Very poorly worded, apologies for that. The upper (horizontal?) end of the lapel where it forms the gorge is typically unfinished during the fitting. It will be folded downwards (about 1/2") and sewn down to form a finished lapel.

To illustrate, observe the lapels on my jacket during the two fittings.. I requested for a lower gorge, but was told that it would be lower once finished, and no change was necessary.




I think you could even do with 0.5" extra on the front and buttons. It will look significantly more 'correct'!

I did not understand what the poster that drew the grids all over you was saying.. But i do know that the horizontal distance between the buttons can affect the perception of height more tremendously than any change in your button stance.

A smaller overlap (~4" horizontal distance between buttons, maybe even less depending on your 'width') will elongate the torso visually.

I sometimes regret posting that review of my tailor on SF. Her store is now filled with cloth from all over eBay and AndrewRogers from mysterious customers, and my orders are taking way longer to fill. I also get weird looks from some guys who walk in, probably lurkers on SF.

FML.

Thanks for the explanation, I understand completely. By gorge I had thought you meant the lapel crease opening, and how little shirt is showing!

I get the looks too. If they found out I'm kotmj they might not let me escape the shop so easily.

pictures of the suit are in blog .. i am trying to get better picture of the suit after iron

I know-There was a Mat Salleh there trying on his suit which appeared in my opinion short in the Thom Browne manner & wanting to order several suits at a go.No wonder AL was beaming from ear to ear.

All this means is higher prices & longer waiting time for the regulars ( unless he increases his intake of Galley slaves !!)

The breast pocket. Compulsive 4D gambling tailor?
[attachmentid=1740588]
A strip of selvage was sewn on the canvas
[attachmentid=1740589]
The underside
[attachmentid=1740590]
Lapel pad stitchings are made over a piece of light blue *insert weird material* cloth
[attachmentid=1740591]

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 22 2010, 12:04 PM

Heh, what are those mai chee numbers doing on the pocket?

That would be the winning 4D numbers of the day probably 30 years ago. Special prizes on the left, consolation on the right.

Very thin padding

That's the thick one for the right dropped shoulder. The left shoulder pad is even thinner.

---

Added on August 22, 2010, 1:57 pmAlso, most of the thickness is at the back of the shoulder. The front of the shoulder is almost unpadded.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 22 2010, 01:57 PM

What have you done to your shoulders?

---

Added on August 22, 2010, 2:20 pmYou sure you're done with 2 fittings? R already gave me four fittings, I'm still not done with it. I'm going to pester him next week for another fitting and show him pictures of my desired notch style.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 22 2010, 02:20 PM

I'm showing him
[attachmentid=1740858]

We'll see how well he can replicate that notch.

http://i789.photobucket.com/albums/yy178/k...cture001a-1.jpg

I just understood now, only one of the shoulders were taken in. Which do you prefer?

Left side (my POV), for sure.

The V-plunge on my DB waistcoat is also very high like yours. Very little shirt showing

Shit, I hate this netbook. Everything is so tiny.

I played tennis growing up. Or maybe it was due to all the one-handed wanking.

Tell me which shoulder you prefer: left or right?

---

Added on August 22, 2010, 4:35 pmi'm kotmj.

---

Added on August 22, 2010, 4:38 pmi dun understand your obsession with just the right notch. they all look the same to me?

This post has been edited by servo: Aug 22 2010, 04:38 PM

My right, your left

Lokemui I agree with you, I'll call AL on Monday to revert back to the original shoulder width.

Gshen, I think I am a drapist after all.

So here the changes I will tell him to make:

1. Revert back to original shoulder config.
2. All buttons 0.25" lower.

I don't know either. Study the notches on the first and second coat. They both share the same gradient on the gorge line but look at the shape of the collar. I prefer the shape on the first one. But then this may be the toughest detail to pull off correctly. For instance, on sloped shoulders, a droopy notch might appear just fine as the shape follows the contours of the shoulder line but imagine how would it look like on squared or build up shoulders. The droopiness would be much more prominent. The collar height, shoulder slope, gorge, lapel width, all have to blend and work together nicely to achieve your desired notch. There are no measurements used or shortcuts in doing this. The only way is to adjust, adjust and adjust.


This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 22 2010, 06:52 PM

I always believe that both waistcoat and db suit have 1 thing in common which barely show the shirt .. The pinstripe db suit looks gorgeous....hmmm