QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Apr 26 2011, 08:03 PM)
HehehehehPROTON SAGA BLM & FL CLUB V12, welcome FL to the family
PROTON SAGA BLM & FL CLUB V12, welcome FL to the family
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Apr 26 2011, 09:09 PM
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Senior Member
707 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: Island of Borneo |
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Apr 26 2011, 09:33 PM
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Senior Member
7,951 posts Joined: Sep 2005 |
QUOTE(goohtj @ Apr 26 2011, 08:46 PM) I start off with 10-40w, hmm. i bought second hand, not sure what's its using :Sthen change to 20-50w(as reco by service manual) , car become very heavy.. no power. goback to 10-40w,, ok. change to 10-30w, wah, better performance.. then become more ambition, change to 5-30w. pickup good, but engine quite noisy. so now use 10-30w mineral , change every 5000km.. QUOTE(omara86 @ Apr 26 2011, 09:09 PM) |
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Apr 26 2011, 10:00 PM
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Senior Member
3,582 posts Joined: Oct 2007 From: everywhere in sabah |
QUOTE(goohtj @ Apr 26 2011, 08:46 PM) I start off with 10-40w, did u use the same brand all the way or u switch brand?then change to 20-50w(as reco by service manual) , car become very heavy.. no power. goback to 10-40w,, ok. change to 10-30w, wah, better performance.. then become more ambition, change to 5-30w. pickup good, but engine quite noisy. so now use 10-30w mineral , change every 5000km.. cuz what brand u use means everything abt the noise |
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Apr 26 2011, 10:12 PM
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Senior Member
4,560 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Kuching,Serdang UPM |
memang more nipis the oil more tappet sound la..summore you are not advice to use full syn for ur BLM. doing that u will damage ur engine rather than having a better engine. for safe, just stay with 15-40 or 10-30 (like what u reviewed).
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Apr 26 2011, 10:20 PM
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Junior Member
133 posts Joined: Aug 2005 |
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Apr 26 2011, 10:22 PM
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Junior Member
37 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
aiya, my fc RM55-RM60 only manage to climb till 230-240KM only.. is it bcos de car still need??
btw, do u guys face the prob..?? Auto.. from gear 1 to gear 2 need very long time just can switch, i mean to switch from gear 1 to gear 2.. Especially when the engine is cool.. is harder to switch.. and also.. the aircon will auto cut off and come out with warm air? few second for warm air.. any? the cold temp i already put at quite max.. |
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Apr 26 2011, 10:26 PM
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Senior Member
4,560 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Kuching,Serdang UPM |
jacq330
yes.o2 sensor still cold, that's why. never put ur aircond temp till max, just 2/3 of the knob will have max performance. |
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Apr 26 2011, 10:40 PM
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Junior Member
37 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
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Apr 26 2011, 11:03 PM
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Senior Member
3,582 posts Joined: Oct 2007 From: everywhere in sabah |
QUOTE(goohtj @ Apr 26 2011, 10:20 PM) try use other branddifferent brand have different effect Added on April 26, 2011, 11:05 pm QUOTE(jacq330 @ Apr 26 2011, 10:22 PM) aiya, my fc RM55-RM60 only manage to climb till 230-240KM only.. is it bcos de car still need?? 1st...your car still need few more service to archive better FCbtw, do u guys face the prob..?? Auto.. from gear 1 to gear 2 need very long time just can switch, i mean to switch from gear 1 to gear 2.. Especially when the engine is cool.. is harder to switch.. and also.. the aircon will auto cut off and come out with warm air? few second for warm air.. any? the cold temp i already put at quite max.. 2nd...gear change when engine still cold is very hard 3rd...do not turn the temp to max....your aircon's life will not be so long...just turn to middle...very cold already This post has been edited by MR_alien: Apr 26 2011, 11:05 PM |
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Apr 26 2011, 11:37 PM
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Junior Member
37 posts Joined: Feb 2011 |
QUOTE(MR_alien @ Apr 26 2011, 11:03 PM) try use other brand thank u for the reply different brand have different effect Added on April 26, 2011, 11:05 pm 1st...your car still need few more service to archive better FC 2nd...gear change when engine still cold is very hard 3rd...do not turn the temp to max....your aircon's life will not be so long...just turn to middle...very cold already |
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Apr 26 2011, 11:38 PM
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Senior Member
4,560 posts Joined: May 2007 From: Kuching,Serdang UPM |
jacq330
coz everything is by ECU, so for auto tranny, it depends on the gearbox. u needa heat up everything before going off. some drivers here advice to heat up an auto tranny saga for few secs before going off to the road. |
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Apr 27 2011, 12:49 AM
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Senior Member
1,715 posts Joined: Sep 2009 |
QUOTE(omara86 @ Apr 26 2011, 06:02 PM) Fot my car, i'm using syntium 800... Helix my fren told me, makes the engine sound harsher.. Dunno true or not.. i switched shell helix on my last 27k service, now the engine not so loud, lower rpm but fc not sure because i switched to the new petronas ron 95 xtra |
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Apr 27 2011, 02:04 AM
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Newbie
1 posts Joined: Oct 2010 From: Penang |
QUOTE(fesick @ Apr 26 2011, 06:05 PM) update : petronas 95 xtra : 30 L = 350km, but yesterday i pump again 30 L oil go vomit lar, i think my oil level indicator inaccurate? Why do you think your gauge is inaccurate? When the warning light is blinking you should be able to add 29-30 L, the rest is reserved and unrepresented on the gauge. QUOTE(SiuYi @ Apr 26 2011, 10:12 PM) memang more nipis the oil more tappet sound la..summore you are not advice to use full syn for ur BLM. doing that u will damage ur engine rather than having a better engine. for safe, just stay with 15-40 or 10-30 (like what u reviewed). I'd like to know exactly how synthetic oil can damage the engine. If it was so the SC wouldn't have given me synthetic on my request (15w50) during my 10k km service last month. QUOTE(jacq330 @ Apr 26 2011, 10:22 PM) aiya, my fc RM55-RM60 only manage to climb till 230-240KM only.. is it bcos de car still need?? Ouch, that's quite bad. Recently I've been hitting ~420 km on ~RM 60 (~33 L). Try and aim for at least 300 km after your car gets run in. That should be quite reasonable. btw, do u guys face the prob..?? Auto.. from gear 1 to gear 2 need very long time just can switch, i mean to switch from gear 1 to gear 2.. Especially when the engine is cool.. is harder to switch.. and also.. the aircon will auto cut off and come out with warm air? few second for warm air.. any? the cold temp i already put at quite max.. And your problem is one of the reasons why I vow that for as long as I can I'd avoid owning an automatic. Too little control is left in the hands of the driver. This post has been edited by lhwj: Apr 27 2011, 02:06 AM |
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Apr 27 2011, 06:29 AM
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Senior Member
3,706 posts Joined: Aug 2005 |
yeah..why using fully synthetic will damage the engine? how can it damage?
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Apr 27 2011, 06:32 AM
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Senior Member
707 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: Island of Borneo |
@Lhwj - 15w50 is recommended for our climate, doesnt matter mineral, semi or fill synth, thing that matter is the viscosity value..
10w40 15w40 15w50 Anything around that number... We dun hav winter here so juz disregard the number before W... The lightest for our climate is 30 but not for small displacement engine, like our beloved BLM... This post has been edited by omara86: Apr 27 2011, 07:56 AM |
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Apr 27 2011, 07:40 AM
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Senior Member
707 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: Island of Borneo |
QUOTE the winter grades of 5W, 10W and 20W are determined by the oils' viscosity at 0° Fahrenheit (-18°C), while grades 20,30, 40 and 50 are determined by its viscosity at 212° Fahrenheit (100°C). what on earth does the 0W rating denote? Well it's a special case denoting a difference in the 'pour point' of the oil. Most 5W oils have a pour point at -40°F (-40°C) The base oil is the same in 0W40, but it's pour point has been lowered even further - sometimes to as much as -50°F (-46°C) Pour point is 5°F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. Oil type Typically used in.... 5W-30 Cooler climates, like Sweden or Canada 10W-40 Temperate climates, like England 15W-50 Hot climates, like Italy, Spain, Egypt sos kicap tamin: http://www.carbibles.com/viscosity.html#ixzz1KGhqaJJe the conclusion for us in malaysia with hot climate is, use high viscosity oil so it wont get too thin in high temp and cause losing pressure.. ENEOS 0W-20 ENEOS 0W-50 ENEOS 5W-20 ENEOS 5W-30 ENEOS 5W-40 Mach 5 15W-40 Syntium 800 10W-40/15W-50 Syntium 1000 15W-50 Syntium 3000 5W-40 Syntium 5000 0W-30/0W-40 Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Shell Helix HX7 10W-40 Shell Helix HX5 and HX5 E 15W-40 Shell Helix HX3 20W-50 This post has been edited by omara86: Apr 27 2011, 07:55 AM |
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Apr 27 2011, 08:52 AM
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Senior Member
881 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: ~MoRRoWiND~ |
QUOTE(lhwj @ Apr 27 2011, 02:04 AM) Why do you think your gauge is inaccurate? When the warning light is blinking you should be able to add 29-30 L, the rest is reserved and unrepresented on the gauge. I'd like to know exactly how synthetic oil can damage the engine. If it was so the SC wouldn't have given me synthetic on my request (15w50) during my 10k km service last month. Ouch, that's quite bad. Recently I've been hitting ~420 km on ~RM 60 (~33 L). Try and aim for at least 300 km after your car gets run in. That should be quite reasonable. And your problem is one of the reasons why I vow that for as long as I can I'd avoid owning an automatic. Too little control is left in the hands of the driver. |
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Apr 27 2011, 09:05 AM
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Staff
1,368 posts Joined: Nov 2004 From: A' Ghàidhealtachd |
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Apr 27 2011, 09:28 AM
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Senior Member
707 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: Island of Borneo |
QUOTE(synex @ Apr 27 2011, 08:52 AM) |
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Apr 27 2011, 10:10 AM
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Senior Member
881 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: ~MoRRoWiND~ |
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