This is just a great 1 2 3 points stop explanation that understandable by new photographer like me

To get this right, the colour gels you mentioned is the colour filters? I got 4 of them in the box, does that counts right?

Therefore I should always carry them with me and apply it when it's necessary? Okay, this is getting to much to absorb and it's getting critical if I can practise them right this weekend.

Sb900 is the only flashgun ever to have overheating issue

Check your manual page 103; you can download the softcopy for easier reference and you can use find to find the worst; It's under Auto ISO Sensitivity Control, you can read more information there on how it works.

For the shutter speed settings, it depends on the type of movement and so on (e.g. group shot with slight movement, people walking, people running, and also during the actual day "game"); For safe and lazy to adjust (and worry forgot to adjust back), you can adjust for fast shutter speed... OR save two different settings under User Mode 1 and User Mode 2. (e.g. U1 for faster shutter, U2 for slower shutter to compensate for smaller aperture for group shot).
By the way, with Flash, it can help to freeze motion as well, but slow shutter can result in trails (or whatever that's call).

As for under the sun, using the Flash you may have limited shutter speed, you will need to set the Flash Sync Speed to "Auto FP"; See page 222... As for overflare issue, as long you adjust the exposure right (if you're in M mode especially), the flash i-TTL will automatically balances the flash for fill-in.
You can read more about i-TTL Balance Fill Flash here (or the manual):
http://www.nikonusa.com/Learn-And-Explore/...Fill-flash.html

There's also something called D-Lighting (also Active D-Ligthing); This can actually help to brigthen the shadow area as well as recover some details on the highlight area. Something like Lightroom Recovery and Fill Light feature.
Active D-Lighting works as you take the picture, while D-Lighting is for processing later.
As to whether to use or not to use this, it's up to you to decide; You can try and experiment with it yourself.

Regarding bouncing the lights off ceiling or wall; I've bounce before on brown wall, green wall, etc. Yes, it does affect the picture, like slight green tint, etc. but so far, not really a problem for me or can still be fixed. Anyway, it "may" not be as bad as it seems; You have to try to and see it yourself (plus, brown wall is not obvious or probably not noticeable, probably it's not as effective in terms as they say darker colour absorbs light). Also, try bouncing off wall from different direction, if gives creative effects lighting and professional image quality; it can also help you fill in the shadow area.

Diffuser and Flash/Bounce Card, again, it's best for your to try out yourself and see the different effect; of course, if you're in a room or with ceiling/walls around, you will also get different effects. The built-in Flash/Bounce Card is very small, you can DIY bigger ones to soften the light more, or get the "Demb Flash Diffuser" kit, which I think few forum-mer here are using, it helps in situations without walls/ceiling especially.:
http://www.dembflashproducts.com/diffuser/

The colour gel is same like the diffuser provided, attached to the flash, except it useful for situation to correct the "lighting";
Example: Try shoot in Karaoke room and use the default diffuser provided and the orange color gel; The default diffuser, the picture will make the room as if lighted by bright flourescent light (under Auto WB); but the orange color gel can get more accurate ambient colour (under Auto WB). Anyway, I think it's best to experiment yourself as experience is the best teacher and also helps you to capture and learn faster.
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/light...to-correct.html

This post has been edited by Andy214: May 25 2011, 01:03 AM

cukop vibrant tak?

Therefore it shouldn't be a problem if I just grab that RM149 package off? Is there any concern on the different type of Eneloop charger?

Apologize in advance, but please bear with my newbie questions if those are.

How do we know or measure if the flashgun is overheating? Is there any indicator or measure to judge it's overheating?

The overheating mentioned is due to continuously usage of the flashgun and not due to the batteries or high mAh batteries, this is right? I'm having concern with that fact shared by the shop about their customers experience. What does it mean by switch the cut off?

Yes yes the colour filter, because you said gel before this so I try to make it easier hah.

You can get a yellow bulb table lamp and try firing you flash PROVIDED the table lamp's light don't get wiped out hah. Then you can see. Normally tungsten filter is highly used.

Anyway, go shooting spree. It will help you feel your equipment better and prepare yourself

Much better and clear explanation
Although I do bring it around, but I kinda lazy to use those gel/filters and also lazy to adjust WB

^ Same here. I shoot in Raw. But the lights later at the back kinda problematic, hopefully no one is picky enough to point them out haha

Yeah, I have downloaded the softcopy of manual for D7000 and I have it in my iPhone too (just in case! lol). Will check the chapter as per mentioned for the shutter speed / iso setting and how to utilize the user modes.

When my friend bought his D7000 kit, the seller not recommended to turn the Active D-Lighting ON as he claimed that it slightly wash out the sharpness of the photo quality. I'm yet to test it nor read more about it online, but I remained it turned OFF for the time being. Would the Active D-Lighting actually recommended to be turned ON all the time?

I'm still having mixed understanding between bouncing method and using diffuser or bounce card. I have seen many photographer just letting the flash fire 90 degree pointing straight up. All with diffuser if I'm not mistaken. Therefore, I should put it like this. Diffuser is used to soften the flash flare and to let it bounce on the wall. Bounce card is usually used in a situation where wall or ceiling is impossible to reach? Should it be that or I'm having wrong understanding. In addition, beside the "Demb Flash Diffuser" product, what other accessories can be paired with the flashgun that sold separately?

Noted on the colour gel thingy

Haha, I guess Andy214 first mentioned it as colour gel. I'm kinda rushy at the shop just now to check exactly what's packed with the package. I just opened it up and checked the list of item with the manual only know it's colour filter instead of gel

any event this month? long time no out to shoot liao

I don't turn the Active D-Lighting on too; Used it before but didn't really pixel peep and compare; But will be nice if I take a picture, it can produce 2 output, one with D-Lighting and another without
But then, I prefer raw, so these features become pointless.

The diffuser that provided/comes with the flash, it will soften and also spread the flash around the sides (not really sure how to explain) and the output is not what I really looking for. Most people use it and use it the basic way, flash head up 90 degrees or maybe slightly tilt. That's what you see commonly, even indoors with ceiling and walls around; When I use it, I just don't like the output. It's unnatural, and very "basic" or "mediocore" output result, in my personal opinion.
The diffuser is useful for situation without ceiling or wall as well; you often see people use the diffuser just about anywhere..... and I don't really find the light as soft "enough". In many situation, I tried it, took it off and put it back into my bag.
You can check out more on the Demb Flash Diffuser as it provides more flexibility and better results.

Sorry about the gel thingy
Forgot where I got the term, but there was also color gel which works the same as the filter; not sure which was first tough

This post has been edited by Andy214: May 25 2011, 01:49 AM

dear vearn27, grats for the purchase
and good luck ahead for the wedding.

dear scotty,
me join this one http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=148736871863933 and maybe this one http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=133092706767672

first 1 seems ok. any catch? i din read all. any charges?

oh its full. sorry im too late. let me know if got empty slot


This post has been edited by scotty: May 25 2011, 02:13 AM

Basically, if there is a burst usage on the speedlight, it will heat up fast, so when the speedlight get overheated and when that happen it will have a beeping sound indicating that the flash unit is overheating(there is a graphic thingy showing temperature), therefore it will cut off not allowing you to use it anymore, but u can switch off the cut off so that even if the flash unit still beeping, but u can still shoot. This will allow you to capture the moments and not losing it, but i will say that the sound is kinda annoying. Good luck to you.

Here is the link to off the Thermal Cut Out.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7566056_disable-ni...flash-unit.html

Sanyo Eneloop, highly recommended from me. So far it works well and never failed me.

Depends, if you look works of more wedding photog you would realize there are some at different level which does not use flash to capture actual ambient feel. I have a few friends who does wedding photography and they don't use flash all the time.

But oh well, that is with gears like D3 and also f/2.8 zoom, f/1.4 primes.

i'll try, thanks for the advice bro

lol, but i always use auto WB. and i keep my exposure middle in the middle. is it the correct way to do it ?

then what gear is that?


This post has been edited by Agito666: May 25 2011, 09:30 AM

Most of the time it would be ok. But some condition will confuse the metering and then your exposure would be no good. Then again, it depends on the photographer. What type of exposure does the photographer want. You control your camera, not your camera control you.

Yup, tumpang add on:
Remember, the camera is a device, it cannot see or know the real situation, it use its sensor and calculte the appropriate exposure.
Example: If the background is very bright and you subject standing in front of the background. The camera cannot see or know what's going on and cameras have limited dynamic range unlike human eyes.
In matrix metering mode, the camera will expose for the whole frame, thus giving you 'incorrect' exposure to the subject.
This situation you can dial in exposure compensation (in non manual mode) or if you're on manual mode, you can't rely on the metering unless you dial in the correct exposure compensation.
OR, you can change the metering mode, e.g. spot metering, so the camera will meter the spot which you focus instead of the entire frame.

Anybody please help to corrct me if I get any part wrong, or have something to add on or provide better explanation.

but then cosplay event the WB will run off right? because too colourful already XD...
last time snap this my friend said the WB take her pink wig as WB ...and make whole picture become pink...
now i wonder how the WB judge the "white"
that picture PPed one.


This post has been edited by Agito666: May 25 2011, 09:44 AM