before looking to buy any parts of WC, planning first.. where u going to put your radiator, reservoir, pump.
fyi, drive bay reservoir is not easy to fill coolant.

duralene, tygon & feser all is known branded tubing... Tygon black is expensive as well as feser... duralene is much cheaper....

yes most ppl here get 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD tube.. i also using that tube... duralene 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD

better draw out a layout plan indicate where u likely to put your parts... because this layout plan will help u get some idea how many angle or 45 degree fittings u need.....

dont look down swiftech mcres.. this reservoir much better than those drive bay reservoir in terms of bleeding performance... 

I going to mod my whole casing or get a new casing for it . If drive bat reservoir , I will going to get a fill port for it like this : http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/prod...?product_id=735
I also thinking to get 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD before , but dunno which is more better and now I know it . Where can I get Duralene tube and is it clear tubing ?

for drive bay res, you'd be better with a fill port. filling the res without fill port is a pain. clear tubing might get cloudy after a few weeks. i'd recommend primochill tubes, very flexible

Where can I get PrimoChill tubing ? How about Tygon ? I saw a lot ppl using it

Duralene is clear tube can get from clawhammer.. price reasonable...
Tygon and primochill get from vlad price also reasonable.... but tygon much expensive.

if u like black tube, either get feser or tygon...

the bigger the tube, the faster of flowing..

Any chance of laying your case horizontally to make bubble go?

Guys, need help. It's been 3 days since i put my loop back together but there is a big air bubble in my crosshair 4 formula block.

I'm using bitspower  water tank z reservoir.

I have:
-removed the stopper on top of the reservoir
-ran the pc for almost 48 hours (bleed)
-tilted the casing back and forth and sideways
Still no luck.

It's in the block, not the tubes (dunnoe whether this will make a difference or not)

Any help/recommendations/comments is highly appreciated

Hmm had this issue with XT before. Found out that the XT was clogged with dirt from loop, which restricting my flow and coz bubbles from outlet of XT up to my top 360 rad.



Btw here's my latest setup 

Will try this. Kinda desperate now. temps have been through the roof

Hmm had this issue with XT before. Found out that the XT was clogged with dirt from loop, which restricting my flow and coz bubbles from outlet of XT up to my top 360 rad.



Btw here's my latest setup 

my suggestion, connect a tube from the filling port of ur res, lay the case flat, overfill it, and run the pump. Let it bleed... the bubble might just escape this way...

That could also be the problem. I'm kinda suspecting something clogged my EK HF. Because my route is:

Res --> Pump --> Rad --> GPU --> CPU --> Mobo --> Res

So i think maybe there's something stuck in my CPU block refraining water to go through it 100%.

This is where the bubbles are:

Btw, how did you overcome your problem? Did you remove the CPU block and clean it? Bummer! That's going to be a hassle

Also using the HF...maybe it's time i gave it a scrub. But what a daunting task that will be
Btw, just wondering, could the 90 degree rotaries both from the CPU block and into the MOBO block cos this?
Could the bubbles be there because the rotary fittings increase restrictions to my loop?

Here's a clearer pic if u don't understand:

Hi all, want some opinion. Currently using 240 rad as in sig. Will there any major improvement on temp if i upgrade to Swiftech 320?

juz asking,wht ur current temp...