personally la, if it's so confusing to even understand what product someone is selling, i might as well look elsewhere

I am currently using the LM Toptec 4100 for my diesel car. I just followed the specification which is LL04 as stated in my car manual.

Problem is you can also use the 4200 since it also states LL04.

Anyway, your E90 is not with a DPF, correct?

Yeah all the diesel variants sold here in Malaysia have the DPF removed.

latest I'm using Fukuoka Pro V3000 semi 10w-40 on my MyVi..the paddle felt a bit light..i can feel it..later will try on my Jazz..

Dear Sifu,

any engine oil recommend for suzuki swift (2nd gen) mileage approx 26000
, suggestion to increase fuel consumption if possible.
currently FC 9.5/L , 90% road 10% highway, 50% jam 50% smooth

anything that has the label 20w60 or 10w60

Sifus,

What's the best fully syn oil?

Me driving Mazda 3 2.0 ... heavy right foot

Any reason why a Swift requires so heavy engine oil?

Kinda hard to pinpoint which is the best but for my pocket, I use 5W30 fully synthetic from Mobil 1 for Mazda6 2.5L (for 6 years) as well as Mazda5 2.0L (for 5 years). Fully satisfied with it.

that's his preference.

LOL Took a 2nd look and he mentioned "increase fuel consumption".

Why would anyone do that? Surely that's a typo right?

dunno him

random update:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...oyal%2520purple

Royal purple is listed again, however it looks like it is expiring soon?

(i did an update on September 2013 and RP was not listed... and now it is lol)

http://www.pqiamerica.com/
good site for product data references

empire23
bro, you still running mainly on RP XPR and Motul 300v's?

how was the UOA for the sprint w15's?

tried out Torco's SR5 before? particularly the new SR5r's?

any other EO that you've tried/recommend?

what other MT oils you've tried? so far the red line MTL is serving me well and i just actually saw your comment on the MT90 some years ago being better than the motul.
other gear oils you've got your hands on?

The R34 is being sent to the repairs as it was stolen and the cops have recovered it. I'll service it after it gets fixed.

The Evo X is using the 10W-30 300V Power Race because the 0W-20 High RPM gives a lower TBN for the same duration. The differential and transfer case use Motul Gear Competition 75W-140 and I can't find any fault in operation.

The Ducati Monster is using a 50/50 mix of Redline 10W-40 and 20W-50 Motorcycle oil. The performance isn't as crisp as the 300V but the performance doesn't drop off after 4 months unlike the 300V.

Have not tried out Torco but after I get my BMW I might try out a few new things.

As I got a new job and work 2 weeks on and 2 weeks off I mostly drive the company Hilux these days lol

thanks for the reply bro
and glad to hear that you managed to find your stolen car.

btw how different is the evo x manual gearbox compared to the lancer/inspira's F5MBB 5 speed manual?
the service manual did specified 75w80 which was a pain to find, and not to mention there's concerns on the soft/yellow metals of the synchros
do you think using GL5/GL6 lubes with EP additives be a concern on the synchros?

at the moment i'm on the redline MTL with lubegard manual additive, shifts were much smoother than it was on the stock loaded lubricant.
however i have to wonder if our hotter weather, and/or the lubegard additive is possible to worsen an already potential damage/defect of the gear box (namely some weird potential "geabox whine" that some follks have help identified.)

perhaps you can help fill in some guesswork/speculations as to what the actual problem might be?

has to be over 160kph, intermittent, doesn't matter what rpm at 4th/5th gear (lil hard for 3rd to go at that speed without fuel cutting)
wheel bearing was excluded because majority of opinion is that it should be very apparent at 60-80kph onwards and doesn't require 160kph
Proton claims (or bullshit) it's the wind noise generated by the underside body panels/covers/heat shields etc, regardless, getting them to replace the gearbox will be no easy feat.

So if let's say it is the geabox problem (supposedly the input shaft having defect/tolerance problem?) would using other gear box lubricant help fix/mask the issue? from what i gathered, it's impossible as that's the part connecting to the engine and there's no way for regular service lubricants to affect it in any way.

for the 300v on your bike's case, mainly due to the lack of detergents due to it being a race oil? what's your take on such EO going through 10k km/6 month on a *for the most part* weekend ride 4b10 engine?

interesting job btw

The Evo manual GB should be vastly different because it is designed to mate to the SAWC transfer case for 4 wheel drive. I believe it also has increased synchros, larger baulk rings and so forth to meet the needs of the Evo.

I own an Evo X MR thus mine comes with the German built DCT unit by Getrag. Usually use Castrol Transmax Dual or Pentosin FFL-4 for it.

I wouldn't add any additives to any gear oil as the package is already pretty tailored to the duty at hand to meet specification. My issue usually with additives is that they may or may not match the chemical composition and lifetime of the oil they're added into. Making performance slightly iffy and inconsistent. If you can get an oil to match your conditions, pay the extra coin up front.

If you're getting a whine above 160kmph and it doesn't matter at what RPM I would say that it might be the driven part of the driveline (eg; CV joints/axles/output shaft/outshaft bearings). It might still be the input shaft but then again the whine would change if you were to switch gears or engage/disengage the clutch.

Usually for whinny or crunching trannies I'd just use the Redline Shockproof to cover it up and it goes fine. The effect may vary though. Worked on my Nissan and many other SAU members rides without issue.

300V on a weekender should be fine. I usually trash my bike's tranny really hard in many attempts to wheelie everywhere and since bike oil doubles as transmission and engine oil, it is somewhat expected that the EO life isn't very long in it.

My job isn't really interesting. But it gets me a lot of time tuning engines and working with gears and hydraulics for the OnG industry. Definitely a lot more boring than my last gig.

supposedly the larger/increased synchros would probably be using non soft/yellow metals (brass, copper etc) so using GL5/6 gear oils with higher EP additives etc would not have increased corrosion effect?
considering the synchro/GL4 requirements and very thin viscosity, would you consider the supposedly better (although the added EP additives may be a double edge sword against the soft/yellow metals as mentioned) GL5/6 higher performance/full synthetic gear oils?

currently i have this gathered/summarized:
- AMSOIL lowest also 90
- same for chemlube full ester based synthetics
- same goes for eneos GL5 synchromesh compatible gear oil

- royal purple max gear lighest is 90, and this is a bit interesting:
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/wp-cont..._Synchromax.pdf
xw40 similar to ATF specifications

Interesting on the French' gearboxes/lubes
- Total: http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/fic...lang_1/1205.pdf
not much info on this, total website is so shit i rage browsing it.
- ELF: ah reminds me of the proton default lubricant (are they still using it?) - TRANSELF NFJ 75W-80
http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/content/NT0000C9DA.pdf
http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/content/NT0000E0F2.pdf
http://www.totaloil.com.au/Pages/australia...=EN&$#E3B6

really bad site design:
http://www.new-elf.com/

summary of suitable Gear oil for the F5MBB Aisin 5 speed manual Transmission:

Brand	Model Name	base stocks/remarks
Redline	MTL	Fully synthetic
Motul	MOTYLGEAR 75W-80	semi-synthetic
Liqui moly	Getriebeöl (GL5) 75 W-80	semi-synthetic
ELF	TRANSELF NFJ 75W-80	synthetic technology (no info on base stocks)
Mitsubishi	Diaqueen 75w80 GL-3	no info on this at all besides this is the original manufacturer's specified lube
Pennzoil	SYNCHROMESH FLUID	Should be mineral based, however using synthetic technology. may google "paraffinic base stocks"
Torco	MTF	Group 3 Mineral based, VI is on the low side though.

references:
Redline
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/te...duct%20Data.pdf
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/te...MSDS%203-13.pdf
http://www.redlineoil.com/content/files/te...Tech%20Info.pdf

Motul
http://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1328624012

Liqui Moly
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...voiladb=web.nsf

Pennzoil
http://www.pennzoil.com/wp-content/uploads...Trans-Fluid.pdf

Torco
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/MTF.pdf

any comments on the above gathered finding/data?

on the additive end, i've had very positive results for the lubegard platinum for atf, and quite similarly for the manual gear supplement. though i'm not too sure if the lube/additives may potentially further worsen the situation i am facing (doesn't seem like it, noise levels same, still very intermittent and din't seem to have increased rate of occurrence.

although yes, i do agree that if i have the money i am probably would be better off going for full synthetics with better base stocks and additive package to have much more consistent performance
i think i may just go for that on my next ATF change
(thinking Torco ATF)

thanks for the info btw, i'll try to pay attention to the whine and purposely disengage the clutch the moment it appears and see if it disappears. if it does, i guess we can confirm it's the input shaft?
If it is the input shaft, there is nothing (eg: change thicker/EP/shock proof lubes) we can do besides changing the entire gearbox? (i doubt proton will repair, most likely replace 1 to 1
still really new on manual trannies so bear with me a bit: does the gear oil lubricates either of the input/output shafts?

good info on the 300v, really eager to give it a try lol...
for a bit i was thinking, as i already spent so much for additives (liqui moly ceratec, that nano extreme ws2 thingy), i actually spent more than what SR5r/300v would have cost... like, those would be better than amsoil signature series i'd reckon LOL!

well regardless of the job's interest, money is money. and money helps fund car modding/maintenance

Well it is up to you to figure if the increased corrosion is worth the better drive. To me at least, baulk rings were cheaper than gear sets so going for GL-6 type spec was a no brainer. But mind you I supervise a team of experienced diesel fitters, mechanics and automotive machinists, so labour is on the cheap side if you buy them a slab of piss

I generally don't want to experiment too much these days and thus go for a "fit for purpose" oil and then assess it from there, but don't let that stop you from experimenting though.

Generally if you engage the clutch while moving, your input shaft will receive no power, thus you can generally figure out if it is an input or output issue. If the input shaft is the issue the first things I'd look at are;

1) Main bearing
2) Thrust bearing
3) Tolerances
4) Wear
5) Lubrication

You can get to most of these when you replace the clutch. The lubrication for spline the input shaft is usually moly grease that is applied during tranny assembly where the clutch meets the spline. Also a bad alignment of the clutch can cause such issues as well.