direct owner, sendiri buat paperwork
used car dealer, bayar, tunggu ambik kunci.

price wise naturally dealer more expensive

long term car, these are the things i replaced in order of importance

1. windows and doors rubber seal expect 2k in total including main windshield and rear winshield garnishes.
sounds a lot, but i replaced them in the course of seven years, so bit by bit la. the most expensive turns out to be the window guide rubbers. each is rm280 or so. the rest all 60-80ish

good to replace so you dont find water leaking in everywhere which is important for a car that going to be kept long term. My car is like that as well. if it lasts another 5 years or more, i am going to turbo it.

2. rubber bushings. this too is usually the cause of uneven tire wear. you can cheap out on this but you lose money on tires wearing out unevenly

3. suspension and engine mods. reason why to mod is due to the fact that some original parts are too expensive and inadequate to deal with added power. rear lower arms are rm 580ish each. most people will just go for cheaper aftermarket replacement. I chose to replace with poly bushes. Rm300, if i change it three times also still cheaper than buying ori lower arms. I don't seem to suffer squeaking that other people seem to complain about either, so all is good.

this also applies to engine. i some cases, it is cheaper and faster to plonk in b20b than b18c if your engine fails/leaking oil, etc..
a) b20b is dirt cheap
b) daily driving no need vtec, 1-4k torque of b20b enough.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 31 2013, 01:48 PM

personal tastes i think lolol. you might grow to like it. i didn't though. i drove one for 400km from kl-kelantan. didn't like it

change engine harness to new one afaik the ori one is below one k
second hand one is cheaper.

second hand auto trans is cheap ss well. if auto and in N suddenly die off likely trans position switch.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 31 2013, 11:52 PM

my friend uses oddessey discs and calipers. it barely clears his te37s

fd rotor tophats i don't think so, but have to measure.

ken racing is selling dba rotors for 1.2k a pair

yep solid mounts. but only when low rpm at 500-900rpm. if above that, no vibration and very smooth. thing is, daily drive stop and go and bumper to bumper traffic, 500-900rpm is reached la. to move the car in that situation, i cannot use throttle, just release clutch and let engine idle move the car.

if people don't drive so slow, no problem lo.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Feb 1 2013, 06:11 PM

honda eg, each door has 3 rubbers. the outer pillar seal that extends to the sidemirrors. the middle one that guides the glass window.
the inside one where it covers the inside door edge.

hard to say which one unless you listen listen listen - lulz

yep, i changed one at a time though. mine turns out to be the inner door seal. i replaced the window guide last. but after replacing the window guide rubber... fuh.. power windows moves smoooth like just out of the factory.

but when rainy season. window rubber first!

Plx oil press and AFR installed.

Yeah, the toda oil pump gear gives a boost in engine oil pressure.

80+ psi cold, 50-55psi cold. at idle lol. no shiming the release spring too.

Worth the around 750-800ish aaking price. now to find me a fuel pressure sensor


This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Feb 4 2013, 08:30 PM

i am amazed you didn't know yet. standard oil pump, remove the washer and shim the spring. you won't get as high a pressure as toda's, but it is enough to hit 40psi at 4k rpm so you can turn on VTEC at 5k rpm or less. pretty sure this trick is posted all over honda-tecj

toda is not cheap lol. you have to have new oil pump housing. they sell oil pump gear only. so total is rm600+800

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Feb 5 2013, 12:29 AM

without knowing what your oil pressure is like.. no idea lol. just replace if the pressure cannot hit 40psi at 5.5k rpm

Madman.. whut? cannot find?
www.google.com.my/search?client=chrome-mobile&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8&q=honda+tech+shimming+oil+pump

the washer is under the allen bolt holding the spring. type R doesn't have it, but b16a pump has it.

be careful about increasing too much. you get cavitation, and bubbles in oil is never good for lubrication.

i just read a few, and shimmed mine by 1mm + washer removal. old pressure is about 50ish at 4k rpm and about 80-85ish max.


btw, any owners with a spoiled smart tag unit? I want to crack it open before modding mine. Going to hopefully mod it so that the sensor pickup can be moved to the windshield while keep the unit under the dash

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Feb 5 2013, 01:40 PM

ouch. i don't think that is sold separately. but you can try nissan parts dealer. i think new should be less than rm50 since it is just a spring.

of note, apparently high oil pressure is done so you can run an oil cooler as I suspected before putting in the toda oil pump. I haven't put on the oil cooler yet, and i hit 100psi oil pressure just now. the seal/body (unsure as yet since I have not removed it) of the oil press switch blew, and it sprayed oil at my front subframe. I lost about half a litre of motul turbolight I think. no damage on engine as i immediately slowed down when i saw the oil pressure dropping by 10psi at 9.5k rpm from 100+psi it dropped rapidly to 88psi. Looks like i might need to shop around for an oil cooler sooner than i expected. it still leaks but at less than 80psi, it is just dripping. Looks like I have to sort it out tommorow. Too late to creep under the car and screw in a new one tonight.

Thankfully i made the call to install oil pressure gauge along with the toda pump. else tonight i might have lost the engine if i kept revving up to 9.5k. Actually i did the pressure gauge do i can compare new pressures of a brand new toda pump with my old. I guess I got lucky I did.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Feb 6 2013, 12:31 AM

wah, CNY coming then suddenly everyone quiet. BERAYA KA!?

GONG XI FA CAI to your grandma then. HAHAHA.

Anyway, bought a gasket sheet, making spare gaskets for my ITBs now. Can't wait for cams, but CNY most people no open business yet.

Yeah, killer cams. WALLET KILLER HAHAHA!

S2 Pro 2+, as recommended by Skunk 2 Tech dept.

At first I wanted tuner series, but the aggresive ramp angles for the tuner 2 and 3 are going to be hard on the valvetrain. So and after talking to s2 tech support, since I got deep pocket forged pistons, they recommend that I opt for extra lift and slightly less duration.

Pro 1+ at first, but they say I can run 2+ since I am going to run RON95 with it.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Feb 14 2013, 04:39 AM

replace seal? or change solenoid?

yes. but more likely loose tie rod or pillowball on the knuckle and upper arm. compliance bush mostly affects toe change during acceleration and deceleration. Usually compliance bush gives a feel of bad torque steer or wiggly steering when braking.

if you run a bigger engine, a harder compliance bush gives better handling when accelerating.

also leaking absorbers also give strange feedbacko

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Feb 26 2013, 06:56 PM

Wow this thread is slow, everyone busy ka?

Oh, I broke more of my rubber bushes. LOL

This time it's the suspension lower mount. The poly's are holding up well, so replacing them with poly's too.