I dun really like the air con on my feet... LMST air con is considered chilling cold at half bar. Can't imagine it blowing at the feet. Once you switched to feet, prepared to stay like this forever, (More air con to feet eventually), and lose a lot of air from front panel. Unless go back sc everytime you decided to switch back

My sponge is like those firm sponge used for sitting cushion... So is quite firm... Just cut it oversized bit and stuck it there. Mine is grey coloured sponge btw, if this helps.

I never thought of ductape before... But I guess it'll seal better then sponge. You'll still get some air with sponge, so I prefer sponge

This problem can be solved by covering exterior air inlet inside the cabin. By covering it you will have no option to allow exterior air in next time. Instructions is somewhere in v24 or v23. I'm also experiencing this problem since day 1. Even my previous owner complained at sc on everytime service.

Btw, today went for tyre change for michelin xm2. Rm 200 Pricey for 14" I think.. Anyways, camber is 0.5 out, unable to adjust without changing camber screw. Price quoted rm100.. Isn't bit too much for a screw?

Parents noted that original proton camber screw is better than those shops one.. True? Pls enlighten how much is it for original and normal ones..

Waliao... Luckily ran out of cash, if not slash throat. Parents quoted me about RM40 for waja's, some normal camber screw, comments, not good, makes a lot of noise on the car.

Erm, its my first change of tyres, the ori stock proton CC1 tyres lasted from 2007 till now, 34400km, went through 2 owners. So I have no regular tyre shop yet, not even service shop. Lol.

Thanks, may pay a visit there, Jalan Ipoh is not far since i'm from PJ. Had heard of him in LYN much.

EDIT: Yea, i'm aware and went to the shop which pricing is RM200... Its all around 215 in PJ area for michelin XM2, only there cheapest.

Its very difficult to get yokohama tyres here for my size. Searched through PJ dy... Wonder how's Yokohama doing...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: May 22 2012, 01:14 AM

Oh. Thanks bro.

Just wonder, our stock setup does not permit changes in camber right? Which means camber screw from Proton is originally just fixed...

Just wonder can we adjust other stuffs instead of camber? Or is it something must have gone very wrong (Parts failed)?

I dunno whether your iswara/saga is saloon / aeroback...

Here is pic of aeroback version, should be similar as Proton just used in on nearly all their sagas/iswaras. You can remove the wire circled on your boot lid "latch". Once removed, the door light should never on again when you open the boot. Then you can isolate the boot sensor and troubleshoot see whether other door sensors are giving you problem or not.

Btw, if removed, alarm won't sound if thief very free enter from your boot yea... Lol.

The problem might lie on insufficient grounding on the rear aeroback boot lid itself. The brake light shares grounding with your number plate light and demister inside a relatively thin ground wire. The ground wire probably runs from car chassis, the aeroback lid metal is somehow not grounded.

Btw, our RM25k/27k LMST seemed to have quite large gap between the chassis and the boot lid glass... Older iswara's have rubber beside glass...

So I turned manufacturer's cost saving scheme:


into an advantage:


Auxiliary brake alert light activated only when lights are on... Daylight see nothing for cheapo LEDs that I used...

Nice goodies collection bro..

Bro, you remove steering everytime you leave your car? There's such devices in market?
No fuel pump bro, our fuel pump using latest vacuum technology.. Haha
But I had an idea of installing some switches on few wires of our carburetor..
So once the switch is off, the starter still cranks but the engine just wont run..

Even if thieves rob ur car while enginee on, turn off that switch when you leave the car with engine on, the carburetor will die off slowly without warning, then confirm won't start unless they found the hidden switch.. While the car will he drivable in less than 10m.. Troll them and u better get help quick as they'll definitely find back you..

I had not managed to get the switch up yet. Since it's wire is thin, I suggest there'll be not much current passing through. A simple switch to hidden dash area will do. According to sifu the wire is for the carburetor. When I was pulling my vacuum tube for vacuum meter, disconnected that for easier access. Did not connect afterwards. Car starter crank like 10sec but engine just doesn't run!

Even better than our stock starter cut off, cause nowadays they used alarm diagnostic device already enough to gaotim those expensive car alarms, our stock alarm?

So this hidden switch will enable the thief pass through everything except driving away. He'll be deadly trolled when the car cranks but no response from engine.. For towing, i'm still trying to figure out how to use shock sensor incorporated into our stock alarm

Yeap, its in the newspapers where expensive cars are stolen with a simple tool of alarm diagnostic device, available at car accessories/alarm specialists shop. Cost a bomb for that but stealing one high-end car would probably worth more than the device already.

Old school starter cut off switch is possible on our LMST. Just dunno which wire to tap from alarm box. But i would prefer the carburettor way as its more unsuspecting to thief. (Trolling also)

I would try wire up and see whether it works. I'll post a proper step by step tutorial once done and tested for few weeks.

EDIT: Bro, do update on effect of 3bond on your fc. Very interested... My car fc dropped from 16km/L to 11km/L on highway... Probably need some med for car..
If not mistaken no cat con for carburettor cars... If got probably poisoned very fast right?

Sifus come in...

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Jun 15 2012, 09:40 AM

Thought our chassis is too weak until front strut bar won't affect much?
Btw, does rear ARB makes our absorber kong faster?

How's the effect of side bar? I'm planning for that first though... Will it hit when pass bump like 20km/h?

Meaning lets say I jack up the front of my car, I had just sent my side bar to heaven? So is there any other way to prevent it from bent but still jack my car? (tyre change or whatever)

Stock spring and abs ok? I'm really planning that for my first bar. Most expensive one... Pocket ar...

Good job and share bro!

Wira?
You'll need to remove the gold frame around your AC and player. If I still remember, 2 screws below the middle bar (On top of player, below the AC panel). Take out ashtray, on top part should be another 2 screws. Then probably you can pull out the gold panel already. After that, just remove screws from the bracket around the player.

Disclaimer: From my recall of 5 years ago punya memories. If after remove screws still cant pull out, better opt for any acc shop.

This post has been edited by cyanboy: Jul 2 2012, 06:55 AM

Sifus,
Need some help here.
Any idea on removing the lmst rear bumper?
My reverse sensor had poked right into the bumper, need advice to pull it out, if not I'll just remove the bumper to gaotim..

Just realised there were so many screws and even metal behind the bumper... More solid then expected, but now my reverse sensor is between them..

From what I see when i'm below the rear, there's a steel plate thingy that's behind the bumper. And my hand can't just slip into the gap between the steel plate and bumper. Do I have to remove the steel plate thingy (Looks like can't be removed)..Perhaps i'll just snap a pic later...

I'm on LMST Merdeka promo RM27k.
Here's the pic of sensor eye: (Back of sensor eye is already chassis I assume? It has the anti-karat paste on it)



The view from the exhaust, basically going below the bumper, that's what I saw. Metal chassis, bumper, and a slice of metal in between them:



Any ideas?
He's right, I just had a tail spin this week on a narrow bridge, stock tyre about 30% thread above tyre change indicator. Luckily it's 4am in morning though. If not probably won't be posting this already.

No rain but damped roads, no water puddle. It just happened. Careful man...

(Not sure but passed by a stopping tow car in sight less than 5m, hoped that i'm not set up, i quickly flew as my car is still driveable)

Airplane sound, what I have experienced with my stock radio is with the RCA cables connected, make sure the cables are not touching any part of the chassis or between themselves. (Mine was dangling there, now i tape it already) Unless if connect amp then otherwise.

My situation is higher rev will result a 747 landing nearer on my tweeters, no rev then unnoticable.