What nonsense? U think I lied? Or u think my expectation is soooo high?! Did I say not so hot day? Then might as well dont use tint at all. What for u paid thousands to get this kind of tint?  So are u the Tint Master salesman? The way u talked just like salesman after sales service. Typical salesman
Again, I DONT RECOMMEND Tint Master!

For BLM u can use a higher UF VS..that shud do the trick.
it can less the jerk u mention.
There r DIY VS selling in www.Blmclub.co.cc

For Auto, u can reach around 350-370km for full tank...thats my car laaa.. i donno bout others.
For manual i heard some can reach almost around 500km..atleast thats what i heard.

when compressor kicks in, high current (ampere) is drawn from the electrical system, hence a drop in the voltage in that split second n you feel the power lose or jerk. a battery works like a spare tank  to fill the gap. but a battery only fill in at 12.5v andbelow. our normal operating situation the voltage is 13~14v so from12.5v~13v the electrical system will depends only on the alternater n ecu voltage correcting system which have 1-2seconds delay.
a high capacitor or VS helps to fill i the 13-14v gap. so reduce the power loss/jerk.
those commercial selling VS had <100,000uf helps a little in this jerk.
I had DIYed a 60,000uf VS for my BLM, not much help.

for BLM- low power car with High power loading Air con.. what u expect?

for curious guys, test before u buy loh....

that it.. the 0.5v 0.5sec dip causes the drag. if u fill up this, then u will feel smooth.. see, the higher the caps will fill up this gap, the smaller gap, less jerk. good grounding cable also helps.
another good point for VS is, it acts as a filter for most surge/transcient voltage, smoothen the spicky voltage hence reduce the failure of electrical/electronic items eg. bulb/radio/ecu/battery......it is still recommended to have one to protects. eg. when compressor on/off/on/off time, spicky/dirty voltage occurs n this would be transfer to all components connected, a VS will absorbs it. Try connect our BLM to a osciloscope to see the edgy spike voltage.
(a analog sanwa meter don't help.)

sometimes, when i'm accelerating... for example... pulling 2nd gear... when the rpm around 3k... got a small sound like tikus, "cit" once, can feel power loss abit when the "cit" sound come out... then the rpm naik like usual...

not a major prob but kinda strange to hear that sound... syok2 tarik RPM then the "cit" sound come... kalau blow-off ok la... ni bunyi tikus....

btw it happens to 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear only... random... not always or everytime changing gear...

not sure the sound loud or not from the outside... coz i never ever get the chance to hear to my own car from the outside since he born...

a.) Auto-If you tend to drive at traffic jam prone areas. Manual-If you want to save more on fuel consumption. And more powerful I presume. Coz mine was auto and I can tell you its very underpower.

b.) It depends on your preference. Can't give much suggestion here.

c.) You can ask other members who did add bodykit to their Saga.

d.) Our ICE unit is considered the above average sound system compared to Myvi's cap ayam sound system. =)

Sorry for unable to answer part c and d questions. Hope this helps. 

Well, I guess that explains why our FC is so high especially for auto Saga.

Sometimes I feel that even revved to 3K rpm, it seems to be no power at all (just roaring sound). So overtaking  using auto is a kind of skill that need to learn especially with Proton Saga's heavy car and underpower engine. I will often press the A/C off before overtaking. =.=

He's using auto, so I don't think it's clutch slip. It's probably a combination of Drive by Wire delay + Torque Converter power loss.

an auto always and an auto regardless its from MMC or not, but actually the gearbox is suitable or good enough for 1.6L..

Yeah, with a 1.6 CPS Engine!!
I believe there are paint products selling in hypermarkets that can help repair the paint. Not sure what it's called.

Just follow the color code for the Saga, since Saga is very common.

My driver door when open got a sound nyek nyek already! Hmm....anybody facing this problem before?

I just replace my IAFM last week. Its only rm258+ or something. Wow quite cheap. I was scared they were going to charge me rm600-rm1500+ for the item. I service outside so theres no warranty for it. BTW i hate those Proton basher that says proton milo tin, last 2 mth my saga hantam another saga very hi speed but the body is strong and the front bonet kemek around 1/3, but the cabin, my windscreen everything fine, nothing happened to me not even a songle scratch. For the ppl that say proton having zinc roof when rain pours in, thats another b*llsh*t as even my mazda3 and my fren lancer have dat zinc roof sound when rains pours in.

engine no damage, didn't even reach the engine.

morning all blm'ers !!

I am looking to buy a Saga Blm m-line MT.

Is the IAFM issue solve in current latest batch ?

I am kinda worry now..

yesw ont differ much, i heard from eon glenmarie , its rm250

---

Added on October 15, 2010, 10:11 am

should be ok for the latest batch ..dont worry

Many thanks for the link !

Zircon Green A0151
Metallic Black A0160
Granite Grey A0141
Genetic Silver A0126
Chilli Red (not found)
Solid White (no found)
& Mountain Blue A0154

Taken frm blm forum, posted by siuyi himself 

i'd like to post this here for future reference 

drive a manual BLM is not same like u drive a wira 1.5

due to short gear ratio,i change gear very frequent and fast.

1st gear : around 2-2.5k switch
2nd gear: 3k swicth
3rd gear : around 3k switch
4rd gear: 3k-3.4k swithc
5rd gear: depends on speed. drive at 80-90km/h is the most "save fuel" region of speed.

simple say: make ur car gear changing is smooth

Right....I am guessing that ur ride is on ron95? Any difference on the rev? At best, my car seems to pick up good speed starting from 3k PRM onwards & mine is an auto. Urs?

Recently replaced brake pads & shoes with Bendix (Titanium) better bite but the screeching sound of metal-like is still obvious. Any solution apart from changing the rear drum to disc?

Anyone having issues where the Air cond when switched on smells weird?
Mine when i switch on the air cond blower(without the air cond power) there's a smell like musty wet clothes smell. I've tried checking the filter but found nothing.

Just did my 1000KM Service....very satisfied with it!

Now the car more powerful than before service.

This is what I change:

1.) Shell Helix Semi Synthetic HX7 Oil - RM99.00
2.) Fuel Injector Cleaner - RM17.80
3.) Oil Treatment - RM19.80
4.) Oil Filter - RM12.22
5.) Gasket Plug Oil Dra - RM3.32
6.) ScreenWash 300ML - RM5.20

TOTAL = RM157.34

Well, I heard some of you say some are unnessasary items but hey, I think overall it's not expensive and quite cheap though. If you do outside, it would be slighly expensive. I am satisfied with what I changed and now my car are running very much smoothly. Love my new SAGA babeh!

Previously I have reported that my car jerk while driving due to the heavy compressor and now it had been solved by changing motor oil.

For those who have not done their 1st service, YES! I have to admit that your car has no power or underpower but after your 1st service, you will feel the difference as it's more powerful.

Yeah! First service today 

my hate for the underpowered low gears are gone!! i can barely believe it
replacing my lost booklet was a BREEZE. All i did is show my loan agreement, pay 15 ringgit and got a replacement together with all 3 labour vouchers inside, collect it on next service. servicing cost RM137.
yeah damn happy with my branch so far.

@coolkwc
how much more expensive? I see on my receipt, the labour charge is rm18.00 only.

issit normal for blm to have some krengg krengg sound (some besi ketuk besi/longgar sound) when drive through hole or bump ? ( i think mostly from behind)

or some of my item spoils already ?