I don't think it is a high end pump because the contractor told me it is noisy but it is ceramic and durable. I fell that he is trying to slaughter me by charging that price. :'(

Difficult to find a good plumber these days.

The bathrooms, I am planning to run exposed pipe so it is easier to fix if there is any problems later. Don't want any hacking work done. Would class 6 be sufficient? I am recommended to use class 6 instead of class 7. He told me the downside of class 7 but I forgot.

You can buy on your own and pay plumber for workmanship only. The pump shop can even advise you on your requirement. Which is more suitable for your house. Plumber probably not well verse on this.

Dear sifus,

I am planning to install a water pump (scala2 to be exact) on an open slab area where my water tank is. Since I need to pull a new wiring to power the pump, what size of wirings should I ask my contractor to provide? Can the wiring be shared? How the pump is typically connected to the wiring? 13A? 15A? Hardwired?

On Jan, i installed a water tank and placed a pump because water pressure was very weak before.
Just an off-brand pump that just works.
The setup is like image, with no check valve (CV) installed.
Currently only V1 is closed, while other was open.

But lately, it seems like the water pressure has been quite good.

So, I just wanna confirm...

1. Can I also open CV1 (mainly use water from main, and I'm hoping that the pump only kicks in when the pressure is low)?
2. I should install a check valve at CV1 to prevent backflow, right?
But should I also install one at CV2?
Can check valve withstand pressure from the pump?

Thanks

Hi All,
just installed 1 water pump at car porch which direct put on floor (concrete based).
Setup as: Water meter -> water filter -> water tank -> water pump - >housing piping.
It is noisy whenever using water.
Any idea on how to reduce the noise?
I read through some comment that shall put a anti-vibration mat between floor and the pump. Is it effective way?
btw, the pump is "TANIKA"brand which introduced by the plumber contractor.

Hi zheilwane, can pm me price for good water pump for double storey house with 3 bathroom (2 upstair and 1 downstair)?tq

A water pump contractor came and suspect old fuses and relays (in the control panel) is causing the pumps not working. Can I buy the fuses and relays separately and ask any electrician to replace them, or the systems are too complex and requires water pump contractors?

Can take a pic of the control panel insides to see.

Thanks for the fast reply.

This is the panel box. Two pumps automatic alternate one after another.


The 5 red arrows are the relay indicated to be the problem (of old age failing).

This post has been edited by ashburn98: Jan 4 2021, 10:06 PM

Sure you can replace the relays, by yourself even. They are all pull out and push back in, without any screw or captive mechanism. Just make sure you get the right voltage and contact rating for the relays. Best way is to pull out the relays and see the ratings. All pretty standard items. The Cikachi floatless level switch is here

Edited to add : Have you checked that the metal rods in the tank are not corroded and sending back a correct water level signal to the CKC C61F-GP?


This post has been edited by stormer.lyn: Jan 5 2021, 11:54 AM

The Cikachi link is very helpful and I am checking out Relpot relay specs sheet as well.

This below is another picture focused more on the wires. The contractor didn't mention corrosion, so probably not.



The quirky problem is when you turn the selector switch either way and turn it back, the system works fine and both pumps works (for a few days or one week) and then revert back to not working. Turn the selector switch again and it works again for a few days. There is no power trip. This is the reason the contractor speculate 'faulty old relays' as the cause.

Lots of relay suppliers, doesn't have to be the exact brand. Usually the pin-outs of relays are standardised.Did the contractor check in the tank? The CKC item uses metal probes to sense the liquid level, and these have to send the correct signal for the circuit to work. Or maybe the CKC is the one faulty, and every time you change the selector, it resets.
You could swap the relays around, but I doubt the relays are the problem. You should confirm it by going to manual mode and then manually start and stop the motors with the "start" and "stop" buttons. Does it run properly manually? If it does, then the wiring and the relays are good. I'd look at the timing after that. I wonder what items LR and TD are for?

Any further thoughts I have will need me to go there with my meter(s) and start probing the circuit. Can't do that because although I'll have no job at the end of this month, I still have it right now! Anyway, good luck.

This post has been edited by stormer.lyn: Jan 5 2021, 10:14 PM

Hi Zheilwane,

I just bought and install Scala 2 at my double storey house with 3 bathrooms. However, if I turn on the shower at the 1st floor and one of the bathroom at the second floor, the pump run > stop > run > stop until I turn off the tap. The problem however didn't happen at the master bed bathroom where it is directly under the water tank (water tank is located at ceiling inside master bedroom).

The pump also shows error No.3 (Leakage). I've checked for sign of leakage in the piping but no leakage found. Even if there is, the pump might have been running when no one is using the toilet/bathroom.

Any idea how to solve this?

Appreciate your expertise

Thanks

weird but if u say master ok jus other bathroom got issue then not pump is piping issue.

no3 = run more than 30 minutes. so only way go up to the pump, turn off ball valve c pump stop or not. Most likely piping issue, u nd to ask ur plumber to go check

im diy'ing to put water pump on house water tank.
most i see the plumbing diagram need to put "control bypass" between in and out from pump. is that necessary or can be omitted?
and 1way valve between tank and pump inlet, necessary too?