I recommend:
EK sedan, with EK9 shocks and stock B20B (no mods) is cheap and affordable. Plus, you can share parts with your hatchback.

Since the K20A is a 86mm stroker, I can tell you that it feels like B16A of the old, but in 2litre format. Outside VTEC, hampeh, in VTEC, FFUFUUUUUUUUU....

With tuning, who knows?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 7 2012, 06:51 PM

Good luck with that, a double duty car means you compromise both sides IMO
weight and stiffness.

Apart from the obvious cosmetic stuff

AFAIk
Engine, Suspension setup and self Levelling headlights

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 10 2012, 07:01 AM

difference between the regular FD and Type R

Durable? B16A? VERY.

You mileage almost same like mine, Mine is 320k km+, I changed mine to B20b, but now rebuilding the B16a up back again, but dunno what car to put it in yet, maybe if I can score a cheap EF.

When I changed engine, it was due to the B16A bore getting loose already, have to bore to 81.25mm, but instead of servicing I changed the engine. At that point, the only problem I had was excessive oil consumption, FC still not very teruk, then again, I'm using standalone with disabled o2 sensor, so even with the oil leak, the FC isn't affected very much.

At this kind of mileage, other than the obvious bits like timing belt and water pump, it's time to change the main bearings, get it done at a reputable shop that knows what it's doing, when I took out mine, the main bearings were pretty worn, not enough to cause critical failure, but enough to reach the secondary copper layer on the first main cap. The rod bearings are unbelievable okay though, a bit loose, but within the tolerance range recommended in the honda workshop manual.

Another is the distributor. My old distributor still working, but when I opened it up for servicing, the rotor cracked already, waiting to fail. Lucky I didn't reuse it with my current engine, or else stuck somewhere already.. lol.

The distributor still reusable though, so servicing it back and hoping to reuse with the B16a.

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Added on September 11, 2012, 4:25 pmYeah, the rear undercarriage diffuser, but that' considered cosmetic difference for me.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 11 2012, 04:25 PM

Not really,but if you're going to replace pistons, might as well change the main bearings, but make sure it's clearanced right, or else you will feel the performance getting worse.
The main bearings, each half about RM40-50, so you need a total of 10. so costs about 500 or less sans workmanship. But if you plan to drive it another 5-10 years or so, it's not a waste of money, if you're going to drive it another year or two then change to another car, better just drive as is.

Yeah, but it's missing the self levelling headlights if you noticed, since it requires the lower control arm potentiometers that isn't available with the regular FD. The standard FD headlights also not motorized.

chassis stiffening is doable. I'm debating to do spot welding on mine end of this year. depends on time I have I guess.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 11 2012, 05:00 PM

Was it that expensive? I'm getting quoted 1K for entire chassis.

lol

The EF is nice, unitron, but worried because bodypart expensive like @#$%@#$!
The EG hatch looks tempting,but all 20K+ mostly.. >_>

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Added on September 18, 2012, 7:24 pmC22 Turbo.. huehuehue

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Added on September 18, 2012, 8:58 pmbuys k-tuned fuel filter. RM150

Spends close to 1K to install that said fuel filter.

I feel so stupid

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 18 2012, 08:58 PM

Compression fittings for inlet and return hard lines x2 RM140
Various AN bends and banjos + braided hose - RM300
Fuel regulator (stock one not AN compatible)- RM450
Fuel filter 150ish.



Just for that fuel filter, I spend a lot to accomodate it.. FOR ZERO PERFORMANCE INCREASE.

The ultimate in stupidity, feel free to laugh at my mistake.

My friend using the K-series says he might be interested in buying the whole setup and convert his returnless to return system, so I hope it goes well and I can recuperate my costs.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 18 2012, 11:01 PM

Near Nasty Portflow
https://maps.google.com.my/maps/ms?msid=218...07d71ace8&msa=0

Google maps, you should be able to see his shop at that location. It's along that road.

I don't remember the lot number, but like I said, very near Nasty Portflow.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 19 2012, 10:13 PM

Hah, at least you didn't kena like my mother's city vtec. She drives the car a lot, brake pads for rears already RM350, the front also likely more, have to change soon. To think I run Endless pads at 400ish... the dealership really untung sial

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 20 2012, 01:40 PM

Damn, I always wanted a del sol, but never found one with a working transtop.

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Added on September 20, 2012, 6:05 pmFor me, the best fun and relatively cheap (compared to the supercar category) car at the moment is likely the CRZ with the K20a, the best honda car NEVER made.

Or the Japan GT CRZ, powered by the J-series 3 litre powerplant.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 20 2012, 06:06 PM

Your target too high for your budget.

Try like mine, old EG/EK chassis, brand new monotube suspension & bushes. Having new bushes and monotube suspension makes all the difference in the world. Heck the only time you'll find monotubes are in BMWs and most continental cars that are made by bilstein, this is why you find those conti's very comfortable at any speed. It's all in the suspension and of course, the weight, with civic chassis, it's lightweight means low speed damping is quite poor, not due to the shocks, but due to the car's weight.

A friend that drove my car says it drives like a new car, and steering also quite tight. You can't get distracted driving it, you move the steering a bit, the car turns, you move too much, oversteer.

Of course, this is not something people are easily convinced to do, since the price of monotubes is 10K thereabouts, with the cheapest being the locally made ones like titan and GAB.

Mine is also midrange brand made by Omnipower. I wish I could buy ohlins/motons/tein/bilstein/etc, but those brands are 10K plus plus, quite close to the amount I spent on engine.

As for compression, I can tell you that no matter what people tell you, below 12static compression is the best option for longetivity, you don't get much knock, you also don't purge bubbles through the gasket like most 12+compression engines do. My friend's B18C is making 200hp, but he's also having air purged out through the gasket, requiring him to run an air seperator tank (bubble tank)

After rempit with my friend's K, I'm still in love with my B20B low end torque. It's just fun when you have 60-80hp at 2-3K rpm.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 20 2012, 11:38 PM

I think so, only bilstein I know of that put dust boots on monotubes, most monos run the shaft exposed.

Ah too bad your experience is poor with monotubes, granted, there are negatives to mono-tubes compared to twin tubes. I find them more sensitive, but there is no jarring compared to when I am using twin tubes. The heavier the car, the better it works from what I've tried. When I'm driving alone, the suspension feels a bit stiff, but when I carry passengers at back, it's really comfortable. Using my current one, comparing to my previous spoon twin tubes, the higher the speed, the more reactive the suspension is. The spoon twin tubes just rattles when on rough terrain at speed, unlike the mono-tube I'm using now.

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Added on September 23, 2012, 1:52 amkedai sticker?

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 23 2012, 01:52 AM

The jarring means your damping for the suspension is totally out. I used to have that with spoon shockers. My current one, there's no jarring at all, but it is bumpy, which is why I absolutely love it due to the lack of jarring. I had to tune it for a couple of weeks though, even ran the damping super stiff, but I lost traction at that point, so I backed up a click or two. The most difficult I think is getting the rebound right, as that determines how it bounces back up after hitting a bump. I tried softer setting, but when going over wavy roads, it was very scary, as the car's rear end keep lifting when hitting two or three bumps at one go. So fiddled with it a bit, and finally found one where the rear end doesn't lift. Still not perfect though, but usable for now, maybe might go a click or two lower, but I think it might make the car super bumpy, so I'm leaving as it is for now. The compression damping is quite easy, I set it one - two clicks at a time, and I actually went over the sweet spot, where I lost traction when braking due to the zero brake dive. Brake a bit, instantly tyre lock. . backed it off a couple of clicks and everything was sweet.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 23 2012, 10:53 PM

NGK Power Cables. I'm using that. This is my second set already.

Afaik the cables are maintainance items i change mine after 4 years, regardless of condition. Sometimes people still want so i sell them my second hand set and buy new, so i save up a bit for buying new cables

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Added on September 28, 2012, 12:56 amAnyway, ran out of things to mod already. Now left only swapping cams or going turbo... But as usual $$$$ must also flow fast. Hahaha

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 28 2012, 12:56 AM

Yep, which is why I'm staying far away as possible from those high duration cams. Probably something that makes power in the mid-ranges, which means japanese cams, or Skunk 2 tuner series.

With RON97 at RM3, I'm certainly glad I stuck with 11.8 CR instead of going for 12+.

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Added on September 29, 2012, 3:46 pmOmnipower, they're no longer made though. They were the race versions that come with 3 sets of springs. The street version has one way, the budget version hi/lo has zero damping adjustment.

TEIN also has the HT model that has two way, my friend just sold his set. It's also no longer in production.

Nowdays if two way, must spend 10K+ for a set.

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Added on September 29, 2012, 3:49 pmMine is modded, but daily driven..
Town driving, FC kinda bad. but that's due to it being 2litres, and running idle at 950rpm.
Highway driving, I went to JB and back a few days ago, 1504km (without counting jalan2, didn't keep track), total spent, RM240 (mixed with town driving in JB, which killed the numbers, lol. Means it's about 16 cents per km. About 11-12km/l.. which to me, isn't too shabby considering the engine.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Sep 29 2012, 04:12 PM