that is for you and others to judge.. lol..
If painted not correctly, it'll just look like normal
done correctly and you'll see an art

Advice to Vorador
If you're new to this, dont start with your PG, it'll be wasting your money..
Try everything on a HG kit. Practice and get the feel of everything.
Learn the fundamentals and once you are confident then only go to PG. PG is not easy as it has many parts.
Just my 2 cents

i have not work with them before BUT It is NECESSARY to clean them because to get rid of the "oil" so you can sand them properly and also when AB, it will stick better

I have not tried industrial putty on plastic and i don't recommend it.. industrial putty is meant for Industrial use..
Just get Hobby type.
Pros and Cons? industrial putty might not be suitable to model kits(plastic) and might even melt it...
Hobby definitely suitable and you don't have to necessarily buy tamiya or mr.hobby.. They are cheaper alternatives brand which are suitable for hobby.
Check them out at ICW@PJ area OR MGS2U.com

Try a place called ICW@PJ OR go to MGS2U.com to check

Topcoat has 2 types of material, one is lacquer and acrylic so be careful which one you choose so that it won't affect the paint underneath.

You don't have to exactly apply top coat for every part... if you want, you can also...
It's easier if you apple leg part, arm part, etc...

top coat Maximum 2 layers is enough. Even you have multiple layers of topcoat, once you move the parts carelessly, you will still scratch them..
Usually 1 layer of top coat is enough unless you want it Flatter(if you're doing Flat/Matte)

no, it will not react...primer's purpose is to let the paint stick

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Sep 30 2011, 03:50 PM

Let me comment a few pointers...
Get your fundamentals done first like mold lines, seam lines to make the kit look better...
As for the weathering, weathering can be fun yet it'll make you over done it. So always keep in mind when you do weathering...
The kit of the size, will the weathering paint(example: sand) look too big on this kit..
Try to make it minimal, you can see it yet cannot see it Get what i mean?
Keep up the work..

Gaia Color Flat Clear is the bottle type right? It's not meant to be hand painted, it's meant to be airbrushed...
Hand painting will not give you a nice result...
NO, you cannot use industrial thinner, it will spoil your kit....

Just get a hobby thinner even though it's expensive but it'll last you a long time unless you use AB...

hand painting is not bad and the cheapest investment for painting model kits but requires lots of skill like avoiding brush strokes and etc..

As for AB, although a expensive investment but think of the long run, it gives you better results and better control of paint.
If you're staying in PJ, just drop by ICW since they provide the service of compressor FREE. You just need to bring your own AirBrush Gun(Hand Piece) & Paints... That's all

Yes you can... when you spray, paint your kits, you use hobby thinner.. when you want to clean the brush and airbrush, just use industrial thinner.
If you hobby thinner to clean, we'll be broke very fast.. lol

Business Hour:
6pm to 930pm on Monday to Friday
11am to 5pm on Saturday
Not opened on sunday

It is actually not that difficult to remove, just use tweezer..
DO NOT leave it until the next day to remove maybe because that's why ppl complain...
About the paint being peel off as well, it never happen to me. If you have a layer of primer it won't happen..
You're suppose to remove it after a few hours but i remove it right after i finish painting.
If you leave it for a week, it'll harden therefore difficulty removing...
Just sharing my experience.

cheap industrial thinner come in different sizes... got bottle and big one.. a bottle one is sufficient for you already.

Just keep in mind,HOBBY(Tamiya, mr.hobby, gaia) paints won't melt your kit(plastic) cause they are meant for hobby use

i had the same problem once...
just add a little oil at the trigger area.. the lowest part, just apply a little using cotton bud and then it'll pop up straight back up right after you let go.

yeap... those kinda oil that are similar to WD40..
Remember, just apply a little can already..
Yesterday i just applied again because the trigger starting to "pop" up slowly..

That's the reason why it won't pop up already because you cleaned the oil away...
usually i clean my airbrush using industrial thinner.. If you always use lacquer thinner to clean then

glad to know!
got this tip from zero1st.

you don't use polishing compound to cover the scratches ....
you're suppose to just spray a layer of primer/surfacer to cover it..
polishing compound is for glossy look, smooth surface like cars.

This post has been edited by z3r0717: Nov 11 2011, 10:13 AM

yes, true...
but it'll be extra work too won't it since you polish one area then you have to polish the area to balance it. lol