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 HONDA CIVIC Club V11, My VTEC goes BWAAAAAHH!!!!

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sadako-chan
post Jul 8 2012, 04:25 AM

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QUOTE(apihblind @ Jul 7 2012, 02:07 PM)
currently track spec only,dunno how much u have to spend to make it otr againĀ  sweat.gif
*
Not expensive I think. Just need A/C and Power Steering only mah... assuming the wires isn't chopped for motec/other aftermarket ecu. huhuhu


Added on July 8, 2012, 4:38 am
QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 8 2012, 03:30 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

28K for an EF? that's insane, unless it's in mint condition.
Before doing stuff like this, I feel that I should mention what happened when I took out my B16A that was swapped 8-9 years ago. The rubbers and hoses were all expired, just waiting for time to fail. Total cost of ALL new hoses and seals 1K+. (prolly cheaper if got knockoffs, but I'm not sure they exist.)

When buying a second hand car, if the owner asking this kind of price, ask him for service records. If want to sell at such a price, the f**king owner better provide detailed service records, and receipt of all his repairs. If he cannot furnish such things, then I suggest better stay away. Some of the owners want to let go their cars at high prices, but neglect to provide proof of repair/parts purchase. doh.gif

My friend sold his EG hatchback for 40K, and even that is because it has tons of rare parts, like TE37 Limited, Spoon Calipers, Mugen & Spoon bits (not replica), and all the parts are bought new.
(which is why documentation is important, if seller talk, you think can trust 100%?)

Some of these fellas using replicas/kedai potong parts on their cars and trying to sell their cars at prices of 'premium' cars. doh.gif . Lucky for them, there's always idiots who buy these cars, then find out that the car wasn't worth that much, or on the verge of breaking down.

Want to sell at "high-class" prices, but car never maintained at "high-class" level.

Since you mention you're still a student, be wary of minor maintainance, who can say that after you buy, drive it around a few weeks, a coolant hose fails, you overheat your engine, and suddenly hard up for money to repair.

Caveat Emptor.

Saw the ad you included, that looks like DC2R passenger side mount. Not clear in the picture, but if it's hard mounts, prepare for shaking dashboard and numb buttocks. Huhuhuhu

From the picture, I think 28K is overpriced for it. The car has damn near zero rare parts, and the fact that it has ANY replica parts at all, I would automatically stay away from it, because if the owner doesn't love the car enough to use original parts, I wonder what kind of motor oil and maintenance he put in the car. Actually never mind, I think I already know.


This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 8 2012, 04:51 AM
sadako-chan
post Jul 9 2012, 02:17 AM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 8 2012, 03:04 PM)
Alright so from your saying, should i just wait for another EF then? Yea i don't think he keeps any service records and all...

And from you say you think you already know what kind of maintenance and motor oil he uses in his car, what do you mean by that? O:
*
Just means that the maintainance and motor oil probably 'cincai' already.
For 28K, keep looking for a more pristine EF. It's out there somewhere.
sadako-chan
post Jul 9 2012, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 9 2012, 02:29 AM)
Owh on top of that, my budget is around 20-24k... :/

However that owner is willing to release for 26k. Not worth right for the spec he has for the car? Only downside is the body rust. :/ surface rust to be specific. And also a rust hole in the boot area. Owh well...
*
if your budget is around there, look for 20k price efs, put aside that 4k for repairs. Usually no matter how pristine, will have some minor repairs to do. Worse case scenario where after buying, gearbox synchros mampos. Not to mentions other maintainance when u start driving it around.
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 12:51 AM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 9 2012, 12:54 PM)
crome is a basically a software to make a custom chip...but the features are pretty good... almost as good as hondata. some even say that once u got crome theres no need for hondata... though i do agree to a certain extent and plan on getting crome very soon... i still have full intentions of going hondata later on....crome is just a temporary solution to my current lack of tuning..and my engine is in desperate need of tuning...especially ignition tuning

http://www.tunewithcrome.com/home.html
Have a friend using crome, it's essentially like chipping your ecu, except the chip has your "custom tune" map inside.

QUOTE
some Y1 and S1 have LSDs in them...but yeah... 4.4FD to me is the best all rounder. N3E is basically the B18C-R gearbox with a 4.785 final drive...id still prefer the 4.4 though...had a friend with B18C-R and 4.7fd... said ratios were too close..he still prefers the 4.4...n i gotta agree with him... best ratio for all...
Depends on how high you can rev your engine actually. I tried 9K rev limit B18c and 8k rev limit b18C. If you don't have 9K rpm, 4.7 will make gears feel short. In the case of B20B, 4.4 feels short for daily driving lol. I shift from 1-5 from traffic light at 1-3K rpm, takes me all of 10 secs. 2 secs per gear (light throttle, slow normal driving la)

QUOTE
plonking in ur own B18C-R...dont really need the gearbox if ur already on a B-series VTEC....basically just replace the old engine with the B18C-R and use back everything else including the gearbox....
one thing to take note.. gearbox transplants into EFs isnt that direct... EFs are built for clutch cable.. and everything after is clutch pump...Y1 and S1 bolt in directly.. YS1 requires some knocking to the chassis to make abit of space to fit the bigger gearbox housing. every other gearbox is clutch pump.. which means ull need to get a conversion kit.. either from cable to pump...or pump to cable..
For me, better he stick with non-hydraulic G/box, unless he can buy/modify in hydraulic gearbox since that costs $$$

QUOTE
anyway... i got fake parts too in my car... but im super anal when it comes to maintenance.. tongue.gif
i also dont keep service records...hahahhahaha
But you also not selling your car. You'd be surprise how people want to let go their of car tend to ignore maintainance, and concentrate on getting it spray painted so it looks good only.


Added on July 10, 2012, 12:53 am
QUOTE(orang90 @ Jul 10 2012, 12:46 AM)
foung this

user posted image

rm4k wiring n ecu kecuali gearbox saja xda. k24a odysey
*
Swap into old accord would be fun. But the g/box also not cheap I think. sweat.gif


Added on July 10, 2012, 12:56 am
QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 10 2012, 12:38 AM)
Owh so are those problems common? Hmmm his chassis looks good right? Yeap only thing left is an EF9 bumper and respray the hood. Hmmmm alright i will go view the car then. smile.gif ermmm my plans are to get a B16B block, S4C tranny, with ORC clutch and also the clutch pump with the assembly. Hmmm....
Rims im planning to get my friend's set of meisters S1 16x7. smile.gif calculated cost for the block, gb and clutch is about 6.5k for hardware. Installation and everything should be about 1.5k... I think la. Hahahah.

Any advice on this take? Lolllll...
Owh ya definitely will get rid of the jasma short shifter tongue.gif And also about the J's racing spoiler, does it look good on EFs?
*
Oh ORC clutch. I'm not a fan of racing clutches for daily driving. I'm using Exedy Stage 1 organic also damn leceh already.
Meisters S1 is nice. Those thick lips are something I can only dream about since I did the five lug conversion to EK9. Cannot fit anything below +42 offset for my front end.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 12:57 AM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 01:49 AM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 10 2012, 01:32 AM)
Ok wait, so lets say i put in a hydro tranny, a mastar pump, slave pump and clutch pedal assembly is needed right? Is it alot more complicated than this? Please advice...
*
How would you modify the pedal to run a hydro is probably the biggest question
Can get ideas from this one, but probably issues you'd face is clearances in the car. (read honda-tech thread)
http://www.xenocron.com/sonem-ef-boltin-hy...sion-p-441.html
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2472947
read page 1 & 2.

The one at xenocron is the finished product, as you can see, they cut off the part where got clearance problem mentioned in the honda-tech forum.

EF under dash is pretty cramped AFAIK, so good luck with trying it out.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 04:24 AM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 12:20 PM)
as for the gearbox..no need to get the clutch pump assembly... u can get a clutch pump gearbox and convert it to cable...hasport has a kit for it for about RM1xx if not mistaken...and better to stick to cable oso... coz ive heard clutch pumps can leak if u use with clutches like ORC or OS...but clutch cable, ur leg will be suffering la laugh.gif
clutch pump leakage is normal lah, usually the seals koyak, but if new, no problem. I also would recommend getting braided clutch lines simply because its cheap, lol. I'm running Goodrich ones, if forgot how much I bought it for when new, but it was cheap.

QUOTE
did u manage to get any feedback from ur friend about the crome? who did his tuning?
I even drove back the car from KL with my friend, quite good actually. Tuning was done by Ah Loo, at Siong VTEC's old shop place. Stroked B16B. Got knocking at low end sometimes, but I guess that one is due to temp difference, since tuned during rainy season, so when hot, sometimes got knocking, but only at low end.
Heard Avantech last time also had Crome tuning, dunno now still got or not.

QUOTE
my friends B18C-R was stock with the 4.7fd... n yeah... i gotta agree with the B20 n 4.4... even now when cruising on highways....when im at fifth gear i feel like im still in 3rd... every now n then i put the gear to neutral n push it back to fifth....just to be sure laugh.gif
Stock with 4.7 is good enough what, just need to set rpm to 9.5K, but only use that max limit for 1st and 2nd.

QUOTE

nowadays, im on stock type r clutch...bang for buck n comfy hahahahha....getting too old liao....but i do plan on getting a clutch with more bite... coz that minor "slip" when shifting at redline abit tak syiok la...i miss that "lompat" feeling when shifting at redline... heheheh
*
Agree, type R clutch still the best for daily driving.
If your clutch slips at high rpm, I'm guessing you didn't resurface the flywheel when putting in new clutch. Also, I had that problem once too, turns out the pressure spring on the clutch cover already gone case, since I bought the clutch second hand, but with the new clutch pads.
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 10 2012, 01:44 PM)
alright lets say i would love to use a clutch pumped gb, what do i need to do? Don't i just need to get the gb, pump, slave pump, and a set of pedals from DC2 or something? I don't really understand how it works tho. read a few forum posts on honda-tech. Don't quite understand... what does the conversion kit do? i've seen conversion kits from cable to pump? but lets say i bought a hydro tranny, why do i still need the conversion kit? Please guide me. thankss.
Yes, the conversion kit is to convert your original EF clutch pedal's clutch cable hook, to pull the clutch pump.
Can custom rather than buy the kit, so you can find a fabricator to mock one up for you. The kit is just a piece of steel, with a O washer to weld on your ori pedal so it can push the clutch pump, without it coming of, since the ori clutch pedal is a J hook.
For 170USD, better make yourself at some fabrication shop. Don't think it'll hit RM500. just show them the picture, and they'll get it.

The other one is hasport, it retains the cable, but has a linkage to push the hydraulic pump on the gearbox.

QUOTE
Getting the clutch pumped gb and convert it into cable, is there any disadvantage to this besides having a heavier clutch feel? But i myself would prefer the clutch pump idea than the cable idea... hmmm

See previous reply, it's already stated that cable drive clutch has a softer feel since the cable can streeeeeetch.

QUOTE
And also i've checked the pricing for a B16B block, around 1.6k, S4C with spoon lsd 2.2k, with normal lsd at other shop selling 2.3k. with racing lsd selling for 2.8k. lol S80 im not really sure about the pricing but for the J4D ones should be around 3k? is it? or about the same as S4C gbs?
*
Eh? S4C more expensive than S80? I guess people here dunno about the double cone syncros in the S4C. Dunno if there were S80s with double cone synchros though. Perhaps they exist, but not sure.

Spoon LSD? That's a clutch type LSD, VERY NICE when the clutch packs are still okay, DAMN LOUSY when it's worn out. My friend once had one, at first nice, but after a while, bleh, feel like open diff.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:36 PM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 02:39 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 02:36 PM)
yeah thought about the clutch hoses... i bought a brand new Russell clutch hose from a friend for about RM180....but unfortunately the heads didnt fit... so had to return it...my mech said he can do a custom braided hose....a long one where hell get rid of the metal tubes so the hose can be routed and tucked nicely... about RM120 iirc.

Avantech still does Crome.. if ur OBD1 has been re-chipped itll cost RM550 with 1 hour on the dyno... if ECU has never been chipped add 100 to do the base. as for Ah Loo... heard this name before... even have a friend with the name Ah Loo...but dunno if he does tuning or not..hahahha

my clutch came with the car when i bought it... right now couldnt be bothered much with it since i rarely redline these days.....coz im planning on getting a better clutch that comes with flywheel....like the ORC or Exedy Hyper Single......
*
Just buy new from Chris at Pentagon, that's where I bought mine. I bought mine long long time ago, so dunno the price now.

For the price, quite good actually, I think for normal people, rather than go piggyback, might as well go chrome, since it's like hondata s100.

Wah, all of you like racing clutches eh? I don't really like them due to their sudden bite.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:40 PM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 02:40 PM)
if i ever buy anything from Chris...itll probably be K-Tuned stuff laugh.gif

but naah...id rather get custom... dun wanna end up like the Russell, where the ends didnt fit..

besides...Pentagon is so far away from Shah Alam...n my mechanic is in Shah Alam hahahahhaha
*
Heh, I already ordered a few bits from him. Fuel filter to convert my fuel system to full AN, and K conversion kit for my friend. All from K-tuned.


Added on July 10, 2012, 2:44 pm
QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 02:36 PM)

yeah....thats the problem with clutch type... they wear out... quite fast too...

id rather just get the type r helical lsd honestly...
*
Yep, torsen the best, but have to really practice left foot braking when you lift up one front wheel though.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:44 PM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 02:44 PM)
the conversion kit is from K-Tuned? the one with the wire harness, shifter box etc etc??

and have u checked the price on the K-Tuned B/D series shifter?? been interested in that or the FLP shifter for quite awhile now
*
B/D series shifter no stock, chris asked me if worth to bring in. I said no, lol, because the type R's 20-25mm throw is short enough. Unless you want to the shifter stick really high like those track cars, since can adjust to maintain short throw after lengthening. Price should be about RM500 or so.

Yeah, the stage one conversion kit. He's anal about the wiring, so instead of going custom, he's buying a complete dash harness. No confirmation if need to lengthen wires for RHD, so consider guinea pig la.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:48 PM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 02:51 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 02:48 PM)
i thought its in already? RM500 is not bad.. n yeah i want my gear high while maintaining short throws...im currently on dc2-r shifter with custom circuit-hero-like 4" extender... cant imagine going back to a short stick shifter.

n if u think my current or the K-Tuned shifter is high...u should check out the FLP shifter...hahahahha
n i iz envy ur friend... going into an EG? where is he getting his swap done?
*
Well, I was referring to FLP shifter. First time encounter these kinds of shifter was from C-speed. C-speed looks nice, but the bottom broke on a friend's ride. Had to fabricate replacement from a machine shop. Now up and running again.

About the billet K tuned shifter, I was at chris's place 2-3 weeks ago. no stock then.

Yes, it's going into an EG hatch. His swap is DIY at his own garage. I'm going to be helping him out with it. It is going to be SO FUN, right now I'm bored to wait for the weekend to come.

Going to get it running first, then decide if we need traction bars as a permanent addition.

My other friend with EK kena racun already, now trying to sell of his 2.1L b20b engine so he can put a K in.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 02:56 PM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 03:16 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 02:58 PM)
wait wait...im confused.. i was asking about K-Tuned B/D shifter..ie this one..

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


not the billet shifter box for K-series...

and FLP shifter i meant this one

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


which one u meant about the RM500? and which one did u say not worth to bring in?
*
Oh, sorry then I thought you meant FLP shifters being adjustable types.
Yeah, the RM500 is the billet adjustable shifter. There's no FLP shifters at chris's place. I suggest contacting k-tuned to find out the max height before you decide though, I'm not sure how high it can go. The C-speed one is near the ac vents on the EK, so it's quite high. I don't think the K-tuned can go that high, but I haven't seen the actual product to be sure.


Added on July 10, 2012, 3:32 pm
QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 10 2012, 03:02 PM)
Hahahaha you mean the S80 are more expensive than the S4C is it? Hmmmmm so helical lsd is better? But why is there normal and racing LSD? Ermmm owh double synchros... Nice...
Haha.. nolah, I mean S4C usually more expensive or same price with S80 from what I've seen, but really not sure of the price now. I haven't bought any used gearbox in a long time.

Helical LSD is better in terms of free maintainance.

I drove a few cars with clutch LSD. OS Giken Superlock LSD, Spoon LSD, Kaaz. Seriously clutch LSD have that feel to it. They simply "pull" the car into the corners better, regardless of traction on either side. With torsen, you lift one front wheel up, instant understeer. shocking.gif Talking with some track kakis, they say can compensate with left foot braking to lock that free wheel in the air, but I've never successfully done it.

I almost kena racun if it were not for me unwilling to spend 2.5-4K on LSD.

Racing and Normal LSD? I only know of 3 types. Helical, Clutch and Viscous
Not sure, but maybe the racing has higher slip threshold than normal LSD. For helicals, maybe more gears in the LSD to accommodate more torque?

Just got quotation for OEM EG9 Lower control arms. RM480 per piece. Looks like I'm going poly or sphericals. Dafuq with that OEM price.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 04:04 PM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 10 2012, 04:17 PM)
Owh i see i see... Hahaha bro the S4C are generally better than the S80 lah you mean? And the S4C only comes with helical LSD standard right? And only the Type R uses the S4C gb right?

Owh wow, learn something new about the left foot braking... Owh clutch LSDs are better in terms of performance lah? And what do you mean by with torsen, it will cause instant understeer? yawn.gif

And youre driving an EG9 is it? smile.gif

Owh btw about the clutch cable to hydro thingy. I asked my dad, he told me before that his satria he uses cable clutch, he then converted it into clutch pump. He said its fairly okay to do the conversion but not to say easy la. Was wondering if the honda will be similar to the satria's conversion... yawn.gif
*
Well s80 also got helicals, even y21 got helical for certain models.
Hell, i didn't know about left foot braking used to lock helicals till recently. With torsen/helical, yeah, instant understeer. Won't happen unless you go in a corner too fast though. First time scared myself shitless, haha

About the clutch, just do the bracket lo. American peeps do all the research already. U just have to read only.

Yeah, its a bastardized eh2. The only part thats eh2 is the chassis tho. Its my daily driver. I put in quite a lot of use in it and never gave me problems. Only put in the b20b when my other engine started consuming oil.


Added on July 10, 2012, 4:56 pm
QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 04:21 PM)
wats wrong with ur LCAs? if its just bushing no need to change the whole arm mah
*
Jdm style arms. My friend says jacking out the bush can warp the arms. At that price, i'd rather add a few hundred more and get F7s

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 04:56 PM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 05:40 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 05:10 PM)
gotta agree... 480 per piece is ridiculous... F7 is about RM1.4k thereabouts

as for jacking out the bush... if done properly its ok la...some DIYers actually burn the old bush out of the arms. but a proper bench press can get the bushes out easily... if ur using stock arms, then ull have hell of alot of choices... unlike me.. gotta go for custom bushings...
*
dunno yet. I am going to custom fabricate catch can with full AN fittings and a custom bend intake pipe. Depending on how much that costs, its either poly bushes or F7s lcas.

Use skunk2 lca la. I ordered for my friend last year the bushes. 150 for a set of lower arms incl. Postage

i think price was usd10 for two halves.

If s2 did the eyelet type lca, i would have bought long time ago.


Added on July 10, 2012, 5:52 pmI'm considering bringing in a bunch of those bushes, but the v2 bushes are lasting. I ordered 20 the first time, all sold out. Nobody inquiring so i didn't order anymore

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 10 2012, 05:52 PM
sadako-chan
post Jul 10 2012, 06:45 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 10 2012, 06:19 PM)
im already on Blox LCA.. n of course.. their bushings koyak... got them replaced with custom Soft PU bushes.. hell of alot better actually....been a year + and still holding strong even after track day.

by right... the bushes for S2 are lifetime warranty...if not mistaken if u contact them, theyll send u a new set FOC or so i was told.

personally, the only LCA brands i would go for would be hardrace, s2, f7 and bwr.. dun care that bwr is a copy of f7..but their bushings are decent and also lifetime warranty..hahaha
*
Nope, not lifetime. I contacted them about it. But all those brands except F7 no eyelet suspension model. All for usdm fork bracket type only. cry.gif
sadako-chan
post Jul 11 2012, 12:11 AM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 10 2012, 10:29 PM)

Test drove it, clutch feels like super single, bites hard. LOL cant drive like how i normally drive by slowly releasing the clutch and balance the throttle. Lol.

Yeap i saw that red EF too! But no reply from owner...
*
Slowly releasing clutch and balance the throttle? On a racing clutch?
Nice EFs are getting rarer, most of the buyers buy from other owner then unwilling to repair. All became worse, then they want to sell back and get back their capital.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 11 2012, 12:13 AM
sadako-chan
post Jul 11 2012, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 10 2012, 10:56 PM)
So if its horizontal, is there any disadvantage?
*
Bonnet touch valve cover?
sadako-chan
post Jul 11 2012, 12:24 AM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 11 2012, 12:20 AM)
Im trying to say i couldnt do that on a racing clutch...
Well, I can, but the clutch will BURN. whistling.gif

Even my exedy organic can get that clutch burning smell, esp reversing out of my friend's house slope where it's slippery. sweat.gif
sadako-chan
post Jul 11 2012, 08:10 AM

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QUOTE(Mediocre2 @ Jul 11 2012, 12:44 AM)
Hahahahaa, now gonna revvvvv abit only can move. Poser sial. tongue.gif
*
Lol. If i do that with my b20, wheelspin sial
sadako-chan
post Jul 11 2012, 10:51 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jul 11 2012, 09:14 PM)
speedworks mahal la... i kinda need a custom job.. coz of my intake setup... speedworks one usually whole kit with the K&N and rampipe etc
*
It wpuld be interesting to note that i datalogged intake air temperature (IAT) on my hondata before. At high speeds, having or not having a heat shield is unimportant. If ambient temp is high, thats the lowest it will go. Its primarily for slow speeds or cars with full diffuser at bottom of chassis. If open like our eg. No difference.

I think length more important. Thats why i'm doing custom length for mine. 22" according to maf sensor testing (own method)

if still want, try velocity fabrication at sunway. They make anything

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 11 2012, 10:53 PM

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