should be below 1k for all including parts and labour. hard to estimate because dunnp exact problem.

the sump gasket is maybe rm80 if ori? last time i buy is that price. ps pump last time also rm250 2nd hand, mine leaked at pump. cam cap is 50-300. depend on brand. i use skunk2 2 and Golden eagle. solenoid gasket is rm45 maybe? i forget.

its definitely leaking if you have top up every 1000km. of you just install new steering rack/etc, then its norml to top up once as the system bleeds air pockets/bubbles out.

depends on driving style. the h22 has low end, so no need to high rev when overtaking, thus save fuel. engine health also a big factor in fc

12km/l if you drive a b16a like old man.

My b20b can also manages 12km/l plus.. if I never downshift from 5th and drive.

I like this model more, but I'm not sure I'm willing to pay the yearly roadtax at RM2130. :/
http://www.mudah.my/HONDA+ACCORD+V6+3+0+VT...IT-20481875.htm

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Mar 22 2013, 02:32 AM

roughly the same i think. depending on what part they change.

d15 is cheap and plentiful virs is just the sohc vtec version. afaik its just more fuel saving and similar power to normal d15.

if me, i'd just get d16 if i can find, or maybe b20b auto full conversion with auto. i drove one recently. not bad for a daily driver.

not b20b vtec la. just b20b stock, no vtec

dub sound? broken bushings. either that or you bottom out your suspension. I'm using monotubes and sometimes got that dub sound also, but front end. I think maybe 10kg up front is too little, but no time to change yet

Launch at 5K. I launch at 2.5k also wheelspin already. Usually I set around 3.5k, max then manage with clutch. Unless B16a lah, B16a, 6K launch.

Currently nothing left to do to my car. Except ricey stuff. Like putting in a tablet to replace the double din. Spotify in Malaysia now, so going to do the geek/nerd shit and run streaming radio.

No point lah bro. Launch control is only for drag launches so you don't have to play with both pedals, just control clutch only.
Also for turbo cars so they can keep the turbo spooled when they launch, NA wise, not very important, although it is.. useful.
Even me I set mine off already. Malas want to layan every single myvi, turbo KE20 or kancils with giant intercoolers already.

Anyway, if you get your car engine overhauled and stuff, then run aftermarket management and get it tuned. I've been running Hondata s300j since I was running B16a. My hondata serial number also below 200 (bought new, when it was still 595USD.

All because I felt that b16a has poor low end with IHE mods.

Now using quad throttle, also no problem because got programmable fuel and ignition maps.



This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Apr 16 2013, 10:32 PM

FD2 got auto?

Kinda got used to seeing FD1 and FD2R, never seen FD2 only. What's the difference from FD1?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Apr 16 2013, 10:51 PM

Everyone sibuk with GE13 hahaha.

Actually nothing to do lol, most users are used to KL/Selangor area, so hard to answer questions we don't know the answer.

Shah Alam area kota kemuning a lot of workshop what?

Should be a few hundred for brand new. Half cut shop is cheaper. Go survey.

Nope, but I suspect your compressor jammed or the a/c clutch is problematic.

Long time never visit guys, but I have problem here.
I saw Tonnka header, one shop here kept old stock. I like the build quality, but I don't like the stepping he put on the header. The welds are damn cun, no complains, but I'm worried about performance and fitment. Google and searching zth, THERE ARE ZERO PICTURES of the header being installed in a honda, SR20, 4G got lah.

Thinking to buy, but the lack of dyno result and overall even photoes of it being installed worries me.

Changing out my mugen header because it's finally starting to crack at the merge collector. (okaylah already used 8 years plus already)

Also, the tonnka header is on par with s2 alpha price, but I think it's a custom tonka design because it doesn't fit any real headers I know of. But didn't look to closely, probably will go check it out again tommorow.

Madman, you know anyone using it with good results? I know the drag header is damn nice and got performance, but this one is the street tri Y header.

Hopefully before afternoon la.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 3 2013, 06:54 AM

already weld the cracks lah, it's the merge collector area where 4pipes meet to one, so if crack inside, nobody know how to see or weld. the outer one only welded. Already 8 years so I don't really upgrading already.

That's the thing about tonnka, they have no bad feedback at all... but also.... no GOOD feedback either.

Saw the header, quality is def. on par with japanese. I just don't like the stepping he put on the header.

Thinking about going with custom header, but $$$$$$$$.. in a big way.

But if I use tonnka, the header would be lasting and the money saved I can do something else.

But damn, sure is tempting to go turbo just about now.

But I need to fix some other wear and tear shit, so no turbos yet.

Going to convert to DC2 rad and condenser with slim fan Not performance related, but MALAYSIA IS HOT. lol

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 3 2013, 11:49 PM

Then try first, and check IACV, usually it's time to replace. Already old. Mine also recently mamposed, but since quad throttle, just delete the IACV once and for all.

Allright, after working my ass off this past month,

Here are my plans for my car with an 8K budget (got 1K to spare, but hopefully can finish it without hitting 9K+

1) headers
2) new retainers (ti retainers might be wearing out, going to convert to steel retainers, contacted crower, they're asking for the inner diameter, so I've waiting for them to get back to me)
3) Tunerview RD1
4) sphericals all around (but probably not going to install yet, since I already ordered the replacement bushes for the skunk2 camber kit)
Going to go with hardrace sphericals (with the dust boot, I have their rear trailing arm sphericals and toe adjusters, and the dust boot really help for reducing wear)

The skunk2 camber kit bushes lasts an average of two years for me, so if yours are around that age, should probably be loose already.

5) front end work, going to make a custom reinforcement bar
6) engine bay shave, closing up all those unused holes
7) A pair of toyo R888s, the fronts almost wearing out.
8) Fidanza lightweight flywheel
9) new Rad and condenser, thinking about chasebays tucked rad, he promised me free shipping since he screwed up my previous shippinng.

That kind of budget can seriously do turbo already, but my car is old, the meter already dimming, the a/c is getting shitty, etc. etc. So maintainance come first.

hope to drive it for another 5 years, then maybe turbo it, or swap to DC2 chassis and turbo it. LOL

Oh, also getting a second set of rims for daily driving, the EP3 17" with normal tires, driving semi slicks everyday is EXPENSIVE lol

Edit: This is also why I'm very hesitant on running extreme cams on my car, and why you shouldn't do it on a street car
Those seat pressures are insane. I'll wear out my valve seat within 100K kms with that kind of seat pressures.

Advantage, you can run 13mm+ cams easily with that coil bind rating of almost 20mm (though I don't believe it's that high, QC wise, I'd believe its 5mm or less than that number.)

Also read the notes, as you can see, installing valvesprings, you actually have to check the springs finish (the part that contacts the retainer), make sure it's clean (I hit mine with a 1000grit sandpaper before install), and dab a bit of rust preventative on the ends (even the ori type Rs have it, you didn't think the paints on the valvesprings were for show, did you?)
Been telling that to my mech for a while, I'm gonna insist it be done on mine when I open the cover to check for Ti retainer wear this weekend.


Oh, and don't install traction bars on your EG, It's expensive and adds weight. Drag racing perhaps requires but not street cars.

I tried the hardrace compliance bush and they do the job well (feels like got traction bars). But due to fitment issues(I had to enlarge the bracket holes to install them, I took them out, and took the OEM bracket stuffed them with Superprobushes, and plonked it back in.

If you guys want, I'll sell it cheap, but only for EG, since the holes are now big enough that it will only fit EG/DC subframes, worry you have another subframe and find that the holes are loose

If not, I'll probably take out the bushes and press them into stock brackets and keep them as spares.

And additionally

Damn,the tonkka header looks sweet


Opinions:
The runners stepping looks weird, and they don't look like EQUAL LENGTH.. (main issue why I didn't instantly buy it) If it even remotely looked like equal length, I'd have bought it on the spot, since the cylinder pairings are at least correct (which some fakes totally fail at)

Wish tonnka did some R&D on this before they marketed it. pity because the workmanship is awesome.

Ground clearance is likely shitty, but probably a full 1/2 inch higher than my mugen 4-1 header.

Toda header looks the best, but $$$$$$$$$$$ 5K+ can go buy custom header from SMSP B21 big header with their custom pan for ground clearance. Shit!

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jun 4 2013, 09:01 AM

try mudah, or exceptional