The bigger the heli the harder they fall.... (more money also lah)

The smaller the heli the less damage they crash....

but.....

the bigger heli... the better it handle...

the smaller the heli the harder for it to control (apple to apple = 6ch to 6ch heli)

also...

if you learn with small heli and move to big ass heli you can control better

if u can fly/hover a 4g3 u can fly/hover anything ... huahahahahaa

something like that provided you hover 500 size heli your balls dont shrink!!! hahahaha

already tried trex 600E ... no probs
in fact the 600 feels like a big elephant .. slow motion but the floating power is incredible .. pump it and it goes up like rocket

Why hovering a bigger heli the ball will shrink?
It suppose to be easier unless i am flying in the real cockpit

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Added on May 5, 2011, 9:31 amHehehe, that 600E using the latest 600MX motor? Some people complaint the 600M motor lacking of power for 600 size heli. But I think Align is coming out with 650E soon ...... poison loh .......

This post has been edited by daddoo: May 5 2011, 09:31 AM

no .. the 600E i tried was using scorpion .. for sure not underpowered
did not try any funny things ... just the normal hover and FF .. not my heli and i no $$$ to replace/repair if i crash it ... hahahahaa

Hehehe, if no $$$ then give your fren your 450 Pro as the repair cost .....
Wonder what would be the average repair cost of a 600 electric heli.

I guess should be AT LEAST RM300 or 400 plus since the bigger the heli the heavier the impact ......

300-400 will just be enough to buy the blades ... other things not included .. hahahahahaaa

Errrrr ..... my assumption like that,
Align CF blade is around RM180.
Feathering Shaft is RM20.
Main Shaft is RM40.
Flybar rod is RM20
Flybar paddle is RM50.
Main gear is RM40.

So add up around RM350. How come the 600 size main blade you mentioned so expensive one? Edge/Radix rotor blade?

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Added on May 5, 2011, 12:31 pm
Any idea if this carbon fiber tail boom can be used for Trex 450 Pro?

http://www.hobbysportz.com/index.php?main_...products_id=367




This post has been edited by daddoo: May 5 2011, 12:31 PM

the blades that fella use aftermarket one ... curtiss i think so it will not b CHEAP ... hahahahaha
whats wrong with the tail boom on your PRO ?? no good ah ??
if it does nothing wrong then why bother to kakacaucau it ?? hehehehe
later change already got probs come then u know
but it can be used laa ... v2 and PRO share the same tail boom

That one should be curtis youngblood's radix. It around RM300 and you are right.

No lah, I wont kacau the tail of the heli from now until it crashes. Just surveying the carbon fiber tail boom as Align does not look like selling it. The carbon fiber tail boom seems harder and lighter, also I heard that during a crash you don't have to worry the boom is bent or not. A carbon fiber boom will either breaking apart or still good to be used.

But I have ordered the tarot's lengthened battery metal tray for my Pro, at this moment the battery is tight fit with canopy and a bit hard to adjust the CG. Always tail heavier in the air .... the swash should be leveled because it is setup using swash plate leveler.

I say man you should say earlier.. I have 1 Tarot metal battery tray (for pro) the hobby shop send me the wrong ones when I order for sport version...

thanks first, but just the battery tray cannot use lah. Tarot's lengthened tray has to order another part -> canopy clip which is metal also ....... or else you have to cut your align stock plastic battery tray to make the canopy clip.

Hehehehehe, why din you return to the shop and ask for refund?

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Added on May 5, 2011, 3:40 pm
Back to the main blade ah ... what's wrong with the Align's CF blade?

And what so special with those EDGE, RADIX blade? Price really in huge different and so far I only know that the Align's blade is not all the time well balanced. My 450 Pro has some electrical tape on the blade so it looks ugly a bit

This post has been edited by daddoo: May 5 2011, 03:40 PM

use transparent scotch tape laa .. almost cannot see
align blades not bad what ... i using them for so so so long already

If you have a servo tester then everything will be easy.
Or else if you have a tx/rx system it will do your job as well.

Other than that i think you have to supply the PWM pulse (not sure how you are going to do this) to the signal line already, and dont forget to supply operating voltage and ground.

servo tester would be easiest way to do it
i have one

Mr. IR.diode, I just found some information about rc servo. Take a look and verify the information yourself.

http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_RC_Servos_Works/

There is a very very simple "servo tester" circuitry and it may be suitable for your application, the components to build this is easy to get from electronics shop.

Hehehe, is that your final year project to use a servo?
Take note that the circuitry provided to connect to the servo has different connections. Usually I found my servo has the control signal at the side and 5V supply in the middle, the other one is ground.



This post has been edited by daddoo: May 6 2011, 09:57 AM

that middle signal thing applies to mostly walkera stuff
so far standard has been mostly middle is live wire

Alright, then just continue the discussion in electronics forum, hehehe this is a RC forum

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Added on May 6, 2011, 2:21 pmAiya, shit ..... now only I found that I forgot to adjust my end point.
By right I should center the swash and level the swash plate at mid stick. Then high stick & low stick to adjust the swash plate using travel adjust/end point. But I din and only level the swash at mid stick ........

Hehehehehe, what would be the problem if so? Heli not stable during high stick and low stick?

How to remedy? Just fly and observe then adjust the end point from time to time?

This post has been edited by daddoo: May 6 2011, 02:21 PM

DO NOT adjust servo end points for your pitch adjustments
leave your end points at 100%
control your pitch using the swash mix ... ie. if u think u want lesser pitch (both +/-) then u lower the value in your swash mix ... NOT ADJUST END POINTS
ideally your + and - pitch should be equal ... adjusting the swash mix does that for u automatically IF u had set up your mid stick (cyclic servos all centered with zero pitch) properly
but of coz perfect center stick with perfect center servos and perfect zero pitch can almost be achieved all at the same time so we give and take a little laa ... VERY VERY LITTLE of coz ... hahahahaa