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 PROTON SAGA BLM & FL CLUB V13

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TSxshiro
post Jun 21 2011, 04:35 PM

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QUOTE(LizStephenie @ Jun 21 2011, 03:58 PM)
my dad said that he could not stand me keep complaining the awful FC then took my car to his friend's workshop to tuned it for a better FC.

i did not know that we can tune the car for better FC also until my dad told me the story...

so tuning a car for a better FC is nonsense?
*
actually there is no need for tuning (tuning here means force the ecu to read certain setting, it wont last for a long time)...it should adapt to your driving style..if you are gentle on the throttle, and driving at optimum speed (90kmh and no less or higher), less stop and go..release the throttle when going down a slope...it should have better fc..

This post has been edited by xshiro: Jun 21 2011, 04:39 PM
LizStephenie
post Jun 21 2011, 04:41 PM

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Previously before resetting my ECU, I always rev till 3k RPM during pickup and then stay at 90-100km/h most of the time because the road here in CY wrists is like the north-south expressway. If u drive below 80km/h u'll feel like a snail. Haha...

After resetting my ECU, I only rev till 2.4k RPM during pickup and always stays at 90km/h tops. FC is still as awful as before. 1 tank can only go till 280km nearly dry up the tank already. The light starts blinking at 230km and I drove another 50km more. >_<

Advice?
TSxshiro
post Jun 21 2011, 04:46 PM

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QUOTE(LizStephenie @ Jun 21 2011, 04:41 PM)
Previously before resetting my ECU, I always rev till 3k RPM during pickup and then stay at 90-100km/h most of the time because the road here in CY wrists is like the north-south expressway. If u drive below 80km/h u'll feel like a snail. Haha...

After resetting my ECU, I only rev till 2.4k RPM during pickup and always stays at 90km/h tops. FC is still as awful as before. 1 tank can only go till 280km nearly dry up the tank already. The light starts blinking at 230km and I drove another 50km more. >_<

Advice?
*
what brand of fuel?
LizStephenie
post Jun 21 2011, 04:48 PM

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Always using Mobile or Esso.

Before resetting the ECU, tried 3 tanks of petronas primax95 extra. No improvement or whatsoever on the FC.
SiuYi
post Jun 21 2011, 04:59 PM

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LizStephenie
how many services have u done?
LizStephenie
post Jun 21 2011, 05:05 PM

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currently waiting for the 55k service...
pravred
post Jun 21 2011, 05:07 PM

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hey peeps i wanted to change my front brakes due to poor braking power but few days back i sent my car to car wash after 2 years of self washing and asked them to give it a through cleaning.They used the jet and cleaned the body and wheels.Now i feel the car can brake better,it is possible due to the washing and today i decided to increase the tyre pressure to 220psi,the car is more comfy to ride now.for now i save money on brake pads biggrin.gif
Cloudx
post Jun 21 2011, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(LizStephenie @ Jun 21 2011, 04:41 PM)
Previously before resetting my ECU, I always rev till 3k RPM during pickup and then stay at 90-100km/h most of the time because the road here in CY wrists is like the north-south expressway. If u drive below 80km/h u'll feel like a snail. Haha...

After resetting my ECU, I only rev till 2.4k RPM during pickup and always stays at 90km/h tops. FC is still as awful as before. 1 tank can only go till 280km nearly dry up the tank already. The light starts blinking at 230km and I drove another 50km more. >_<

Advice?
*
Ur BLM is auto? Mine will blink once reach 270km but normally i'll push till 330km only refuel.
sam9557
post Jun 21 2011, 05:28 PM

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QUOTE(LizStephenie @ Jun 21 2011, 04:48 PM)
Always using Mobile or Esso.

Before resetting the ECU, tried 3 tanks of petronas primax95 extra. No improvement or whatsoever on the FC.
*
I would suggest to use 10W-30 or 5W-30 engine oil. My thirsty oto unser use this kind oil, give resonable fc. I'm will used this light weight oil on my 1.6fl.
LizStephenie
post Jun 21 2011, 05:40 PM

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QUOTE(Cloudx @ Jun 21 2011, 05:20 PM)
Ur BLM is auto? Mine will blink once reach 270km but normally i'll push till 330km only refuel.
*
yep. mine is auto. mine always blink at 230km+-. >_<

QUOTE(sam9557 @ Jun 21 2011, 05:28 PM)
I would suggest to use 10W-30 or 5W-30 engine oil. My thirsty oto unser use this kind oil, give resonable fc. I'm will used this light weight oil on my 1.6fl.
*
oic. i dont know much about engine oil. but someone here recommend that we use the 10W-40 on our BLMs...

is there any downside by using the 10w-30 or 5w-30 oil? if not i would request the SC use that oil on my next service and see how it goes...
sam9557
post Jun 21 2011, 05:49 PM

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QUOTE(LizStephenie @ Jun 21 2011, 05:40 PM)
yep. mine is auto. mine always blink at 230km+-. >_<
oic. i dont know much about engine oil. but someone here recommend that we use the 10W-40 on our BLMs...

is there any downside by using the 10w-30 or 5w-30 oil? if not i would request the SC use that oil on my next service and see how it goes...
*
10w-40 olso thick oil. The measurment it last no 40 which ist refer as 40 weight oil at operating temp. 30 weight oil is better for fc & performance. Small car as viva & kancil use this type engine oil. This not harm your engine unless your engine was high milage as 200k km.. Just try it. Petronas syntium offer 5w - 30 / 4liter for rm97.00
LizStephenie
post Jun 21 2011, 06:09 PM

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QUOTE(sam9557 @ Jun 21 2011, 05:49 PM)
10w-40 olso thick oil. The measurment it last no 40 which ist refer as 40 weight oil at operating temp. 30 weight oil is better for fc & performance. Small car as viva & kancil use this type engine oil. This not harm your engine unless your engine was high milage as 200k km.. Just try it. Petronas syntium offer 5w - 30 / 4liter for rm97.00
*
icic... can i just mention to the SC that i wanted to use what oil during service or i have to bring my own oil if i wanted to use certain type of oil?

btw, whats the difference between the 10w-30 and the 5w-30 oil? does the 10 and 5 in front mean anything?
zeone
post Jun 21 2011, 06:22 PM

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Fr wat I kno, the W value is the viscosity of the oil in Winter(W). Eg 5W is SAE5 in Winter conditions.
Since we don't hv winter here, this number has no relevance.

So wat's important is the SAE value of the oil at our ambient temperature. User Manual shows SAE50.
However, Proton SCs use SAE40...a thinner grade. Maybe cos of complaints recd in feedback of high FCs.

Since BLMs are still considered reasonably new, using a slightly lower viscosity oil poses no harm.

The final decision is the car owner's... wink.gif


ericmaxman
post Jun 21 2011, 07:27 PM

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Ah, one more factor contributing to bad FC is the rear drum brake. If its jammed, it will affect your FC, not by much, but it does affect.
zeone
post Jun 21 2011, 09:17 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jun 21 2011, 07:27 PM)
Ah, one more factor contributing to bad FC is the rear drum brake. If its jammed, it will affect your FC, not by much, but it does affect.
*
Yup, that's 1 more of many factors that may affect FC.
Besides the usual "Right Foot" & the above quoted, Factors may incl :
a. Quality of petrol used eg possible adulteration...natural or otherwise;
b. Disc pads & disc calipers functioning;
c. Road conditions;
d. Wind direction;
e. External Accessories & mods affecting car aerodynamics;
f. Wheels & Tyres esp non-standard/stock ones;
g. Air Filter - type & condition;
h. Exhaust system...type, age, condition, mods, etc;
i. Condition & Functioning of all moving parts associated with motion;
AND lots more... wink.gif

So let's enjoy our ride...& be less concerned abt variations in FCs of imdividual cars...

Happy Motoring, Everyone!!
limadekad
post Jun 21 2011, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jun 21 2011, 07:27 PM)
Ah, one more factor contributing to bad FC is the rear drum brake. If its jammed, it will affect your FC, not by much, but it does affect.
*
how to check whether jammed or not?
ericmaxman
post Jun 21 2011, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(zeone @ Jun 21 2011, 09:17 PM)
Yup, that's 1 more of many factors that may affect FC.
Besides the usual "Right Foot" & the above quoted, Factors may incl :
a. Quality of petrol used eg possible adulteration...natural or otherwise;
b. Disc pads & disc calipers functioning;
c. Road conditions;
d. Wind direction;
e. External Accessories & mods affecting car aerodynamics;
f. Wheels & Tyres esp non-standard/stock ones;
g. Air Filter - type & condition;
h. Exhaust system...type, age, condition, mods, etc;
i. Condition & Functioning of all moving parts associated with motion;
AND lots more... wink.gif

So let's enjoy our ride...& be less concerned abt variations in FCs of imdividual cars...

Happy Motoring, Everyone!!
*
a. Petrol brand is also important.
b. make sure they're not rubbing
c. i'd say more towards traffic condition
d. may not affect much
e. bodykits? again, this is debatable. so the fc for a normal saga differs from a saga SE?
f. weight+size affects, agreed.
g. agreed. mine's due for a change already. lol
h. agreed.
i. drive shaft? timing belt? etc etc does play a role, but very minimal

i'd still stick to the main one, which is your driving style

icon_rolleyes.gif

QUOTE(limadekad @ Jun 21 2011, 09:20 PM)
how to check whether jammed or not?
*
If you happen to send your car to service, jack it up, then try to spin the rear wheel.
zeone
post Jun 21 2011, 10:10 PM

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Yup, ericmaxman...agree with yu on those points of yrs! Altho some effects are minimal, but...as we all kno, a bit here, a bit there, can finally give rise to those small variations in FCs between individual cars. wink.gif

As mentioned b4, even diff pumps at same petrol station may deliver diff amounts of petrol on auto-stop.
Even if we fill to brim till visible, there may be diff gas/air space trapped in tank... Etc, etc.

Most reliable way to chk/measure/compare FC between 2 cars is to :
1. Fill up container with exactly 1L petrol from same source;
2. Directly connect to engine intake manifold;
3. Drive car along a specific track till car stops;
4. Compare distance travelled.
ps. Did I miss out any steps? Mayb so... wink.gif


Added on June 21, 2011, 10:18 pmRe bodykits, probably so.
Why? Don't think most bodykits are "wind-tunnel" tested for good aerodynamics... More of aesthetics! Haha! rclxm9.gif

Frankly, FC is a very open debatable issue...haha! Can write books abt juz that!

PEACE. smile.gif

This post has been edited by zeone: Jun 21 2011, 10:18 PM
goohtj
post Jun 21 2011, 10:25 PM

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for blm drum brake, don't pull so hard. you are not driving bus/lorry. just 80% will do, says my mechanic. if auto, usually need not pull handbrake on level parking. learning from my mistake. mine rear pad + pump replaced at 30k km.
R'des
post Jun 21 2011, 10:26 PM

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my personal opinion is right foot also play a big factor in FC.

I tried 2-3k rpm rev only for 31.5l of petrol i got 336km. 100% city auto.
tat is 10.6km/l

where i used to rev 3-4k rpm rev, 26.3l i got around 260km only max. which is 9.88km/l biggrin.gif

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