Because I am not going to use outside tuners? I am exploring the tech more than chasing for power. Seriously if chase for horsepower, might as well go forced induction, in the long run, it is cheaper if you know what parts you need and don't need. NA, the cost of a set of strokers will damn near cost as much as a turbo and it's manifold. The only forbidding cost is the block, but now we have the local Super90 sleeved block which is quite cheap relative to GE, ERL or other aftermarket sleeving.


I just want the impressiveness of having staged injection and COP, and while at it, learn more things about what makes an engine tick. Still 2.5K USD.. GULP!... Mimpi2 dulu.. hahahaa

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Added on November 14, 2012, 4:22 pmI think even the most expensive package is 2.8K, inclusive tuning. The catch is, you have to find your own honda ECU or use back your own. So if you already have ECU, the best option is to buy NEW. Second hand means you have extra stock ECU you won't need.. unless of course, you have a few other cars you can use them in.

If you haven't replaced the caps in your ECU, better do it quick when you put in hondata, when those caps leak, it will cost you to repair it, and in extreme cases, irreparable as the liquid from the caps short out other components that cannot be replaced.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Nov 14 2012, 04:24 PM

can modify auto p30 ecu into manual, remove a couple of resistors on the board. Forgot where tho. reverse if manual to auto, but manual ecu have to add a few electronics to become auto.

The lifespan is about 15+ years according to hondata. I swapped all of mine already back in 2006 (or 2005, I forget), yeah, hondata gave only the main cap, but I swapped all anyway. Next round I am going to use solid caps, since they are said to last longer. That is if I don't get durian runtuh and upgrade to AEM V2.

Depending on damage, usually burn traces can fix by connecting supplementary wires to replace the burn traces, I did a few, still working until today. And, no, I'm not working the automotive kind of work either, just helping out a few friends because I know basic electronics.

Well tomorrow heading down to sunway, fix up a few things, buying a few things also, changing my cat pipe from 2.25 to 2.7 to fit my current exhaust. naturally have to custom, I bought an eterna turbo mid pipe in Ipoh, 2.7 inch going to fix it in, then later retune to see what I can get. Not sure if I can do it this weekend one shot though, since I'll be busy with other work as well. Heck, after the quad throttle install, the tune is only up to 5K rpm for now. just enough for me to drive it around. Hoping to hit 210atw or more, but meh, also not thinking it will, since mine is a 85*87mm engine, only 11.5 comp because I am planning to run RON95 indefinitely. Hoping to set it up so that retain torque until 7.5Kish, so I can up the rev limiter to 9K, currently the power output is too poor that it's limited to 8K (before ITBs, actual rpm limit is 8.5K so I don't bump the rev limiter when shifting, also so that the shift light function in hondata works when set to 8K rpm.)

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Nov 15 2012, 12:52 AM

changed cat pipe. Haven't tuned, but I guess that's where the restriction is, since my idle is now out of whack. It's going to be a LOOONG drive back.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Nov 18 2012, 03:46 PM

Check rear engine mount, mine always breaks for some reason, now only no problem after I used hardened mounts.
Second is wheel bearing, third is one of your arm bushings pecah (either upper, or lower)

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Added on November 20, 2012, 12:22 amBecause I'm a stingy ******* lol, and I only trust three guys to touch my car, my mechanic, rochi and myself.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Nov 20 2012, 12:22 AM

Energy suspension mount inserts, It just inserts into the stock mounts. It is quite stiff but not too stiff. I have to set my idle rpm to 1k or else the dashboard vibrates.

It is like Hasport 60A durometer mounts, but hasport doesn't seem to have this problem. I assume it's because the mount inserts have a slight free play.
Reason I chose this over hasport mounts? RM150.. LOL

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Nov 21 2012, 04:43 PM

Sunway area a few shops selling them. I ordered mine online.
http://www.energysuspension.com/products/M...nt-Inserts.html < like this, but mine is black. It's a set, two framerail mounts and one rear mount. make sure you get the correct mounts, that slight differences means that the wrong one won't fit.

Same here I swapped to DC2 crossmember and rack as well, my mount swapped over just fine. Forgot to check if the DC2 mount is similar to the EG B16a one or not.

You will lose that pushed back on your seat feel a bit (the g force of the car suddenly accelerating). I also was quite surprised that the hard engine mounts made the car feel.. less pickup. But when you see the meter climb..
That's my destroked B20B feel after using hard mounts. Also power delivery feels more instantaneous than with stock mounts.

When switch back to driving EG with B18C with stock mounts, the g force is there, but car doesn't feel fast anymore.

Oh, got budget method also, just zip tie a couple of tubes into the rear mount free space. It works well also. I just wanted something more... normal looking

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Added on November 21, 2012, 10:03 pmYeah, agree with madman, only fool's rock LSD does that.

I don't like full lock locking action. Apart from drag, I don't think full lock LSD is a good thing.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Nov 21 2012, 10:03 PM

Depend on engine, on my car, I can no longer idle at 800-900 rpm, to get zero vibration while idling, I have to idle at 1000rpm. Sounds like not much, but this means my town driving FC suffers (stop and go traffic). Highway is okay though.

Overall, it's a compromise, the better mountings are the new ones with liquid inside, like on the modern accords. that one is slightly variable stiffness. Nobody makes it for old cars though.

Based on my personal preference, I think I'd rather the hard mounts than the stock ones, especially if running B20B. If b16a, or B18c standard, I would say stock is enough.

The stiffness makes all the difference to whether hard mounts are nice or not. If you ever tried the high duro poly bushes (like 92A)... car will vibrate like mad no matter what you do.

Haha.. I told you it would be stiff.

AEM CAI my cousin using, not sure the performance factor, but it's a nice system. But yours doesn't seem to be coated like his.

The TE37V is nice, but got offset can fit into EG? I don't think the offset for TE37V is anywhere near 35-38mm more like -10 to +25 or so.

yes, if you use b16a pistons in the b18c will be in the 12cr region already. cannot run ron95 though, my friend tuned twice, still got knocking on occasion when run ron95, so he is back on ron97..
me i can go 12cr anytime since i have a spare flat valve head, but ron97 still expensive. so staying with sub12cr. still busy with work, no time to play car. itb tuning also not settle yet. huhuhuhu. just tuned to daily drive. half throttle also scary already. lol

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Added on December 1, 2012, 9:40 amyeah, i mod a dc2r muffler so it bolts on to my bordermax mid pipe just add a flange, and extend the tip. cost me rm30. that was before i ran 2.7" though.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 1 2012, 09:40 AM

tuned itb, just not fully tuned, only set up to 5k rpm only. oh, and itb can actually work on standard engine standard ecu. just need to have weber vacuum gauge to balance the ports at idle.

12cr is high enough, compression is based on bore , stroke and piston dish

untuned itb cannot drive la, it will idle like shit. not to mention the power will be terrible. because each itb port will be too rich / too lean. as it flows independently unlike plenum intakes.

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Added on December 8, 2012, 7:26 amcall HM (Honda Malaysia) and ask. if they bringing in mid 2013, you want to wait ah?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 8 2012, 07:26 AM

good oem alternative. might be soft for some, depending on taste.
but if already on koni, just replace it with konis.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 11 2012, 05:14 PM

Ok, I had the car running using ITB for a while using MAP, but the lag was a bit annoying, so went with TPS/alpha-n, Seeing my friend tuning it, damn, it was super difficult, according to him, the TPS based mapping is not as linear as MAP based setting, so it is difficult. I tried driving it on a partial tune at first, even one cell off by 5% will result in bogging/loss of power.

From 21 x 20 cells initial plan, dropped down to 16 x 20 cells, can increase later, but for now, using 16 x 20. Going to dyno next week if possible, the car damn near undrivable last week. This week already settled most issues, at least can drive around.

Oh, and ITB sucks fuel at idle, you do not want to get stuck in traffic with it. 345cc, it idles at 950rpm with 2.5% duty. That's 3 times using regular intake. (O_o), and that's with lean burn at 15AFR. I burned RM50 of fuel just cruising around town.

The Edelbrock Performer X intake goes bye bye.


Oh, the ITB whistling reminds me of a boiling kettle.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 16 2012, 12:58 AM

What he said ^^

There's two versions, the regular and the heavy duty one, the one you see is the heavy duty. (that's what the mechanic calls it, I know it as type R engine mount, and non-type R. LOL.)

Oh, Quad throttle is not easy to drive slow lol. Even 15% is like full throttle already.

Sometimes not ABS, sometimes it's the absorbers already spoil, and ABS on honda EK is not the new advanced system with individual wheel braking, so if both rear slip, still "WHHHEEEEEEE!! Happened to me on genting once, but my own fault, as I braked before cornering, so the weight shift was just too much on the downhill, and so rear end slip, 180degree spin.

And there is a reason why people crash new cars even with the high end ABS, ABS cannot rescue from poor grip conditions, just make the tire less prone to locking under hard braking. ABS cannot rescue from aquaplaning.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 19 2012, 10:31 AM

Usually ABS will give the check light if got issues with ABS. But since it feels different, maybe it's not an electrical problem, but the ABS pump problem. Since you drive the car everyday, if it feels different, it probably is the source of the problem.

no idea on cost, i don't have abs on mine, as for driving with a faulty abs pump, u sure that is a good idea?

I am using hardrace + poly + sphericals on my car, like OEM only, mine already hancur (cracked) on front lower arms, but that's due to me, not the bushes (only my lower control arm and compliance bush is hard race, the rest are either poly or skunk2 poly (upper arm), so the weakest link is the hardrace bushes (don't mix and match like me, I did it because I change the bushes in stages as they spoil, so in the end, the car will be totally poly and spherical). I don't blame the bushes, they're perfectly usable, but beware of hardrace front compliance bushing, the bracket mount they make is not that good, the holes are not aligned to subframe. I had to mod the holes to make it fit, even then it's had to be 'bent' in. The bushing also slightly bigger, so make sure you are prepared for the extra work to make them fit. I had to take out 1mm at one end to fit the bush washer/stopper (it prevents the bush from popping out under hard braking/acceleration)

A few of my friend use also full hard race sans the front compliance bush, no issues.

To make the bushing last, make sure you tighten the nuts on the suspension while the suspension is loaded (means don't use a four post lift, use the ones that lift the tires.)

@Madman, since you are track kaki, I recommend going full poly, they are really great and stiction free. It also makes the suspension much more responsive. The tradeoff? Prepare to lube the bushes with the special poly grease (cost RM25-40 for a big can, I bought mine 4 years ago, still haven't finished using lol) every few years. Some of my poly bushes are 4 years old and still not loose or squeaky. I just lubed mine a few months ago.

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Added on December 20, 2012, 4:17 pmBrake stopper, I have a few set, but only for single layer brake servo only, one cusco and one dunno what brand, but it is red.

My friend has the feel's brake stopper. It's beautiful, but cannot fit EG. >_>

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 20 2012, 04:17 PM