Autobots, thus auto insurance.

Decepticons, insurance company lari because they always try to scam and are 'Deceptive'.

Nice, my one is the old generation one, brownish bronze colour like the one in your picture, but mine's darker than that. Could be just the camera lighting though. When I bought it, not many people heard of skunk2 yet. Even less knew them by their old name of Skunkworks.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 11 2012, 06:27 AM

Possibly got leak if like that. Either that or you had a lot of air in your radiator maybe?

Finally got the K20a swap started, found out that the method of grounding fuel pump will make fuel pump constantly running at key on situation. Might have to figure out a way to use a timer to set it to run constantly ONLY after the engine is running.

BTW, K20AR in EG is insane! Low-mid end torque is still not good as my B20B, but it's still a stock ECU compared to my tuned one, if my friend gets a KPRO, I think I can start wearing gas mask before 'makan asap'. LOL

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 13 2012, 03:09 AM

So you don't run out your battery when engine off and using headlights/other electricals for whatever purpose. It's a small matter if you don't daily drive though.

because it works that way in the original system? Not carburetor era with mechanical pumps le
The timer is for priming (pressurizing the fuel pump)

Anyway, contacted Ktuned. If I want it to prime properly, need to run K-pro, and disable immo, and it will convert the E1 into grounded input with 5 secs prime timer. With stock JDM ecu, this feature is unavailable.

Well, this problem with priming is only present when using stock ECU, since you're using K-Pro, you don't have this problem.

I'm not sure if you noticed, but the fuel pump works like this, when on key, engine off, it grounds the fuel pump relay for about 5 secs to pressurize the rail, when you start your engine, the ECU detects your engine is running and grounds the relay indefinitely until you turn your engine off, when engine is running, fuel pump is always running constantly.

Anyway, I think I may be able to use a 555 monostable circuit and two relays (or three?) to create a custom pump prime circuit using a relay to ground the Pin8 on the main relay, and using a secondary to ground when engine is running, triggered by the charge light. Still trying to figure out combine the two so that I save using an extra relay, Another relay is already used a momentary switch, so I have to figure out how to wire the SPDT relay so that I don't have to make it three. Still chicken scratches on paper though. Will see how it works out. Since these are just circuit relays they're the tiny types, not the huge automotive ones.

Nice, but my electronics kung fool not so high level to use microcontrollers. Signals are easy, figured it out, like I mentioned above, total cost of so far not exceed RM30 lol. Took a 555 from another timer I had lying around.

Just want to try out my electronics skills really, the fuel pump running all the time is not a problem actually. Going to try out different sections of the circuit tommorow to see how well it works. Had to convert the switched signal to a 1/2 second relay trigger, so it's actually a few seperate circuits combined together on the veroboard. So going to check each one before connecting them all together with 12-14.x V on car tommorow to see if I got the resistance and capacitance right for the 5 secs relay trigger.

Anyway, I'm not sure, but I heard the PRC ecu can't be K-pro-ed as well.

BTW, just curious what management you run?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 17 2012, 02:17 AM

PNN? Never heard of it lol, using currently is PRC, DC5 ECU.
E-manage eh? What car are you running it on? EG also?
Anyway, from what little I know about the K20a VTC system is that each ECU has it's own VTC map, and it's not similar since different K20a have different VTC limits.

Anyway, not expecting much with this K20a either, my friend just running it stock since it makes B20B power with all stock internals, no need tuning and bother about reliability, just PPAG (put petrol and go) Thinking it will hit 200-210 in stock form.

Running dual O2s as well, with the diag connector intact, so can use OBD scanners as well, just like the new DC5/FD, but on EG body lol.

Already he's talking about ITBs while the car still being built up, but cost of K-pro + ITB not cheap lol. At first say want to run standard, now already going out of control. Dunno who poison lol.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 18 2012, 12:32 AM

Oh, ES model. you modded in a type R from DC5? or just the stock K20a? The stock K20A in the original ES only had VTC, no cam phasing I think. My cousin got the millenium black limited edition 2.0 ES, I think HP around 160ish.

I think the ET is the local CKD model, like EG, local chassis code is EH, EK = EJ, etc.

Oh yeah, cam phasing got, but no cam switching. lol Mixed up the terms

I guessed right then, since the Millenium black ES was the only limited edition car around that seems likely to have a strange ECU where no one else has heard of or used, My cousin's car is still around, but my cousin downgraded to EG, and gave/sold the car to his sister. I remember it was quite expensive during that time, 120K+? forgot. His EG is better equipped though, the ES he just drove around stock.

But if living in KL, I think I also will sell my older gen car, due to the popularity with thieves.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 18 2012, 06:48 PM

Just sharing, i had clutch problems a while too, changed clutch pad, changed clutch covers, flywheel bearing had problem with clutch engagement/slip. Change a few times then finally changed the flywheel, night and day difference. Apparently my flywheel is worn to the limit where the clutch cover isn't putting max pressure on it. So i get slip easily, and sometimes cannot shift in properly. Apparently flywheels do spoil lol.

Still, what a fakap time to quit on you, that clutch

Water pump leakage also hard to spot. Esp the pump gear seal, only can realize when you see dried coolant on pump area (mine is blue, BMW coolant lol, was motul before this), unless you don't use coolant additives, then cannot see the colour obviously.

Usually radiator, but sometimes also heater pipe, the o rings pipe from the water pump to thermostat, sits under the intake. Those are places where it's hard to spot if there is a minor leak.

Also places you might lose water could be the gasket, if you have purging, that might be a cause, but you would also note that your coolant water will be oily or contaminated.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 25 2012, 04:24 PM

As far as i know, the only computerised record is with the SC. The ECU memory only stores error codes, but i have heard they also store up to a weeks driving, but not sure if truth or tok kok.

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Added on August 27, 2012, 10:58 amHello fellow eg owner, i actually did all the above already.. but mine is mostly replaced due to wear and tear

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 27 2012, 10:58 AM

[quote=unitron,Aug 27 2012, 01:12 PM]
3. Disk brake warped --> I think common previously, dunno if Honda already fixed the problem
[quote]

TBH the disc brake warpage I think is mostly caused by driver habits rather than faulty design. I drive my card hard, and usually any vibration comes from failed joint or worn bushings, I've replaced the rotors only once in a decade, and it never warped even after repeated trips up and down genting. Other cars also same. Most people tend to use brakes instead of engine breaking on downhill, thus causing the discs to overheat and warp.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Aug 27 2012, 03:13 PM

Yeah, I always wanted to get brand new volks rim, but at 10k+ a set, that will be a faraway dream. Second hand much more a realistic choice. I can tell you that japanese forged rims can take a serious amount of abuse. I once whacked a kerb with ek9 ori wheels, tire damaged but rim stayed round.. madness!

Oh, finally drove/rempit my friend's k20a eg yesterday. Out of VTEC, the car is disappointing. Seems like it definitely needs to be tuned for part throttle. The gear ratio is short though. Needs a little getting used to

ooh, changing car.. accord? or going non-honda?

sure does, so what family car are you going for next?

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Added on September 7, 2012, 12:07 pmSince on the wheel discussion, these are my favourites wheels

Volk Racing
TE37 No matter low or high offset, these wheels look timeless.
CE28 more spokes, only looks good if 17" and up IMO

BBS
RS - Classic style, only for old school cars.
LM - The design makes 15-16" size look small, but with good offsets like +20 to zero offset, these rims look damn wicked with the thick lips.
BBS RK, CH-R = These rims look huge even at 17" sizes.

Mugen
MF10, One of the classics, don't like the design that much, but the distinct design is
MF8, eight spokes unlike the 10 above, 4 lugs only.

Rims that I don't quite like the design, just a personal thing.
Mugen GP
VR RE30
Regamaster EVOs, SW388

Got lots more of my fave wheels, but these are the ones I remember for now

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 7 2012, 12:13 PM

DC5 bro. Prices getting cheaper now.

Good luck, I have a feeling it's about the VTC, and frankly most of the tuners I've met cannot reasonably explain to me how they are going to set the VTC.

Which year? if the new 2011 model and up, the rear suspension is horrible. For a supposedly 'city' car, it doesn't take bumps well at the back.

My mom is driving one. Now regretting. I told her to get an older K20 Accord.. but nooooo.. she says it's too big. I would have secretly stuffed in K24 while she wasn't looking. Lololol

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Added on September 7, 2012, 6:31 pmWithin VTEC is FASTTTTTTT!!!!!. With stiff mounts, the usual 'G force in your seats' not that strong, but can feel the acceleration. Tested it at the usual roads, can finish the 400m mark at 170km/hish, so quite fast la all things considered, since I shifted slower, I'm still not used to the k20 6 speed gear spread.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 7 2012, 06:31 PM