as mentioned above
the purpose is to cover scratches from the sanding you've made on your kit. It also used for modding to check errors and etc.
most important is, it lets your paint "stick" better on the kit.

thinner is expensive but can last you very long... i bought the 2nd biggest hobby thinner that time almost 2 years also not finished.. lol
electric bill wont be so expensive la.. i dont think the compressor uses a lot of electricity also

That is actually the right way.. lol.. i can't imagine someone so crazy use hobby thinner to wash their ab...
Well said!!! though it'll be expensive if you get a lot of tools and stuff but overall still can't compare to photography and car



This post has been edited by z3r0717: Oct 1 2010, 11:55 AM

modelers paint the whole thing...
are you one ?

- makes your paint stick better
- covers the scratches from your sanding
- check/covers any uneven places




This post has been edited by z3r0717: Oct 24 2010, 08:30 PM

if you're new to painting, can skip the bottom 2 first cause it's meant for pre-shading.
The first 2 layers mean.
when you want to to panel line washing, you have to put gloss coat first so that when you panel line wash, the paint will flow smoothly on the lines.
"must be different paint from previous layer" means, assuming you paint your base layer with lacquer/acrylic paint then you'll have to use enamel paint as panel line washing because these paints won't react together(mix). Unlike lacquer and acrylic, they don't go well together hence base layer paints are either lacquer or acrylic most of the time.. enamel also can..

there's 2 type of primer/surfacer, both are the same
gray - normal use for all colors
white - this is just to brighten your colors like yellow, etc.

if you spray the gray one and spray the yellow, it might not look so sharp therefore, the white surfacer comes in

I'll just give you simple steps of painting gunpla
Pre-assemble kit -> Sanding -> primer/surfacer -> base paint -> gloss coat(can skip if your base paint is alr gloss) -> panel line -> topcoat(gloss,semi,flat)(can skip if you want) -> decals -> final topcoat of your choice

hope that helps

so you're into AB?
there's 3.
500, 1000, 1200
the numbers are like sand paper grits
500 is a bit rough for certain effects
1000 and 1200 not much difference but AB just go for 1200

oh.. hand paint...
if hand paint get primer spray can dont get the bottle type, it's meant for AB use only.. even if you try to hand paint it, it won't look good..
for primer/surfacer, you need to have a smooth layer...

yes...
get the bigger one..
and learn how to spray properly if not wasted.. lol

If can invest for AB then go ahead, you'll never regret it...
Topcoat using AB , the risk of getting frosting is so low compare to spray can types

It's always up to you but people of course will recommend you to do it... Topcoat is meant to protect your paint and give the effect of flat, gloss, etc

You'll never regret if u get AB because it's a long time investment. If you're really into gunpla then it's worth it...
You can mix paints or any effects you want for your kit with the control of your finger tips

if can provide picture, see how deep or wide is the gap of the seam line..
when you put cement, it's best to wait for hours OR until the next day before sanding it..
lower grit sandpaper is for getting rib of nibs.. don't have to use so low to get rid of seam lines unless quite wide...
just use 800-1000 also enough d..

yea, that is why need to see picture to clarify

like no difference...
the gold looks rough therefore dont have the "shininess"

lol... any kit can be painted dude..
ecoplay is just re-used recycled plastic.. that's all...

i see...
seamline is just a gap of 2 parts when "combine" together..
depends how deep or wide it is, you may need putty to cover it..
If it's just a small line cement will do.. once dry can start sanding and the seam line will blend together and when prime, it'll be unnoticeable.

try to shape it a bit when it gets a little harder..
after 24 hours, it'll be TOO HARD to sand... you sand until you wanna cry

epoxy putty is suitable for filling up holes like those SD kits where the legs or hands have huge holes...
Polyester putty is also suitable to cover holes BUT not deeps holes like the SD.. Polyester putty is very suitable for reshaping parts. It also has a very strong smell which is not good for health so make sure to have a good ventilation.
Example use for polyester, let's say u want the part to be round, u can use polyester putty and let it dry for a day and then start sanding. It easy very easy to sand but the dust is also quite harmful to health.. lol

can you see the green colored parts? those are polyester putty and this is from keita(one of the most popular gunpla masters in Japan)

lol... once fully cured it's hard as stoned, you don't want to sand a stone

i think it's different...
glow in the dark paint does glow in the dark where as
Fluorescent paint does not, it reacts to UV lights which gives like a glowing effect..
As for what brand and where to get i do not know but you can try asking if tkting(forumer) bring this paint anot

<---------

both...
those with design talents know where to put/add..
and those like me without the talents will use references...
Most important is you have to find is it relevant and not just simply putting it.

er... usually i just look at those japanese modeler's work and reference or local modelers.
one of the jap modelers i respect
http://www.geocities.jp/a2crafts/gallery.html
some of his works have panel lines, hope it helps

lol.. yea.. the animated one scared too many ppl..

Is it good? well, a good replacement for hobby spray cans(since they are expensive)
You have to always keep note that nippon pylox are meant for industrial use but for plastics still ok
When you spray, try not to spray too thick as the air pressure is very strong.
After top coating it, of course it does look nice.. but if you're using spray can type top coats, have to be cautions too as frosting might appear.

Method to spray is spray from left to right covering the area you desire.
Try not to spray too long as it gets thick..
1-2 layers is sufficient unless you need a third.
Spray distance 30 cm..

Test it on a runner to get the feel.
Hope it helps