How you fix? if all meter, you must have shaken the plug of the dash meter loose maybe.

That's what I mean, maybe the meter cluster socket became loose? suddenly no power, mah no movement le

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Added on July 15, 2012, 9:31 pmNego for B20VTEC with everthing for 25K?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 15 2012, 09:31 PM

Me and my friend swapping in a K engine in EG.
Doing "Plug and Pray™" harness while my friend swapping out maintainance bits in the K20a like valve cover gasket and seals.

Me stuck with my old b20b. Maybe in 5-6years time I'll swap to K series.

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Added on July 16, 2012, 1:33 pmI have the RO tag Border. Noisy like F**K.
You forgot to mention one more exhaust. Buddy Club Spec II exhaust. It's worse than Border 304.

Skunk 2 alpha a bit more muted in my opinion, but still got the distinct "praaaangg" sound.

Got cutout some more. Street racing ka?

I have 3 sets of exhaust, the border 304, the dc2 standard exhaust and the kakimoto one on my B20B.


About K series swap, most people aren't doing it yet, the only ones doing it now, even though increasing in numbers are still pioneers/early birds.

Here also B series took quite long for people to catch on due to their high entry price. Anyone remember the B16B halfcuts at 20+K long time ago?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 16 2012, 01:33 PM

cutout meaning the exhaust exit after the header before the muffler.
Arospeed makes an exhaust cutout valve that's available locally.

Me, sudah bosan dengar itu vtec bunyi. now quiet only.. huhuhuhu

The loss seems significant because of the L bend I think.
Still looks good. I still prefer peace and quiet though.

Spoon street exhaust is pretty restrictive. I have a friend with a b18c ek with it. also sluggish compared to race exhaust. It's a sacrifice for noise control

Good luck with crome. You should easily exceed that 200hp mark easily when doing it.

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Added on July 16, 2012, 4:37 pmReason why I think it's dashboard only based on what you said is because connections like fuel level, is direct to fuel tank level sender. It doesn't go anywhere else, so if you lose connection to that, it's likely the meter connector got loose.


This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 16 2012, 04:37 PM

Management first.. huhuhuhuhu

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Added on July 16, 2012, 9:10 pmAnother guy who runs VTEC killer cams. Who needs vtec? LOL
The guy's car is stripped out. Too bad in malaysia, we need air conditioning.

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Added on July 16, 2012, 9:11 pmYeah, it means shops no need to stock so many parts.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 16 2012, 09:11 PM

stripped out. lightening. he took out all interior

Over here they first screw you about A/C first, if you don't die from the heatstroke.

Get to know chris from pentagon, he owns a FD2R, but he can probably hook you up with the FN2 stuff.

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Added on July 17, 2012, 12:25 pmAnyway, carbon ram air intake, how much you expect? Gruppe M some more.

Cheaper options always is US performance options. JP parts transport expensive, and also they tend to hike up price when sell to foreigners, unlike Proton that sells cheap to foreigners but expensive to the locals.

Or go UK spec
http://www.cplracing.co.uk/browse-type.php...makeid=1&type=6

Then again. I like the stock airbox of the k series.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 17 2012, 12:25 PM

About 1.2k, but the problem is it's only available for USDM ecu's. It's stated on their FAQ on the hondata CPR.
Anyway, I'm giving up on hondata. If I am switching management, I'll probably go with AEM EMS, a bit expensive, but not so much compared to Motec systems.

Of course, if I'm spending so much on management, I should have at least some boost powah installed. lol

Currently hondata and standard distributor is enough for me.

Which reminds me that my fuel pump has never died still, and it's already a long time.
Long time ago I said I'll switch to walbro, fast forward 5 years, I'm still on the OEM pump. lol.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 17 2012, 01:02 PM

Not giving up hondata, it's just that it's a great management for hondas, but it also has it's limitations. For me, it's still the best bang for buck full management you can buy for honda since it's make specific. No need to rewire the car, and the honda CEL codes work!. And the cable to tune? RM5, available at any computer shops near you. Software forgot where you misplace? Go find mamak internet and download from hondata direct.

You can't do that with PowerFC, Crome, etc. All sold seperately at xxx price.

While for AEM, it's more universal, so for future proofing, as long as sensors are 5V, you can put in any sensor regardless if it comes from ford, toyota, honda, etc.

Can convert to from MAF to MAP or MAP to MAF

Of course, unless you DIY, it's not really a good choice, you practically have to rewire your car at the ECU harness.

The AEM EMS not 5 digit AFAIK. 3-4K thereabouts incl. shipping and tax, wideband included, installation not included.
http://bisimoto.com/store/index.php?main_p...products_id=667

USD899, where got 5 digit? Of course, this is old series one ECU, but still supports 10 injector, 5 ignition outputs already, enough for coil on plug and staged injection.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine-manag...ment-system-90/
Top of the line model, about 7-9K, but include everything installation and stuff, probably 10K+.

If want to run coil on plug, no need top of the line, just EMS-4 or series 2 PNP system.
Already looked at EMS-4 at ken's racing shop. But for now, need cams first.

But looking at the spec sheet of the series 2 EMS, feel like want, but I doubt I'll use most of the features available in the series 2 EMS.

The plan to go AEM EMS is still a faraway goal.

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Added on July 17, 2012, 3:13 pmHere's another thing on my want list, but will never buy. Unless somehow got suddenly F**King rich.
http://www.quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qbe34g-0
http://www.team4piston.com/OutlawB16.html

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 17 2012, 03:16 PM

Everco has the best welder around. His welding is like OEM/Japanese Aftermarket welding.
If you already got the test pipe, any shop can do it I think.

I'm also going to run a 2.5" test pipe. currently still on 2.25, even with my 2.7" exhaust.

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Added on July 17, 2012, 5:48 pmCivic body is too big lol. Jazz is good and cute. Personally not sporty enough, but some people say it is. Different tastes I guess

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 17 2012, 05:48 PM

Where you buy? I'm looking for a ready made 2.5" one. the one that can couple with a 2.5" exhaust header donut.

Cool, please do

It's probably a 2.7inch one. Apparently Japanese don't have 2.5" piping. My exhaust from kakimoto also from japan using 2.7" tubing...

Great! and Thanks, I'm going to go check it out next week.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 18 2012, 01:32 AM

2.5 is malaysian/american size. I thought got japanese making de-cat pipe bigger than 2.25.

Guess it's custom route for me.

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Added on July 18, 2012, 11:42 pmPhoto spam incoming!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/obov0ypk2jx4ynw/C...14-19-42-52.jpg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ykvi499jv92y8jw/DSC_0112.jpg

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 18 2012, 11:43 PM

Price?

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Added on July 20, 2012, 1:33 amYours, if standard must use the japanese standard 2.25 sizing. I used to run 2.25 sizing as well, they usually make the pipe smaller at the cat, since japanese use 2" inlet cats.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 20 2012, 01:46 AM

Price is agreeable. how about the length? I hope it's not the adjustable type. had problem with leaks in the past.
Since it's used, nego cheaper? lol

Opps, talked to my friend about it. Cannot, since K20's decat is bent, so I cannot bolt in direct. Sorry.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 20 2012, 01:05 PM

Need more details bro. Like what check light code is it.

Civic ES R18? or the FD1?



Read the Diagnostic Trouble Codes Without an OBD2 Code Reader
#
Step 1

Locate the 16-pin data link connector (DLC). Connect the jump wire to terminals 4 and 9 of the connector. Turn the key to the "On" position without starting the engine.
#
Step 2

Watch the "Check Engine" light. This light will begin to flash in specific patterns to indicate a 1- or 2-digit Diagnostic Trouble Code. The flashes will be long for the first digit, short for the second digit and blank if the digit is 0.
#
Step 3

Record all the codes given. The "Check Engine" light will display the codes in sequence and then keep repeating them in order. Refer to your repair manual to check for the meaning of the codes.

*make sure you get the correct pins, if you connect the 12V pin on the DLC, you can fry your ECU. I included pictures because you might not know the pinout numbering.
*You have been warned.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 22 2012, 12:05 PM