2uk3y, for your setup you can improve on it actually. Here's a few DIY steps to improve on it

#1. Lap the base of the waterblock till it's visibly shiny and even. That helps alot in terms of thermal interfacing

#2. Swap the pump for a higher head pressure pump which wouldn't br a problem as the barbs seem removable and the pumps a Hydor L25 @ Nirox P2800.

#3. Rearrange that loop. It's totally wrong. It should be

reservoir -> pump -> CPU Block -> NB Block -> Radiator -> Reservoir

Read my guide in the tips and tricks section. It's very detailed and through

Why? Because waterblocks are sensitive to head pressure. The better the pressure the greater the dissipation of water absorbed with heat from the waterblock due to incrase force to overcome the waterblock's resistance.

tsk tsk tsk, can't believe you guys didn't notice that

This post has been edited by almostthere: Dec 31 2006, 03:12 AM

Dependant on block. Your Apogee was designed for low flow restriction. My Maze 4 and G4 benefited from such a configuration

well you could try pm'ing rlhc and ask whether he still does his weekly orders from sidewinder's. He maybe able to help

and what is this topic about huh? Learn to read first

lemme try to explain.a 2 pass rad would be better in certain cases where the thermal energy absorbed would be too much to dissipate using a single pass rad.instances of such cases would be multi block setups.such situations would require greater thermal absorbtion/dissipation rates that 2 pass types offer.the downside would be requiring higher cfm fans (generally, except thermochills) due to increased bar density hence increased air flow restriction and loop water flow rate reductions

What doom says is true and to say that battery water contains sulphuric acid's is quite untrue unless you went to pour out the battery water from the battery itself. Battery water itself is more or less distilled water but not laboratory level in terms of distillation and impurities content. That is all/

As for shanelai's query, I'm guessing algae build up as there maybe too much air leaks compounded with overall water temps which are conducive for organic buildup. Try finding water wetters as their main purpose is to inhibit any such organic build up. Whitish is actually calcium buildup

This post has been edited by almostthere: Mar 12 2007, 02:04 PM

Last I remembered, was metalzone and RLHH who's doing weekly runs from Petra's Tech shop

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=384729&hl=petra

I have a MCR220 on standby here but no clamps cos some idiot pinjam tak kasi balik. Will report about it later when I rig itup. Now busy trying to start up my new rig

ahpaul the block looks like uses allen key's. Try opening up with those 1st

it will onlt leak if the sealing rubber is gone case. All you need to do is to make sure the allen screws are firmly torqued down that's all. I've serviced so many waterblocks including Maze 4's and none have ever leaked

celaka lu david, mana lu dapat itu barbs for the storm?

eh can speshul request or not? Don't think brass barbs from ACE Hardware look 133t enuff leh

dude, we're talking about barbs, not waterblock la. Anyway David, any updates? Tangan gatal edi to change my barbs

dude you don't know how hard it was to pasang it la. Had to balut teh threading with teflon tape baru can masuk with lots of wrenching with a plier. Better to get those designed according the threading specs of the inlet and outlet of the waterblock

This post has been edited by almostthere: May 7 2007, 05:18 PM

eh dun laa say capalang...say ghetto marrr


David dun tok so much....conpirm first how much then see if can siong cher or not. Really damn beh tahan liao

This post has been edited by almostthere: May 8 2007, 12:23 AM

what's with the barbs laaa sifu? Tak sabar2 edi

Mana swiftech cakap?

According to Cathar ngan Maxxracer, more then 13v does not yield any real gains except increased temps. And never take swiftech's data without at least a grain of salt

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=41495

and isit 13.8 feet HMax and wattage is 24W shawty?

This post has been edited by almostthere: Jul 7 2007, 12:21 AM

Finally after over a year hiatus, back into the wet end of cooling

Pic of it mounted



And I don't like the fact it's micro channels are too fine

Possibly flow restrictive which defeats such a design's aim

Because spending money on CM or Tt watercooling sets is an equivalent to throwing money into the drain. Either you get a good watercooling setup or you stick to good air cooling