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 [WTA] Grundfos Water Pump, CH-PT or CH-PC

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JinXXX
post Apr 13 2011, 01:03 PM

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usually what is the ideal.. water pressure..

and flowrate for taps/ water outlets eg pipe and sorts ?
JinXXX
post Apr 14 2011, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Apr 14 2011, 08:03 AM)
Actually, Grundfos CH2-50PC is good enough for most houses.
- 0.75 HP
- Max Head      : 45m
- Max Flow rate : 56 l/min

But if u are using big rain showers (10" and above), you might wan to get CH4-40PC to increase the flowrate.
*
wah, why all the spec like overkill spec one..

btw MAX head means what ? 45m = 45meter ??

JinXXX
post Apr 15 2011, 01:15 PM

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QUOTE(maul @ Apr 15 2011, 10:34 AM)
I got a question. I have 2 bathroom upstairs and running direct water from meter. So if one bathroom flush the toilet, habislah cannot take shower in the 2nd bathroom. I am thinking of installing grundfos but told by plumber that me house is >10 years old so afraid the piping might not tahan and leak or burst. Told better to change pipe. Pipe either outside the wall which looks ugly or kena hacking wall and tiles.

You think plumber is correct?
*
yup....

usually is like that... one.. unless u take measurement of the original pressure , cause you said direct...

then set ur pump to be similar.. then should be no problem.. usually the leak will be at the joints/fitting areas...

its always a 50/50 risk.. thats why is best to get the right pump that gives the right amount of pressure..

else will bocor here and there...
JinXXX
post Apr 15 2011, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Apr 15 2011, 01:25 PM)
Jinxxx u seem to know a lot about pumps, why would u ask me about flowrate at the first place?

Another way, install the pump first, mana bocor den fix where. But quite risky, i installed mine after 10 years also, luckily two areas bocor only.
*
yeah been doing tons of research on pumps since planning to get one...

my flowrate, i was refering to "tap" not pump as pump's one can get from grundfos website the technical specification...

i check out some documents regarding what is the nominal flowrate for taps and sorts for malaysia but found nothing on syabas website and come across a very interesting article/documentation/guide by singapore's PUB..

http://www.pub.gov.sg/wels/Documents/Revis...equirements.pdf

they rated norminal tap flow rate should be abt 6 liters/min (in another words , on tap to the max, in 1 min should output/give about 6 liters)

from what i've read so far, the "ideal" pressure for home should be about 40PSI = 2.80 Bar = 280KPA

i'm guessing a double story house is about 30 meters the CH4-40 @ 30 meter puts out abt 0.5 / 0.6 liter a second , that is you pump UP from a ground floor water tank.. but if ur water tank is on the roof .. i'm not sure how to see or calculate

so 0.5 liter a second = 30 liter a minute.. so for a nominal tap flowrate of 6liter/min , CH4-40 will give you support for abt 6 open TAPS maybe minus 1 or 2 taps, if got shower rain/rain shower...

ps : this is my opinion and based from what i've read and understand and calculated, ONLY , i don't own the pump YET.. tongue.gif, those that have actually used it can give a better insights... smile.gif

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Apr 15 2011, 02:22 PM
JinXXX
post Jun 8 2011, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Jun 8 2011, 07:43 PM)
yes CM pump to replace the existing CH pump
*
will be cheaper or priced around the same ?
JinXXX
post Jun 9 2011, 07:32 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Jun 9 2011, 06:18 PM)
of coz. Grundfos is among the top brand in water pump. U ask contractors or plumbers about grundfos and you will know why grundfos is good.
*
grundfos is good... just that the price is rclxub.gif rclxub.gif , if have money better take grundfos, can last long long...

if no money .. have to opt for other alternative...

grundfos pump for house can generate max 10bar pressure, thats why the controller is there to controller the pressure aka on/off switch

if ur pvc piping is class 7 PVC pipe then can stand up to 32 bar for 15mm PVC size...

problem is the joints, if your plumber did it correctly then no problem else might leak abit...

JinXXX
post Jun 14 2011, 03:41 PM

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just curious,

those polypipe/hdpe pipe 25mm, what is the approx market price? ,

sked kena chop when i go buy a few meters...

JinXXX
post Jun 18 2011, 06:58 PM

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whats the default stop pressure for the grundfos units ?

since they have those micro-controller/pressure sensor ?
JinXXX
post Jun 18 2011, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(skng03 @ Jun 18 2011, 07:17 PM)
40psi........
*
thats like 2.8 bar,

usually those new polypipe can stand until 12 bar PN12.5 while the fittings cam go until 16BAR

old piping is old piping hehehhe
JinXXX
post Jun 24 2011, 10:33 PM

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QUOTE(babytensai @ Jun 23 2011, 11:54 PM)
Actually it's illegal. According to syabas guideline, u can only tap water after the water tank. Bypassing the water tank would risk contaminating syabas water source.
*
because of 1 person.. most of the houses on the same pipe has less pressure...

another thing that i notice if you hook ur pump directly, and if there is a water leakage and there is sand/rust and etc bye bye to ur pump

and also, u could be FINED...
JinXXX
post Jul 26 2011, 02:58 PM

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hey just wanna ask since its related to pump...

how do we actually upgrade the water tank side..

for those that is kept between the roof and ceiling ?

cause usually the height is equal to the space between the support roofing frame.. so if i want ta have a bigger tank how do i do it ?,

other than hooking up another tank ?
JinXXX
post Jul 27 2011, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Jul 27 2011, 12:37 AM)
Normally the tank sit on the concrete slab. No?

I upgrade it to 2 tank and sit on the concrete slab. it can withstand the weight of 2 tank.
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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 27 2011, 12:39 AM)
Mine sit on the wood. Same in my current house too.
*
i was more of refering to how to bring the bigger tank in to the roofing/ceiling cavity...

since the distance of the support beams = how high/big a tank i have..

my tank is sitting on top the horizontal support frame which in turn sit on a wall ...

i think i need to draw something out to convey my message in some sense... lol


Added on July 27, 2011, 12:45 am
QUOTE(zheilwane @ Jul 26 2011, 05:54 PM)
just get a bigger tank but that would cost u some $$ as u nd to remove part of ur roof and cut the frame in order to fit in ur tank. Jinxx, r u from KL?


Added on July 26, 2011, 5:55 pmYou could also put another tank at ur backyard.
*
im currently working in KL but im refering to my hometown house smile.gif so far the design of tanks doesn't sit well at my back yard... more like my backyard no place for a tank unless its those "wall" tank...

QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 26 2011, 06:48 PM)
Also need to check the footing for the current tank can support the additional weight of new tank.
*
well my tank sits on top the horizontal support beam which sits ontop of a wall segment..

QUOTE(kochin @ Jul 26 2011, 07:48 PM)
bro,
how to remove the tank? cut into smaller pieces and remove?
i intend to buy one new stainless steel tank and locate it elsewhere leh.
thanks.
*
QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 26 2011, 08:23 PM)
Yup, that is what my contractor told me too. Cut smaller pieces.
*
yeah cut to smaller pieces, but better if can remove whole then you can reuse it to like store rain water for garden/wash car and so on...


Added on July 27, 2011, 11:02 amanybody know the approx pricing range for

http://www.conlexent.com/watertank.html

deluxe brand stainless steel tank ? , wanna survey if its worth upgrading or not..



This post has been edited by JinXXX: Jul 27 2011, 11:02 AM
JinXXX
post Jul 27 2011, 10:41 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Jul 27 2011, 10:37 PM)
King Kong water tank is the best and i would b able to offer good prices
*
king what ? got url/website ?

nvm found it

http://www.honesteel.com/tiki-galleries.php

just curious why you say king kong is the best ? when compared to deluxe ?

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Jul 27 2011, 10:52 PM
JinXXX
post Jul 27 2011, 11:18 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Jul 27 2011, 11:00 PM)
just look at the photo and you can tell the difference. Deluxe and most of the brands in the market has only V leg stand while King Kong has V and I leg stand, more solid and durable.
*
oh okie.. didnt notice that.. my bad smile.gif
JinXXX
post Jul 29 2011, 03:03 PM

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QUOTE(wayne @ Jul 29 2011, 02:39 PM)
my parents was worried bout the bill as well, but if its confirmed pressure trigger then its good. But was thinking of turning it off when not using, cos the noise a bit bothersome at night.
*
if its real grundfos its suppose to be quiet ..

did you place it ontop of those vibration mats or mounted it solidly onto the concrete ?

apart from that the sound comes from which part the impeller/pump section or the motor section...


JinXXX
post Jul 29 2011, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(wayne @ Jul 29 2011, 03:16 PM)
i didnt see how it was mounted, i would guess that its mounted on the concrete..i dun believe that the contractor has that vibration mats or watsoever.yea you can hear that impeller/motor thing. was wondering if turn on and off frequently will spoil or not...if its too noisy..then have to climb up the roof and check it out...
*
if nobody uses any taps or etc and it keeps turning on or off..

means there is a leak somewhere...

cause if the piping is leak proof the pressure would maintain and the pump won't on...

so better check all taps/valve and hopefully nowhere is leaking... smile.gif

cause usually the on and off switch pressure difference is about .x bars so its quite alot.. of pressure... smile.gif
JinXXX
post Jul 31 2011, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(sl2007 @ Jul 31 2011, 09:58 PM)
Not mistaken the plumber has installed a Non-Return Valve at the outlet connection....
*
dont see a problem with that, unless its faulty la.. *my opinion*....
JinXXX
post Aug 1 2011, 09:59 PM

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just curious...

does anybody that uses pump uses check valve aka no-return valve- single flow valve ?

i know those that pump from well uses it, what about normal home water usage.. ? if im not mistaken if your pump is higher than yr tank then only you require it right ? else no need?
JinXXX
post Aug 1 2011, 10:13 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Aug 1 2011, 10:05 PM)
U should use a non return valve for main water bypass but not on ur water pump.
*
if my tank currently is in my ceiling and i would like to invest in a new bigger water tank that can't sit in the roof
and i put it at ground level, and i dont wan to do a whole re-piping so just attached the new ground tank to the pump at the roof and install a check valve

so that the water won't flow back to the ground level tank.. is that correct , else the pump will be pumping air only lol...
JinXXX
post Aug 1 2011, 10:31 PM

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QUOTE(zheilwane @ Aug 1 2011, 10:28 PM)
What would happen if ur tank above ur ceiling run out of water first? Would ur pump b sucking some water from the ground tank and also some air from the ceiling tank since it is empty? Not recommended to do such installation as the pump should b installed near to your water tank, if ur tank is at ground floor, it would b hard for the pump to suck in water and booster the water .


Added on August 1, 2011, 10:28 pmHow many gallon is ur current tank and how many galllon is ur new tank?
*
sorry if my info was communicated wrongly.. plan to decommission my old tanks in the roof

PLANNING - to get a new 500gallon tank and put it as ground level.. lazy wan redo piping thought can just reattach the new tank outlet to the pump at the roof.. so it will work like pumping from a shallow "well" ...

rather than have to do wiring to place the pump near the new tank and do some kind of shelter for the pump and all

so thinking just put the pump same place and pull a new poly pipe with check-valve, as it will be cheaper and faster to implement

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Aug 1 2011, 10:33 PM

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