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Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3
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Parody
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 Apr 30 2011, 07:28 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(Tyrant Sparda @ Apr 30 2011, 06:41 PM) I wanna ask about Mr Hobby Cement. I have already glued Two pieces of Gundam Armor piece together. Is there any way to Separate them again? using what solvent? Where to get at hobby shop? 
Or just pop the parts into the freezer, wait until they're frozen, then crack them apart with a hobby knife.
QUOTE(amduser @ Apr 30 2011, 07:05 PM) i apply gundam marker on my model, what is the best way to clean away ink that is not in the groove? i've tried to use tissue, but it is hard to rub, even wet cloth doesn't make it much easier 
Read this. Haven't tried it myself, but he claims it to work. |
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Parody
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Jun 18 2011, 02:22 AM
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New Member
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QUOTE(clivengu @ Jun 16 2011, 09:50 PM) Recently wanted to start gunpla again... but when I go to Time Machine times square.. I just realised it is no longer there? Did they move to somewhere else or chaplap oredi?
Scroll down a little.  |
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Parody
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Jun 21 2011, 12:58 AM
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New Member
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QUOTE(Wira Hikari @ Jun 20 2011, 04:22 PM) Hi again Can anyone tell me if there are any differences between the topcoats below?, I noticed that they are all under My Hobby but different series i think, any recommendation for beginners like me? Thanks very much 
Beginners are more suited to use Topcoat.
QUOTE(Noysan @ Jun 20 2011, 04:46 PM) Just started this hobby a couple of months ago, kinda noob...  » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
That's some impressive work!!! Not newbie-ish at all! 
Love the bloodstaines on the Blades of Chaos and on the body, but Medusa's head looks like it could use some weathering or shading. She's kinda bland now. |
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Parody
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Jun 23 2011, 03:13 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(hyzam1212 @ Jun 23 2011, 03:07 PM) JUst want to ask you guys, what is the effect of not applying the screws especially on ankles? The main purpose of it is to maintain the flying pose rite? I found it is quite tight for a standing pose |
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Parody
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Jun 26 2011, 04:20 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(golbeza @ Jun 25 2011, 07:42 PM) guys, is there any difference between white & gray primer? 
QUOTE(devilrider88 @ Jun 26 2011, 12:45 AM) i was puttying a hollow part under my SD Core Booster and then it became like squishy and "lembut2".
Tamiya Basic Putty has an adequate amount of thinner in it. So when it dries, the thinner transfers over to the plastic, making it soft. Basic Putty is used to fill very small holes and seamlines, not really suitable for large surface fills or sculpts. Best for you to use Tamiya Epoxy Putty.
QUOTE(lawliet88 @ Jun 26 2011, 03:43 AM) can anyone suggest me an alternate option for white color primer spray except tamiya & mr hobby?
Kylron? Testors?
QUOTE(Madz.Madz @ Jun 26 2011, 04:00 PM) Hi all! Need some advice. I painted the beam rifle of my model kit with a thinned first layer of Tamiya Enamel Gun metal paint. After 24 hours, I try to paint it with the second layer. Problem is, when I painted the rifle, the first layer started to come off. Not sure if I should have waited longer that 24 hours or something else.
Could be several problems:
1) Paint is not dry enough (24 hours is enough for acrylic and lacquer but not for enamel).
2) You're using the wrong thinner (should use Tamiya X-20 Enamel Paint Thinner instead of other industrial thinners).
3) Too much thinner in your paint (if handbrushing, thinner to paint ratio should be 2:8 or 3:7, nothing more).
Best of luck to you.This post has been edited by Parody: Jun 27 2011, 12:37 AM |
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Parody
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Jul 1 2011, 12:24 AM
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New Member
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QUOTE(shauno @ Jul 1 2011, 12:01 AM) for AB, there is also a reason why leveling thinner is better, but i forgot why liao. |
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Parody
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Jul 1 2011, 04:45 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(shauno @ Jul 1 2011, 08:40 AM) yeah! smoother surface! i totally forgot. maybe brain was not working last night  |
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Parody
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Jul 1 2011, 04:59 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(shauno @ Jul 1 2011, 04:55 PM) to avoid going OT tho, i've been told that when you AB, normal thinner + retarder is not a substitute for leveling thinner. thinner + retarder would take too long to dry, and then you'll have problems with dust sticking. |
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Parody
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Jul 4 2011, 06:16 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(daydreaming @ Jul 3 2011, 02:38 PM) I think i used the wrong method. A friend told me to touch up the 'gate' or 'nib' part using permanent marker closest to the gundam color (it's the wing part). so i used black. and the result was...not good at all. So i used file (came with Tamiya basic tool pack) to smoothen it....still, the color became dull. :| Any method I can use to rescue this without having to paint? Can i try using fine sandpaper (wet sanding), then apply tamiya polishing compound coarse and fine? |
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Parody
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Jul 4 2011, 08:21 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(daydreaming @ Jul 4 2011, 07:50 PM) oo thanks. i got the 1500 grit sandpaper. they don hv 1200 anymore. but could not find the polishing compound. :T
QUOTE(Wira Hikari @ Jul 4 2011, 08:09 PM) hey guys, regarding bout mr mark softener and mark settler, will either these two have any effects of matt/flat coated surface and gloss coated surface? The reason for it is because i heard that for gloss coated surface it is recommended to use mark softener for the decals whilst mark settler is encouraged for gloss coated surface. Any opnions bout this matter? Thanks
So you're saying that for gloss surfaces, you should use BOTH softener and setter? Or is there a typing error? |
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Parody
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Jul 4 2011, 09:01 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(Wira Hikari @ Jul 4 2011, 08:51 PM) Oops must be typo error, was rushing for dinner....well what i meant was mark softener for gloss surface whilst mark settler for flat/matt surface
Decals stick better to smooth (or glossy) surface, so Mark Setter is not necessary unless the decals are of old-age and the glue has lost its stickiness. If it sticks properly, you could use Mark Softener instead.
For flat/matte/rough surfaces, the decals might have problem sticking on them. Mark Setter will help it stick better to the surface. Of course, you can still use Mark Softener if you wish.
In other words, what you use depends on what you want to do. If it doesn't stick, use Mark Setter. If you want to thin the decal or apply it over uneven surfaces, use Mark Softener. Feel free to use both. |
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Parody
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Jul 4 2011, 10:33 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(lawliet88 @ Jul 4 2011, 09:52 PM) apply to water slide also rite? some wat lazy, can i jz apply small amount of Future right at the spot i wan to put the decal slide, cure 1 day, then apply the decal?  save budget mah
Yeah, i suppose you could do that to save. |
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Parody
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Jul 6 2011, 05:37 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(daydreaming @ Jul 6 2011, 11:07 AM) oh ya, saw some ppl opt for top coat also. so top coat spray before i apply decal right?
QUOTE(daydreaming @ Jul 6 2011, 11:07 AM) so no need polishing? mmmmm ok.better listen to the shi fus
Modellers usually try to get rid of the glossy shine and go for a matte finish. That's why they don't polish it after sanding. However if you want it to be glossy, feel free to polish it.
QUOTE(Odinn @ Jul 6 2011, 01:03 PM) Will be starting my first attempt at spray painting my gundams this weekend (1/144 scale to test first). I got a can of Primer and 1 color to test, gray.
Is your primer grey in color? If it is, i don't think painting grey is necessary unless the color is significantly different.
QUOTE(Odinn @ Jul 6 2011, 01:03 PM) So I've used masking tape to cover the parts that don't need spraying. Now all I have to do is spray Primer on the parts I want colored, then after letting Primer dry, spray the gray?
People usually apply primer to the whole kit, but i guess your method can be used as well. You're right to do it in that order. |
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Parody
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Jul 18 2011, 06:10 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(panda*Pan @ Jul 14 2011, 09:14 AM) lets talk about paint brand and type, i am new on this and i choose to buy Gaia colors....why? because i think Gaia got serious nice and the colors is "alive".... question is how to differentiate it is enamel or acrylic. Most of blog and site i read suggested enamel over acrylic for hand paint, and i can only do hand paint since AB kit cost a bomb....
Enamel is the best for hand painting since it dries the slowest. You could still use acrylic/lacquer with some drops of retarder to slow the drying process.
QUOTE(Madz.Madz @ Jul 18 2011, 01:19 PM) Has anyone tried the camou spray can from Krylon? Saw this one from Ace hardware and not sure if this is any good.
Camo spray? You mean several different colors in ONE spray can?  This post has been edited by Parody: Jul 18 2011, 06:26 PM |
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Parody
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Jul 19 2011, 04:02 PM
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New Member
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QUOTE(Tiger I @ Jul 19 2011, 01:33 AM) The camo spray comes in many camo colours Parody eg dark green, khaki etc, not myriads of colours in one can |
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