actually the eneloop 2-hours charger is not really an 2-hours charger (MQR-06)
according to http://www.eneloop.info/products/chargers/...with-mqr06.html

Charging Time

220 minutes (1-4 AA)
110 minutes (2 AA)
75 minutes (1 AA)
200 minutes (1-4 AAA)
100 minutes (2 AAA)
65 minutes (1 AAA)
thats mean, only when 2 AA only 2 hours

lol, means is share power,... lousy la, maha better, each independent single. never share. constant. 90 minute means 90minute.

.......

This post has been edited by empty-ball: Feb 26 2011, 12:51 AM

Blur/Subject not in Focus....try to give attention to the subjects Face when taking portraits...

Not easy to focus on the subject perfect while trying to bluring the background...any skill...

Focus on the model's face, and snap. Whats so difficult? the background will still be blur. Dont worry

I do it the same thing leh...
is my focus point setting on my cam got problem...??
I set in the middle...
there are many of grid to choose to focus...

guys, help me
which of this lens is the best?

sigma 70-300 APO DG macro f4.5-5.6
tamron 70-300 Di macro f4.5-5.6
new minolta 75-300 f4.5-5.6

all lenses is on the same range price (less than 1k)
same aperture and focal lenght
but the sigma is APO
and both sigma and tamron are macro
minolta had a great reputation in dyxum, but for the price, is it worthed?

very confusing

I need your review, thanks a lot

This post has been edited by fatnir: Feb 25 2011, 11:07 PM

hmm mine can do a 60 minute quick charge or 6 hour slow charge. all independent powered.

can increase 1 more stop for exposure..will result in better skin tone...fairer..and try frame that model to the left..

use local AF mode...select the points on the model's face..lol..

u can try more...then u will get the feel...just shoot more..

No worries, nothing wrong. Just use the middle one. Because for you to use local is toooo troublesome. Too many steps just to change one af point. Focus, recompose, and snaaaaap.

1 more stop is mean wat ???
sry i m newbie....
ok will try shoot more, u mean change the mini mini square for the focus point ??

iso100 to iso200 to iso 400 to iso800
F2.8 to F4 to F5.6 to F8 to F11
1/8 to 1/15 to 1/30 to 1/60 to 1/125 to1/250

all above is 1 stop.

oohh...i get it nw...thx for the explanation...

newbieee, there's nothin wrong to use the centre focal point IF your subject is at some distance away. But if your subject is less than 1m away, using the middle to lock focus and then recompose, your focal will shift and then your focus point will not be at where you want it to be.

that's when manual focus comes in handy.

dont simply say like that la...if he uses 18mm f5.6 how to get bg blur?kasi details la...haiyo...

empty-ball : zoom your lens to the longest focal you can then snap...you need to learn the different distance that effects bokeh...

bigger aperture = more light = better in most of the time
faster shutter speed = avoid shake = better in most of the time
iso lower = less noise = better in most of the time

55mm (for 18-55) and get closer to the subject (of course, in your compo) and focus subject give the most "blur" to background

Just like wat iER say..but u may use +0.3 or +0.7 EV..when in A mode, can hold 1 button and turn the dial..u will see that meter..but i duno wat name is tat button..xD..i always use it..

This is correct..anyway, just adapt to situation..theory is die 1..u r alive..on worse situation, turn on MF..be confident..stare into the area u wan to focus, turn the ring til that area get into focus..and snap a few more to get the best shot..

ahpingko, u mean eV compensate button?