Actually the hardrace is as good as honda oem, and they also have harder version, I don't like the taiwanese/china bushes since they don't fit well, I know hardrace is china made as well, but so far the quality is... acceptable.

OEM ori honda don't sell bushes separately for most part, they sell including the arm. I still remember the rear lower arms costing RM580 each.. >_>
So I don't understand why going OEM is cheaper than hardrace. AFAIK, ori honda OEM is more expensive than hard race.

You'd be surprised at how comfortable ipoly can be.. I wouldn't recommend it for normal people though. If you do poly for steering rack and front end, you won't have free play at steering. This means if you move the steering 5mm-10mm, the car starts turning already. Took me a while to get used having a sensitive steering.

I run 10k and 8k springs on front and rear, with rubber bushes, they are super stiff. But now on poly, even my mom doesn't complain of hard suspension. Poly bushes makes the arms rotate freely (like bearings) so even when using stiffer suspension, it doesn't feel stiff at all... That is... as long as she sits in the front seats. My rear spherical on the trailing arms is a different story. It gives great feedback in slippery condition, but when you drive slow on rough road, all vibration gets transmitted to the rear seat.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 20 2012, 06:45 PM

well, the feedback is great, i tried throwing the rear end on corners, can easily recover because you can feel the grip.
alternatively the hardrace is harder as well., but not as sensitive as sphericals.

@siaunann
whole set should be 2k or so, our car has a lot of bushes. i think total about 16-20 not including steerick rack and shifter bushes,
so suspension only bushes counted.

to put in in perspective, honda oems costs more than 3k for everything.

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Added on December 22, 2012, 2:18 amWhich civic model? There is too little info to go on. FD2R is a great buy now, but the price is not that low, not to mention that it's not comfortable for a family car TBH.

The latest civic on the market now is more comfortable, but anything above 50K is overpriced for me in terms of car, but that's just me.



This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 22 2012, 02:18 AM

If you buy whole set, I think can get cheaper. Only the front compliance bush you should get ori honda because the fitment for it is bad, the bracket is just not that good.

No ideas on dealers in miri.

ah madman is probably right, over here slightly more expensive due to transport, and like I said, the complete set is cheaper as they sell individually is more expensive. but factor in the price to jack out the old bushes and install new ones, probably will be closer to 2K.

@Siauann, yes, the compliance bush is no 7, but the diagram you showed is for EK, not for EG, if you are driving EK, then can get the compliance bush, since it does not include brackets like the EG.

the local protection sticcker is regular vinyl. you can ask sticker shop to do, but make sure they are experienced in sticking large surfaces so you dont get air bubbles

JDM style already outdated lah, now it's about function > form.

Anyway, DRL is standard on USDM, they just make the signal lights into DRL.
That's why got the two tone signal lights for EG.

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Added on December 25, 2012, 1:24 amWell, just tried out full throttle runs a few times. The ITB is loud, at full throttle past 6K rpm, all I can hear is the ITB whistling/sucking air, the Kakimoto 2.7" exhaust also cannot hear already.

Going to do a dyno run and tune the ignition for power hopefully by next week.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 25 2012, 01:26 AM

ayam cabut ecu whem parking now

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Added on December 26, 2012, 3:22 pmmy car look stock, but four R888 on all four corners is a dead giveaway

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 26 2012, 03:22 PM

http://949racing.com/15x8-6ul-nickel.aspx

too bad 4 lugs only

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Added on December 26, 2012, 4:07 pmi dunno how you will u turn with 8" wide wheels. even 25mm overfender can fit, full lock will scrape

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 26 2012, 04:07 PM

Wah 3K also complain rim mahal. Sial!
SW388 style eh?, I just visited a guy's house that day, letting go of his SW388 for 3K+. I never liked the design, so not buying, and with B20B, better go for 16" and 215 width on 16x7JJ. I'm pretty happy with R888 atm, corner like on rails, and with DC2 swaybars front and rear on the EG, SYIOK! It's been a while since I used semi slicks, and this just reminds me of why I liked them despite the heavy tire wear.

I am on 15x7JJ and 42+ offset, tires sit 5mm out of the fenders, now with R888 using -2 camber, so they're tucked back in nicely again since my last RE002.
5 lug offset a bit higher than 4 lugs, putting +38 with a 7" wide wheels on my car will look like old school datsun SSS.

Knuckle clearance is just over 1cm at closest point.
Tire prices now making me move to 16". 15" tires no longer cheap to justify staying under 16".

Anyway, cheap rims what do you expect? Me myselft on P1 Racing first gen, they're cheap and reliable. I've only bent them once, and went to fix it. Still using after 6+ years.
Strongest is still the stock EK9 wheels, I hit the drain wall once when the metal drain grill gave way, didn't even crack, even though the sound was #$%@ scary when it hit.

Now kumpul duit for TE37s 16 x 7.5JJ.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 27 2012, 01:12 AM

r888 have not that bad grip in the wet, heck i am using it in monsoon season lol. the noise is an issue though, it is worse on mine since i removed all sound proofing tar. now depend on carpet and the firewall insulation as sound proofing only. sound like pajero on all terrain tires lol.

try buddy club p1 15x7jj they're not too expensive and clears even a monoblock caliper with the right offset.

comparing to my previous falken rt215 back in 2005, i think r888 is even stickier. still cannot beat re01 and re11 because they are less noisy and less wearing than r888 with almost comparable grip.

or you can consider doing like seeker's eg6. 215 16" front 195 15" rear end lol

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 27 2012, 08:55 AM

haha siauann, if you use semi slicks on standard suspension, it wont be nice. body roll is increased a lot.
anyway, tyre mahal better than some pakai brand new car but cannot afford new normal tires. standard tires now price is ridiculous. no semi like bridgestone re002 selling for rm 350-400? madness. better add extra a bit and get semi. toyo so far cheapest from the quotes i get. kumho naturally cheaper la, but not jepun nah

the tire prices now so crazy, i see even expensive mpv using china tires.

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Added on December 27, 2012, 5:26 pmthat michelin tire 195/55r15 @rm300 is standard only, but the 85 load index 195/55r15 looks to be a good deal. harder sidewalls compared to 82, and only rm15 difference.

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Added on December 28, 2012, 1:15 amfunny story of the day. just came back. i overtook a bmw in fifth gear at half throttle, comes an old scool turbo. i thought very fast so i took the left lane. to let him pass. bugger was at full throttle shifting into fifth i think still cannot overtake. fail turbo ka?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Dec 28 2012, 01:15 AM

no no, bmw is standard, old school turbo. i think ke30 or something. so funny hearing the wastegate whistling ao loud but the car doesnt accelerate.

the meter is kind of untrustworthy. I have a water temp digital gauge and middle can be 90 deg c to 140+c

first check water level in rad, (when it is cold obviously,) then try flush out contaminants from the radiator then check thermostat. i had a thermostat jammed closed on me once. temp climbed up like mad

i ushered new year by washing my quad throttle. rainy season potong stim mau TT with the regulat chaps

cooling system not related to gb. likely just wear and tear. thermostat inside the thermostat housing lah, if it is waxy, then the thermostat is gone case

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Added on January 4, 2013, 2:48 amori coating easily removed by media blasting. btw share the address and cost of powdercoating. i want to powdercoat my wheels too

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 4 2013, 02:48 AM

price range? purpose? if i recommend Ohlin DFV you sure don't want also right?

simply put, if want cheap, go for 2nd hand ori honda, or want to lower the car a bit, GAB SS which is cheap and suitable for the purppse. Top of the line is Ohlin, which costs a lot if for their flagship model. TEIN is somewhere in the middle, although their high end model will be near that of ohlins.
Koni and Eibach combo is also a good choice. It all boils down to HOW MUCH TO BUY?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 5 2013, 09:34 PM

At that price range, second hand ori honda would be fitting, or aftermarket standard shocks like APM/Kayaba/Local brand.

As for workshop recommendation?
Absorber replacement is too easy that the possibility to screw up is low, the only point to care is where the car is jacked up so you don't end up with bent subframe or nicked suspension parts. I used to do absorber swaps myself because it's so easy. A jackstand, a jack, and proper spanner or socket set (not china tools that will round off the nut/bolt ends), probably doable in about an hour.

I doubt you will need to drive around far to find a shop to install absorbers, unless of course, you're also swapping very hard springs that require a spring compressor to remove the top cap of the absorbers.

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Added on January 6, 2013, 2:17 pmGas type is for comfy driving. So depending on purpose, can use either.

BTW how about the powdercoating info? Still interested here. my buddy club p1 first gen wheels are flaking off

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jan 6 2013, 02:17 PM

FUh 15x7 with 185 tires? stretched look. must be from a drift car lol

heh, not sure about auto gb, but manual GB confirm don't have coolant lines into the gearbox. I don't think auto also have, you sure?
The only way you can cool the transmission is with a transmission cooler, since there aren't any water jackets in the gearbox. AFAIK, and btw, coolant lines always have two, one inlet, and one outlet. water go in, but no way to go out, sure hot also.

have to ask the dealer that. I don't really trust the waiting list because I think it's just an excuse to make people pay undertable money to get their one faster.