QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jun 10 2011, 09:08 AM)
Good4yu, eric! Onli hope my IAFM not kacau...so many years of experience liao & Proton shld hv overcome that "simple" prob, rite?
Ok...me also reporting in...!!
PROTON SAGA BLM & FL CLUB V13
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Jun 10 2011, 09:47 AM
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#1
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Jun 10 2011, 09:44 PM
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Jun 10 2011, 10:22 PM
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Jun 11 2011, 07:27 AM
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Jun 11 2011, 04:17 PM
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#5
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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jun 11 2011, 12:59 PM) if 100% highway, definitely possible Gauge indication is juz a guide... Dun trust it too much! LOL~ but i am surprised at the amount of petrol thats still inside Btw any1 installed Rear Anti-Roll Bar for BLMs/FLs? Any noticeable improvement? Pls share... cos Rear ARB (altho also 2 pt bar) is >2X cost (RM350) of Front Strut Bar! |
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Jun 11 2011, 04:53 PM
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QUOTE(omara86 @ Jun 11 2011, 04:28 PM) My car installed with front strut, front lower member brace bar, and rear ARB... effect was so syiok, taking curve 140 - 150 km/h is juz a kid play, so sharp n stable... If u wanna install 1 by 1 then follow this order: Tks a meg for sharing yr xperience with those bars! 1) front upper strut 2) front lower member brace 3) rear lower ARB #2 effect ia more significant than #3 since our rear suspension is torsion beam, which also work like ARB... Will follow yr advice when budget permits. How much wld the front lower member brace cost? Easy to fit? TQ in adv. |
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Jun 11 2011, 06:28 PM
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QUOTE(Da_Shiang @ Jun 11 2011, 06:23 PM) I stopped going to SC already. Try 2accelerate gradually when driving auto cars...& esp so for 1.3 BLMs/FLs. This way yr fc wld b better...cos flooring yr acc pedal each time gonna cost yu in fc!10w-40? Ok I will take a note of that. but seriously auto BLM very thirsty. |
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Jun 12 2011, 10:32 AM
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Jun 12 2011, 10:32 PM
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Jun 13 2011, 08:02 AM
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#10
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Juz wanna ask...
Has any1 (1.3 FL with Immobiliser) bought & activated a separate 3rd party alarm remote ctrl and deactivated the orig for the key by removing its battery? Will the Immo still work? I plan to separate the Immobiliser fr the alarm remote cos very frequent accidental pressing of alarm buttons on key when in pocket ( no protective cover for alarm buttons on orig)! If not wrong P2 Myvi is using combination like that. |
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Jun 13 2011, 01:10 PM
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QUOTE(jerrymouse @ Jun 13 2011, 01:01 PM) My FL is giving me more worries nowaday, it has clocked 8.4k milleage and the engine is giving very loud 'roar' sound every time I start to rev higher 3.5k above..I can even feel the accelerator pedal is vibrating more compare to previously Only 8.4k km? Bought NEW? And yu hv all those probs? Sincerely hope it's just pure bad luck... One more question, is there any good SC recommended? I mean real good in troubleshooting problem for my car. Currently there is visible sound from tyre there, like something wanna drop when i go through holes, steering also vibrate I dont mind how far is the SC as long as my car problem can be reactify and fix. THANKS a lot guys Wonder if all that hype of Proton improving on its QC after revamp of top management and its new corporate direction & philosophy to win back Malaysians, are really being implemented.... From what I've heard fr frens & read in forums on the Net, Proton has appeared to hv improved in its products...esp 2b able to offer min 3-year warranty is no simple commitment, considering what one is only paying for Proton cars. True? Pls correct me if wrong, ok? This post has been edited by zeone: Jun 13 2011, 01:16 PM |
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Jun 13 2011, 07:38 PM
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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jun 13 2011, 07:29 PM) wait till tank finished only summarize Yup, as I'd posted earlier...might not be the petrol but more of the station... and try different station....and once u found out which gives best FC...only go to that station if possible i notice different station gives different FC / different amount of petrol to u...in order to earn money Also the sensitivity of the auto-stop mechanism of pumps also dispense different amounts of petrol @filling time! I juz had 1 pump stopping after abt RM20+ but on continuing manually, I cld fill RM40+ ie almost double first try! Phew! Petrol gauge showed still got 3 bars at start! Something fishy? |
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Jun 13 2011, 09:21 PM
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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jun 13 2011, 08:18 PM) this is a problem of saga blm/FL...sometime need to crank 3 times be4 the engine can start If that's the prob, then there's one way to overcome it. not sure why...nobody knows but a way to fix it it that...when u stop...dn't directly turn off the engine try open the door and hear if the radiator fan is spinning...in simpler word, is it idling + another loud noise if the radiator fan is spinning, wait for it to off only u off the engine if the radiator fan is off, then u can directly turn it off this is told by another member, someone tried...it works....i also tried it, it works as well it's been quiet some time i didn't encounter that problem anymore There is a good feature in my ole ride...PS 1.5I Auto (1992). Whenever ignition is switched off while rad fan is on, the engine is stopped BUT the rad fan continues to work if engine temp is above normal working temp thereby lowering engine temp b4 it stops. BLMs ignition switch turns ALL off!! That, I feel, is the root of the prob! Is there a way a delay switch can be added to the rad fan circuit to keep it running until the engine temp is not above normal running temp? Maybe a relay controlled by the engine temp sensor? Any elect tech mbers arnd who can help set up of such a relay? Shld b possible, rite? This post has been edited by zeone: Jun 13 2011, 09:24 PM |
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Jun 13 2011, 09:38 PM
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Jun 13 2011, 10:07 PM
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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jun 13 2011, 09:57 PM) u can search around lelong or mudah or automotive garage Yup, Juz now Googled & saw lots on sale in lelong site! Not cheap either! But mainly used to continue run engine to cool down turbo. ![]() just dn't buy those that u see that is especially too cheap install i think need to go to shop and have them install And yup, installation diagram shown not simple task & need to get car model specific connectors for good safe install. Shld find easier way... hehe... |
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Jun 13 2011, 10:11 PM
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Jun 13 2011, 10:19 PM
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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jun 13 2011, 10:10 PM) Change your front brake pads first. Agreed! Feel not worth the Puspakom hassle! Altering your braking system, in this case, rear disc brake, will need to send to Puspakom/JPJ for inspection. Personally, I dont think its necessary, as 75-85% braking is from the front, so as I said, change your front brake pads first. And its also cheaper than changing the rear brakes to discs. Change to better brake pads first. If want better improved braking, another mod I've done to my ole ride is a change to SS Reinforced Brake Hoses. Can instantly feel the difference in braking capability! If wanna save $$$, do it the DIY way as taught in car forums. Of course, effect not as great as a change of better hoses. |
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Jun 13 2011, 10:26 PM
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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jun 13 2011, 10:12 PM) Actually our cars (Campro ones) does allow the radiator fan to continue to run if the engine temperatures exceeds the threshold values. Fan only runs if ignition is on "start car" position. But when key is turned to "Accesories" position, rad fan is shut down! Like mine last time didn't off, later found out radiator fluid dont have In old Sagas, as long as key is not removed, rad fan runs till temp is down. |
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Jun 13 2011, 10:43 PM
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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jun 13 2011, 10:36 PM) thn anyone can go try and report it here Yup, car producers are doing biznes... So it's alwaz a question of economics. Economics of $$$! Do tell which biznesman not think of cost & profit...?? drum brake sucks...not sure why car manufacturer still using them?? mainly becuz it's cheap only |
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Jun 13 2011, 10:48 PM
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