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 [WTA] Grundfos Water Pump, CH-PT or CH-PC

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colebruno
post Nov 16 2011, 07:25 PM

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Hi zheilwane,

Recently I went to inquire about Grundfos water pump and was recommended 2 options. I do not know the model but i think it should be similar to the ones you recommended.

The first option has higher pressure but smaller inlet. Hence can support up to 4 bathrooms only.

The second option has lower pressure but bigger outlet and hence can support up to 6 bathrooms.

I am a little confused here. If the 2nd pump has lower pressure, how can it support more taps/showers even though it has higher flow rate? Surely the pressure would reduced if there are more people using the shower/tabs?

Which is a better option? I have 6 bathrooms but i doubt all will be used at the same time.
zheilwane
post Nov 16 2011, 10:12 PM

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QUOTE(colebruno @ Nov 16 2011, 07:25 PM)
Hi zheilwane,

Recently I went to inquire about Grundfos water pump and was recommended 2 options.  I do not know the model but i think it should be similar to the ones you recommended.

The first option has higher pressure but smaller inlet.  Hence can support up to 4 bathrooms only.

The second option has lower pressure but bigger outlet and hence can support up to 6 bathrooms.

I am a little confused here.  If the 2nd pump has lower pressure, how can it support more taps/showers even though it has higher flow rate?  Surely the pressure would reduced if there are more people using the shower/tabs?

Which is a better option?  I have 6 bathrooms but i doubt all will be used at the same time.
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Here is an example:
When u r washing ur car, u use a hose. If you press the tip of the hose it will increase the water pressure and it could remove the dirt on ur car but if u release the hose, the pressure will drop bt you have more water coming out.

Are you renovating your house now or u just wanna get a pump? Why not u drop by my showroom? That would help u understand better, we do sell many other products such as FOTILE (hood + hob), Johnson Suisse (toilet bowl n basin), Sorento (taps & bathroom accessories)

YOu can view our promo in our facebook
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100001245528914

Here is our showroom
http://maps.google.com.my/maps?q=3.211593,...psrc=6&t=m&z=18

This post has been edited by zheilwane: Nov 16 2011, 10:14 PM
tension7
post Nov 22 2011, 11:23 AM

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Hi zheilwane,

Lately, I'm having problem with my 3-yr Grundfos pump - it does't kick in pump motor unless you let the tap water runs for 3 to 5 min. Normally, the pump starts as soon as the water starts flowing. Imagine how much water have been wasted.

Is that sign for a new pump replacement or just service call will fix the problem?

Thanks for your kind advise.
zheilwane
post Nov 22 2011, 10:52 PM

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did u purchase the PT series?
user posted image
lizziewong
post Jan 10 2012, 03:40 PM

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Zheilwane,

Looking at the piping plan below, I think my plumber had made the same mistake. My rain shower when using cold water is stronger, but when I use warm water drawn from a water heater tank, the pressure drops.

My 1-year old pump just spoilt, and all the taps in the First Floor baths are down to a trickle (not so trickle, but water is super super slow).

My pump is set up outside my house, I was told this is better because of easier access for repair or maintenance. I have a switch next to the pump, I supposed when it is time to change the pump or to repair, etc, one just need to switch off. I dont have any shelter, other than for the eaves of the roof.

I was advise that I shld have a switch inside the house, so I could just switch on the pump for bathing purposes.

Currently, my pump 'wails' every now and then, as it powers the 2 bathrooms and every time I turn on a tap or flush the toilets, the noise goes..

Any advise?




QUOTE(zheilwane @ Oct 2 2011, 12:25 AM)
Just a quick question, where did u purchase the pump from? The seller cant help u? You should really buy from some1 who is professional and could give u good advise. For example, if ur plumber has done the piping as per ur photo, you will have some problems after the installation....

a) The most important thing, you need to install PVC unions as per grundfos requirements.

b) If cold water is boosted by the water pump while the hot water is using water tank's water, your hot water pressure will b much weaker than the cold water. So, when u r showering, you will feel the water is not hot enough as u r getting more cold water than hot. Therefore, the tank's outlet should go into your pump then split to ur heater and down to your bathroom. By doing this, you will have same pressure for both hot and cold.

c) The pump by pass is wrong. Imagine u r using 8-10" rain shower but ur pump is out of order, so you will b using the pump by pass. However, the water supply is from the tank, do you think u will have sufficient water pressure to power up the rain showers? You should do a main water by pass instead.

Here is how the installation should look like
user posted image

Hope that answers ur question
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weikee
post Jan 10 2012, 03:45 PM

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What do you mean by wails?
JinXXX
post Jan 10 2012, 03:53 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 10 2012, 03:45 PM)
What do you mean by wails?
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i think "crying" or motor chopping high pitch whirl... smile.gif
lizziewong
post Jan 10 2012, 04:19 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 10 2012, 03:45 PM)
What do you mean by wails?
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Very noisy lah.. like a siren!!!!!!!!!!!
weikee
post Jan 10 2012, 04:32 PM

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Few things you need to make sure

01) Pump is sitting on a secure surface
02) Pump is sitting on the anti vibration map
03) The outgoing pipe from the pump need to be fully secure. My contractor actually screw / nail the outgoing pipe to a wood where the wood are secure to the roof truss.
04) A good pump of course biggrin.gif

I am using grundfos, i don't hear hammer sound. Sound sure got when the pump is on, is not loud, and it won't wake you up during sleep
lizziewong
post Jan 10 2012, 04:45 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 10 2012, 04:32 PM)
Few things you need to make sure

01) Pump is sitting on a secure surface
02) Pump is sitting on the anti vibration map
03) The outgoing pipe from the pump need to be fully secure. My contractor actually screw / nail the outgoing pipe to a wood where the wood are secure to the roof truss.
04) A good pump of course biggrin.gif

I am using grundfos, i don't hear hammer sound. Sound sure got when the pump is on, is not loud, and it won't wake you up during sleep
*
My pump is not a grundfos, as my husband got persuaded by my plumber to fix sthg else. Since it 'koyak' after a mere 1 year, it works out to be more expensive, so my plumber's argument that grundfos is all about paying for brand really fall flat. In my moment of weakness, I let this one go... so it is a costly lesson loh...

My next pump will be a grundfos for sure... but I would like to take the opportunity to correct the plumbing route (if it is still possible??) as water coming out of the boiler has little pressure, and to fix a switch inside the house so I only switch the pump on for showers (an engineer gave this advise lah!!). Of course, I am not sure that the s/s bracket on the exterior wall can house the new pump or not.



weikee
post Jan 10 2012, 04:52 PM

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Sound like the boiler inlet are not from pump, that is why you get low pressure for hot water.
lizziewong
post Jan 10 2012, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 10 2012, 04:52 PM)
Sound like the boiler inlet are not from pump, that is why you get low pressure for hot water.
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Yes, I realise this is a possibility after looking at the drawing updated by Zane!!!!!

This post has been edited by lizziewong: Jan 10 2012, 04:57 PM
weikee
post Jan 10 2012, 05:05 PM

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QUOTE(lizziewong @ Jan 10 2012, 04:56 PM)
Yes, I realise this is a possibility after looking at the drawing updated by Zane!!!!!
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I read you also switch on the pump 24/7? Is actually recommend to put the on/off switch inside to only switch on when require.
lizziewong
post Jan 10 2012, 05:11 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jan 10 2012, 05:05 PM)
I read you also switch on the pump 24/7? Is actually recommend to put the on/off switch inside to only switch on when require.
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Yes, the pump was on 24/7. Quite embarassing when one use the WC or wash hands at midnite or later!! My plumber assures me that this is the correct way mad.gif. I was also under the impression that if the pump is not on, there will be no water flowing into the bath taps, etc.

Now I need to do this:
1. install a switch inside the house.
2. Route the piping to let the boiler draw water from the pump.

are these jobs difficult to do?
JinXXX
post Jan 10 2012, 07:36 PM

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the pump can be on 24/7 cause there is a pressure switch..


weikee
post Jan 10 2012, 09:04 PM

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QUOTE(JinXXX @ Jan 10 2012, 07:36 PM)
the pump can be on 24/7 cause there is a pressure switch..
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Yes, it can. But since it have MTBF, if simple brushing teeth, flush toilet don't need so high pressure can use it longer loh.
zheilwane
post Jan 10 2012, 10:27 PM

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I guess your plumber mounted the water pump on a wall. When the pump vibrates a little, the vibration will travel down to ur house and the noise is also amplified.

Not very difficult to do the stuff above but due to CNY is around the corner, it will b costly to do so (plumbers will hike up the price).

If you wanna get the problem solved quick, jus drop by my shop and speak to Thomas, he would b able to give some good advise.
http://maps.google.com.my/maps?q=3.211593,...psrc=6&t=m&z=18

This post has been edited by zheilwane: Jan 10 2012, 10:30 PM
lizziewong
post Jan 11 2012, 01:36 PM

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Z,

Tks. Will certainly drop by. I still have water supplied to all the baths. Dont mind to take a bit more time, as I want a comprehensive solution!!



QUOTE(zheilwane @ Jan 10 2012, 10:27 PM)
I guess your plumber mounted the water pump on a wall. When the pump vibrates a little, the vibration will travel down to ur house and the noise is also amplified.

Not very difficult to do the stuff above but due to CNY is around the corner, it will b costly to do so (plumbers will hike up the price).

If you wanna get the problem solved quick, jus drop by my shop and speak to Thomas, he would b able to give some good advise.
RickRock
post Jan 14 2012, 02:24 AM

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Hi guys,

I just got my key for a sub-sales 10year old DSL house. Renovation will start after CNY.

The water pressure is "OK" for now. But has been planning to 'upgrade' my master room toilet with bathtub and normal instant heater. Here are some of my questions, hope can get some advice.

1. The house is vacant currently, the meter reader is the same since the 1st time i walk in until today, (more than 2 weeks), so do this means that the house no pipe leak?

2. The risk for installing Grundfos pump, is possible that the original pipe cannot take the pressure and cause water leak on the join?

3. Do Grundfos pump required yearly maintenance?

Thanks
JinXXX
post Jan 14 2012, 09:45 AM

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QUOTE(RickRock @ Jan 14 2012, 02:24 AM)
Hi guys,

I just got my key for a sub-sales 10year old DSL house. Renovation will start after CNY.

The water pressure is "OK" for now. But has been planning to 'upgrade' my master room toilet with bathtub and normal instant heater. Here are some of my questions, hope can get some advice.

1. The house is vacant currently, the meter reader is the same since the 1st time i walk in until today, (more than 2 weeks), so do this means that the house no pipe leak?

2. The risk for installing Grundfos pump, is possible that the original pipe cannot take the pressure and cause water leak on the join?

3. Do Grundfos pump required yearly maintenance?

Thanks
*
1. no leak for now.. smile.gif 1 year 2 years down the road.. what pipe are they using ??

2. there is a high possibility for that.. especially at joints.. and where the thread met outlets/shutoff valve...

3. not sure not using gfos..

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