Guys i wanna ask about steering, can i fit
1.any version wira steering onto my 98 sedan wira?
2.any proton models satria, satria neo, gen 2, waja?
3.Kancil steering?

need bosskit for any of those ah?

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Added on March 17, 2011, 5:37 amI got my rubber rail for 90 in Taiping, i got it back to penang to fix for rm 40, i guess i got slaughtered for the workmanship in penang, refer to previous thread (no 24) to read my story

This post has been edited by cIvIc_noob: Mar 17 2011, 05:37 AM

Meaning for all steering i take from other models i plug and play also including savvy. neo, gen 2 and etc?

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Added on March 17, 2011, 2:05 pmDamn my road tax expire tomorrow and i called my insurance company uniasia. They said i cannot renew one year and only renew half year because they waiting for the new insurance ruling thing and i was told that i have to buy p.a. on top of the comprehensive later on. Some more sum insured has to be 12,000. Waffak i only insured 10k this year.

I was quoted half year insurance Rm115 without ncd. It only allow ncd claims for people buying one year insurance and they wouldnt allow me buy one year. And then if i was to buy 3rd party, i have to go puspakom wei
... damn you government, why paksa us buy pa i already got my own insurance make me for out more... Anyone got any insurance company to share

This post has been edited by cIvIc_noob: Mar 17 2011, 02:05 PM

sorry i misread if as it haha

Distibutor kong car cannot start dy lo

Actually everything got pros and cons

Pre ECU wira's those running on carburetors old skool mech can tune, those ECU wira's with Fuel injection i heard have to go to shop to tune. Btw i am driving a carb one now and previously i was driving a fuel injected wira, the carb version seems to be more powerful.

Manual or auto? its up to you, if you dont have a strong left foot for clutch better get an auto, but undoubtedly manual save you more fuel. But if you drive in a city and jam all the time and most of the time your speed hovering around 60 like that auto is your best option.
The 1.5 wira auto Gearbox very lasting unless the previous owner abuse it but these are the hardest thing to break inside a car, the 1.6 version auto Gearbox i heard a lot of horror stories before.

Things to check out for:
1. Rust, a lot of owners have rust especially on the roof so its a normal thing because of the glue proton used for the roof. New roof without paint and not yet installed in ZTH is Rm300, avoid those with rust on the bodywork as those are not received proper paint jobs.
2. Old cars like these normally will heat up, gotta check radiator, make sure fans working and no leak in radiator or on the top cover. Take for a drive see if got water leaking out after put it to stationary.
3.Battery: If its just a few years old you're lucky no need to waste money. Normally date of purchase is on the battery, sometimes its hard to turst seller so if he got receipt even better.
4. Tyre's : If its near new you are lucky. If botak no good, if got more than 1 cm good, If got receipt you can validate the age of tyre
5.Absorbers: Normally absorber will wear out, spring wont so easily spoilt. How to check? put your hand at the boot of the car and push it down and let go, if it pushes back up immediately and stop it's new absorbers, if it pushes up and go down again and up again its kong already, the time you test drive you will easily scratch the floor
6.Goodies: If owner change parts for the car, the best is always original as they are more reliable rather than performance based but things such as muffler and open pod filters are bonuses .

If i free again i come contribute gtg do work now bye enjoy hunting

Thats ur fc?amazing what u do to your ride, what engine oil u using

sorry what is addinol my fc is bad 8.3km/l so i was surprised with yours

Maybe i should try it out next time, is it available in most spare parts shop and how much did it cost you?
I am currently using some shell bull shit. I am driving with a very light foot Gear 3 at 1.5k rpm most of the time 35-40km/h, just to lower down fc

come people come share share your car modification and tuning and fuel mileage, i would like to know more how you guys get such good mileage
Modification done:Open pod
Current Mileage: 159999
Transmission: Auto/Manual: Auto 3 spd
Average driving speed: 70
Driving style-Acceleration: Normal, 2/3 times tekan kuat kuat in one full pump cycle
Driving style-Braking: Normal, no hard breaking
Car engine oil: Current Shell helix 20w 50( i think)
Tuning: None
Tuning done by? and price?: None
Fuel consumption: 8.3km/l (One tank can only go 280 before it starts blinking T.T)
Tips to share with other member: The best way to save fuel on 3spd wira is at the speed of 30-35 which is 3rd gear at 1.1-1.5k rpm

1.Isn't engine rebuild like super expensive, but why rebuild engine, everything working? how much does it cost, and how long process? what do they actually do, but engine running.
2.What exhaust setup - 4-2-1 cap apek?+remove catcon+1.7inch piping+sflow? Btw i read that back pressure is good for auto cars, and yet there are those who say remove cat con because it restricts air and create back pressure, is it advisable to remove cat con for auto car
before open pod its already consume this much fuel so it does not make difference to me

I thought i was the only one
But car in running condition oh, no white smoke coming from back, why should do overhaul?

This post has been edited by cIvIc_noob: Apr 6 2011, 04:42 PM

Aiya don't gaduh lah, your car your money you happy with your car the other party happy with their car, then settle.

just leave it empty, i change one side rm 90 and then kerja pasang havent kira some more, btw proce should be rm80-100, more is considered chop u dy

What should i do to get more torque from 70-80kmh to 100km/h
Driving a 4g15 carb auto 3spd.
The other day i drive jalan kampung, the jalan one way up one way down, and then i overtake car by tekan full throttle and then the car like accelerate so slow one, my heart panic opposite lane got car approaching.

hope this help friend
http://tacra.blogspot.com/2010/09/bumper-w...tria-putra.html

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Added on June 6, 2011, 3:11 pmi found u more comprehensive one
http://tacra.blogspot.com/2010/11/wira-bumper-removal.html

This post has been edited by cIvIc_noob: Jun 6 2011, 03:11 PM

mudflap?

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Added on June 17, 2011, 9:44 pmHi good evening, i see you have tint promo in ur siggie... any super super deal for all of us here?^^

This post has been edited by cIvIc_noob: Jun 17 2011, 09:44 PM

lols , i dunno what u mean by banana leaf but, its the rubber thing attaches at the arch, cause the sound as 'typed' by you sound like that to me

Hi guys, im driving wira 1.5 (a) 97 carb

I wanted to ask you guys experience in changing ATF, this is my first ATF change since i bought the car. My question is

1.What type of oil?
I've read people changing Mitsubishi diaqueen SP3, and now proton has this new ATF XP3 (Useable on our Wira, anyone tried?) How much is it?

2.How many litres is actually used for the gearbox? I've been reading people use 4l only whilst further googling i found some say 12l. So if a 4l oil change was dones that means 8l more is old oil and dirty so=no effect?

3. Will the service of ATF oil change normally include flushing of gearbox oil or is it just 'drain and refill'?

4. How does the flushing occur, is it normally done manually by the mech or is it done by using a machine?

5. Last question, is the price that you guys pay for this service. Pls note whether all the mentioned things is done
a)Drain and refill service + Oil(Please specify ammount and brand)=Rm?
b)Drain +Flush + Refill + Oil (Please specify ammount and brand)= Rm?

no feedback guys?