From this angle, very tempting and pretty...

Let it be that, why bother to convert.

Same as u put 205/45/16 tyre, also experiment car ma, now at least BLMers know IT DOESN"T WORK.

Be careful he might broken the handle soon.

Actually all those 'hard to open' issue is due to wrong way to open the door. They tends to pull the handle from center.

Thanks for pic.

Enforce at red area by 4 finger, with your thumb press at the fixed handle at the left, i have no problem to open my door by this way. SA told me during i take my new car.

And chrome handle won't fix ur problem.

Guys, u know wut, a fly dead INSIDE MY TAIL LAMP. is INSIDE.

Of cos there are alot of non proton workshop who can do the service, i don think you need to worry too much.

They back to Proton SC service just to retain warranty, not becos their good workmanship.

Those thing can be adjusted DIY, but u have to know how la, if not better do outside. Last time i adjust by my self, the spring as well, there are two holes there, default they hook the spring in less tension hole (more inside), i dismantle by myself and hook it at 2nd hole, now the lid can stand strongly even the car park decline.

Why today BLMer's so active to post here. Long time didn't see this condition adi.

Not weird, for pickup is slightly better but FC is no different for me, even with full sync 5-40w now.

Even oil manufacturer stated u only can get better FC by using <40w, which is X-30w oil.

Anyway, different between full sync and semi sync is quite noticeable. Full sync long lasting, now my car adi 6.5k, the power still same as new oil change, if semi sync, >3k u can feel the engine sound is rough and less power.

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Added on December 8, 2010, 2:54 pmI will never use Shell 10-40w semi anymore. Worst than Petronas 15-50W semi.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 8 2010, 02:54 PM

Because feeling is subjective.

Don't compromise. MT and AT is like boy and girl, once u got AT there is no way u can regret.

Get back the deposit, is his fault, there are so many SA around, find another.

if only 1 time from stop to steady speed, u rev until 4k also no problem. But if city drive which not much acceleration with steady slow pace, shift early, even after shift <2k also no problem.

@ slow pace traffic, i adi engage 3rd gear even only @ 30km/h, rpm around 1.6k, as long as u didn't pickup rapidly, low RPM won't hurt the FC, but reduce. Unless otherwise stated.

As long as the engine not vibrate, it means adequate torque at that RPM @ that speed.

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Added on December 9, 2010, 9:49 amNope. As long as the RPM didn't fall below 1k, no need to worry about engine stall. at garden road i seldom shift gear one, sometimes 3rd even slower than 30km/h, about 1.2k RPM only.

As i said, if ur engine is vibrate or choke, then its time to change gear, otherwise if just smooth and steady pace, even 40km/h @ 5th gear also no problem.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 9 2010, 09:49 AM

Brake fluid is unnecesary, it can more than 40k. For radiator coolant, very cheap item only, change or not change also ok. But if u bring to Proton SC, there sure will change the raiator coolant, no room to negotiate if u want warranty.

Yes for manual and no for Auto.

6k RPM @ 180km/h and pointless to drive BLM at such speed.

BLM rev cut is 7k flat, if really reach that @ 5th gear can get 210km/h flat. For 5th gear, every 1k increase in RPM = +30km/h.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Dec 11 2010, 04:07 AM

Sorry, no way you can achieve that.

You can try that. I did so many times before, i only manage to get what the spec stated, minimum 6L/100km @ 90km/h. That time is 1000km mileage car, so i drove from JB to Ipoh at highway @ 90km/h max. Now i normally drive no more than 3.4k rpm @ 105km/h. what i get is slightly higher FC 6.1-6.3L/100km.