ok.. if you never own an auto before.. how about manual? are u driving an eg9 too? is there any known issue/problem that i should know of?

i drive EG Hatch... but sadako drives an EG 4 door (B20) as well as reiden (B16A)...try asking them

chrome can install & tune on D15 or D16 also rite?

Hi bro

My dad has a 1993 (or early 1994, I dun remember exactly) EG 1.6 AT. How much it can fetch now? Fully stock...and I think less than 200K km on the ODO...serious

4 door about 15k or mebbe less...

2 door about 23-25k


check on mudah.my...good indication of market prices.

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Added on July 26, 2012, 4:26 pmif ur on OBD1, if not mistaken possible... gotta check that with the crome tuners though

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Jul 26 2012, 04:26 PM

Wow

No wonder he die also won't sell it

Maintenance is getting more troublesome, cos 99% of parts kena source from kedai potong

Hell Yeah

LOL...lepas makan baru kuat utk pickup mah

B16A manual...??would says not bad la but dont expect too much from manual and the pragg sounds Mine my sis drove it from pusat bandaraya to midvalley there for sch can last about 1 week Ron97 some more...but i warn her not to tarik till 5K rpm My friend in D15 SOHC Vtec Auto not bad too FC...3 Times per month only with Ron97 too...

B16a is not a fuel saving engine. I got roughly 350-450km per tankful n the best days. Driving at sub 3k rpm will save fuel, but with auto, you won't be able to manage it.

with b20b, fuel consumption is better, because i use higher gear and maintain low revs. If i drive like my b16a, fc definitely can throw out the window.

if want save fuel, driving habit most important of all.
D16 is an okay engine, fuel consumption is quote good but oldengine,those rubbers waiting to crack

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Added on July 26, 2012, 9:37 pmMusafir bro

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 26 2012, 09:41 PM

hi sifus..
i have a question actually..
my fren is driving a civic 8th gen, and according to him, one of his headlight spotted a crack(duno big or small), which caused his ori hid to blow (according to the service center guy).
he went to the service center and was told to change his headlights, if not the hid will keep blowing. and total cost 2k+

so, can i get your suggestions? can he repair the crack?
or should he change the headlights set?

need suggestions from u sifus

8th gen is FD is it....??

With what will he repair the crack? at best, can try seal the crack with silicone, then see if his HID bulbs still blow. If no, then yeah, better he replace the headlight, and the SC guy is right. IF after sealing the hole but it still blows, it must be some other problem already no?

What's the difference between EK9 (original) vs EK4/EK3 besides the engine? strengthen chassis perhaps?

Yes, strengthened chassis. The ek9 also gets a beefier rear subframe so it can use bigger ARB

how bout EG bro...different between EG9 ( real ) and normal EG ...??

Would like to ask. My 1992 Civic EJ1 has an engine with the marking ME-216 what I do know that it is a 1.6l engine with EFi. I would like to know what family of engine it belongs to as most of the Honda engines start with either D or B.

Should this engine need to be retuned for RON95 as well ? I do notice quite a big difference in the acceleration which is much smoother running on RON97 and also much less engine noise.

No such luck for EG9. EG9 is just a luxury spec for regular EG.
The only one that gets the reinforced treatment other than EKs is the DC2 Type R vs the normal one.
Lucky for EG owners, most DC2 parts carry over to the EG.

EK9 is closer to track car to EK3 sports hatch

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Added on July 29, 2012, 11:50 pmIt's a D16 non vtec, local spec. The engine code is different. not sure why.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 29 2012, 11:53 PM

thats a mystery that one...not much info on the ME series engine... ive tried searching many times and no such luck... but everytime i see an ME engine being mentioned its always by a malaysian.... some even assume its available in malaysia only... dunno if correct or not

if ur engine isnt pinging then i guess no issue la... can go straight to RON95.... but yeah...our RON95 pretty much sux...even in my ex-kelisa there was a significant difference.... i even get extra 80km per full tank with RON97 as opposed to RON95

I'm running RON95 for my KL trip last week. Had to retard 2 degress of the entire map.
Power a bit less, but still acceptable.

D series is tuned for RON95 from factory. If you bought the car new, you would have notice the Minimum RON95 sticker at the fuel filler cover there.

(For B series)
If you don't have management, you can retard your distributor also. This used to be a common thing during the old car days. They have a plug at the distributor you can change on the volvo, depending if you run higher octane or not. What it does is reduce the timing.
If you use a digital timing light (the adjustable type) you can try set the idle timing to 14 from the original 16

Else, pakai bantai and retard by guestimate.

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Added on July 30, 2012, 12:28 ammy old engine when first bought the car also ME engine, but it's really the D series. Just without vtec. Parts interchangeable, including the ECU.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 30 2012, 12:30 AM

oh i see bro...

B16A is fun. If you fix it up, 170-180hp is good enough for lightweight EG.

Even when I had it stock, I ran management and solved the torqueless low end of B16A, which is really bad once you run open pod with big headers and 2.25" exhaust.
My hondata serial number is in the 100 range. Lol, I saw box recently already 9000+ units sold in MY/Asia. Feels so old mang.

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Added on July 30, 2012, 2:04 am@Madman,
The Ktuned billet B series shifter already got at Chris's place, Samurai Racing and N1.

Looks solid, but I already like the 25mm throw on type R shifters.

This post has been edited by sadako-chan: Jul 30 2012, 02:04 AM