that is correct ...
i do know some ppl who just buy trex500/550 just to hover hover around even after 3-4 yrs of heli .. hahahahaahaa

I thought I am the slowest one already loh .... kekekkekekek

Those that you mentioned really surprising me!!!

no la .. that person can fly but he just concentrate on hovering and repair and upgrade and hover and upgrade and hover and upgrade ... hahahahaa
that one is HOVER MASTER ... drift 0.001 degrees oso he can see ... huahahahahahaaa

Hehe, like that when they sell heli must aim already loh. Superb condition.

This gp780 has a feature i like a lot. Maybe other gyro got also lah. When my tail slider is not even on both side of the travel, then you can set separately to make sure each side you can go to full travel. This is really a big advantage to 2801 pro user as the travel adjust in that tx is use to set the travel speed.

I have my 4g6 setup in rate mode but too bad i have one side always not reaching the end. But nothing i can do if i want to setup in rate mode.

gp750 oso have that feature ... too bad gp750 discontinued .. its a good gyro

that PERSON sometimes sells stuff in MRC one ...
yes ... his stuff normally very good condition

yeah vibration on heli does contribute to tail drifting... but very minor need to adjust gyro sensitivity... fount my sweet spot at 75...

also I have added double foam to reduce vibration to gyro.. so far it works...

did some minor upgrade mainly the tail boom holder change it to Tarot metal holder (more holding power and no freeplay)

change the stock leather belt to e-sky BCP v2 belt (rubber belt is some what more lasting - got a member been flying more than 1 year hard 3d with belt cp belt no wear & tear)

change landing skids to v450d01 landing skids (look nicer also ) - I got extra

redo wiring setup previously wiring is outside now hide inside body...

bought a new charger (Dualsky n61e balance charger) with turnigy 6s to 2x3s converter...

now i'm ready to hover (hover only.... now doing side hovering skill)

Try to look for kevlar belt if any ...... much more stronger !!!

kevlar belt strong but no freeplay... also not cheap

belt cp belt only cost RM15 can fly 1 year ++ no damage what more can you ask.... cheap laaaaaa

Hehehe, just my suggestion only Forget it if it is not making sense to you ..

Wow, the loctite I bought from Hobby King damn a lot, man. It is only USD0.99 and I think I cant finish it for the rest of my life ....... really really worth like Qiw said ....

yeap.... I have that too used it for more than 1 year like the amount din went down also kekeke

Finally finished my 450 pro build. But damn it, blade tracking not done properly. Even at low low spinning speed i can already see the problem.

Both main blade pitch are identical in low mid and high stick. weight the blade and it is only .2 gram difference. But see it on the blade balancer i can see one is slightly higher, tilt a little little bit.

just track the power blade to the higher one when u hover in normal position
it will all track nicely once u have done that .. no need to worry about full +ve and -ve pitch once u have done that in the 1st place b4u do your tracking
there will only be very very minor full pitch reading compared to the reading u have taken when u 1st set up the heli

Alright, adjusted the long link and maiden this morning.

It's really WYPIWYG. My hardwork to build this heli using 3 weeks pay back 90% of enjoyment to me. It just that if suddenly I hantam the throttle stick from 60% to 80% then the tail will let go a bit and then back to the original point. That means the tail goes to right a little bit and then adjusted back by the gyro I think.

The gyro gain already adjusted to max (until I see wagging) and delay also max. Is that because I am running to high headspeed? My throttle curve is linear from 0 to 100%.

0-40-75-80-85 ... thats my curve on normal mode
95-92.5-90-92.5-95 ... this one my idle up curve

if u are running linear curve maybe headspeed during normal mode changes too suddenly and tail not enuff speed oso ... thats why buang abit
but buang abit (1-2 inch) when u whack throttle then go back to ori position is normal laaa ... hehehehe
your BCP headspeed nowhere close to the HS of the PRO ... stability and performance oso nowhere close of coz

Ohhh, my normal mode max throttle stick is 100 and your only 85. Alright, if tomolo the tail still buang then i will lower the throttle curve already.

At this moment, i have shorten my tail link to give more pitch to counter faster when it is center. Previously it was zero tail pitch when center.

Hehehe, now i have experienced both bcp and trex so i totally agree with you. You get what you pay. Bcp seem heavier and hard to control in the mid air but trex is light and easy to control. Especially this morning after i flown my trex first, then i start to notice already -->aiyer why my 4g6 and bcp like that one .......wahahahahahahahahahahahaha

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Added on April 23, 2011, 6:43 pm

Hehehe, and some photos i post to HF to show off to gwai low .....
Wiring
Trex Pro Photo

This post has been edited by daddoo: Apr 23 2011, 08:22 PM

do not use a linear curve on your throttle ... u need to maintain headspeed and only play with pitch
put it like mine ad u will see a difference

the align ESC .. set 1-2-2-2-3 .. or the throttle response u can set fast instead of normal
check your batt voltage coz the align 450m motor quite a power sucker and hot .. planning to change mine still have not gotten to it yet .. hehehe

I think i roughly know what is the difference.
As what i have seen my trex was losing altitude very fast when i reduce throttle. Due to that i have to increase throttle again and to me it is somewhat not so manageable.

Hmmmmm, got to experiment again tomolo ........ Hehehehe

i see your wiring ... thats the recommended align and finless way
but ....
u do not live in taiwan or some cold places .. soon u will find your motor cut coz ESC too hot .. hahahahahaaa
put the ESC outside where it can get airflow (even some of the kwai lohs are doing it) ... your wiring very nice .. thats what i did the 1st time oso ... then touched the ESC ... super hot .. when that happens ESC temp cut will come in very soon ... then ... CRAAASSSHHHHHH ... huahahahahaa

Opppssss, i do think about this esc cut off at the first place but not realize it is not for tropical country like us. I thought the manual suggested so it should be fine.

But anyway if i add a separate bec will it helps to reduce heat in the esc significantly?
I believe the 2A bec in the esc is a bit overload with the electronics. For example i found the esc heat up when i just connect 3 servo during my head setup.

yup ... the BEC oso heats up the ESC
i am using separate BEC for my PRO ... helps alot but the ESC still hot for me laa .. hahahahaaa