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 PROTON SAGA BLM & FL CLUB V12, welcome FL to the family

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omara86
post Apr 26 2011, 09:09 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Apr 26 2011, 08:03 PM)
welkam bek

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*
Heheheheh
ericmaxman
post Apr 26 2011, 09:33 PM

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QUOTE(goohtj @ Apr 26 2011, 08:46 PM)
I start off with 10-40w,
then change to 20-50w(as reco by service manual) , car become very heavy.. no power.
goback to 10-40w,, ok.
change to 10-30w, wah, better performance..  then become more ambition, change to 5-30w. pickup good, but engine quite noisy. so now use 10-30w mineral , change every 5000km..
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hmm. i bought second hand, not sure what's its using :S

QUOTE(omara86 @ Apr 26 2011, 09:09 PM)
Heheheheh
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MR_alien
post Apr 26 2011, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(goohtj @ Apr 26 2011, 08:46 PM)
I start off with 10-40w,
then change to 20-50w(as reco by service manual) , car become very heavy.. no power.
goback to 10-40w,, ok.
change to 10-30w, wah, better performance..  then become more ambition, change to 5-30w. pickup good, but engine quite noisy. so now use 10-30w mineral , change every 5000km..
*
did u use the same brand all the way or u switch brand?
cuz what brand u use means everything abt the noise
SiuYi
post Apr 26 2011, 10:12 PM

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memang more nipis the oil more tappet sound la..summore you are not advice to use full syn for ur BLM. doing that u will damage ur engine rather than having a better engine. for safe, just stay with 15-40 or 10-30 (like what u reviewed).
goohtj
post Apr 26 2011, 10:20 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Apr 26 2011, 10:00 PM)
did u use the same brand all the way or u switch brand?
cuz what brand u use means everything abt the noise
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5-30w is pennzoil semi sync
jacq330
post Apr 26 2011, 10:22 PM

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aiya, my fc RM55-RM60 only manage to climb till 230-240KM only.. is it bcos de car still need??

btw, do u guys face the prob..?? Auto.. from gear 1 to gear 2 need very long time just can switch, i mean to switch from gear 1 to gear 2..

Especially when the engine is cool.. is harder to switch..

and also.. the aircon will auto cut off and come out with warm air? few second for warm air.. any? the cold temp i already put at quite max..
SiuYi
post Apr 26 2011, 10:26 PM

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jacq330
yes.o2 sensor still cold, that's why. never put ur aircond temp till max, just 2/3 of the knob will have max performance.
jacq330
post Apr 26 2011, 10:40 PM

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QUOTE(SiuYi @ Apr 26 2011, 10:26 PM)
jacq330
yes.o2 sensor still cold, that's why. never put ur aircond temp till max, just 2/3 of the knob will have max performance.
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yaya, i put 2/3 as wat the salesman told me.. thanks =) so is normal rclxms.gif

wat bout the gear? is it adjustable at service centre? icon_question.gif
MR_alien
post Apr 26 2011, 11:03 PM

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QUOTE(goohtj @ Apr 26 2011, 10:20 PM)
5-30w is pennzoil semi sync
*
try use other brand
different brand have different effect


Added on April 26, 2011, 11:05 pm
QUOTE(jacq330 @ Apr 26 2011, 10:22 PM)
aiya, my fc RM55-RM60 only manage to climb till 230-240KM only.. is it bcos de car still need??

btw, do u guys face the prob..?? Auto.. from gear 1 to gear 2 need very long time just can switch, i mean to switch from gear 1 to gear 2..

Especially when the engine is cool.. is harder to switch..

and also.. the aircon will auto cut off and come out with warm air? few second for warm air.. any? the cold temp i already put at quite max..
*
1st...your car still need few more service to archive better FC
2nd...gear change when engine still cold is very hard
3rd...do not turn the temp to max....your aircon's life will not be so long...just turn to middle...very cold already

This post has been edited by MR_alien: Apr 26 2011, 11:05 PM
jacq330
post Apr 26 2011, 11:37 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Apr 26 2011, 11:03 PM)
try use other brand
different brand have different effect


Added on April 26, 2011, 11:05 pm
1st...your car still need few more service to archive better FC
2nd...gear change when engine still cold is very hard
3rd...do not turn the temp to max....your aircon's life will not be so long...just turn to middle...very cold already
*
thank u for the reply thumbup.gif
SiuYi
post Apr 26 2011, 11:38 PM

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jacq330
coz everything is by ECU, so for auto tranny, it depends on the gearbox. u needa heat up everything before going off. some drivers here advice to heat up an auto tranny saga for few secs before going off to the road.
sonotme
post Apr 27 2011, 12:49 AM

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QUOTE(omara86 @ Apr 26 2011, 06:02 PM)
Fot my car, i'm using syntium 800... Helix my fren told me, makes the engine sound harsher.. Dunno true or not..
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i switched shell helix on my last 27k service, now the engine not so loud, lower rpm but fc not sure because i switched to the new petronas ron 95 xtra biggrin.gif
lhwj
post Apr 27 2011, 02:04 AM

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QUOTE(fesick @ Apr 26 2011, 06:05 PM)
update : petronas 95 xtra : 30 L = 350km, but yesterday i pump again 30 L oil go vomit lar, i think my oil level indicator inaccurate?
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Why do you think your gauge is inaccurate? When the warning light is blinking you should be able to add 29-30 L, the rest is reserved and unrepresented on the gauge.

QUOTE(SiuYi @ Apr 26 2011, 10:12 PM)
memang more nipis the oil more tappet sound la..summore you are not advice to use full syn for ur BLM. doing that u will damage ur engine rather than having a better engine. for safe, just stay with 15-40 or 10-30 (like what u reviewed).
*
I'd like to know exactly how synthetic oil can damage the engine. If it was so the SC wouldn't have given me synthetic on my request (15w50) during my 10k km service last month.

QUOTE(jacq330 @ Apr 26 2011, 10:22 PM)
aiya, my fc RM55-RM60 only manage to climb till 230-240KM only.. is it bcos de car still need??

btw, do u guys face the prob..?? Auto.. from gear 1 to gear 2 need very long time just can switch, i mean to switch from gear 1 to gear 2..

Especially when the engine is cool.. is harder to switch..

and also.. the aircon will auto cut off and come out with warm air? few second for warm air.. any? the cold temp i already put at quite max..
*
Ouch, that's quite bad. Recently I've been hitting ~420 km on ~RM 60 (~33 L). Try and aim for at least 300 km after your car gets run in. That should be quite reasonable.

And your problem is one of the reasons why I vow that for as long as I can I'd avoid owning an automatic. Too little control is left in the hands of the driver.

This post has been edited by lhwj: Apr 27 2011, 02:06 AM
NewbieBetta
post Apr 27 2011, 06:29 AM

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yeah..why using fully synthetic will damage the engine? how can it damage?
omara86
post Apr 27 2011, 06:32 AM

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@Lhwj - 15w50 is recommended for our climate, doesnt matter mineral, semi or fill synth, thing that matter is the viscosity value..

10w40
15w40
15w50

Anything around that number... We dun hav winter here so juz disregard the number before W... The lightest for our climate is 30 but not for small displacement engine, like our beloved BLM...

This post has been edited by omara86: Apr 27 2011, 07:56 AM
omara86
post Apr 27 2011, 07:40 AM

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QUOTE
the winter grades of 5W, 10W and 20W are determined by the oils' viscosity at 0° Fahrenheit (-18°C), while grades 20,30, 40 and 50 are determined by its viscosity at 212° Fahrenheit (100°C).

what on earth does the 0W rating denote? Well it's a special case denoting a difference in the 'pour point' of the oil. Most 5W oils have a pour point at -40°F (-40°C) The base oil is the same in 0W40, but it's pour point has been lowered even further - sometimes to as much as -50°F (-46°C)

Pour point is 5°F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter.

Oil type Typically used in....
5W-30   Cooler climates, like Sweden or Canada
10W-40   Temperate climates, like England
15W-50   Hot climates, like Italy, Spain, Egypt


sos kicap tamin: http://www.carbibles.com/viscosity.html#ixzz1KGhqaJJe

the conclusion for us in malaysia with hot climate is, use high viscosity oil so it wont get too thin in high temp and cause losing pressure..



ENEOS 0W-20
ENEOS 0W-50
ENEOS 5W-20
ENEOS 5W-30
ENEOS 5W-40


Mach 5 15W-40
Syntium 800 10W-40/15W-50
Syntium 1000 15W-50
Syntium 3000 5W-40
Syntium 5000 0W-30/0W-40


Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40
Shell Helix HX7 10W-40
Shell Helix HX5 and HX5 E 15W-40
Shell Helix HX3 20W-50


This post has been edited by omara86: Apr 27 2011, 07:55 AM
synex
post Apr 27 2011, 08:52 AM

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QUOTE(lhwj @ Apr 27 2011, 02:04 AM)
Why do you think your gauge is inaccurate? When the warning light is blinking you should be able to add 29-30 L, the rest is reserved and unrepresented on the gauge.
I'd like to know exactly how synthetic oil can damage the engine. If it was so the SC wouldn't have given me synthetic on my request (15w50) during my 10k km service last month.
Ouch, that's quite bad. Recently I've been hitting ~420 km on ~RM 60 (~33 L). Try and aim for at least 300 km after your car gets run in. That should be quite reasonable.

And your problem is one of the reasons why I vow that for as long as I can I'd avoid owning an automatic. Too little control is left in the hands of the driver.
*
shocking.gif shocking.gif 420km?? My 1st full tank only reached 240km and i'm driving a manual type. I noticed the car rev quite high or just maybe mine is still very new? Less than 2 weeks and haven't done the 1000km service. What is you guys car's rpm when then car is not moving?? Mine is at 1.8k and i think it is consider high. Can lower down? Please advice. smile.gif
max_cjs0101
post Apr 27 2011, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(goohtj @ Apr 26 2011, 10:20 PM)
5-30w is pennzoil semi sync
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Pennzoil has a 5w-30 which is a Fully Syn oil.
omara86
post Apr 27 2011, 09:28 AM

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QUOTE(synex @ Apr 27 2011, 08:52 AM)
shocking.gif  shocking.gif 420km?? My 1st full tank only reached 240km and i'm driving a manual type. I noticed the car rev quite high or just maybe mine is still very new? Less than 2 weeks and haven't done the 1000km service. What is you guys car's rpm when then car is not moving?? Mine is at 1.8k and i think it is consider high. Can lower down? Please advice.  smile.gif
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i checked mine juz now... cold start at 1,100 rpm... normal temp idling at 800 - 900 rpm... 1.8k is really high...
synex
post Apr 27 2011, 10:10 AM

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QUOTE(omara86 @ Apr 27 2011, 09:28 AM)
i checked mine juz now... cold start at 1,100 rpm... normal temp idling at 800 - 900 rpm... 1.8k is really high...
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Think need to send back to the sc for checking later on..hmm blink.gif thanks omara smile.gif

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