This is very hard to explain; which i ll skip all the explanation.

Yes u could do that. balck base coat. but it will look very metallic.

if u want it look like pearl white at cars we normally see, i recommend to use pure white as base paint.

I know this guy who is crazy about paper model right now; he just built a 6 feet Mazinger outta paper now displayed in Famitoys.

I dun know here, but in zeroG forum, his nick is honeymic. i think he can gives u some tips about paper modeling.

Hardware shop. Just tell the Apek u want epoxy putty, the one with 2 parts, looks like Plastestine.

I dont know the hardware shop in Bangi.

I m here, lol.

here's the map:


and a brief description of the workshop:
http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=8201



If u stay or work near PJ area, feel free to come visit, lepak, or even bring your kit to work here to work.

We dont do postage, so if u r thinking of getting tools n paints by postage, these 2 r pretty good choices:


oldman's Hobbies Corner : http://www.hobbiescorner.com/

Tkting's Mgs2u : http://mgs2u.com/shop/

This post has been edited by rayloke: Mar 22 2011, 12:58 PM

Actually hand paint, spray can, n air brush r merely ways of painting. Each has its strong n weak points, and luckily, result is depends on the skill of the modelers.

There r modelers, due to various reasons, who cannot use air brush to paint big flat surface, but they still able to achive good result.

Eg,

1) 2008 World Bakuc Champion (Philippines) entry, all sprayed parts r fully done by spray can.

2) 2010 Malaysia Bakuc Champion (Centaur Unicorn) part of the unicorn is actually spray can.

3) 2010 Malaysia Bakuc Entry, Ex-S Gundam http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_cvgW2tuxttA/TOwI...00/DSC02382.JPG
(This is fully han painted, very impressive!)


As for loan of hand piece, as Shauno mentioned, though a hand piece can last for years, but it can be easily spoiled......

If u stay in PJ area, u can actually just purchase a hand piece, n utilize my place's spray booth n compressor (free for use); or if in Ampang area, i heard AfHobby use to have spray booth for modelers to work on too (Not sure they still have it, u can call n check)

With this, at least ur initial cost will not be so high, coz no need to buy compressor.

Btw, 1/48 scale, if u r building AFV, tank n figures, definitely no problem for hand paint. For plane it's a little big, but still, there r people who can achieve great result; so if u really have problem with ab, u can always explore other options.

if u r interested in commissioning someone to do it for ya, i can intro a forum to u where many of them r actually plane builders, u can ask, check the price, n browse their folio.

This is a thread about modeling technique n Q&A, so not convenient to intro other forum here, so if u r really keen, can pm me.

Haha, this is a very tricky question. Basically shininess is not a color, not a certain wave length of ray that goes into our eyes. In fact, shininess, generally is more likely to be refered to a combination n clarity of highlights n shadow. In other words, it's the smoothness of the surface that interpreted by our eyes to determine how shiny we want to label it as.

Ok, i think this is not what u r seeking for; just in case u r interested in learning a little more about colors n vision.

For gold paint, mebbe u can try Mr hobby's super metallic series, or the Gaia star bright. Personally, I would prefer the SM series.

Check out the link, n the effect: http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...=0#entry3153683

first u need to let us know what glue's used to glue the plastic part.

If super glue, actually u can just browse thru a few pages in the thread. Someone just asked the same question n others had been answering it.

I would favor more to Shauno's way. I top coat piece by piece, just like i m doing paint onto the part.

Actually the material we use (generally) to top coat is call "clear". It's actually the pretty much the same thing as paint. Paint = resin* + color Pigment. Clear is = resin* only. Imagine u r painting/spraying color paint; u assemble the kit, then just spray the whole thing with color. U will expect there ll be a lot of places where the paint is very rough, due to air turbulance, paint particle staying too long in the air n get dry before hitting onto the plastic. This is the reason why u will find certain places, the painted surface is rougher than others. This is generally what we refer to as "frosting" when we do that with clear paint- a paint supposed to be clear n colorless, but due to such condition, a layer of whitish surface is formed.

For color - many people spray their kit part by part; while for top coat, they spray whole kit together or pre-assembled certain parts. That explain why people tends to have frosting problem more often during top coat than coloring stage.



*Resin - This is not the resin kit or resin conversion kit type of resin. Though they r in the same family. This resin, is the thing in paint that bonds together when dry n form a layer of solid. Clear resin, u add yellow pigment into it, it will become yellow paint. This is the basic concept of paint.

Yes i have. the one used in modeling usually is smaller, generally we call it router.

http://www.hlj.com/product/WAVHT-181

It comes with different sizes, shapes, n brands. The link is one by Wave. We do carry some routers, different brands, features, n prices too.

Hi bro, if u r located in KL area, i would suggest u go either:

AF Hobby (Ampang) - with tools n paints n ab stuff. location somewhere near XL shop HQ. mostly gunpla stuff

HHQ (Jln Tun razak) - fraser business park, the old F&N factory there. Carries all kind of tools n paints n ab too. More of scale model instead of Gunpla.

If u located in PJ:

ICW (Sunwaymas, near Bandar utama n aman suria) - tools, n paint, n ab stuff. mostly gunpla stuff. with work place n other facilities free for usehttp://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=8201 (Hehe, that's my shop)


If u r outstation or prefer mail order:

Hobbiescorner.com (looks for oldman)

Mgs2u.com (boss name is Tkting)

If u want the boss's phone number, lemme know, will pm u.

Good that u salvage your kit.

For making it look nice, i think the first think is to sand down the nip marks, cover seamlines etc, do all the fundamental groundwork nicely. Without doing so, any kind of so-called "modification" will look just ameturish n unfinished.

Hope to see the finish kit soon! Gambate

Rust consist of thousands of colors, there's no 1 color can recreate it.

It's just like during school your art class. what water color will u use to paint rust on a piece of color?

look for brown series color, get at least one brown, 1 yellowish brown (eg tan), 1 redish brown. with at least these few colors, u can create realistic rust effect.


1. flat first then gloss, u ll just get not very glossy gloss.

2. These r 2 totally different material.

Be more specific. What u wanna know about the difference? chemical composition? methods on working on resin model kits?

Very difficult to answer your question like that le. It's just like asking "what's the difference between plastic and metal?"

So far Bandai's kit are all plastic, in general term. More specific would be PS, PE, ABS.

Resin kit has quite a big difference in handling from injection plastic kit.


One important note: Gunpla is made by Bandai in such a way that it's actually half toy half model kit. Hence even without much work n paint, the kit looks pretty good. On other hand, resin (though now there r some that comes in different color) usually comes in one color. So for those who havent painted fully a kit before, resin is big no no; unless u like your gundam looks yellow color.


Even if your have some experience in painting gunpla kit, with no knowledge on "basic modeling skill", resin is also not recommended.

So what's "basic modeling skill"? a bit hard to explain... mebbe we look at what a resin builder has in his arsenal of tools, u will have a clearer picture what kind of skill level needed.

A resin builder most likely will have:

- drill bits n pin vise, brass rod of various sizes (for connecting pieces together. u need to drill holes on both parts, cut a brass rod n use that to fix n connect, eg the leg to the groin part)

- panel line scribber, chisel (at least some experience in panel line scribing, coz most likely u need to rescribe or make panel lines equal depth n width. Also for wide panel lines, usually need a chisel to flatten the base of the panel line)

- sand paper, sanding block, file set, putty, polyster putter (at least quite confidence in covering seamlines n filling up holes. if u think filling up seamline gap and covering sink hole is troublesome in gunpla, u ll not like the hundreds of tiny "sand hole" - direct translation on resin's surface, which are result of air trapped in the resin.)

- file set, knives, lots of putty (should have experience in tackling mold lines, fitting issue in gunpla. resin suaully have more mold lines n the fitting is not even 50% as good as gunpla. Hence a lot of sanding n minor modification needed. one of the basic task is, if on one piece of part, there r 2 different height surface, u at least should have confidence in making them the same level)

Other stuff that looks like they r not related to modeling:

- thinner, container for water, soap, brush (at least should have some experience in washing n making sure the surface is clean n free of oil in gunpla. If one thinks gunpla surface is 90% clean n oil free, try this: pour some engine onto the gunpla piece, wait for 2 weeks until the oil is dry on the surface; now, let's try clean it off until primer can sit tightly onto the plastic. This is the first thing in Resin building: cleaning)

- hair dryer, heater n other heat generator (resin tends to warp, like 1000% worse than plastic. So is pretty everyday work that u need various ways to heat up and make the warpped part straight again)



I hope i m not too potong stim. btw if u know tkting or mgs2u.com, u can contact him as ask for some guidance. i think he's working on resin now n will continue to focus on that for trying to promote resin building among the young generation.

Hope this help

Bro, i think you should give it a try la. Especially resin offers a lot more choices, especially for the niche market stuff which big company cannot justify the cost for producing injection kits.



Just say it is more like a very fine n slightly less crispy gypsum(plaster).

for shops in KL, as i know, AF hobby (Ampang), multifilla(Belakong), ICW (PJ). Depends on where u stay, go to the nmost convenient one.

yeah it's near The Mines.

Tons of tools there for it cater very much to industrial design students at nearby universities. From plastics, to wood, glass, all sort of sculpting stuff.

The only drawback is, if u r looking for Gunpla specific option parts like metal thrusters, can't really find it there.

Google multifilla, and their website provides map n address. IF they dont have map, use the address for google map.