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 HONDA CIVIC Club V11, My VTEC goes BWAAAAAHH!!!!

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sadako-chan
post Jun 5 2013, 06:45 PM

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cannot delete double post lame.. edit instead

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 5 2013, 07:06 PM
sadako-chan
post Jun 5 2013, 11:38 PM

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well my skunk2 stuff just cleared customs, no news on chasebay yet. bleh. new pillowballs for my camber kit and s2 bushings.
sadako-chan
post Jun 7 2013, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(siauann @ Jun 6 2013, 05:57 PM)
car temperature goes up after a 30mins drive. temperature only go up when car is idle / not moving (in a traffic jam or long queue)
after car start moving / driving temperature go back to normal. what happen? - problem no.1

send car to do radiator flushing. scared radiator dirty or something block. after done, start car and drive back. suddenly check light come out. speedometer not working. gear D4 no light. gear doest seems to shift. stays at 4th gear which makes no acceleration when driving. - problem no. 2

problem no.2 arise after i send my radiator for flushing. what can be the cause. all workshop close now. need wait tmrw sad.gif
*
I think possibly that when you fix the radiator, somehow one of the grounds got loose. Check all the ground wires near the radiator area.
sadako-chan
post Jun 7 2013, 09:08 PM

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QUOTE(siauann @ Jun 7 2013, 06:41 PM)
check all from top looks like all ok. maybe need to jack up car and view from below? have not send to workshop yet. didnt not drive the car today.
wait till tmrw im not working then head to workshop
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there's six or seven ground wires in total, all viewable from above. Loose ecu ground near thermostat also a cause for reason you get strange electronic issues.

worth a look. this is all assuming that everything else is okay.
sadako-chan
post Jun 7 2013, 09:12 PM

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well, placed an order for a few stuff. Hardrace staff not bad, I ordered sphericals from them. 1-2 months waiting period lol.

prepping the chassis for future upgrades. And also increasing sakit belakang lol.

sadako-chan
post Jun 7 2013, 11:33 PM

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QUOTE(siauann @ Jun 7 2013, 09:33 PM)
before radiator cleaning car is functioning well. after the remove and wash/flush coolant pasang back then light come out. sad.gif will send for checking tmrw
where did u order the hardrace?
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RSone, same guys selling GAB suspension (main distributor)

Trust me that you don't want sphericals, it's harsh, but I have no choice because I keep breakin the stock bushes.

sadako-chan
post Jun 8 2013, 01:42 AM

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Oh DZUS fastener measurements for those interested
I found the link in my browser.

http://www.dzusfasteners.net/pages/Dzus-Me...ment-Guide.html
sadako-chan
post Jun 10 2013, 08:06 AM

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QUOTE(siauann @ Jun 9 2013, 05:10 PM)
car fixed. wiring problem. now everything back to normal. luckily
*
what was loose? or broken?
sadako-chan
post Jun 13 2013, 04:04 PM

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QUOTE(unitron @ Jun 11 2013, 02:06 AM)
Any member workshop to recommend?
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got, but more of a track car shop than a car workshop lol
sadako-chan
post Jun 18 2013, 01:14 PM

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QUOTE(awyongcarl @ Jun 16 2013, 08:01 PM)
Yes, fitting is almost a guaranteed problem when installing a CF hood. You will not get a 100% fitment, consider yourself veeery lucky if you can get it fitted without using any washer or stuffs with just minor adjustments.


Did you ever think that thats due to you guys USING imitation hoods?

Varis, no fitment issues on a couple of my friends EG and an Evo7
J's Racing vented, no fitment issues

Seibon, slight fitment issue had to sand the edges slightly due to thick clear coat and possibly resin. (US Stuff finishing is poorer than japan, but still mostly workable. except for US brand, but made in taiwan or china.

I'd put seibon as similar to imitation quality, but at least it's over built and doesn't flex much as a front hood.

Some of these cars are used for nearly 10 years with a carbon hood without a hood pin.

So it should be:

IF YOU ARE USING IMITATION CARBON HOODS THEN DON'T EXPECT QUALITY.
a) use hood pins because the iMITATION HOODS are prone to break/crack flex etc.

Seriously most of the time I see carbon hoods with pins are imitations.






sadako-chan
post Jun 18 2013, 01:16 PM

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Heck lately everything I see is imitations. its so bad that even the imitations are trying to be sold as originals, like the ASR bar. its so funny when people see mine and they think its fake because its not polished aluminium like the fake ones.

Heck I don't even want to argue anymore with these people who are using fakes then thinking they are using originals and being proud of it. You want to use counterfeit parts go ahead.. but when you start thinking yours is original, that is seriously f***ed up.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 18 2013, 01:20 PM
sadako-chan
post Jun 18 2013, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(archonixm @ Jun 16 2013, 05:39 PM)
Anybody got good exhaust setup/formula for Civic FD2? And where can it be done?
I mean the kaki exhaust shop, not branded such as SuperCircuit, or Hotbits. Must come with good workmanship. Hehe
*
everco does high quality welds. most conti or sports car owners who cannot afford real conti performance exhaust go there. They are cheap or pricy depending on the exhaust tubing material. 304 ss is not cheap.

Why not skunk2 alpha? it's reasonably cheap.

or second hand exhaust.

But if you don't mod your engine, best not play with the exhaust system. the middle piping is big enough. If you want to change the exhaust note, then just the muffler will do.
sadako-chan
post Jun 18 2013, 01:49 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jun 18 2013, 01:30 PM)
agreed.... im using the fake ASR....and constantly tell everyone that theyre fakes biggrin.gif
*
ASR is something that doesn't matter if they're fakes. before asr, all we used was a solid aluminium block that machine shop made. But it was something that is necessary to run bigger arb. strange that it now become cosmetic accessories.

Another one that using fakes is okay is the diffusser (the lobang type) not the one with fins. haha.

Just realized yesterday how easy it was to control my car, i purposely entered a negative camber corner fast and made very fast turn in and tap on the brake, rear tire slid sideways, countersteered and floored it. (closed roadway, no traffic)

damn easy. Next must try at dato sagor.
sadako-chan
post Jun 18 2013, 01:54 PM

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chasebays, skunk2 arrived. still waiting on a few other stuff.

Alabama to Malaysia is far. normal freight takes almost a month.

Quality wise skunk2 as usual. chasebays.. a bit rough, but usable.

Now fidanza flywheel and tucked radiator left.
sadako-chan
post Jun 18 2013, 01:56 PM

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oh bought wrong size radiator cap. Now I have a USDM v8 radiator cap haha
17lbs rad cap. thats for high performance small block chevys.

even the catch can is oversized. its huge. lol

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 18 2013, 02:03 PM
sadako-chan
post Jun 18 2013, 02:06 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jun 18 2013, 02:02 PM)
wats the weight on the fidanza? and why no toda or spoon or other locally available flywheels?

ur pairing it with what clutch?
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7lbs, less than 4kg. pairing it with my exedy organic. should not be too bad with quads. itbs slow down the rev drop due to its characteristics so i am going to see if it works or not.

not going JDM because price. The fidanza costs a bit above 1k new.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 18 2013, 02:07 PM
sadako-chan
post Jun 19 2013, 12:37 PM

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QUOTE(unitron @ Jun 18 2013, 09:25 PM)
Everco.. I DO NOT recommend...  was recommended to do my exhaust there.. end up real con job and bad quality workmanship.

Went in just to weld an exhaust leak and was talking to the boss... the workers simply cut my exhaust to pieces... end up replacing full set SS, extractor to muffler... then come the fitment issue, exhaust hit body everytime I put the car into reverse (due to torque from engine).

Again go in to fix it, but they simply put big dent into the exhaust pipe to clear the body... instead of cutting and re-doing the piping. Pretended like the exhaust was done somewhere else and not by them. boss missing in action

Then after going to another exhaust shop, I found that the extractor was badly designed, instead of a Y joint, it was just a simple U. Had to modify extrator again.
*
Wow, totally different experience from mine. My one they listened to me, i was the one that decide the routing and where to cut. Basically i went there and paid them labour, because I already had a general idea what I want to do.

And they actually confirmed with me when they had to change plans, i.e. the SS pipe I spec'd didn't line up.

I went there twice, they never pandai2 hack my exhaust up


sadako-chan
post Jun 19 2013, 12:45 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jun 18 2013, 10:44 PM)
iirc the exedy flywheels r oso slightly above 1k new

used can get toda or spoon flywheels paired with exedy stage 1 clutches for abt rm750
*
also future proofing. replaceable friction plate.

no used flywheels for me, I'm going new. I just blew a few hundred swapping out a used mugen flywheel that wouldn't give good bite for my organic. at partial declutch, it just slips endlessly. now back on the old R. It slips, but not too badly.

I am not sure if its a clutch problem or the flywheel problem. at certain pedal pressure, the organic would just slip. just like racing clutch. But the thing is, this is not the first time i use organics. it doesn't feel like the current setup i am using now. Right now have to use it like racing clutch. want to release, have to throttle a bit.
sadako-chan
post Jun 19 2013, 01:01 PM

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QUOTE(awyongcarl @ Jun 18 2013, 07:23 PM)
Sorry for the generalization. Yes what you said is probably true. But even then you can never say that it is 100% problem free even with the manufacturer of CF products you just mentioned (ie Seibon or Varis, a quick google of their issue and it's everywhere). What I was trying to say is that when you are installing an aftermarket parts, don't expect 100% stock fitment or you'll be disappointed doh.gif

Alright now I have to wonder, where can I get a good quality Mugen RR style real carbon fiber hood? Cause all the shops I've asked they only offer the cheap CF imitation that uses fiber base with CF over it lol (RM1.6~1.8k)
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Varis got imitations. or rather, varis also has some made in indonesia, so I am not surprised people are having problems with it. Heck, I had a few people with varis bonnet that the clearcoat went milky. But only newer ones though. The fews guy I know with pre year 2000 varis has not faded despite the age.

Like I said, there's so many imitation, that the imitation now pretending to be the real thing. just look at some of the fake rims now having made in japan and jwl certification.
sadako-chan
post Jun 19 2013, 01:45 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Jun 19 2013, 12:50 PM)
replaceable friction plate? damn... ive heard of fidanza... but never knew they had that... never knew ANY flywheel had that laugh.gif
tried re-surfacing the mugen flywheel?
*
co incidentally yes, installed the mugen because it was resurfaced.

this flywheel has got to be the culprit.
last time thought it was loose clutch cover
changed, nope

then clutch pump & release fork
was clutch pump, lowered the engagement point, but still no like it used to.
everything connected already changed, except the flywheel so hope the new fidanza solves it

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