Restrictive exhaust cause knocking/pinging? No, never hear before, but I once got a metallic sound like pinging when accelerating, thought it was knocking/pinging.. turns out it was my exhaust touching a part of the body when vibrating due to poor fitment of exhaust.

Could be knock, since for older hondas, usually has built in knock sensor for its cars, so it will automatically retard when knocking or pinging, but not all models have it. Dunno if malaysian version have it or not.

As for checking. My one was easy, just rev it while parked, and if got the sound, it's likely the exhaust rattling. Then it is a matter of locating the sound.

If you want to test fit, better go to smaller shops where they have stock of dc5 exhaust, then you can test fit all you like. Of course, their price is sometimes also higher, but I find it's worth it if they let you test-install at their place.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 31 2012, 11:03 AM

Nice I am still on the HKS mushroom. Thinking about buying the K&N with BPI velocity stack from chris as well, but I have other mods to do ATM.

My camber kit bush one spoilt due to the lower arms bush problem.

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Added on August 2, 2012, 2:09 pmBiasalah, I don't even bother with paint anymore lol.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 2 2012, 02:09 PM

Chris got second hand 3" one, but he selling along with filter since it's used. The old version. The new one he brought in is 3.5" all. Should be cheap I think for the second hand one.

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Added on August 3, 2012, 2:29 amI know datfeel bro

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 3 2012, 02:29 AM

Almost there, but hood clearance issues abound. Apparently the newer hasport mount makes the engine sit higher, so got problem with closing the hood. @Madman, The hood have to cut cut cut la... you still think can put in your car?

Front hood la. P/steering area, and maybe throttle part when change to RBC intake

Brian@hasport said better engine higher. I guess this all mat salleh fault for gila lowering. Now sump sit same level with underchassis. For egk1 mount.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 3 2012, 10:17 PM

Higher because the mat salleh will lower the car to get that low CG, so oil pan better sit higher, on the current EG, ground clearance of pan is more than 6 inches. (about 17cm or so, means 7 inches?) compared to the early hasport mounts at 4.5 inches from ground. This all with 195/55R15 set at two finger fap at fender.

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Added on August 4, 2012, 2:43 amThere is a problem, it's called lowering costs without passing the cost savings to the consumer. Then again, malaysians are the type to pay inflated prices for cars, then lament high living costs.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 4 2012, 02:43 AM

No gap between tire and fender is pretty low if you run 195/55R15. I tried that, and my ground clearance is about 10cm. looks good, but I'm sure will stuck at speed bumps, have to minus another 1/2 inch now, using 2.7 exhaust, so nearly half inch sits lower than chassis and subframe. Only drove it around a few days, then revert to two finger gap back. lol.

If running 205/50R16, okay a bit I think.

Damn, why our accords here so CACAT one!?




Stumbled across an interesting article. It's quite old. Reading about it, I am sad. Honda doesn't represent quality like it used to.
http://www.autoworld.com.my/v2/news/nb_det...D=RT.ATC.CAR.NW

I think NAP forcing honda to make super cheapo cars just to sell in malaysia.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 4 2012, 01:27 PM

Ah, bendix metal king, I will forever remember these pads that killed my rotor. On road use, okay, but they can really eat your rotors with hard braking. I remember these pads only reaching 70% use, then I had to replace my rotor already.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 5 2012, 02:48 PM

Don't take it out to track or drive too ganas. Road use, still okay lah.. lol.

If they eat your rotor, can find excuse to run prelude BB rotors and calipers.

Biasalah, wear and tear is always a good excuse to upgrade the car.
btw, the bendix metal king I used was for honda legend, the pads fit my EK9 calipers. (and yes, I am on EG)

Now I'm back on endless, but prices rising up like mad, so EBC will likely be my next choice.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 5 2012, 10:39 PM

2 years? I think mine also near that, not exactly two years, but almost. No choice because I was stuck in Terengganu, nobody selling performance pads, and Bendix was the closest I could get on a short notice. Brakes wore out, didn't notice, till I went to fill up the tyre air, saw pads only left 1-2mm after the backing plate part. lol

EBC yellows, since they're like in the RM500 region while Endless is also near RM500 already. (Shop said new stock price going up) Red and greens usable too, and cheaper.
My friend also swears by them, so I guess it's a good option.

They work fine cold, my friend using it on his daily drive EK. Modded with odyssey brakes. (huge brakes)
I'm still on Endless, just changed last year @ RM450ish.

Congrats, with B20v, 200whp is standard output. That's why finding it strange that you don't get 200whp with B20v before this. Now you know the meaning of "want power, tune that shit".

Anyway, what exhaust you are running? The cutoff also ah?

But good also retard slightly the ignition, or rich a bit at top for safety.

Oh btw, I need to ask this. How you feel about your car traction with B20v? What tires you running?

These few days rain, I noticed my traction is non existent, more than 50% throttle straight wheelspin. Usually not so bad, so it must mean that my RE002s are hitting the half wear mark.

Also, still haven't gotten around to putting on the Superpro bushes, apparently one of my LCA thread for the swaybar is gone case, so I am going to get a replacement tommorow. Also messed up while jacking the bushing. Accidentally jacked out the entire bushing and warped the arm. Luckily it was the arm with the stripped swaybar thread. Going to BURN IT WITH FAIYA now, see if it's more effective or not. And I'm going to modify the LCAs to always accept superpro bush so later on easy to replace.

Picture unrelated.. or is it? My other fave honda model, the Honda Beat.


Also, while regreasing my S2 rear camber kit, I've realized that the V2 bushes are quite lasting compared to the V1. The crush tubes are still a tight fit on the bushes. The V1 bushes only lasted me one year plus.

My s2 camber kit is so old, the camber kit is no longer adjustable, all seized up. Fortunately I already set the stance, so all I have to do is keep replacing the bushes when they wear. But while reinstalling it back, I've realized that the honda rear camber arm is not pivoting in a straight line, it needs to deflect a bit. My s2 camber kit bushes wore out at those places, but not by much. So looks like in the future, I will definitely get spherical adjustable camber kits.

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Added on August 6, 2012, 3:56 amWut? Don't you get a lot of the nose dive when you brake hard?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 6 2012, 03:56 AM

Ouch, that is pretty low, Even my friend running 82x87.3 setup manages 200whp, but his one is mad high compression. around 12.5
Compared to my 85x87.3, I think maybe mine is due to the 11.8CR or type R head flow restriction. Mostly seems to be limited to 200whp unless if add more stroke, or ported from what I've seen. Nasty portflow I went to visit, not impressed though, because they hog out the port. I'm not a porter, but I do research enough to know how a good port should look like, because I worry kena tipu by rubbish porting.

Nice, mine is bigger, but twin bullet, so maybe a bit of restriction there as well, and I also currently on 2.25 cat pipe. Got offer at ipoh for a 2.7" kakimoto center piping, so I'm going there sometime after raya and picking it up, going to chop2 it up and mod into a decat pipe.

Sure it's clutch slip? because the clamping load on organics and race clutch good for up to 250-300hp from what I know. But guess I'm not the only one with traction problems. With helical, still can one wheel spin, but perhaps it's due to tire, since helical not really great at truly locking up both wheels.

Racing clutch will never tahan one, because they don't like half clutch releases.

Yeah, pretty much. got the gap in the middle, and I found 30mm steel tube that fits perfectly, so going to mod it so it's a full steel tube so easier to press in the bushing.

Hard race makes spericals, but have to special order, I have the Hardrace spherical RTA ones. Local dealer/distributor don't stock it. It's stiff, but surprisingly, not noisy, except if on rough road surfaces, if on smooth highway, feels like stock bush. Price should be close to s2 original camber kit. at 600-700ish. I'm on skunk2 now, but seized up, so if the bush goes, I'll probably go for hardrace camber kit later. Since I use the EK9 trailing arm for rear, my camber with stock camber arms are -2 each side. So have to use camber kit, if stock, just replace the bushings enough to restore camber.

Heh, you should try monoflex, or any monotube, low speed sensitivity is really great if setup properly.

As for my brakes, I'm running 5 lug EK9s front and rear, so the rear disc is also slightly bigger. Can lock all four wheels even when I ran semi-slicks. Friend runs full BB front and rears. Last time always say worry too heavy, now also convert, he say best mod is the brakes.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 6 2012, 01:50 PM

You think I mod overnight kah? 8-9 years in the making lo my car.

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Added on August 7, 2012, 12:11 amHe's on PowerFC, using some cams (I forgot what, I think toda Cs), increase overlap a bit from stock, move the powerband higher, with small cc, this is the only way to get higher hp I think. A lot of people don't do cam tuning, then dyno tune only.

Because one day, I will put in a magnaflow 2.5" cat, when I dunno, but I will put in so as to have a nicer smelling exhaust that doesn't kill my braincells lol. Maybe when I turbo my car down the road 2-5 years later. Cost getting more viable since super90 started making cheap sleeved blocks.

Hahaha.. good luck searching for answer.

True, but no choice because over here people rarely bother about handling, mostly go for power and looks. Chris got stock for sphericals, but the new one he brought in is open type, and although can buy seperately the dustboot, I prefer hardrace since they come sealed.

They don't? I remember got one EK here with monoflex, maybe the old days got. My friend other friend got Tien HT, I want to trade my Omni's but he don't want. Oh well.. guess I'll stick with my Omni's. If want to drag, just plonk in 12kg springs in the rear.. lol. Never did it before, but US fellas recommend to do that for drag cars. (since the Omni's are actually drag shocks, not really road race ones, but I reverse install them for road use Front to rear, vice versa, also by honda-tech peep'srecommendation.)

Coincidentally I run those same spring rates. 10kg F and 8kg R, I also got spare track/drag springs at 12kg and 10kg. Gab SS eh? I got quoted 2.4K for them a year back I think. Looks a bit low quality to me, but as long as is monotube.... I think can set it up properly or change the oil to increase rebound damping if not enough

5 lugs was something I did when I had Mugen MF10s, but someone offered too good a price and I let them go. Now on buddy club P1s, got them cheap, but I nicked them so many times cannot trade in or sell off already. LOL.

Damn, sounds sweet. But I don't think the brake balance would be that great though, but maybe you will get those brake bias valves to tune. Brake hard enough and the rear would probably become very light and swing around when trail braking.

Aren't we all tight for money.. haha. everything getting more expensive, even EG parts also crazy prices now.

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Added on August 7, 2012, 12:13 amAlso, got the K-tuned shifter mounted today on the K20 EG, tight fit, tommorow have to open up the holes for the shifter mounting holes to put in the k tuned adjustable spacers to move it front a bit.

Everything progressing well, still waiting for some minor bits to arrive, like the IACV reroute spacer, water temp adapter and stuff.

Debating on the traction bar now, going to email ktuned to see if it clears the A/C.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 7 2012, 12:13 AM

I dunno, I used to be a honda fan, but these kinds of features cost too low to even consider them to be able to offset the cost from an engine downgrade. I'm not talking about racer boys either, because some of my friends all also moving away from honda civic as a family car due to perceived value, not due to performance.

Most of them have been using CIVIC EK, ES, FD1, and guess what they're buying now? Korean cars or second hand contis! One guy even had enough bad experience with FD1 that he totally abandoned honda and upgraded to a BMW. He said he's giving up on Honda cars due to the lack of quality and value he'd come to expect.

push start? < the cost for this is so laughable because people have been doing it since before it was popular, and it costs only 2 relays and a SPST switch. And being manufacturers, obviously they have economies of scale working for them, custom design? would that even cost anything to the manufacturers?

Auto levelling headlight? two potentiometers, 2 servomotors and a controller. consider manufacturer costs, negligible. It's amazing how gimmicky this can get.

Power seats? switches and motors? it's just an additional motor and switches! costs neglilgible too. Seen power seats since the 90's, doesn't add much of a premium on a car.

Multi info display with colour < LCD so cheap now! and considering you can buy OBD2 monitors for below 1.5K with 'colour' displays as well. manufacturer can get even cheaper with their own custom design and mass production.

Econ function, it's just an extra mapping for ECU to run in fuel saving mode, along with using smaller secondary intake runners (if they are using that method) and also VTC (again, if they have that).
Using all existing technology they already implemented on EARLIER GENERATIONS.

Face it bro, "New" Honda Civic no longer the value for money car it once was... Honda better buck up or it's going to be left behind by a lot of previous Honda owners. It's bad news when they are trying to attract the new eco hippies and totally abandoning their loyal fanbase who have always admired Honda for their perceived value for money and also good performance while having moderate to excellent levels of fuel consumption.

If want to keep believing, go ahead, but don't come crying when you find your honda resale value isn't as good as you hoped 4-7 years (or more, if they even last that long) down the road.

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Added on August 7, 2012, 12:43 pmNo, OBD1 cars like yours use the modified seat belt socket or "Paperclip"™ SCANNER.

Speedo not working, change speedo/VSS sensor first, then only check meter. Reason being speedo sensor is 'cheaper' compared to replacing meter, and more likely to fail since it's exposed to the elements.

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Added on August 7, 2012, 12:47 pmThe civic 1.7 2nd hand parts not easy to get. I suggest better pick any other model/year that suits your budget. The 1.7 is a bit of a rarity in malaysia.

If you want and can afford new honda parts, then by all means....

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Added on August 7, 2012, 1:03 pmHeh, good for you then. Custom is definitely better.
I wouldn't go with 8kg rears if you don't have poly or sphericals though. It will be HARD.
With poly and sphericals, since they're freely rotating, 8kg actually feels like 6kg. Have to dial in the rebound.

Hmm. strange, because I had the opportunity to compare both at Samurai Racing (they put them side to side) and they look pretty similar in quality. I guess perhaps that guy got a bad set.

But K tuned parts to avoid is the headers. The swap header, the race header, and the ram style header. I don't care that they're dyno tested, the finishing is just SHITTY. I thought it was maybe the swap header, being a budget type and all, but after looking at their other headers with my own eyeballs, they're the.... same!

A) ports not of similar size (I traced a paper to make sure my eyes not tricking me)
B) welds are ugly.
C) can see protrusions in the exhaust pipe.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 7 2012, 01:16 PM

Actually swap k20a might be cheaper down the road at 5-6 years.
8-9 years la, I went from d16 to B16, then B18 then B20.
B16A still alive, but in pieces in my garage.B18C died due to accident, d16a I traded off. I replaced when they started wearing out, so it's slow slow lah. Why would you want to replace something if they're working fine?

Like my B20b, still working fine, why I want to swap in a K20A? the K20A is my friend's one lah, the amount of years he used his b18c also worth his money spent already.

Like yours, now that you're on bendix, you can let them eat your rotors, and you can upgrade to bigger discs later on. Just make sure you got budget for it, if not, just get replacement rotors and drive it stock loh, even the old 20+ EG with b16A is faster at overtaking than any malaysian car in the market right now. (notice I said overtaking, the low end torque isn't that great, lol, can tune, but probably can make it comparable to wira 1.6 pickup only.

Not actually not giving it up for a new car, but more like I can't find a car that appeals to me.
I like plain cars with less electronics, and more of handling and power. But those kinds of cars usually out of my budget (to mod), and I missed out on a chance of owning a lotus exige that the owner wanted to sell relatively cheap. So it's back to honda and the B-series engine. If the car gets scraped/scratched, not much of sakit hati, unlike when you drive a 200K+ car and suddenly you find a scratch on the car.

About the video.

That just means the car is too lasting for him. He's the type who lets his car rusts.

Mine is 20 years old this year and still looks good. Rust spots starting to appear though.. at rear quarterpanel/fender
MUUUSSSSTT FIIXXXXX!~

Currently saving up for either a new chassis/repair the eg, or moving up to DC2. The parts still carry over. so.. huehuehue

It's all in the matter of how much integra DC2 chassis can be had in 2 years time. If can get cheap, DC2, if not, I fix this EG up again till it's in the classic car category. LOL.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 7 2012, 08:47 PM

Although some people (family and relatives) think that i spend way too much on my car, I can tell you the amount.
RM80K including buying the car at 30K. So I spent 50K on fixing and putting in 3 different engines.

Some people say

"But that can buy you a NEW CAR!!"
And to which I would reply "4 door sedan with 200+hp (since mine is 203whp)" Name one model with that kind of performance for 80K, use it for 10 years, and tell me after 10 years how much you spent."
"But new cars SAFER!"
"Without maintenance and prudent driving, people still DIE driving the latest cars no matter how safe it is."

The reality is, people want new car to show of their status symbol. If they want to, go ahead, I'll be enjoying the money I didn't spent on a new car elsewhere, like a house, or a second car.
Oh wait, I already have a second car and a house.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 7 2012, 09:03 PM

Eh you got it reversed.
Parts from EG can fit into DC2 chassis and vice versa. like front subframe, engine and the accessories, suspension components. Body parts/main chassis is a no-no, although can mod, it's not legal. Since I modded mine, can carry over those parts instead of having to sell them off and buying again for the DC2 chassis.

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Added on August 7, 2012, 9:02 pmWhat market? All cars depreciate like a sinking rock, the more expensive it is, the higher the amount of value depreciate.

Take for example, if you buy a skyline R34, sure can say that since the mods, can sell for higher price, but if the guy is rich enough to buy it in cash, he'll probably be using that money to put downpayment for a new one. Rarely only can sell to an enthusiast that will buy it for what it's truly worth.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 7 2012, 09:04 PM