Superpro bushes. I have great experience with them, and they haven't broken on me, yet. LOL.
And despite people saying poly bushes squeak, I haven't had that issue really, since I grease em after a year plus. some of the bushes are already on their second greasing, and they haven't grown loose yet, except for the rear top camber arm, for reasons I'll mention later.

I did know someone who bought the cheaper pu bushes, after a year, the bush just got loose.

And no rattling from the spherical I put in the trailing arm compliance bush mount. It's the third year, I'm expecting a fair bit of rattling, but.. there's none!

Local hardrace not stocking the sphericals. I am looking to get sphericals for the rear camber adjusters, but seems like they don't bring it in.

I know pentagon in bringing another brand of sphericals, but their one has no dust shield, unlike hard race.

The reason I want the rear top camber arm to be spherical is due to the angle to the knuckle, and if I use poly on there, it tends to go out of round. So my top adjustable camber arm always has one bush going out of round. Hopefully plonking sphericals on there would solve the problem.

if it works for you, great! I cannot use too soft ones. the rough roads here just chew them up.

Thats why I am wondering why some complaining about squeaking. interference fitting off maybe?

usj 1 has a lot of body repair shopa

why going back stock? the price is not cost effective at all.

after switching to poly bushes, all i can say it that they're definitely more lasting than rubber, but if you switch everything to poly and retain stock suspension, you will feel the stock suspension is too soft lol.

the material has certainly changed, because the old polybushes of yesteryear were prone to cracking and loosening.

i put back 8kg springs and absorbers (spoon street damper) at the back while waiting for the polybush to arrive. after using 10kg for two years plus, the rear feels... too soft lol

Seconded, the only one to avoid from hardrace is the front compliance bush. I tried two sets. holes did not align with subframe.
I modded the front compliance bush to fit my car so the only hardrace I have now is the spherical trailing arm bush, and the front compliance bush. Planning to swap the front compliance bush to superpros. and use back the original compliance mounts.

I broke the stock bushing all on the front lower arm within a year after replacing them. That's ori honda for you LOL. Guess railing through corners with semi slicks and over bumps kills them pretty quick.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Mar 5 2013, 12:03 AM

I got from Pentagon when he was still dealer. Now the official dealer status is hokomoto at Batu Caves.

It's not cheap. More expensive than Hardrace, and unless you are running stiff spring rates, go with hard race.

Polybushes are meant to be run with hard spring rates, because it's a free floating bushing unlike rubber which are fixed.

Also, if you break your bushing often, then it's better you go with polys.

Mine not fully super pro, it'a mix of skunk2, superpro and hardrace sphericals.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Mar 6 2013, 12:54 PM

AFAIK whole arm hardrace only available for US type u bracket suspension.

the eyelet type is sadly not available. Dunno why they don't bother to bring in.

eg and del sol, the power steering pulley cannot clear the hood

did teflon bush because Hokomoto doesn't stock the bushing for my application. its too stiff. I think i will have to order superpro blank tube and machine out myself. derp.

lower shock mounts. looks good but its hard..

means exactly that. run without power steering, or run a smaller pulley. you would still have to cut the hood webbing.
teflon hood would be nice, dust just doesn't stick

not sure. haven't seen a car running hybridracing /innovative mounts

good luck, i searched for a pillar pods locally for years. proton one ada la, oe universal one, both fits ugly.
currently i use 52mm universal ring mounts, stick to steering stalk console there. posted pic a while back i think

if somehow you manage to find one that fits nice, let me know.

I also got spare pillar pieces, would probably do my own when i run out of other things to do.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Mar 16 2013, 02:06 AM

oh, i just did something crazy last night. just lipat corner like a boss with a near empty tank and managed to starve the engine of fuel. luckily low rpm else new engine lol

japan makes nice one, but the price..... fuuuuuuuuuuuuuu
of course not the A pillar type you wanted, but I like the layout.
http://westhillmotorsports.blogspot.com/20...-gauge-pod.html

english version, link to japanese site also got.

45mm OD only though

POISON OF THE DAY
http://www.hrtuning.com/pages/category/tunerviewrd1

This is what I am planning to do once my meter spoils. It interfaces with my PLX sensors and honda, so I can ditch all the ugly meters.



This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Mar 18 2013, 04:27 PM

that is pretty standard. my old b16 with y21 gbox also same ratio. 3rd is 140 on meter, 135ish real speed.
you should see modded gbox with turbo. 1st gear 80kmh, 2nd gear 120, third 160, forth 190, 5th 280 (cruising ratio)

afaik top speed for ls gbox in fifth gear at 9k rpm is 300ish kmh with 4.4 final

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Mar 20 2013, 03:52 PM

about 178 in fourth according to gps madman. i tarik until revcut on 15" 205/50R15

of course a cat equipped car would be slower, catalytic converters give very high restriction at high rpm

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Mar 21 2013, 08:12 AM

power steering fluid usually no need topup. I think the only time I topup was when I rebuild my engine or power steering pump leaked. the system is very high pressure, so usually the leak is not 'wet patch' like oil.

oil sump gasket is not easy to replace from under the car. mainly because need to scrape off the sealant and stuff used on the sump and block mating surfaces before putting back. if you have a a four post lift, it is much easier, but strains neck a bit because you have too look up and work.

vtec solenoid gasket is easy, but usually the leak is from the cam cap, not the solenoid. Cam cap, not so easy. I prefer to use a torque wrench because too tight would bind the cams, but some people/mechanic like to go with their 'gut' feel.

all grippy tires suck in the wet lol. re01r not very bad but still a bit wobbly in rain