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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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rayloke
post May 23 2012, 01:56 AM

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QUOTE(Genesiscrew @ May 21 2012, 07:46 PM)
A question('s) icon_question.gif . Should i get an airbrush set or just a top coat spray?  rclxub.gif i mean, i collect gundam for a long time but never dare to paint them(yet). is it hard to paint using airbrush? is air brush set worth for me to get? my interest tend to fade over time then reappear again blush.gif  .
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get can spray. if tomorrow u just dont feel like doing it anymore just throw everything away.

when u get more mature, then u can consider getting something more committed.
rayloke
post May 25 2012, 01:52 AM

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QUOTE(copycat013 @ May 23 2012, 07:35 PM)
What do you guys do if over coat?? i.e the small of 1/144 scale head or 1/1 scale LBX head. . .  icon_question.gif
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Sand off the color, redo.
rayloke
post Jun 5 2012, 07:10 PM

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QUOTE(clivengu @ Jun 2 2012, 12:54 PM)
May I know what is the best way to achieve chrome mirror finish effect?

1. Primer> Black Gloss> ????

what product should i be using? I seem to remember something like a graphite powder that can rube onto the black gloss and it will magically turns mirror after polishing. what is this product and where can I get it locally?

... or alternatively .. will any metallic spray finish can have better result than this?
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QUOTE(guitar89 @ Jun 3 2012, 12:53 PM)
Hi, I am also looking for chrome mirror gold paint for my model kits.
Any idea to get this effect?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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Hahah the question, after submerged for about 2 years, float out again...... huhu hope wont get some scolding from the staff again....


Ok i have done something similar... but i rather not sell the stuff yet if u r looking for it. prefer if u could drop by my place, i can explain it further n u decide whether u want to go that far into the hobby or not.

I prefer not to just sell the stuff cause without proper workmanship, it will look sh*tty..... And yes, with proper use of graphite powder one can create a very similar effect to chrome. And the brand acladII's chrome also does create such effects....

Both material have the same pre-requisite: proper workmanship/preparation for the chrome paint to sit on top.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
rayloke
post Jan 10 2013, 06:30 PM

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QUOTE(geckookceg @ Jan 3 2013, 11:31 PM)
hello sifus, not sure if its the right thread..

im planning on doing dioramas for my figurine collection.. need help with some things..

1) base of diorama
- i read plywood is strong enuff, can get from popular..
yes. or anything that is strong enough to hold the dio when u move it around

2) building material
- saw/read that foam core is usually used besides other materials.. Juz wondering where can i get these foam? I tink normal Styrofoam is not able to the same... Foam Core
this is normally what we call compressed foam. it's more compressed than normally styrofoam, so it can be sanded, and oso when u cut it to certain shape, it's easier to do so. Garden art friend, or belakong multifilla sells these


- for making trees, found some alternative where you can make own trees.. juz wondering if woodlands scenic materials can be obtained in malaysia? Can recommend me?
garden's art friend & Infinite Creation workshop /ICW (PJ)  has some.

- another component for the trees sifu, this material, where can find in malaysia? I tink its called polyester fibre... Tree making
u can get from online store like hlj.com. cheaper way, try find those nylon or polyster sport bag people throw away; cut out, and slowly pull out the fibre. Note: u need to dye them


- for water effect, there is realistic water material.. but seems expensive.. can i know where to get the sealant as in the link provided? something that takes bit time to dry, about 1-2 hours.. so that can sculpt a bit.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFOpc8Q6a7M
for this, pretty much u have no choice unless u work in chemical industry that deal with such material where u can ask your supplier to give u some sample. silicon gel & white glue are the cheapest, but mainly to create waves. Still water, probably the best bet would be epoxy resin, which they use it to coat tiles. for hobby brand, which is better as for industrial ones, u dunno what formula u r getting. garden's art friend, belakong multifilla, PJ ICW sell them.


- white glue that is normally used, is it pva glue?
depends on what u glue


3) paint/coat material
- water colour should be ok i tink.. but is acrylic paint good for dioramas? Is it expensive for diorama purposes? What is a good acrylic paint brand?
water color is too translucent, poster color is a better bet. though both is not so durable, easily scratch and water/humidity might affect it. acrylic has many different formulas. I assume u r talking about artist acrylic. those r very translucent. besides that, there r acrylic ink, hobby acrylic etc each has different characteristics n usage


- noticed some people sprayed their finished dioramas with varnish... there is no harm right sifus?
if harmful, they wont be doing it. Of course, in the end, it depends in  what u have used in the dio. look, diorama is not one thing that use formula n such. it involves a lot of creativities, different materials, paints, parts, substances, chemicals etc. Just like cooking a gourmet dish; following formulas will NOT lead u very far


appreciate any recommendations/suggestions..

Thanks.
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Besides, i think asking about the questions u asked, there r better places i can recommend u to. Not suitable to do it here as it might involves other forums too. if u interested, do pm me.


This is my recent work 3 Zakus Is this something u r looking for?

This post has been edited by rayloke: Jan 10 2013, 06:35 PM
rayloke
post Jan 17 2013, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(limfreelance @ Jan 14 2013, 04:23 PM)
Hi,

I do search about the Mr masking sol neo, but ppl complaint it ruin the paint when u try to take it out. sO need to coat a clear gloss coat bfore apply the masking sol neo. bside this, got any other way like wash the masking sol neo with water, so only the masking sol neo dropoff instead of paint?? Acrylic & laque paint included.
No, masking sol wont hurt your paint. Unless the paint applied wrongly n as a result being extremely weak or so. Even then, shouldnt blame on masking sol, anything would have spoil it.

For gunze, there r masking neo n R. Neo, is better u thin it with water first as  it proof to be quite thick and adhesive power being very weak. Without thinning, it's very hard to do precision masking with it. Pro: very easy to peel off. Con: adhesive power very weak, hence cannot alter the shape by cutter after cured.

Masking sol R, is the opposite. thinner and strong adhesive power. pro: thin and can be cut by blade after cure. suitable for precision masking. Con: strong adhesive power, if u r the no-patience type, peeling off likely end up with scratching your paint.

Tips: do not leave masking sol on a spot too long before peeling. how long exactly? i dont know. my experience is 2+ weeks, n i realised the masking sol start melting again and created a whole lot mess


As u mention, u use glue. not sure which type of glue u use. but glue works like masking sol, just that those can be melted again normally do not have guarantee on 100% being water/paint proof. if u r using PVA glue (white glue) basically it is the same as masking sol but the negative point being enhanced: very strong adhesive power and kinda hard to achieve precision masking



planing to get mR masking sol neo as i tired of masking tape.
huhu, normally people will use both. The irregular shape that requires precision, masking sol. straight lines, masking tape.


Thank.
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QUOTE(Raive93 @ Jan 14 2013, 05:03 PM)
a few dummy question,

1. if i am using gaia notes paint(lacquer), then can i prime with gaia notes or mr. color's primer? Because lacquer is very bad on ABS right? then if the primer is lacquer based then will it harm the ABS too? or primer is special one?
I ve read a few time u mentioned about lacquer being bad on ABS... Actually, as Z3r0717 said, not really. Yes, all thinner attacks all sort of plastic; even the soft PC plastic. But lacquer thinner's harm on abs is pretty minimal, unless u soak the whole part into strong thinner n leave it for days.

Maybe u ve mistake it over tuppertine or enamel thinner. That is the thinner that will give u almost instant (15~20 minutes) effect on PS and ABS



2. I know the reason for painting gloss black before painting the metallic colour, but why need to paint a darker tone before painting the main coat? wont lighter colour harder to stick at darker colour?
lighter color stick the same as any other colors on top of dark color.

As for the reason for black behind metallic, if u want, i can explain as i understand. this ll solve many of your other questions too about frosting, pearl color, coating, mixing, metalizer etc. i dont write coz i realized not many read them nor interested to understand it. lemme know if u keen.

So the standard internet answer for your question is: the black undercoat will make your metallic looks shinier.




3. and do you know that any other hobby shop around sabah kota kinabalu that sells tools & paints? I only know that there is one at star city but they sell limited paint(tamiya, gunze & gaia only)
If u keen, i can intro u to a group of sabahan modelers. not sure u already know them. Recently they just had an event in KK (i think in some comic fest or something). Or keep a close eye on the local hobby magazine, HobbiMax. I think it covers the event; n u might find some local modeling friends there. smile.gif



thx
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This post has been edited by rayloke: Jan 17 2013, 11:28 AM
rayloke
post Jan 18 2013, 01:05 PM

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QUOTE(dr.who1977 @ Jan 17 2013, 02:56 PM)
Anyone has idea where can polishing or lapping tool around?

Thank you.
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sorry, dont quite understand what u mean

rayloke
post Feb 25 2013, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(HxiiiK @ Feb 25 2013, 04:03 PM)
yeap, i have a beginner level airbrush set that i think will do the job well enough.. i'll be sure to check with rayloke.. i'd go over myself but it's quite a long drive.. thanks for the info
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Sorry, we r outta stock right now. We only carry the chrome paint, not other paint.

U can try tkting.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Feb 25 2013, 05:36 PM
rayloke
post Feb 25 2013, 05:59 PM

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QUOTE(HxiiiK @ Feb 25 2013, 05:41 PM)
rats.. i checked mgs2u (and i never noticed there were actually different colors by alclad II, pretty silly of me to think they only did chrome silver) and his alclad II chrome silver had a few types, but they were all REAALLYY expensive.. as in.. 3 digit expensive sweat.gif are they really that pricey? i think a google search earlier this morning mentioned they were about RM3x per bottle

any clue as to when you would restock, if you are restocking at all?
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3 digit? probably that's a big size bottle. It comes with 2 sizes. The small one already cost about RM40 (slightly less than that). so the big bottle which is probably 3x the volume might be selling at this price.

Besides that, is not easy to get direct stock from USA due to the chemical control act. The best bet would be smuggle small quantity from countries with less control.... as a result, might oso jack up the price.

So far i have used alclad II for chrome which i think for painted chrome to mimick the real thing, it's pretty good.

Other alternative would be some taiwan brand which i think offer similar result. I dont comment on that coz never have first hand experience. That one is much cheaper. mgs2u should carry that oso.

Other would be Gunze (Mr color)'s super metallic series new formula chrome silver. I ve tried on an untreated surface n looks good. But dunno how far it can go on a mirror reflect surface....
rayloke
post Feb 26 2013, 12:19 PM

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QUOTE(sekngucing @ Feb 25 2013, 08:13 PM)
im try lots of method tu make the real titanium finish

chrome spray> clear colour painting
chrome colour handpainting > clear colour handpainting
enamel colour paint> chrome colour > clear colour

-not any of that satisfy me
-thats why im trying to use mr gunze super metallic (any colours)
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if u can have photo of what u want to achieve n what u have been having, will be easier for others to give u comments n suggestions.

Any paint that mimic chrome, which require unstable particle, usually cannot be coated or have anything sit on top of it. "Cannot" as in it will spoil the mirror finish, turn the chrome into very bright silver paint.

Since u r doing hand painting and metallic/candy colors; these 2 dont really match, if u want a very high standard finish. This might be the reason u cannot get satisfactory result, as to your standard.
rayloke
post Mar 1 2013, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(sekngucing @ Feb 26 2013, 04:31 PM)
ive seen in youtube, handpainting can really give a nice touch to gunpla, of course cannot match the air brush but its really nice
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Agree. Painting is painting, just the tools n medium that's different. And each has its own characteristics, strong n weak point. Know what u wanna achieve n use the correct tool and method.

Using the tools n method that is not specially designed n created for a certain effect, either it will be very time consuming or cannot be done at all. Example: air brush to create dirt and water streak on metal, hand brush to create a smooth powder sprayed metal surface.

With the resources available now, know what u can n cannot or too troublesome to achieve is important.
rayloke
post Mar 8 2013, 11:42 AM

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QUOTE(sekngucing @ Mar 8 2013, 01:04 AM)
ive read somewhere that toothpaste also can be used as polishing compound? really?
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yes, similar. just that these stuff do not clearly state the grit of abrasiveness because not needed to do so.

As General_Nic mentioned, these r sandpaper in liquid or cream form. It works that way. So if u put some thoughts into it, u will realise there r stuff other than toothpaste which can be used for the same purpose.

Toothpaste, autosol, CD recovery solution etc, ring a bell?
rayloke
post Mar 12 2013, 03:19 AM

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QUOTE(Kenero @ Mar 11 2013, 07:33 PM)
thx n yeah typo error its nipper.
nipper or nail clipper which is better. not quite sure but i tried using both
anyway thx shauno happy.gif
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Shauno has pretty much explain it.

for competition, nub mark removal is pretty much the most fundamental: looking at your kit or part, people will not know where the nub mark was originally.

With this, guess i answer one of your question about cut first or color first (on the runner).

As for tools, just like other form of art and craft-ship, the more professional and specific-purposed tool (usually more expensive), means it will save your more work n time. However, basic tools can produce super work too. It's depends on the artist but not the tools.

These are the few stuff i could recommend u to:

Side cutter (an ok one around RM8 ~RM20)
File (one set RM7 ~RM10)
Sand paper #600, #800, #1000(RM1 ~RM1.50 per piece)
Primer (I recommend the hobby type, as for hardware type, u dont know how the characteristics of them. RM35~RM40)
Spray can (This one, depends RM7.50 ~ RM12)

I m glad to hear that u have plan for GBWC! Means u r ready to go far in this hobby! Gambate!


Btw, if u r in PJ or KL area, i would recommend to come to my workshop Infinite Creation Workshop (ICW). It's a place where many gunpla modelers hangout. At the same time u can see many previous years GBWC, Bakuc Winners entries and work which are displayed there; where u will have an idea Malaysia Gunpla scene's standard. (Huhu Shauno's work oso) biggrin.gif
rayloke
post Mar 13 2013, 03:05 AM

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QUOTE(sekngucing @ Mar 12 2013, 10:44 PM)
ive tried to achieve metallic coat, using clear red on silver paint
-but failde as the clear red turn out to become flat (maybe i put lots of clear red coat?)
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Photo please.

there r thousand and one way to cause that. without picture, cannot tell.

As for the clear paint on top of flat paint question, i can explain from the fundamental as once u understand the fundamental of paint, there r thousands of similar questions answered. Sure u want to read a few paragraphs of explanation?
rayloke
post Mar 15 2013, 03:31 PM

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for airbrush, it's personal preference; depends on what a modeler wants. If u want a good finishing why not? if u want to have fun, quick snapfit n play the kit, then i wont recommend it.

For the cost, i have seen people who complain they dont have the money for air brush set but they have boxes n boxes of model kit.

basic set:

hand piece + compressor = RM500~RM600.

Take average: How much is RM550? It is 1 MG unicorn (RM160) + 1 MG sinanju (RM230) + 3 HG kits (RM160) (agak agak la the price tongue.gif)

Again depends on what u want. I m the type who prefer to have 5 nicely painted kit with an air brush set; compare to 10 snapfit kits......


If u r very unhappy with the painting, and having a nicely displayed kit is what u want; again, why not air brush?

rayloke
post May 16 2013, 11:33 AM

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QUOTE(muserella @ May 14 2013, 01:26 PM)
Guys, i'm still new in this hobby. May I know where can I find the paint in spray can in JB area?
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Go facebook and search for JS Hobby, new shop in skudai and from photos, seems it's pretty well stocked

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