hi guys, can anybody recommend me airbrush set for beginner? and where is the best place to get it? plan to buy one for gundam models.

for a starter, you can get a set from mgs2u.com

the set is complete and more than enough for a beginner.

or you can also try getting from rayloke, ICW.

i got my set from him, nice friendly guy and very helpful.

What is ICW? May i know how much you bought?

infinite creation workshop,

more info's here:

http://malaysiascalemodelling.com/index.ph...d=133&Itemid=21

http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=8201

they cater modeling tools, more so a place for modelers to hang-out

Hi guys i have questions on using can spray(not going AB yet)

Industrial paint i didnt see white primer, only grey primer. Should i use flat white instead?

I bought a DPI candy blue color to try. Nt knowing what color it is.. Cant quite see even after paint. Is it sort of like transparent/clear blue? Yea i tried on blue runner(exia's)

so far did Hi-nu, strike noir, exia ignition, zaku green n johnny ridden and freedom EBM with can spray. Results are getting better everytime but can spray soon cant satisfy me d. It is fun experience using industrial can spray. My suggestion is to SHAKE well(i always did 2mins), and try the can color first on runners. Some can spray doesnt work even same brand(TOA brand black works for me but yellow fail).

hmm, why Tamiya marker pen seem dry slowly than Gundam marker?
it not same-based paint?

thanks for the info. will try to contact them.

ICW definitely a good place to look. mgs2u also. the towkay for mgs2u has good after market service as well.. just in case you break your nozzle/ nozzle stuck. i got mine as a whole set- ab, compressor, basic paints, thinner, and primer for about 500 ish..

Tamiya chrome maker takes around 1 day ++ to totally dry =,= ... summore if u touch it hard.. ur finger print will be on it.. so handle with care.. and I think it's oil base I think..=,= I dun really like to use.. but it's damn nice... so I just normally color it.. n leave it to dry without touching it for few days...

Gundam Marker normally is water base

yup..still there


all metal must be prime...this is to let the paint adhere best on the surface.... actually any primer will do the job not limited to the one that labeled metal primer...

i see... but too suck because i want to paint Strike's knife, i need wait to wait the other side dry first to paint full side..(and the part already cut from runner)

HELP!!
Nooby Question =

I wanna ask about Mr Hobby Cement. I have already glued Two pieces of Gundam Armor piece together. Is there any way to Separate them again? using what solvent? Where to get at hobby shop?

i apply gundam marker on my model, what is the best way to clean away ink that is not in the groove?

i've tried to use tissue, but it is hard to rub, even wet cloth doesn't make it much easier

Use acetone-based nail polish remover.

Or just pop the parts into the freezer, wait until they're frozen, then crack them apart with a hobby knife.

QUOTE(amduser @ Apr 30 2011, 07:05 PM)

i apply gundam marker on my model, what is the best way to clean away ink that is not in the groove?

i've tried to use tissue, but it is hard to rub, even wet cloth doesn't make it much easier

Read this. Haven't tried it myself, but he claims it to work.

Oh yes. will try it later. Thanks 4 the idea. But first i must curi my Sis's nail polish remover without her noticing its missing.
Another mission to go.

If mission Failed, then its the freezer lol.

haha.....apply the yoko yoko to yourself after long hours of building a MG

i wonder if super concentrated sour lime, lemon and orange will work since they are quite effective in cleaning away grease and oil stain

alternatively, if your kit is not painted, using modelling thinner also will work. please only use modelling thinner. industrial will melt your plastic.

Cement is a no return solution that you have choosen. If putty, you still can go back.

So, the solution to your problem, saw them apart.

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Added on April 30, 2011, 8:17 pmTry modelling thinner. Otherwise, next time when you draw the lining, use q-tip/cotton butt to rub them off, before the ink dries off.

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 30 2011, 08:17 PM

but my kit is painted, not the one i paint myself, but the one that came with the colour, consider painted?

ok, will try

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Added on May 1, 2011, 7:10 pmjust finished panel marking my strike freedom main body and the 2 cannon, still got the wing and the 2 gun

very messy finish and a lot of tragedy happen which include breaking one of the part while dissemble it

This post has been edited by amduser: May 1 2011, 07:10 PM

if u glued the part already.... there are 2 solutions

1. freezed to death method

Put ur part into a small cup, put water and let it freeze...leave overnight and take it out and let the ice melted..after that try to fry it open...if cannot, put it back in the freezer (with water)..make the parts complete submersed in water.... repeat the step until the part detached... it can be a few cycle depending on the quantity of glue used

2. Brake Fluid Dot3

soak the part with brake fluid, leave overnight.... some said petronas dot 3 work best.... this method however, turn ur plastic into brittle..

my 2 cents