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 Discussion about watercooling and the results, Version 2

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almostthere
post Sep 15 2005, 06:03 AM

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QUOTE(AllnGap @ Sep 14 2005, 10:31 PM)
AFAIK, the so called copper is actually a mixture of copper and brass, because brass is so much cheaper than copper. wink.gif
brass is material used in our piping system, like water taps.

i'm not sure about DD's rads thou.
*
DD' s rad are usually more often then not HWLab's OEM units AFAIK.
almostthere
post Sep 15 2005, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(TJye @ Sep 15 2005, 12:02 PM)
Hi guys
I've got some question
I'll have a loop of g4 + dd heatcore
I was wondering if this pump, the alphacool aqua1500, is good enough for the job?
links to the pump
Madshrimps
Pcmoddingmy
http://www.ichbinleise.de/product_info.php?products_id=575

Thanks
*
I've read the German site and I can roughly guess that the HMax is 3m which sounds good but a realistic 900LPH? Hmmmmmmm....Someone should give it a try..how much does it cost and isit available as a AC based pump?
almostthere
post Sep 15 2005, 11:05 PM

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QUOTE(TJye @ Sep 15 2005, 10:49 PM)
Its a dc pump actually, dunno about can it be a ac based pump
but I know after researching that its made by OASE
its a OASE solaraqua 1500

it can work from a 12v-24v range
12v it would make 900lph and 2m maxhead
24v it would do 1500lph and 3m maxhead
the pump comes with a transformer converting 12v into 12v - 24v
and 1 thing I've really like about the pump is the power consumption is just merely 7w
I suppose the heat dump in this case would be less
*
Indeed it sounds interesting, reminds me of Aquateknika's 50z pumps which are as good as that on paper. Anyone care to give it a try?

As a side not, anyone knows how to fabricate these heat exchangers in copper?

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And Sigh....a few more days

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almostthere
post Sep 15 2005, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(TJye @ Sep 15 2005, 11:07 PM)
hahah they are all over the net
but the setback is the aluminum construction.
as far as I know
one can mill those parts out of a copper block or a solid copper rod
I dunno about cast
if can also the min volume would be gaigantic to just make it economical.
*
Yep milling would be much cheaper as the copper bars are easier to obtain and are reasonably easy to work on. The cross section pics shown seems to show no special technique required so just a matter of finding the barbs and such. Anyone up for the challenge? I'm sure a few would be interested as getting rid as much heat as possible from the loop is everyone's priority
almostthere
post Sep 15 2005, 11:17 PM

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QUOTE(TJye @ Sep 15 2005, 11:13 PM)
SeLrAhC: shoo shoo off topic la u hehehehehhe
I dunno where to get copper rods or copper blocks
as for milling probably can ask the lab asistance to help abit on it
maybe buy him tea.
*
I can also do the milling at my uni's machine shop but finding the bars would be the problem (Can amok step in here?). Tapping I'm not sure but once one can obtain those brass barbs it shouldn't be hard to tap the holes. But since it'll be in copper, how to anodise it so it won't oxidise eh?

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almostthere
post Sep 15 2005, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(TJye @ Sep 15 2005, 11:21 PM)
no idea on anodizing
I go and ask the lab asistance tomorrow on where he get the copper bars or blocks
The tapping can be done I know the lab got tools for this stuff
i've used some of them before
I see him milling alot of stuff before
One thing I don't understand is that
what are them using to provide a water tight seal between the 2 peice?
i only see o rings on the barb
*
What 2 pieces? I don't get you actually. But if you can fabricate em, mind sharing us a few since one would have to get the rods by the meter and you would have spare lenght. I won't mind paying a bit extra for the effort.
almostthere
post Sep 15 2005, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(TJye @ Sep 15 2005, 11:26 PM)
I go and ask and we would share the cost?
no problem on that since we are felow wc enthusiat

The 2 piece is the pic of the inline heat exchanger
the rod would open up into 2 piece? or it was disected by the reviewer?
I was asking if it can be open
how to make it water tight?
*
It's dissected for us to see how it looks like. Don't worry about that. No way one can make a cross section piece water tight unless there's a washer along the length and a lock nut to secure both ends.
almostthere
post Sep 16 2005, 09:00 PM

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QUOTE(pizzaboy @ Sep 16 2005, 07:21 PM)
looks promising.
but VGA, CPU, and Northbridge cooler as well?

gonna have to work hard lil pump.
*
That's a Hydor L20 I think if I'm not mistaken by the pictures I saw last time

And something a bit more mianstream but still 1337 to me, NEC's watercooling system for their Powermate dualies

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Thanks to Richboyz for alerting us over at Hardware section
almostthere
post Sep 17 2005, 07:42 PM

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-=deleted=-
almostthere
post Sep 17 2005, 07:42 PM

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mhn21, UGPM
almostthere
post Sep 19 2005, 07:25 AM

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Now this is something I found over at Asetek's site

QUOTE
WaterChill Xtreme [12V] Integrated Pump/Reservoir


BEST PUMP/RESERVOIR SYSTEM
INCL. CONTROL SOFTWARE ON
THE MARKET - NO MORE, NO LESS!

FIRST EVER INTEGRATED PUMP, RESERVOIR AND USB/SOFTWARE BASED CONTROL UNIT! 
FIRST EVER PUMP SYSTEM,  SPECIFICALLY DEVELOPED AND REFINED FOR HIGH-END PC/COMPUTER WATER-COOLING APPLICATIONS! 
FIRST EVER PUMP SYSTEM TO BALANCE FLOW, PRESSURE AND POWER CONSUMPTION (HEAT DISSIPATION) FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE!
FIRST EVER CONTROL SOFTWARE OFFERING DIRECT NOISE AND PERFORMANCE OPTIMIZATION, CUSTOMIZATION OF USER PROFILES, AND COMPLETE SYSTEM SURVEILLANCE!
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almostthere
post Sep 19 2005, 02:12 PM

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QUOTE(antonio_zth @ Sep 19 2005, 11:05 AM)
nicee... drool.gif  drool.gif ...but surely it will cost in the region of rm5xx-7xx....did u get the estimated price for the item??? thumbup.gif
*
taken from Asetek's site : Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price ex. VAT [within the EU] € 77.50

Gulpppp.... sweat.gif
almostthere
post Sep 20 2005, 04:45 AM

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QUOTE(TJye @ Sep 19 2005, 02:13 PM)
err the G4 just got delayed again
what do you guys think?
I mean those that are buying G4 from din
*
Me, prodigy and presumably amok are staying on. It's up to you to decide for now. I've checked all online stroes in the states including Voyeurmods and all are on backlog order
almostthere
post Sep 27 2005, 09:36 PM

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Bang Antonio, semknyer rig..huuhuu...anyway kalo pakai stacker, ada cara nak pendekkan gila loop tuh. Nih gambar dia as it's worth a 1000 words

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almostthere
post Sep 28 2005, 06:45 AM

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QUOTE(amok @ Sep 28 2005, 12:39 AM)
^.. ehem-ehem.. upstairs is showing off his rig... just wait till the G4 get into action.. if not mebbe a G-string will do biggrin.gif .

Yes mr anthonio.. shorten those "cacing" tubes a bit it'll increase your heads pressure.
*
Macam dia sorang jer yang akan pakai G4 laaa....sodaaaaaa

Anyway, on the G4, stocks are being replenished in that states so we can expect to see ours in Bulk Ver. 8 dinster
almostthere
post Sep 28 2005, 12:04 PM

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Just for reference, the specific weight of water is at 9.81 kN/m(cube)

Antonio, rasa kena buat drastic measure sikit whereby you have to do an upside down mobo configuration (You didn't notice meh in my pics the difference?) and from there work out ur tubings so that the pam to block length is about 5"-6" camtuh baru ada improvement. If my AXP Mobile 2.5Ghz can do steady 45C all day at full load using a DD Maze 4, I'd be very disappointed if I got temps like yours.

Buang laaa kipas Smartfan tuh and use some Delta's or Pabst's baru ada cool down of the Rad itself.
almostthere
post Sep 28 2005, 03:05 PM

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Erkkk...bant anotnio....rimas gua tengok PC ko nih...huhhuuh

Anyway if temps don't improve, try converting the Stacker to Semi-BTX which means you flip the whole motherboard pan 180 degrees so that the processor and the radiator kat bawah. That way the pump is very close to the block. You might gain a lot in terms of pressure to supply to the bloock. It's quite easy to do. Just need to unscrew about 12 screws at the motherboard pan's base. IF tak fit flush, just saw the crossmember besi just below the upper PSU slot and it'll fit just nice and won't be noticeable as it will be concealed by the PSU backpanel of the stacker.

And CM punya UV fan? Mak aih, that fan very low cfm laa wei. Dah laaa rad Tt tuh very restrictive. Get that delta I see on the left fitted on instead, sure tak rugi wan

QUOTE(louyeh @ Posted 28/09/2005, 02:22 PM)
http://www.cooling-masters.com/articles-33-0.html

Pump comparison: AquaXtreme 150Z-DC12, AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12, DangerDen D5/Laing D5, Dangerden CSP-MAG, Asetek Waterchill 12V and Laing DDC.

itz in ze french zo uze ze bablefishoz
Read that already and as the charts show and Cathar himself has repeated many times, The Aquaxtreme 50Z-DC12 (not 150Z, heat dump too muchand who needs 6m head pressure?) still remains the top dog in terms of performance per heat dump by far as they also included that as a side comparison. After all, it's a Laing MCP600 in the first place
almostthere
post Sep 28 2005, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(TJye @ Sep 28 2005, 03:11 PM)
U all got any info anywhere about Aquaxtreme 100z DC-12?
Maxraccer over xs was saying that it would be the best pump once its out replacing the 50z
*
Cathar did gave gave good comments about it if you read his 2 cents in the XS concerning the pump review at that site actually. And I can safely say that his views although maybe a bit too technical, has a very sound and solid basis to begin with.
almostthere
post Sep 28 2005, 03:27 PM

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QUOTE(antonio_zth @ Sep 28 2005, 03:16 PM)
about flipping over aku try last time but something is stuck when i wanted to screw all back together...then i cancelled my intentions and use back ori ATX style...

about the fan i'm still waiting for paycheck then only buy another Delta...the one u saw i for my PWM and Chipset area cooling...which is a must when u run + 0.2v on cpu and 0.1v on the chipset.... thumbup.gif of course la the CM Uv not enuff grunt to blow the radiator laugh.gif ....infront of the rad got the TT fan...so the rad now is sandwiched between 2  slowmo fans.....

i didnt had time to test the temp juz now since not enuff time have to go back office (boss panggil)....maybe tonite try again see got diffrence after lapping or not... laugh.gif
*
I kno it's will be stuck w/out some modifcation. You have to use a hacksaw and saw off the crossmember just below th PSU hole kat belakang. Then it'll fit flush. Trust me antonio, been there, done that and living with it proudly
almostthere
post Oct 2 2005, 03:50 PM

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QUOTE(pizzaboy @ Oct 2 2005, 03:30 PM)
I think, I might try watercooling .

So after reading, I assume that the bigger the reservoir is ,the better the cooling?

The larger the radiator area, the better dissipation?
I'll be using  four 120MM fans running at 7V. Two push-two pull (any radiator can right? Car rads?)

1/2" tubes. Shorter the better, increase flow pressure?

Now what pump?
And what waterblock?
Just mau test cuba-cuba aja, tak payah too high-end la.

Maybe something that promises at least 5C drop from my XP-90C setup can adi.

Think can get everything below ....RM500?
*
Aiyooo...lambat laa you...or not could have gotten the Zalman waterblock by Din for only RM100/=. Pump murah2 wan about RM75/= for a decent flowing one. But have a look at ikan_semilang's Swifty bulk for an idea.

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