Just remember the + and -
+ = more, means overexpose
- = less, means underexpose

The blink blink thingy is the FOCUS. When you look into the viewfinder, on the BOTTOM LEFT, you will see the BLINK BLINK. When it's IN FOCUS, it will be one green DOT. IF not, it will show arrow left or right, when focusing; Try to change to manual focus, this arrow will GUIDE you to turn the focus ring to focus.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 24 2011, 08:23 PM

If you're Canon user, then you need to consider if you're OK with the difference between both system; Or do you prefer Canon's feel, menu, etc. or Nikon?

Nikon: ...D70, D80, D90, D7000
Canon: ...30D, 40D, 50D, 60D

The metering depends on your metering mode, (e.g. Matrix, Center Weighted, and Sport Metering).
And it also depend on the situation, so the metering is suppose to be a guide/reference when you're shooting in Manual Mode. Depending on what you want to achieve, the meter is there to guide or provide as a reference.
For other modes, it will always try to get the correct (center) exposures; So in different situation you adjust the EV (Exposure Compensation), and the camera will follow the new metering.

Adjusting the EV in manual mode won't affect your picture, but it will alter metering; thus if you change the EV, and you adjust your settings (ss, aperture, iso) so the metering falls in the center, you may get wrong exposure.
In case you intended to adjust the EV in manual mode, make sure you adjust it back, else later you shoot other picture in manual mode, you wonder why your picture exposure is all out.

No; Newer products should usually be better, but if it's intended for a specific category, then it stays there; Never get confused with it's categeory/classifications.

This usually happens for automobiles; Newer car gets bigger in size, better in specs; It may be as big as the older generation which is higher in class, but that doesn't mean it's replacing that category.

B Segment: Vios, City, etc
C Segment: Altis, Civic, etc
D Segment: Camry, Accord, etc

If you see the old generation cars, they're pretty small in size, nowadays, Accord is HUGE...
Because cars keep growing in size and specs keep changes, or prices; People tend to get confused easily, especialyl when they are NOT familiar with the car.
Example: Peugeot 407, the CKD version is priced very attractively and prices brought down and specs went up; The downside? People confused by the pricing and due to european cars changes their model less frequently (the competitors already replaced with bigger models), people tend to confused and thought it's the same category and class as the Civic/Altis; But it's actually a D Segment, same as Camry and Accord.
The problem? Well, the price is closely priced to a C Segment, but it's a D Segment car and specs are better than many D Segment; So, it means, the car is very well spec and priced. BUT, when people confused and think it's a C Segment, the table turned, the price is no longer so attractive.

So, it's important not to get confused with the category of each model, as it will affect it's overall image, and it's competitors.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 24 2011, 11:22 PM

No, I did not.

D300S is same category as Canon's 7D
D7000 replaces D90, which is same category with Canon's 60D (which replaces 50D)
D5100 replaces D5000, which is same category with Canon's 600D (which replaces 550D)
D3100 replaces D3000, which is same category with Canon's 1100D (which replaces 1000D)


As I said in previous post before this, newer models usually improves and becomes better. You can't take D7000 and say compared it against some OLD generation outdated model that is in the higher category and say, hey this is BETTER so this should sit above it.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 24 2011, 11:40 PM

Actually, this is more like personal opinion or personal classification; Just like a car, we get newer technology cars which is better in specs and so on, we may think it "should" be above this class, although it's actually belongs to this class.
D7000 specs are good, and due to the model numbering, it leads to many confusion or people to think which one it replaces.

As following the category, we can probably say it's among the best of it's class.

You can find many nice shot from this guy, all his shots are jpeg, if not wrong, straight out from camera, and I think he set the sharpness to 7.
I notice most of his shots are not wide open, he should be using mostly the sweet spot of those lenses.

I did ask him for samples of wife open shots with his sigma 50-150, but he never replied.

You see and comment before, I post some colourful noob shot of toy car model, I think you comment colourful, hahaha.

Here got so many nice shots from D7K owners, no need worry: NixxerJixxerWixxer from PM spam many nice shots in PM, his latest one 2 small girls playing with water is Amazing!

I think his shot the distance is too close? resulted in more shallow DOF?

it seems like focus on the cheek. It could be focus and recompose.

His focus distance seems very close compared to yours, when focus so close, the DOF can be really shallow...

Well, his shot lseems little more closer, and if he focus and recompose, it will affect his focus plane. Finally, he might also have moved a little probably before pressing the shutter.

anyway, lol, we're like playing detective or troubleshooting, haha. just my guess lah, there can be many possibilities, only the person knows best.

Thanks for the info

Here:

http://www.photomalaysia.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=1379

I think to help identify the problem of the picture, it doesnm't really matter if his picture have more shallow DOF than yours or vice versa. The key point here is, there is shallow DOF. For the picture that I see, I would say the DOF is shallow since its considered close up, and we're also nolt sure if he uses focus recompose technique, if yes, this further cause the problem.
Even if he did not focus and recompose, it can be he focus and lock and during framing and waiting for the moment, he move or the subject moved shifting the focus plane.
As I said, there can be many reasons, only the person knows best. From the picture, what I can say is there is shallow DOF since its close up, the rest, it depends on the technique and how the shot was taken.

Before all these G and N lenses, people still make amazing and great photos. So, don't let the technology hold you back. It was suppose to help and make things easier and better, BUT not holding someone back or... how do I put it... too dependent and not learning... Just like nowadays there're many tools to ease many work, but it's meant to cut down and ease the work and achieve better result, not intended for people to neglect and ignore the skills.

Sincerely speaking, how many people can tell FROM Picture alone, what lens is used, what aperture, etc? If there is a photo taken with 50mm f/1.4G vs 50mm f/1.8D, can anyone actually differentiate and tell by merely looking at the picture alone?

Now it's hard to say; Do you know this lens already appreciate in value? The price went up about almost 50% in the US!

Who are we to claim a lens is nub? Even pros with D3S owns this lens.
Its cheap and does its job, and it's very useful for many situations, especially for beginner/people looking for a prime after the kitlens.

Appreciation of a lens is depends on individual, its a good buy at below RM800. I know some Canon owners wanted the 35mm at affordable price, Nikon owners got the choice, but yet its not appreciated. It may not be god-like lens, but its very good for its price, and gives opportunity for those in budget to own and use it.

Plus, as I've mentioned before, can anyone actually differentiate which picture is taken with which lens just by merely looking at the picture alone?

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 26 2011, 02:25 PM

If talking about model portraiture, somehow I find 50mm not tele enough even on DX, not much difference with 35mm; It feels going there but not there yet. It cannot give the effect/perspective that normally a tele lens give for portraiture; Then again, that's my personal opinion, but I'd advice anyone who want to get it for portraiture purpose, try to get a taste of those tele lens first, if not, later you'd wish you go for a more tele lens as the effect/perspective maybe what you actually wanted/looking for.

However given the price of the 1.8D and 1.8G, it's nice to have as an additional option.

Yup, that's why i said, personal and it's important to test out the more tele focal range effect/perspective.

As I mentioned, if you're looking specifically for portraiture, usually, you want the effect/perspective that tele-lens give, the separation of subject and background, how the background is being blown, etc. You need to try it and see the result of the picture. Usually, it's what people want but they didn't know until they tried and experience it.

An example is Wedding Photographers, why they bother to use 80-200mm or 70-200mm, shooting from far range; the resulting portrait makes the Customers amazed and happy because it's out of the ordinary shot and the resulting effect is very nice/different.

Well, not just portraiture, any kind of condition, each has their own personal preference; the important things is to know what the person wants, and try it out to know which one suits him/her best.

Put it this way;
increasing the ISO will reduce will affect your overall image quality (sharpness/detail/etc).

BUT, one thing to remember, underexpose at LOWER ISO is will introduce MORE NOISE than proper exposure at HIGHER ISO.

Hence, why some people complains about high noise / poor image quality at LOW ISO when they use a DSLR that suppose to have good ISO capability.