lol...I dint notice this...and I don't start up my air-con while the signal of cold engine is on...

---

Added on September 7, 2011, 9:27 amBro, wtm0325, are you DIY the soundproof urself?? Very big different??

This post has been edited by gjtan: Sep 7 2011, 09:27 AM

I got a questions about the Alarm System.
Normally, when we lock our car it will shut down the lock &
there is a Lights blinking that shows the car is armed.

I saw there is only 1 light in the meter blinking (red), is this the indicator of my alarm is armed?

Buy my concern is, even I just switch Off the engine (while I'm still in the car), the light already start blinking. I was thinking, I'm not even press my alarm to shut the door, it already start blinking.

So, is this the Alarm Armed indicator? If not, where is the indicator?
or this car has no indicator at all?
Then, what is this light blinking about ???!!!

QUOTE(tyenfei @ Sep 2 2011, 10:05 PM)

you bought it then change at SC ??

Change at my dad's garage my dad owns a garage shop at my hometown, when balik kampong go kacau my dad

QUOTE(Eithanius @ Sep 3 2011, 08:30 PM)

Now that's the first. Car jerking forward instead of backward. Is it easily reproducible...?

I too had this kind of problem before especially 10k-20k, after 20k service changing the gear oil and new plug the car doesn't jerk so frequent, will keep in view

QUOTE(Eithanius @ Sep 4 2011, 10:43 PM)

Btw, what's with the Denso Iridium Spark Plug on the first post...?

---

Added on September 4, 2011, 10:45 pm

Too big and underpowered...

Normal Spark Plug cost ard RM52 at P2 SC which can last for 20,000km, iridium spark plug can last for 100,000km which cost RM180 at P2 SC. Buy at LYN garage sales cost you RM155, do the maths yourself

QUOTE(Eithanius @ Sep 5 2011, 12:07 AM)

Curious though... I read from here that more torque can be achieve by increasing the height of the gas pedal.

Has anyone else done this minor mod before...?

This can be done, suggest you ask foreman, but I can teach you oso if you want to

QUOTE(runemastertan @ Sep 7 2011, 09:08 AM)

Ok, new problem. I heard this a few times, before that i thought it was my imagination as I was unable to reproduce it. Now i can reproduce it, althought not so frequent.

1. When engine is cold, with aircon dial at off, start the engine.
2. quickly switch on the aircon to 2 or 3, you'll hear a sound like when the engine is already running, we try to turn the ignition key again.
This is annoying, and it sounds like something is going to break. Anyone got this before?

Yes my alza do have this symptom. No need quick switch to 2/3, just switch on the aircon immediately from 0 to 1 when car starts (if engine is cold). The compressor sound is like very hard to breath, not sure if this normal? What says about Myvi user?

QUOTE(zsnipes @ Sep 8 2011, 12:25 AM)

I got a questions about the Alarm System.
Normally, when we lock our car it will shut down the lock &
there is a Lights blinking that shows the car is armed.

I saw there is only 1 light in the meter blinking (red), is this the indicator of my alarm is armed?

Buy my concern is, even I just switch Off the engine (while I'm still in the car), the light already start blinking. I was thinking, I'm not even press my alarm to shut the door, it already start blinking.

So, is this the Alarm Armed indicator? If not, where is the indicator?
or this car has no indicator at all?
Then, what is this light blinking about ???!!!

Mine only blinks when lock, double confirm later

This post has been edited by wtm0325: Sep 8 2011, 04:21 PM

RM 155 + RM 20 for installation already RM 175...

You kat mana, me ask you do for me...

It sounded quite scary. I thought I was the only one. I am not sure it is even from the compressor, but it sounds like the sound came from the driver's side in the hood.

Just tested.
Once Switch Off the Engine Key, the ALARM LED Armed (inside the meter area) indicator started to blinking. Then move outside the car & press the Alarm remote, it is also blinking the same speed.

So, is the Alarm Indicator faulty ?

To correct my previous post, mine is the same, so no worries

Increase pedal will increase torque... that is a first...quickly patent it and sell it back to Toyota/P2 for lots of money...

Too bad, I did not think of such first otherwise I will also patent it... haiya... opps...I just realise my brain is still functional...

hahaha very sarcastic post!

Some of the Alza are underpower becoz the string that connects to engine (I dunno wat u guys called) are too long. It is not meant to increase the torque from the specification, but to make the car more responsive.

so bila mau appointment...?

ur car underpower mei?

superbly underpowered after driving a 2.4 camry...

even my sis' myvi feels more powerful...

Estimated 4 hours - 3.50 hour test drive from OUG to Genting 2 flow, 10 min for the mod

Labour Charge: Genting Starbucks Hot Chocolate

This post has been edited by wtm0325: Sep 14 2011, 02:07 PM

like that have to change brake pad dy... coming down from genting either brake rosak or gear rosak again...

updated first on how to adjust pedal height

Here's an updated list of problems plaguing my car:

1 Wind sound in excess of 70kph = Problem recurs

2 Loose number plate on the rear trunk door. Rattles when close = Problem recurs

3 Engine noisy inside cabin when speed in excess of 110kph = No solution provided, sound proofing issue

4 Steering veers to the left, slightly off axis at straight road = Resolved

5 Roof noisy when rains = Resolved but not satisfactory

6 Soft horn sound = No solution provided

7 Power window on driver side not smooth when in operation, jerky motion = Resolved

8 a) Gear shift from 3rd to 4th gear not smooth = Problem recurs
b) Reverse gear sometimes produces sudden strong vibration on car = Resolved

9 Low whining/whistling sound when engine is idle = No solution provided, problem not present upon testing

10 Cabin light not always turned on when car doors are opened = Resolved

11 Rattling sound of loose part near driver seatbelts on B-pillar = Problem recurs. Fixed outside

12 Rattling sound on dashboard = Problem recurs

13 Rattling sound from rear seatbelts when going over uneven roads = Resolved

14 Bluetooth not working = Resolved

15 Long distance/high speed braking not smooth, car jerky. No hard braking = Problem recurs

16 Dirty front rims (possibly caused by low-grade brake pads) = No solution provided, lousy brake pads

17 Noisy tyres = No solution provided, supplier sucks

18 Leaking water from engine compartment and exhaust, when air-cond turned on = Resolved

19 Air-cond takes time to cool cabin, not cold enough = Not solved. Cabin still not as cool as before

20 Soft knocking/tapping sound on engine when accelerating between 1 - 1.5k rpm after driving for some distance. Noise is also present when car is stationary and engine revved at the same rpm range = Problem recurs

21 Air-cond knob can get stuck between "1" and "2" = No solution provided, common problem

22 Rubber frame on left side front door does not fit perfectly = Resolved

23 External door handles too stiff = Resolved

24 Scratches on surface of car on every sides = New problem from Service Center

25 Rattling sound from third row seat, loose board on back of seat = New problem

26 Stationary and speed brake pedal vibrates when front wiper is running = New problem

27 Steering rack vibrates and noise on uneven roads, especially when turning = New problem

28 Front suspension noise when going over speed breakers = New problem

29 Loud burst sound, kinda like farting or sneezing sound when turned on air-cond. Happens when the car strolls for about 2 minutes from a minute-long engine warm up with fan running at level 2 low cooling factor. Can feel the car vibrates with the burst sound = New problem (So far only 1 instance)

This post has been edited by Eithanius: Sep 18 2011, 01:20 AM

1 - same, no time to mod yet
2 - not sure how it loose, can snap some pic?
8 - does changing other brand petrol helps?
12 - dashboard which side?
15 - might be rotor bengkok, u always langgar lubang?
19 - try clean cabin filter, very easy 1
20 - i think is the soundproof no good so u can hear
24 - P2 staff revenge
25 - quite curious how and where it sounds?
26 - no understand?
27 - this 1 is common, no solution

If I am not wrong, the red light usually indicate that the immobiliser part of the alarm is on. Do check if your car has an immobiliser.

For Honda cars, you will get this red light blinking due to the arming of the immobiliser. You do not need to turn on the alarm.

2 - loose rattling sound when closing trunk door
8 - it does not... Alza forum member say it may have something to do with tightening the pedal string... :blur:
12 - dashboard inside
15 - no wor, perodua changed rotor, still the same
19 - how...?
20 - no, that sound should not be there... something is wrong with the engine...
24 - f***ers
25 - i'll take pics
26 - put your leg on the foot brake pedal, then trigger the front wiper...
27 - bising SC again...

BTW, how is the average FC for alza? I'm looking between this and the Myvi 1.5.

My wife Myvi EZI now is going to be 6yrs old soon and FC is about 9-10KM/L or RM50 for 250km. 90% for residential area drive ie to/from school and lots of idle and waiting time. Everyday almost 45m to 1hr waiting. If I drive it to highway, it get pretty decent about 12km/l.

So if the Alza able to hit above 12km/l on normal city drive, at least it should be better than Myvi 1.3 otherwise I will get the Myvi 1.5

Eithanius,
As for all the problem listed for Alza, I say a lot of them you having wrong expectation....You will most of the problem even for 200-300k car...