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 HONDA CIVIC Club V11, My VTEC goes BWAAAAAHH!!!!

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sadako-chan
post Sep 30 2012, 08:05 PM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Sep 30 2012, 12:09 PM)
2 Way Coilover nowadays i think some US$2k can get already
KW V3,Ohlins DFV etc all is two ways
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Hmm.. if USD2K, then it's pretty cheap, but reach malaysia sure about 7-8K also. TEIN's one is def. 10K+, so is Eibach, I didn't know ohlins was that cheap, at 7-8K i think still within the realm of affordability/can consider to buy. Time to racun my friend with the K series EG.. huehuehue

Added on September 30, 2012, 8:10 pm
QUOTE(zenix @ Sep 29 2012, 10:12 PM)
i'm sure you can wait to get to the highway to floor it brows.gif
its like holding back the beast in town driving then releasing it after the toll
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You wish! driving back to Kelantan from JB, three speedtraps on the NSE bro. Kerajaan trying to collect back all those money they give to the rakyat. Can only go 110+ temporarily only even though straight road.

But one things for sure, that 1km stretch after toll, usually confirm no speed traps, so want to hit 180km/h there is usually okay, but after that, back to normal speed limit lah.. ahahaha! icon_idea.gif

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 30 2012, 08:15 PM
sadako-chan
post Sep 30 2012, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(ReidenLing @ Sep 30 2012, 08:19 PM)
i go untill 170km/h can feel like vibrating d lol.... brows.gif
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I don't suffer from that problem, the problem is after 200km/h, everything goes quiet.. scary.. hahaha
sadako-chan
post Oct 1 2012, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(zenix @ Oct 1 2012, 12:02 AM)
u from kelantan?  hmm.gif
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Yep. From kelantan.

Added on October 1, 2012, 3:43 pm
QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Oct 1 2012, 01:13 PM)
After 200km/h is really scary.. cannot wink the eyes..Hehe  hmm.gif
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Haha something like that, whats worrying past 200kmh is that its too quiet, as if any moment can hear ka-boom and have to call tow truck. Lol

Added on October 1, 2012, 3:49 pm
QUOTE(unitron @ Oct 1 2012, 02:29 AM)
Just recently, my car developed problem idling.... dunno why, but the idiling is rough, rpm is very low, sometimes will 'mati engine'. It's even worse with the air cond on.

Most of the time, I've to keep my foot slightly on the accelerator pedal when at traffic lights to prevent the engine from dying.

What was recently done...
- new spark plugs, so shouldn't be plug problem
- valve clerance checked and within specifications

My suspect are faulty O2 sensor (since scan tool return funny readings) but there is no check engine light and if there is a problem with the sensor, it's not a new problem and should not be related to the idling problem. Next suspect is dirty fuel injectors, can the injector suddenly be dirty?

Any ideas anyone? Do give some technical reason why u suspect so and so part.
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What model? Idlilng problems are cause by iacv and tps. If tps calibrated wrongly, also can result in this. If new cars, sometimes o2 or failed cat can give these symptoms.

If obd1, usually iacv or tps. What is your idle rpm without a/c on, what engine and what model?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 1 2012, 03:49 PM
sadako-chan
post Oct 1 2012, 11:04 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 1 2012, 08:10 PM)
ok...time to give u guys a puzzle...

my car has been abandoned and collecting dust since raya eve coz cant move...i think its the clutch... so help me confirm its the clutch..and not the gearbox or something else...

basically i was redlining my car... and at 4th gear 7k RPM... i had my foot off the throttle for a short second as there was a car in front of me..i then noticed that the revs were dropping way too fast (engine didnt go dead) and that "engine braking" feel wasnt there anymore...n when i started flooring again it was just nothing. rev just shoots up.. i then shifted into 5th... n again nothing.

so didnt exactly go pop...

i select any gear... n release the clutch n nothing... its as if its in neutral....
perhaps some of u can gimme ur inputs... when i start the engine..put it in gear and release the clutch...
-1st gear, speedo stays at 0 and its quiet...basically idles like its on neutral
-2nd gear, speedo goes up a lil and its quiet..
-3rd gear, speedo goes up a lil more and makes a very slight noise
-4th gear, speedo goes up a even more and its a lil noisier than 3rd
-5th gear, speedo goes up a even more than 4th and its a lil noisier than 4th

speedo goes up max at about 30km/h.
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That sounds like the clutch isn't releasing properly. Check clutch, it's either the pads, or maybe the clutch pressure spring maybe. Could be that your clutch pad kena minyak, if so, then it's a throwaway item. You can't wash oil of the clutch pads.

Since it happens on all the gears, I think it's likely the clutch.

No clutch burning smell? I assume you can smell it after the drive, it's smells different from brake pad smell.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 1 2012, 11:06 PM
sadako-chan
post Oct 1 2012, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 1 2012, 11:10 PM)
nope...no smell watsoever...not even when i was pushing the car to the side of the road.

but when i got my bearings replaced the mech did say my clutch like cannot support already.
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I think it's time you change to new clutch bro. and make sure installation is right. I kena once a shop changed my clutch and somehow the flywheel got traces of oil, and my clutched slipped really bad at high rpm, i didn't know then, so drove it a while, then I changed the pads, suddenly it feels like it should be. It could be an honest mistake, but well, since it's $$$ to replace, hard to find it acceptable.

Nowdays I already found a trusted mech, and he's the only guy to touch my car now.

I find it hard to believe that 200hp cannot be supported by stock type R clutch or even aftermarket clutch, even my exedy organic is good for 250hp, and that's on the low side, since some claim it can support 350hp.

Still, after using it a while, I don't really like the feel. Might finally go for some twin plate or something with stock pedal and engagement feel.
sadako-chan
post Oct 2 2012, 12:49 AM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 1 2012, 11:23 PM)
whos ur mech? lochi? if so then he should be good...

im thinking of taking them apart first and confirming its the clutch..if its the clutch.. then either the exedy stage 2 or hyper single (depending on which i can afford at the time).

type r clutch has been around for quite awhile.. so i assume its worn out... which is why my mech said wat he said..
anyway... im gonna start sending my car to my friend (jebon71 in mudah.my) fedup with the previous mech already. either him or evotec.
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Well, once you have a steady mechanic, it's a plus because he knows your car history.

Singles with flywheel have quite high pedal pressure,using braided clutch hose can reduce a bit, but only a bit lah.. lol.
I want to run twin plate, but the entry cost is a little high, and for my current N/A setup, waste of money.

Added on October 2, 2012, 12:50 am
QUOTE(zenix @ Oct 1 2012, 08:12 PM)
my friend was telling me yesterday she hates to sit in her bf's fd2r, she feels the bumps making her B cup become C cup, lol! doh.gif
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and that.... IS A BAD THING? laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif laugh.gif

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 2 2012, 12:50 AM
sadako-chan
post Oct 5 2012, 01:34 PM

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What's the pricing like for RS? I'm thinking Goodridge just for the brand.
sadako-chan
post Oct 6 2012, 08:57 PM

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Haha.. normal lah, normal wear and tear, I spend thousands also on repair. But for me, relatively trouble free.

Wheel bearing front is okay, not expensive, the rear ones, if like me, using EK9's one.... super Friggin EXPENSIVE! RM500-600 per side

Added on October 6, 2012, 11:47 pm
QUOTE(siauann @ Oct 5 2012, 01:43 PM)
im getting the rs for my ek4 cost me 4xx sad.gif
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if RS is RM400, I'm going with goodridge, I think.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 6 2012, 11:47 PM
sadako-chan
post Oct 7 2012, 10:58 PM

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QUOTE(siauann @ Oct 7 2012, 09:24 PM)
Omg! Rear bearing so expensive!!!
The last time I enquire goidridge cost double. The price is 700-800. Correct me if I'm wrong
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Seriously? I got quoted a little over 600. But that was a while ago. I need to service my brake master cyclinder so I thought might want to do that along since it's going to be bled anyway... I'll check back the price.

Yeah, the EK9 rear bearing is seriously expensive. the front is cheap though. sweat.gif

You haven't asked about EG9 rear lower arms yet. The price can really SURPRISE you. www. RM580 each. I went like "REEEAAALLY?" when I heard the price.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 7 2012, 11:00 PM
sadako-chan
post Oct 9 2012, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(siauann @ Oct 8 2012, 11:05 PM)
What is the sign of faulty steering rack and power steering pump
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when it leaks it is faulty lo.. haha
Actually make noise abit when turning due to worn rack. Thats it i think
sadako-chan
post Oct 9 2012, 08:38 PM

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QUOTE(unitron @ Oct 9 2012, 05:06 PM)
very hard to have accurate diagnosis for those sound problem.. it's mostly suspect this part, change it, then see if the sound goes away.

I've changed tie rod before... sign of problem is a kluk sound mostly and visible inspection to confirm wear and tear.

I've also changed wheel bearing... sign of problem is the jack the car and spin tyre and feel for vibration method. Cannot remember the sound, but definitely not eek eek..
*
Tie rod easy to check, if it's worn, you can jack up front end, then try to move the tire by hand, if it can move a bit, your tie rods probably worn. It should be pretty solid with no free play

Wheel bearing is hard to diagnose, depending how it fails. In my case, my front left passenger wheel bearing was worn, I had vibration when braking, but no sound at all, I checked brake pads, discs, etc. got nothing!
i drove almost a year before it failed and made squeaking sound while turning. Then I replaced the bearing and the vibration while braking was gone! gg.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 9 2012, 08:39 PM
sadako-chan
post Oct 10 2012, 01:53 PM

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QUOTE(unitron @ Oct 9 2012, 08:47 PM)
Funny, mine also front left passenger wheel bearing... no braking issue, but got a bit of light rattling sound if I remember correctly. Actually I dunno how to even describe the sound accurately.
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I think left wheek bearing is due to the road shoulder potholes. My other three is still okay
sadako-chan
post Oct 13 2012, 08:28 PM

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I AM SO HAPPY!

Friend offered to trade in his quad throttle for my intake/tb. one to one exchange. quad throttle on a daily driver... i must be mad... but YOLO.

I anticipate loads of fun with b20b +itb... problem is to look for itb filters now. toda's filter kit is 1k+, so probably going to check out other brands tonight that is cheaper... wish me luck!

Added on October 13, 2012, 8:30 pm
QUOTE(Dennos @ Oct 13 2012, 07:58 PM)
TNT, INA, 555 are OEM brand that i think better than ori honda. Maybe i am wrong. lolx
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afaik ori honda better since got many sizes and can be clearanced to fit for less friction... but if you don't care for performance... i guess any bearing will do. the engine will run anyway.. amirite?

Edit: oh, talking about wheel bearings.. my bad.. lol

Added on October 13, 2012, 8:37 pm
QUOTE(siauann @ Oct 13 2012, 06:39 PM)
My car dirty don't dare to show here
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haha same here.. only engine bay look okay.. haha outside? hancuuuurrrr....

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 14 2012, 01:04 AM
sadako-chan
post Oct 14 2012, 01:31 AM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 14 2012, 12:27 AM)
pipercross has itb filters....check those out.

and wat itb u getting? wats the size of the tbs? n where n who u gonna get it tuned?

n i think they talking abt wheel bearing...not engine bearing
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45mm. some old japanese brand.
http://www.oer.co.jp/sportsinjection/img/sik.gif
^ looks like that, but I have different throttle cable system on mine

Seems like americans running 50mm for B20Bs, but since this is a daily driver, I think I can safely run a smaller itb without risking restrictions.

Since it's relatively cheap (or in this case, free?) I'm going to play with it for sure.
As for tuning? I got a friend who's got me covered on that end. The ITB will idle like standard car.
In fact, this ITB came off his car. Without opening the hood, you won't know that it's running an ITB.

I'm a bit lazy to think that I might have to retune my car, but what the heck. it's not everyday that can buy ITB for a relatively cheap price.

The only problem is making the original honda IACV work with the ITB, since his car has no idle control. Small matter though, I'll figure something out when I get there.

Owh yeah, I just figured it out that they were talking about wheel bearings.. lol

Added on October 14, 2012, 1:34 am
QUOTE(MR_alien @ Oct 13 2012, 06:24 PM)
EK 300k KM?..wow
thn compare to this thn this looks really brand new
http://www.mudah.my/Honda+Civic+EK+3+A+-17616717.htm?last=1
not sure why the mileage so low though..or just fake mileage
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Normal lah, most of us old honda owners here who bought the car way back has probably touched 300,000km. Myself included, but I don't count, because after 300,000km I changed my engine. rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 14 2012, 01:34 AM
sadako-chan
post Oct 14 2012, 01:39 AM

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QUOTE(zenix @ Oct 14 2012, 01:35 AM)
wow....mebbe tampered or overhauled?
i know is nobody in malaysia does zero mileage restorations.
*
Tampered most likely, or change to low mileage meter. It's not difficult. just sharp pointy screwdriver, remove meter unit, start locating the meter digits. I think it's easily DIY.

The new digital ones are more tamperproof. nowdays I go see halfcut with digital dash, they start showing true mileage numbers when you turn on the key. Japanese cars usually all over 100,000kms one. last time most people kena tipu hidup-hidup by shops importing halfcut in. they all sure reset the meter already. Now since digital, try lah cari halfcut that has less than 50K mileage... I don't think can find though.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 14 2012, 01:42 AM
sadako-chan
post Oct 14 2012, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 14 2012, 02:04 AM)
whos doing the tuning? one thing thats holding me back from ITBs would be the tuners... the local tuners that ive asked keep saying they dont make power with ITBs....n better to go with single TB...

right now the only competent hondata+ITB tuner in the country i can think of is tung chun n thats abit too far...
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Well, the itb that this car came out of is a 85 x 89. 210whp with toda C2 cams. i said told him edelbrock will make less power up top. since I saw the dyno charts of US peeps testing it out. Apparently it makes great low end power.

Anyway, it's a three way swap actually. Guy with B18C wants edelbrock intake, Guy with ITB want ITR intake, and I want quad throttle, so it all works out. lol

Not worrying about the tuning, most people don't know how to balance the ITBs with the old weber carb flow meter, that's why they fail when using second hand ITBs, without balancing the flow of the ITBs, you won't get it to idle properly nor make better power. vacuum log size also plays a part, but since I'm getting the ITB as a set, I just need to install and tune. hahaha. best deal ever.

Added on October 14, 2012, 3:39 pm
QUOTE(siauann @ Oct 14 2012, 12:24 PM)
My 310k km mileage old skool stock ek4 sir (auto)

Front look with sir lips and ek9 titanium head lights
user posted image

The sunroof
user posted image

The side view. Stock height. Stock 15" sir rims. Sir side skirt. Closer view of the ek9 head light
user posted image

The stock 15" with Goodyear F1 directional 5 tongue.gif. look at the gap clearance between wheels and arch haha
user posted image
*
sheet. you are kidding me. this is dirty? if like that my one is a moving dumpster. haha

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 14 2012, 03:39 PM
sadako-chan
post Oct 14 2012, 10:55 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 14 2012, 10:06 PM)
only 210whp? hope its not on a dynojet... coz with single TBs the same setup can push 225-230whp or more
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depends on what kind of cam setting I think. furthermore, its a street car.. with restrictive exhaust. friend says he did it on a whim to see if it can be made streetable or not... guess what? it can be done... which is why i am sooo doing this.

lets see if i can make like +5-10hp through the entire rev range. huhu

210hp on ron 95... hahaha

Added on October 14, 2012, 11:01 pm
QUOTE(zenix @ Oct 14 2012, 02:17 AM)
i thought the digital ones are easier to tamper?
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is it? i see moat halfcuts coming in now, even new ones also 100k + already... last time got 20-30k mileage... sure tipu one

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Oct 14 2012, 11:01 PM
sadako-chan
post Oct 16 2012, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(zenix @ Oct 15 2012, 06:10 PM)
i wonder how the odometer being digital stays alive without power source  hmm.gif
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the wonderful modern technology called bubble memory
sadako-chan
post Oct 16 2012, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Oct 16 2012, 01:33 PM)
yup....
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depend on what model. i am using exedy organics and the harmonics vibration and bite ia kinda sudden
sadako-chan
post Oct 16 2012, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(zenix @ Oct 16 2012, 12:06 PM)
memory = hackable? wink.gif
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hacabke but not worth it
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