Eh EG B series? Scan tool? now that's new to me. Usually just jumper the SCS connector, read code, then kawtim.

Without knowing the code. How to identify the problem?

If me, I solve the problem first, then decide the wiring. Tidy wiring repacked, then you fine one of them putus, you need to repack again. If you print money, then by all means go ahead la. Time is another factor. If me, I'll sort out the problem first, then repack and redo the wiring.

Get CEL code first, then can suggest something.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 22 2012, 01:31 PM

entire meter cluster including clock? should be loose/broken connection somewhere. If you're lucky, it's just a loose socket.

Service Check Connector SCS connector le, passenger side, female socket. It looks like the seat belt buckle female socket on the stock EG.

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Added on July 22, 2012, 4:58 pmIf lost, I take photo later. I have stripped interior.. LULZ.



This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 22 2012, 04:58 PM

Specialist tech? no... I'm more of a DIY person. If I have the tools, I do it myself. I stripped out because I'm removing the soundproofing and solve any rust problem before it gets too unmanagable. Since DIY, slow slow la bro. LOL.

My real job takes more of my time mah. Play car is still just a hobby.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 22 2012, 05:13 PM

Heh, turbo vs NA mah.
Only honda NA's usually compared to turbo. Other makes, without turbo, sure fall flat on it's face if compare displacement to horsepower.

Must be boosting at least 1.5bar or more if like that.

Not sure, i haven't seen a fn2 exhaust system before. I think you cannot fit due to flange. Header must have 2.5 outlet. Exhaust side must mod one, since most ori 2.5 exhaust is 2.25 sized to stamdard cat. Only aftermarket hi flow cat have 2.5 inch inlet and outlet i think. At least from what i have seen. If race exhaust, usually no downsize to 2.25 at cat. Straight 2.5

lol, slow month for me as well, this weekend going to wire up AN hoses for the fuel filter, and also if manage to finish installing everything, start up my friend's EG K20a.

Going to setup Tein type HT shocks for my friend too. He found a set at a local kedai potong. Rebound damping mostly. compression damping pretty much okay already. Had to translate japanese online pdf manual to get the starting points for it.

8 and 6 clicks back stage for rebound (means 8 and 6 clicks back.. Japanese and their weird weird language)
bampu saido and ribaundo. Thanks google translate!

but that's just starting point, so going to drive it around and see how it goes.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 25 2012, 02:36 AM

Yeah, the newer japanese cars all fail suspension. Swift, Honda City, Latio, Vios, too comfy setup. when pushed, handling all over the place, that's why a lot of 'terbabas' cases now. Driver pushing past the limits of the car. You can't maintain 140kmh+ with stock suspension and expect to be able to avoid anything on the road without having the car fishtailing due to easy weight shift with the stock suspension.

Waja quite okay handling for stock car, but too bad they have failures in other area, The most notoriious is the power windows. Aftermarket settled the problem first before proton R&D fellas managed to.

Coz civic got two versions, the FD1 or FD2? One is comfort, one is performance oriented?
Furthermore, Civic is in another segment from the one I highlighted.
That's why honda city is there, and the honda civic is not.

Civic fanboy also got reason mah, if not for the banning of pre-2000 cars, you think satria neo would have stood a chance in sepang?

It's no coincidence that first time satria neo takes the podium is when EK/EGs were banned from the track.

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Added on July 26, 2012, 2:49 pmTok kok of the day.

"Sial... laju betul Preve CFE kawan aku tu. Dia tinggal Honda Civic 2.0 aku kaw kaw.."

"Apa punya member, sekurang2nya, tunggu aku HABIS MAKAN NASI dulu"

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 26 2012, 02:49 PM

B16a is not a fuel saving engine. I got roughly 350-450km per tankful n the best days. Driving at sub 3k rpm will save fuel, but with auto, you won't be able to manage it.

with b20b, fuel consumption is better, because i use higher gear and maintain low revs. If i drive like my b16a, fc definitely can throw out the window.

if want save fuel, driving habit most important of all.
D16 is an okay engine, fuel consumption is quote good but oldengine,those rubbers waiting to crack

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Added on July 26, 2012, 9:37 pmMusafir bro

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 26 2012, 09:41 PM

With what will he repair the crack? at best, can try seal the crack with silicone, then see if his HID bulbs still blow. If no, then yeah, better he replace the headlight, and the SC guy is right. IF after sealing the hole but it still blows, it must be some other problem already no?

Yes, strengthened chassis. The ek9 also gets a beefier rear subframe so it can use bigger ARB

No such luck for EG9. EG9 is just a luxury spec for regular EG.
The only one that gets the reinforced treatment other than EKs is the DC2 Type R vs the normal one.
Lucky for EG owners, most DC2 parts carry over to the EG.

EK9 is closer to track car to EK3 sports hatch

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Added on July 29, 2012, 11:50 pmIt's a D16 non vtec, local spec. The engine code is different. not sure why.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 29 2012, 11:53 PM

I'm running RON95 for my KL trip last week. Had to retard 2 degress of the entire map.
Power a bit less, but still acceptable.

D series is tuned for RON95 from factory. If you bought the car new, you would have notice the Minimum RON95 sticker at the fuel filler cover there.

(For B series)
If you don't have management, you can retard your distributor also. This used to be a common thing during the old car days. They have a plug at the distributor you can change on the volvo, depending if you run higher octane or not. What it does is reduce the timing.
If you use a digital timing light (the adjustable type) you can try set the idle timing to 14 from the original 16

Else, pakai bantai and retard by guestimate.

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Added on July 30, 2012, 12:28 ammy old engine when first bought the car also ME engine, but it's really the D series. Just without vtec. Parts interchangeable, including the ECU.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 30 2012, 12:30 AM

B16A is fun. If you fix it up, 170-180hp is good enough for lightweight EG.

Even when I had it stock, I ran management and solved the torqueless low end of B16A, which is really bad once you run open pod with big headers and 2.25" exhaust.
My hondata serial number is in the 100 range. Lol, I saw box recently already 9000+ units sold in MY/Asia. Feels so old mang.

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Added on July 30, 2012, 2:04 am@Madman,
The Ktuned billet B series shifter already got at Chris's place, Samurai Racing and N1.

Looks solid, but I already like the 25mm throw on type R shifters.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 30 2012, 02:04 AM

N1 is authorized dealer, not sure about chris. But I like buying from chris because he's helpful and friendly compared to N1.

The shifter is like RM500 or so. I didn't ask price, but that should be the price range.

Oh, googled Ktuned page. Apparently all the guys I mentioned are authorized Ktuned Dealers. LOL.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 30 2012, 02:36 AM

Oh, btw, my inline fuel filter install had to wait. Kantoi because I didn't consider that I have to modify my hard lines. This is a brand new level of FAIL for me.

Looks like I'm going to get these. I wonder if Ken Racing shop sells them. I don't think so though, I remember not seeing them at his counter.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Product...apter-Fittings/

Anyway,
Bought the superpro bush from hokomoto. Arrived yesterday. Still sitting on my table ATM.

Hopefully I can install it myself tommorow. Compared to OEM lower arms at RM580 each, RM330 for the rear lower arm set is not exactly cheap but still cheaper than OEM option.

Long RANT here about people saying poly is lousy.

Oh, of note is that people always say polybush squeaks, but I'm running poly on 90 percent on my suspension. Only the front lower arm is rubber, and spherical on my trailing arms. The rest is skunk2 polys on the skunk2 camber kit or superpro.

Guess what? it's two years, and I have zero squeaks. Makes you wonder if people really know how to install poly bushes doesn't it?

But... not all is well though.
The spericals on the trailing arms is one year old now, and I get a bit of free play already from the rattling sounds occasionally, so guess it wasn't a good option for a street car. Still quiet though, it's just the rough roads that rattles it a bit. Only on one side though, so I suspect it might be due to my worn lower arm bushings stressing out the sphericals, it's the price I pay for not doing complete swap I guess. Still, I got the sphericals at a good price from chris, so no complaints. but next time, I'm going for hardrace, since I can't use superpro, because I already removed the OEM outer sleeve when I pressed in the spherical bush.


Well, if you guys want, I will post pictures of how I install my superpro bushes. I usually pack them with the superpro grease, put them in plastic bag, and leave it overnight. Then only press them in. It's not mentioned at any sites, but that's how I mounted my skunk2 bushes, and that's how I have no squeaks. Most people think that poly bushes like ori bushes, cannot grease the outer part, but it's not like that. I had a mechanic install my bushes before, and he said don't need to great the outer part. I said must put, different system mah, but he argued that he's been doing it for years and he's sure. So I let him do it his way.

Guess what? I broke the bushes after 6 months. Hence why I DIY them now, and my method works!

Usually for me, what takes time is not the pressing the bush in, but the cleaning of the rubber bits on the inner sleeve of the ori bushes, since reusing that part when mounting polybushes, we don't remove them. I use a wire brush to clean usually, then fine grit to sandpaper to smooth things out. If you don't smooth out the surface, you will wear out the bush, that's why you see some got the outer diameter got aggresive wear.. because unlike bearings, the poly bush rotates on the OD of the bushing (a little) and on the crush tube (a lot).

Which is why we have to grease the OD as well.

Also, poly bushes not maintainance free. They need to be regreased from time to time. I think after two years, I should regrease mine, so that's probably what I'm going to do this week, bit by bit. So pardon me if I disappear offline.





This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 30 2012, 03:06 AM

Oh, not silicone, I'm running braided for fuel lines. So far from what I've researched only earls make them. And I need to buy a flare tool. Not expensive, but damn, I have to take out the intake to do the flares on the hard lines. So damn lazy to do that.

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Added on July 30, 2012, 4:01 amYeah, should be around there based on MSRP.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 30 2012, 04:08 AM

The facelifted version 2.0 litres downgraded from 2.0 DOHC to SOHC for better fuel "fuel consumption".

Engine downgrade, why price no DOWNGRADE!?

Camnilah marketing bullshit.

Oh i see. But i doubt they have the fitting i want. Because they are doing the old style sleeve tube conversion. But i'll put it on hold for now. Need swap the oem fuel regulator as well, and i have to figure out how to mod it to AN

today, kautim the bushes first