hi,

i am using myvi 1st model..

what to know where is the cheapest tyre shop? (selangor/kl)

and what is the best size for rim size 15' ?

fyi, i already change spring to sport spring GAB.

tq

To test 0-100 is just like manual, ull need to tarik the rpm meter untill the redline only then u shift up, or sometimes when u started to feel less pulling force from the engine, and then u shift up... Do that in every gear untill u reach 100km/h... I dunno about auto, but manual ull get to 100 in early 3rd gear if im not mistaken...

Eg, start with 2(ur car will still start from 1st gear actually, but it will change gear after that without ur input), and then slam the accelerator hard until reach almost redline(remember not to hit the rev limiter, it will hurt ur 0-100 drag alot), n then change the overide stalk to 3rd and foot still hard on the accelerator continue all the wat till u reach ur desired speed... If u dont do manual overide, i think the gearbox will automaticly change the gear around 6k rpm only i guess(sister's old suzuki sport is like that, when manual overide only then can the engine bang the limiter)...

But, i think even in auto, the way to get the best sprint to 100 is still to actually start in neutral and then keep the engine rpm around 4-5k rpm n then slot into D, get the car moving n quickly overide to 2 n repeat the above method... Just same like manual, keep rmp around 4.5, drop the clutch like hell, there will be wheelspin, but only just... So need to guess the optimum engine speed to compromise between wheelspin and get away speed... This method is very hard on the gearbox... This is what we called full bore gateway... If manual, dont let the clutch go slowly, as it will slipppp aloooot n ul smell the clutch burning .. But, if too high engine speed n u drop the clutch, can also break the clutch, and ur car screaming like hell but no go... Ned to replace with new clutch then

To aid the acceleration, just put on really gripy tires up front,.. My own exp full bore acceleration before and after tyre change....

B4 change, oem tires --> Drop clutch at 4.5k, wheelspin like crazy until engine reach 6k almost redline, change into 2, still have wheelspin... Grip is not there, eventually clock 0-100 around low 10sec...

After change to potenzas ---> Drop clutch at 4.5k, wheelspin also, but not that long and the car moves forward really fast which means alot more grip though with wheelspin.. Change into second, wheelspin like half a second only...

But, after tyre change, can tell full bore acceleration when change into second, the clutch can't grip that fast, will have a bit slip before fully grip... Final figure...?? 9second flat average, n got 8.2 once

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Added on November 24, 2011, 7:15 amSimply change to bigger piping wont really helps increase performance n hp figure and can even lead to power loss, becus all exhaust system also need some amount of back preasure in the exhaust system to perform.. But, basicly, the higher hp figure ur engine is pumping, the bigger ur exhaust diameter it can be, but also different kind of exhaust diameter also change ur engine's characteristics... Eg top end monster with low down even ur grandpa sunny 120y can cucuk u... Or crazy low end torque with very little top end or out of breath at around 5k rpm(lazy engine)...

I think for original engine with only minor mod (intake, full exhaust, plugs etc) , 1.6" diameter is optimum with myvi's engine... But, if BOT, maybe can go until 2" or a bit more...

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Added on November 24, 2011, 7:19 amBro, D means the gearbox will automaticly change gear for u... It's the gearboz ecu which will determine which gear u should be in based on the throtle opening, engine load, engine speed etc etc... The gearbox will still go from 1 untill 4th, but u wont notice but can see the gear indicator(the new model) changing figures as per what the gearbox is doing.. But, even no indicator, still can rasa ur car slow abit n then accelerate again... N also look at the rpm meter, it will drop by quite a margin when change gear

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Added on November 24, 2011, 7:28 amBro, look around at klang and also rawang... But, klang so many people are going there, but if u dont mind waiting or secondrate customer service, then try klang... Ive changed mine at rawang...

U r already on 15" or u are going to trade ur oem and go with 15" set...?? If trade in oem and go to 15", buy all at one shop can get crazy discount

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 24 2011, 07:28 AM

if anyone wanna sell off your myvi original CD player (USB & bluetooth version) with the cover; please do PM me

bro...in normal driving..when u put into D..the gear change itself....from 1 to 2 to 3 and to 4...
L-2-D and OD Off...is for u to change manually...coz some drivers like me like to have full control on the gear shift...
bt...from what i heard lar......if u change the gear manually in a consistent manner..it will create a lot of damage to the gear box....
and fixing the myvi gear box is not cheap though....

for manual..its ok to drag to redline only change gear..
provided u need to use high grade gear oil..then it help to smoothen the gear transition...

if u are driving manual and u wan to have faster gear change..
there is 1 thing called short shifter i think..i heard from the nissan sentra gang before...

too bad.. i sold mine quite some time ago for rm300 only..

@ikiey: wow bro thank you so much for the explaination!
So for the sizing between 1.6 and 2.0 i would leave it to the exhaust shop,most probably i think he will ask me to take 2.0 since the price not big different and of course they want to earn thats why.

What is the standard sizing of pipe for myvi?i mean old gen.

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Added on November 24, 2011, 10:25 amHow not to void the gearbox warranty?since repair cost a lot,need to aware of it.

Kind of regret i didnt take manual,sigh...

This post has been edited by rest: Nov 24 2011, 10:25 AM

Standard is 1.5" diameter Bro.. Bro, if piping soo big, FC really bad ooo

Wow,so 1.6 just little different will it make any changes?
I already feel that my fc drop so if 2.0 really give more power i would just give up the fc.
Haha

At first i research 4-2-1 better for auto,but when i went to that shop he said what 4-1 better so i end up 4-1.

Uve changed the extractor already ker rest...?? I also tout 4-1 more suitable for auto... IMHO, 2 piping is too big lar...
Try read here ---> Exhaust system mod many sifus there, but that forum like dead already..

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 24 2011, 10:54 AM

Already changed haha cos i like very loud sound and if use s flow no more sound so just make it straight flow.
Now feel like changing ss pipe cos match with extractor and look nicer.

Waaaa... niceeee, how much it cost u...? Where did u changed it...??

i thought my pic last time can see the extractor what haha
Erm i think rm3xx something cant remember.at kweng shop lo budget.
I went alot exhaust shop all the price so expensive like rm6xx and finally found kweng the price ok for me.

Now my 1.5se from 9.0/L raise to 10.1/L and the car only run 200km, is it a good sign for me? since the FC better d.

U are referring to the trip computer or actual calculation...??

Anyone using IMP brake set?
lol.

and thanks to bro Ace & ikiey for the gearbox explanation
means I won't be playing with the gearbox ~_~
gearbox very costly to play with. lolx
and I'm just using some oem gearbox oil. haha.

IMP disc n brake pad izzit Bro..?? I used that combo in my dad's myvi se 1st gen... Solved shaking problem... But now brake pad changed to vttr

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Added on November 24, 2011, 11:17 amYeaa lar Bro.. Kweng's price damn good... Im gonna change as well.. But a bit later lar... Need to do soundproofing 1st.. Really bising lar tyre roar... Cant imagine how those extra wide n xtra aggressive thread pattern on those expensive/sports car sounded like.. But, maybe their soundproofing damn good one, so problem settled

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 24 2011, 11:18 AM

@ikiey - yea, IMP disc and pads. So does it really give your dad the solid feel of braking? seems use very long ady? chg brake pad.

Hello Welcome Feel free to register yourself according to the format provided at the 1st page so that I could update you to the owner list. Also, you could take a picture of your car and post it here. I'll update it on the 1st page too

Hello , Feel free to register yourself according to the format provided at the 1st page so that I could update you to the owner list. Also, you could take a picture of your car and post it here. I'll update it on the 1st page too

Solid as in pedal feel improve ker Bro...? Not really... Its still soft as before change to IMP, but no shaking at all after that... Braking 140-0 no problem... I know, ive tried... Do that even the rim also got hot... Hehehe... If want to have firm pedal feel, i think need to pair with steel braided hose and also dot 5.1 then it will be more firm the pedal feel... But, IMP, the red pads grips better n stronger Bro..

@ikiey - Yes! the pedal feel. I dont know why the pedal feel, very soft. No confident in high speed braking, even if emergency braking. I nid to depress the whole pedal in.
The red pads are around 550c right?
Been looking high and low for the discs and pads to have the very firm pedal feel, like my sister's viva.