It means the smoothness of the surfacer: the higher the number, the smoother it is.

Eg, if u r building something very glossy like a new car model kit, use 1200. normal gundam semi gloss, use 1000. doing rough surface like iron cast effect on a tank, use 500.

It's not a must, but it will ease things up.

To my knowledge, i think there's no solution to it, especially u want painted reflective chrome. Probably the only solution is to get a real plated chrome, which to customize doing so, the cost is enough to buy u a few of the same toy for making one as such.

See, applied paint n ability to be played is not good friends.to have applied paint onto something, basically u r trying to make something "looks" nice, visually. To play with something, basically u r in a process of "destroying" that thing, especially in terms of conflict. By nature they conflict each other.

look at most of the toys, aside from the cost issue, instead of dying the plastic with colors, why dont tehy actually paint the kit? because take for example, a yellow color piece. if for applied paint, the yellow is just one thin layer of paint on top of the plastic. During the process of playing, any scratches will take off the paint n reveal the bottom plastic color, which by customer definition" not durable". But if the whole plastic is yellow, when scratches happen, what we see is still the same yellow; the yellow plastic yellow.

Even car paint. car's metal primer n lacquer paint n coating is consider very durable. but just use a 20cent coin, u can see scratches on it ady.

Some may say," I will play with it more carefully" but to me, that wont work too. no matter how careful u play with it, it wtill have paint scratches. So in the end, u ll still get a scratched kit; at the same time u wont enjoy playing it as much as u would like to.



My suggestion is, like many collectors out there, buy 2 pcs of each. One for keep or display. Another one open up and for abuse.

The cheap type u gotta be careful. although generally the glue is not strong, but due to the low density of fibre of the tape, means it cannot isolate complete paint n thinner going thru it, thinner might get thru the surface n touches the glue at the back of the tape.

When this happened, the glue will have reaction with the thinner n makes it melted onto the surface of your plastic. Very hard to remove n clean.

Ok, this is kinda tricky question.

Actually, even Gaia n Mr color, which we generally call as "lacquer", it's actually a kind of acrylic based paint; a solvent base acrylic.

but anyhow, we do not have to change that, we just use back the word "lacquer" so everyone would understand.

So i guess either the maker of this thinner is refering to that, or he's trying to say this thinner dissolve acrylic paint too.

So in general, in malaysia, we call it laquer thinner

From i see in the photo, i m suspecting when u cut your parts outta the runner, u have already damage the part. From photo, it looks like the nip mark is actually lower than the part's surface, a.k.a a hole. Besides that, mebbe due to the cutting blade isn't sharp enough, areas around the nip has already gone white color. This white color doesn;t only appear on the surface only, but it's actually the plastic around the cut part has turn white, due to irregular direction of force. These part unfortunately without putty n priming n coloring, it wont be disappeared 100%.

However, for other areas, i think u can use a higher grit sandpaper to sand. u can also use compound. Compound actually works like sand paper, but instead of in a sheet of paper form, it's in cream form. normally, sand paper with higher grit is more expensive. 2,000 grit sand paper is still quite commonly found in the market. But grit like 4,000, 8,000, 12,000, is basically impossible to find in hardware shop (Some online shop got) So generally we use compound to substitue.

u can use tamiya coarse, then go to fine. pointer: after u compound, if u see the surface is like with a layer of white color, those r actually extreme fine scratches due to sand paper or compounding, it means u can use a higher grit compound/sand paper to continue. Using compound to polish, if u do it right, your plastic surface can be as shiny as a car body.

P/S: when the grit is going higher, generally we dont call it sanding anymore, we generally use the word "polish"



Don't use detergent when u do wet sand.

The only time detergent exist in modeling is when u wash the plastic part, clean mold release agent from the plastic if there's any exist. Also the alkaline nature of detergent, there'r cases, when u soak the plastic in overnight or for days, sometimes the plastic will have chemical reaction. bubbles will be formed n spoil the plastic.

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Added on July 27, 2011, 12:49 pmYeah, i just confirmed with the owner of the brand. It's what we, malaysian, generally refer as "lacquer" thinner (For Mr.Color).

This post has been edited by rayloke: Jul 27 2011, 12:49 PM

Huhu, i know i m long winded. can't help. old people's syndrome

I wouldn't say stupid, in fact i think u r doing something that can make your kit looks good. Generally is very hard to find high grit sand paper. 1500, even 2000 grit will leaves scratches quite visible to eyes, so if u want something like the original smoothness, at least use compound coarse, if can use until fine even better.

normal hardware shop sand paper can be used. but for higher grit ones, which means the work is very fine n mistakes can be easily spotted, i would recommend use tamiya or other good brands. this is mainly because, the grit is the size of the stone sticked on the paper. Better brand ones tend to have more standardize roughness. while lower brand ones sometimes have mixed roughness.

i usually use hardware shop one until 1200. after that (usually for car model kit) higher grit ones, i use tamiya sand paper.

This is a wip i tried to record various compounding. the part is black in color, so the cloudy, whitish layer due to compounding. i realised if the color of the part is lighter tone of color, it's harder to realise the cloudy effect.

YHes, if u compound, u can actually achieving mirror like effect, something even more glossy than MG HD version. but to that extend, u need compound-Finish. Stopping at compound Fine, u can wow normal people but still can't escape eyes of those who r really picky.

yes.

yes, u got it right.

- i would recommend use enamel over acrylic for panel line because first enamel (using enamel thinner) has slower drying time so u will have more time to clean. Sometimes we do miss out certain parts to clean, this happens. Second, if using acrylic thinned with water, it might have the risk that is it's too diluted, the natural characteristic of water which has strong surface tension that instead of flowing thru the panel line smoothly, u might see droplets being formed.

- the first layer of top coat, it's sometimes quite unnecessary but yet still important. It's like if u r going out to nearby shop just to buy a can of coke, will u switch on your whole house alarm to prevent break in for that 10 minutes?

The first layer of top coat is mainly to protect the base paint; eg, u forget to wipe of one part's enamel paint, n now u need to apply force to take it off; or during ur work u accidently knock the part to some hard object. with this layer of transparent top coat, if these kinda cases happen, it protects, scratches only happen on the transparent top coat but not your paint, so u kit's paint job is not ruined.

However, if u r experienced, these kind of case rarely happen. so depends on your own judgement, u might able to skip this step n save u some time n money.

Besides that, the first top coat is also serve as a layer to smooth the surface of your paint job, to avoid smearing when u panel line with enamel paint. Again it's upon your judgement. if your layer of paint is already very smooth, u have the option to skip this first layer of top coat too.

just some tips from a cheapo (me) trying to save some time n money

Lacquer thinner will attack lacquer top coat.

Enamel thinner will not. that's why panel line after the top coat usually use enamel thinner.

need or no need is up to u. if there'r scratches on the surface, and if someof the scratches is very deep until flat top coat cannot cover, or it's deep until there's whitish color; if u dont like the whitish color, gloss coat first will reduce the visible scratches.

Same concept as those CD recovery fluid to recover scratch CDs.

Haha, u really love to explore various ways of working huh?

As i said, water has strong surface tension, therefore using water diluted paint might have the risk of the paint forming droplets. Meaning, it will gathering itself together n form a drop of water kinda effect. In panel line, u will see the paint "terputus putus". This may or may not happen depends on the thickness of the paint.

Same theory. pour some cooking oil (enamel-oil base) on the table, let it flow to the edge of the table n drop. u will see the oil flow nicely.

pour some water on the table, see it flow to the edge n drop. u will see the flow putus, and some of the water actually form droplets.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Jul 28 2011, 12:37 PM

use polishing cloth. but those better ones cause plastic lacquer is aofter than car lacquer.

1pc of those microfibre polishing cloth is around 9 something (hypermarket sells them, in car accessories department). cut it into few pieces of 2" x 2" (or whatever size u comfortable). Do the polishing with it. after wash n reuse.

I m not sure what do u mean by whitish, any photo to show?

Anyway, primer surfacer is a new product line by Gunze, when u use any primer or surfacer, it's meant to cover all the original color of the plastic with a layer of gray. It means u have gotta paint everything. Is that what u r looking for?


Btw, ICW is initially workshops for 4 modelers, mainly gunpla modelers. Later since there r extra space, we decided to sell some modeling related stuff for local modelers. There r space n spray booth. If u come over, we can demo a little n tell u if there's anything wrongly done, even spray job. Hope to see u soon!

Actually this place is own by 4 modelers, including me.

We use this place as our own workshop for modeling, since then there r quite some modelers friends came to hang out, and sometimes when they need emergency stuff(especially during night), we ll sell it to them from our own arsenal.

Since there r still space, after we made our room/workshop, we decided to open it as a shop n sell some modeling stuff to cover rental, maintainence, electric n water bill.

Check out this thread:
http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=8201

The 1/4 of the place is for selling only. other places are basically consist of tables n chairs, ab spray booth, library, photo booth, display cabinet all for free. our intention is something like a club for modelers.

the display cabinet, if u want to see other modelers' work, there r quite some of them Eg last year's bakuc champion, Gb champion, 1st runner up n such. give u great ideas n seeing other works will push your skill to a next level.

Usually people just come to hang out, find reference (we have the latest dengeki n hobby japan if u dont feel like buying but just want to read), work on their model (we even have cabinet for them to store tools, for those who cannot work at home, so they dont have to transfer their stuff everytime they come), take photo n such.

For example, this fella work his model here n already completed 2 since he started working n learning. just a glimpse:


Usually we share ideas. information, n knowledges. so people come to ask questions; if the question is too unusual, there'r modelers here with different background n knowledge trying to crack the nut together.


In a nutshell, this is a workshop, lair, private club for all plastic modelers.

The only thing we cannot solve right now is: 4 of us r doing this as hobby, so we have jobs n can only manage to open the place at night.


P/S: There r numerous Group build gatherings and workshop (as in learning new techniques in modeling) happened in the place too, which we let them use it for the event for free. If u free, next saturday, 6th Aug, there will be one GB having gathering n showcase of work here. Do come n look see n make some friends.

This is post we put in some local forum :http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...0&#entry3237867



*mod: if u think this is not proper , sorry, pls delete this.

Use enamel paint.

First as i said, oil base tends to flow thru lines/areas fluently. Second, enamel paint dries slower: at least 20 minutes where u still can wipe off easily with a bit of enamel thinner. Lacquer dry too fast. if u wipe immediately, u will wipe away the panel line. if u wipe later, it's very hard to wipe with small amount of thinner. If u put more thinner, again it will affect the paint in the panel again.

if u want to "remove"/"clean" nubs, u sand them away.

If u put paint on them, u r merely trying to hide it. And how well it could be hidden, well, our eyes are too good for that.

yes, after u sand, prime it. after priming with primer/surfacer, all the parts will become grey in color. With this tone of grey, now it's very easy for u to check whether there's still any visible scratches, especially those due to sanding.

If there were, do some corrective action like putty n sand again. If there wasn't any visible scratches, then u can start painting. One of the most challenging yet rewarding process in modeling

Yes!!! Have a great time man! remember to share when u r done!

check this out:
http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZMN001

it meant to fit in the nozzle of normal tube super glue. yes, super glue near the tip will dry after use. but no worry, because the tip is very tight, only a small portion of super glue at the very end of the outlet will get dry n harden. so next time u when u use, just cut of a small part of tube n u r good to go.

Ok this product is 300yen..... ok we malaysian are generally very cheapo n clever. actually we can make this kind of tube ourselves easily.

- Get those vitagen straw, use a lighter to heat up (no burn!) the middle of the straw, while it's still hot, PULL! The heated part will become long n thin, form a very fine tube. Later cut it out into something similar to the gunze's product.

One vitagen straw can make 6~10 pieces if u r good at it.

It's very easy, even school kid can make them.



Masking sol neo n R are 2 different formula.

Personally i prefer R because it's thinner n it sticks better onto the surfacer, which means u can actually trim it with a blade without the whole thing coming out. Masking sol neo tends to be thicker. Due to i still have one bottle i bought last time, once in a while i still use masking sol neo.

Generally i will thin masking sol neo with water before application (if no thinning, my bottle is way too thick). even so, i find that it can't adhere onto the surface strong enough if i need to trim it.

As for masking sol R, its strong adhesive power is a big advantage, but sometimes is also an disadvantage. This will happen after spraying when u want to peel it off. U MUST do it carefully, else, with its adhere power, it's quite easy to scratch the surface with whatever tool u r using to peel it.

If u could pay a visit to icw, i can show u the characteristics of each to u.

Overall i dont think masking sol is expensive, if u use it with care. If u didn't of course , when u knock it over, or u forget to close the cap tight that makes the sol dry out, it cost money.

Here is another cheapo way( I dont know how experience u r with modeling. This is for experience modelers only.): Use white glue (PVA glue). It's cheap, it adhere very well, a little too strong. so if ur base color is not done well, it might pull the base paint out too. Also need to dilute with water. Remember, hobby stuff is actually custom made for making modeling easier n safer. So using stuff not specially made for modeling, can be cheap, yet wont be so convenient n safe.

go for coarse. for normal color besides black, the effect is quite ok ady.

if the part is black or if u want really shiny one, get a fine too.

For hardcore mirror finish, get a finish, and also a modeling wax.

Actually even when u compound with Tamiya coarse, n do it right, it is already quite glossy. In fact more glossy than many kits that i saw out there who spray with one layer of gloss top coat.....

or u r just hink of using compound to get rid of minor scratches, then top coat with flat or semi gloss.....

I think fi want to improve the appearance, the first u need to tackle now is those nip marks n seamlines. Without getting rid of these stuff, no matter how much u modify your kit, it will look half cook/ unfinished.

Good that at least u have the urge to make your model kit look nice! This should be the motivation for your first step!!!!!

For camo...... well, normally it require some experience in painting. I would suggest u go to forums that allow u to start your own thread for wip. With that u can start recording n others will see your progress on the kit day after day or weeks after weeks.

Besides that, u can show what u have done, n what u think is not right etc. others will be able to tell u how to go about it n some of their opinions, based on what they have seen n followed your progress in the thread.

It's like joining an art class. U cannot go into a class the first day and ask the teacher how to paint/ draw an apple. u have gotta start drawing yourself, and the teacher/senior will look at what u have had done, knowing your skill level, n give u guidance or suggestion.

Same thing, asking such question here will not do u any good.



If u r not going to that far in modeling, i can share with u one "curi ayam" or quite easy, yet commonly accepted way in gunpla. Do a "space camo" which only consist of straight lines. Use masking tape to create the 2 different color tone. hope that helps.

Hand painting can be very easy n not nice, at the same time, can be extremely beautiful but tedius.

Look at most of the fine art artist, most of the time they do hand paint, even if they dont, they start up with hand paint techniques. So hand painting is something often overlooked in gunpla.

How tedius hand painting can be? as tedius as making air brush looks like "short cut".

How nice hand painting can be (I mean for mecha, non organism subject)?

Check this out:


Credit to :
blz88bri (modeler)
zoidx_chung (photographer)

This is an winning entry in 2010 Bakwc. The shole kit is hand painted.

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Added on August 5, 2011, 1:05 pm pm the member named oldman in ZeroG forum (www.zerogunz.com). He still carries quite a number of samuel decal

This post has been edited by rayloke: Aug 5 2011, 01:05 PM

space camo:normally in gunpla, duo tone color camo, consist of straight lines.

example:
http://matome.naver.jp/odai/21270084657258...008893626040503

Ha, bro, u should have called me when u were there. Btw, there'r 2 raymond around there that day. the other Raymond is the one won last year Bakwc with his 4 leg unicorn vs Khsatria.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Aug 10 2011, 01:47 AM

Some metal thrusters comes with colors, mostly is red color.

If yours do not, or u intend to have other color, eg blue, yes, u gotta paint it, with clear paint.

if u find the paint having problem sticking onto the metal, prime the thruster with metal primer. Metal primer is a transparent liquid so it wont disturb the metal shine of the metal thruster.