FWIW, i really dislike that example.

Also, will you take that unglamorous picture off your avatar if i link you some boobies?

Maybe a crotch pic?

Crotch shot over boobies? We now know who is to blame for MeToo's misguided thoughts..

and now...who is in the kotmj avatar????

Tan Sri, is that you?

I personally don't like the look but it could be done in this case to conceal the wearer's portly fiqure.

THe shoulder I cant accept, too droppy for me, i would prefer a more squarish shoulder, makes me look slimmer (trying to achieve that V shape look with a gym!)

1. Quarter inch more waisting each side
2. Sleeves to be rotated backwards
2. Shoulder slope correction on right side
3. 1/2" less back balance on navy trousers, 3/4" shorter
4. 3/4" shorter flannel trousers

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Added on August 21, 2010, 1:43 pmDo I still look like a navy-coloured refrigerator?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 21 2010, 01:43 PM

Gorge still way high! Jacket looks a bit too short now?

Trousers are great though. What fabric is that flannel ?

It's starting to take shape. Now you look like a navy beer keg.

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Added on August 21, 2010, 2:08 pmI was told that the gorge will be lower once the suit is completed. Previously a forumer showed us his basted fitting pics where the gorge had gone all the way up to the point where it can never be seen, but turned out to be fine on the completed piece.

This post has been edited by bloke1: Aug 21 2010, 02:08 PM

I bought the flannel on eBay, it is thick like a carpet and has no selvedge. I know it is a woolen flannel, not a worsted flannel.

It has already been altered once to shorten the back balance, but the back still seems very messy. I have basically given up trying to get such things right on trousers that sit on the hips. It's impossible. The waistband keeps shifting up and down between meals.

I don't know what to do about the gorge! The only way to expose more shirt at the throat is to lower all six buttons. Should I do that? 1/2"? Maybe short guys just have to live with high gorges.

This is the last fitting, BTW. The navy buttonhole twist I bought is too light a shade, I am reordering a darker shade. I need this suit by the first week of next month, otherwise I'm screwed.

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Added on August 21, 2010, 2:44 pmI chose a burgundy rayon lining.

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Added on August 21, 2010, 2:51 pmBTW I love those fishtail trews. It is ridiculous to have trousers tightly bound and suspended from the hips. I wish I could wear braces everyday, but it would make me look like a grandpa.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 21 2010, 02:51 PM

1. Jacket -Better-more shape needed especially at the waist
2. Trousers-No fish tail?

I think the jacket will acquire a more prominent chest once made up. The final shaping with a heavy iron has not taken place yet. I suspect the jacket will be shapelier overall.

Apparently, the height of the fishtail entirely depends on your posture. What matters is that the back and front balance ("The Line") are right. The height of the fishtail is a way to regulate that. That's what he told me. I stand quite upright. No stoop. So shorter fishtail.

IMO, if you add a bit to the coat length, you will have a bit more room to lower the button stance and expose more shirt. Also, the gorge should be folded in 1/2" when they actually make it.. so it might not actually be as high as it seems now. I forgot that, sorry.

Might be the pics, but the coat's back balance looks long? A side view pic would have shown this more clearly..

The shoulders look better now. TBH I can't tell if you've got them narrowed, though it looks like it. Otherwise, either my eyes suck or the outdoor pics are much more flattering.

Now I have a feeling my gorge would turn out to be too low.

I was told this is the way it's supposed to be. That is, vertical distance from top to middle row > distance from middle to bottom row.

I dunno. I added grid lines to it to get an idea. I think it would help for many to see where adjustments can be made for "their" own preferences and not Kotmj's. Based on reference from what i have seen, its a modern take on the traditional DB. If the vertical width of the second and third set of button is more nearer about 1-2 inch, you get slimming effect and you might even gain some visual height. I don't think there is any problem anywhere. Because i do not know what kind of reference material u guys are refering to.

The grey one posted earlier is an almost genuine take on the 1930's DB suit. On exception of the fabric.

Its not meeee...I still wonder who is the guy....

Went to ALT to commission for 6 more shirting-4 from Acorn and 2 from Zegna wonderful white blend of cotton and linen

Darn...its so hard to get the rite fit for Jeremy's DB- I won't dare to do the same...without any sartorial knowledge...

Saw the jacket on a tailoring dummy at ALT today.

The jacket & fabric looks better in person . The pictures don't do it justice.

The shoulder paddings are wonderfully soft & represents a real departure from ALT's house style.

The female galley slave remarked that it was on the insistence of the customer. AL was beaming proudly on the softness of the jacket which is a marked difference from his previous criticisms of the soft unstructured fully canvassed jackets.

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Added on August 22, 2010, 12:49 amGshen,

The shoulders are very lightly padded & look wonderful on the tailoring dummy when I saw it this afternoon

This post has been edited by beau: Aug 22 2010, 12:49 AM

Gshen, what do you mean by the gorge being folded in half when being made up? I have difficulty imagining what it means.

Yeah, the shoulders were taken in a tad. There was unanimous consensus both here and on SF that the shoulders were overextended.

I'm thinking of adding 0.25" to the front length of the coat and moving all six buttons down 0.5".

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Added on August 22, 2010, 1:04 amI only ever go to ALT on not-to-be disclosed hours nowadays. Saturday afternoon is like a Lowyat forum meet over there, all these young people wanting suits. Phew.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 22 2010, 01:04 AM