anyone who can adjust tappets can do valve lash adjustment just need the specs.


K20A3 engine
Intake:
0.21-0.25 mm (0.008-0.010 in.)
Exhaust:
0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)

K20A2 engine
Intake:
0.21-0.25 mm (0.008-0.010 in.)
Exhaust:
0.25-0.29 mm (0.010-0.011 in.)

torque spec
K20A3 engine:
Intake:
20 Nïm (2.0 kgfïm, 14 lbfïft)
Exhaust:
14 Nïm (1.4 kgfïm, 10 lbfïft)

K20A2 engine: 20 Nïm (2.0 kgfïm, 14 lbfïft) both Intake and Exhaust

b series usually tappet or the lma making noise. mine also on the way out, but got spare head to kebas from so no problem

k series using roller rockers shouldnt go out of spec so easily. then again, local assembled.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 8 2013, 12:17 AM

yep read that madman. too bad j swries over here roadtax is @#×÷=%£ expensive

DB8 has the same length as eg9. even the exhaust swaps over perfectly. most parts interchangeable too. for me, if wanting something different with four doors, then accord CF4 with k24(not k20/24 frankenstein). Family friendly with power to boot.

also has HIDs

then go for it

450km and above is highway driving. city driving consider ok already lo.

my car is a fuel hog at city driving speeds.

another way to save fuel is.. accelerate slower

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 25 2013, 10:39 PM

btw, for those running CAI. i hope you guys not regretting it now, already 3 cars came in with hydrolock at friends place

switchover to open pod sans CAI or stock airbox and make sure the water drain hole in the intake resonator is not blocked and made sligtly larger.

congrats new year saman. lol
i wonder how come you get the front one? i always get the rear end photographed. all two summonses last year show the rear plate.

lol. those two saman all 100kmh BELOW. NOT ABOVE hahaha

more stuff going in the car today. new brakepads, rear mudflaps (bought new)
total spent since buying the car for 25k plus mods/repair for 35k=60k, still not enough to buy a gen2 lololol


PLX wideband and oil preesure sensor kit. going to switch from analog to electronic. compatible with tunerview RD1 so thats an option for the future.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 29 2013, 05:11 PM

haha maintaince first. i finally finished mine a few years back so now is just more performance mods and utility mods.
Most people who use fuel/oil pressure meter don't even know what it is for. I use it to check crank bearing wear and also make sure i don't have catastrophic oil pump failure.

u were saying bro? double din. it works!

don't mind the wires, was doing something else at the time.

anyway, the plx is installed but only wideband afr is working ATM. the VDO oil pressure sender uses a 1/8 NPT thread so i have to make an adapter for it to mount to the stock oil pressure switch location so maybe tomorrow or the day after.. Time to see if what people say about toda oil pump gear upgrade giving higher pressure is true.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 30 2013, 12:35 AM

i used to put in a single din with the pictured brown drawer/storagebox in that double din location. after it died, i replaced with double din. radio +mp3 is cheap. i saw a unit at brother's, no cd, just radio and mp3 player via sdcard/usb. rm68. cheap as shit.

mounts in any single din slot

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 30 2013, 12:57 AM

btw, the expensive part of a oil pressure meter is the oil pressure sender. it costs roughly rm250-400 depending on brand/manufacturer. the vdo is oem on some cars so its cheaper at rm250ish.

analog oil pressure meter is cheaper. i bought my old omori for rm250 2nd hand. the cable is thick though so routing it was a nightmare.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 30 2013, 12:56 AM

I am now seeking vdo type fuel pressure. sender for the second PLX SM-FT input. the sensor is expensive like f*** just because it can tolerate petrol thats slightly caustic without rusting. i'm looking at 100-150usd for them, so kiv for later

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 30 2013, 12:48 AM

i used to use kenwood player. rosak after a month due to vibration lol. better i use china one, tak sakit hati when rosak.

^ since this guy likes shifter extender, he would naturally like the ep3 shifter which is higher.

for people like we who prefers shifter lower, ep3 gear position is fakap.

good choice, performance parts not much if buying as modding base. if driving it stock, its a good buy.

yeah they're supposed to..mine not actually rosak, it is just that the ejection mechanism broke/patah. so cannot eject once put in cd,

i guess when running harder engine mounts, that 'tahanness' goesnout the window. thats why i give up on having cd player already. sdcard or usb sticks only from now on.
^ tangan pendek!!!! lololol. i guess its due to my hand being long, so i tend find the stock type r shifter ok.
i tried my friends ek with shift extender and steering with additional inch spacer. i set my leg length to the pedals, hold his steering, and find my elbow on the side pads of the bucket seat. i had to recline the recaros for elbowroom.

in most cases ek and eg rubbers are starting to deteriorate due to age. and you have to plan for repairs down the road. the other points you make are valid
so better set aside 5k for 'just in case' repairs

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 30 2013, 10:43 PM