yeah it should be the molding rubber for creating the mould. btw, i sms him liao, he should contact u when he's less bz.

no that's not the same.

epoxy come with 2 parts; looks like 2 plastestine where u cut them out in equal qty and use finger to mix. epoxy ll become very hard after curing and remains the body. so u can use it to build up or mold or create something.

The putty u have is just a normal apply putty. main function is to fill up gaps, like cover seamlines. it lack body, so cannot use it to "create something in 3D. yes, need to dillute to use. just use normal gunze thinner will do.

For those who have fetish on blink blink and chrome finish stuff:



~ SMILE ~ !



*Click to enlarge
(Thank you Entau for the demo!)


Wave/Work's "Black Magic Powder" (Chrome Finish Polishing Powder) is a very useful material for creating chrome, mirror like metallic effect. The main problem we hear from various modelers is, Wave/Work has package them in too big of a pack. As a result, the price is high; especially for Malaysia modelers who majority still haven't got a chance to test it. The price is simply too much for an investment on something haven't been use in Malaysia.


Original packaging (click to see full size pic):


Now small custom pack can be found in KL ady

Not trying to advertise, just sharing result can be created only btw, there's a gathering on 30th august 8pm.... (mod, dont ban me...)

Hi, this is eday's work. The gold parts is one of his favorite mod, which he use brass wire, twist them n glue on the kit. Then prime the whole thing, color. In the end, he slowly use thinner to wash off the color on top of the brass wire and let the original metal color be shown.

I dont think he explain this in this project's wip. If u really wanna check, do read thru his old wip, he should have mentioned it. Else u can search http://www.zerogunz.com for his other old wips. I remember someone asked him the same thing before.


Actually we believe the contain is lead, pure lead. That's why it sticks. Years ago, newspaper was printed with lead, hence everytime after reading newspaper, our fingers are dark (I believe u r not born yet in that era ) It should be toxic to consume by mouth. Besides that it really sticks onto your finger; so recommend to wear gloves.

actually is the same brass wire/rod sold in hardware shop. The only difference is hardware shop might not carry that thickness (thinness:p) specially if u r looking for sizes like 0.3mm, 0,5mm etc. Besides that hardware shop usually sells in roll form; meaning the wire is already twisted into circular form; which is not good in modeling. U will want to have those straight ones if financially affordable.

Where to buy? AHEM Infinite Creation Workshop...... (trying not to advertise again)

Actually u can try mgs2u.com / tkting (the boss). I believe he does carry quite a full range of brass rod n wire. IF u r not from KL, he does postage too.


AHEM AHEM.......... (if u come Monday, can let u test.....)

U can try look for mgs2u.com, afhobby, or even pudu pasar road. There should be plenty of them.

Mainly there r 2 types, both manufactured in China.

1. the type with a fatter body. Advantage: consistent rotating speed, powerful, stable. but not speed adjust; and rotating speed is quite high. fatter body also means u cannot hold it like a pen or pencil. more clumsy for extreme fine work.

2. thinner body type. advantage: thinner body means u can hold it like a pen/pencil; easier control. With rotating speed adjust. Disadvantage: more inconsistent rotating speed. many of them with design of unable to detach ac/dc adapter; means if the ac/dc adapter kaput, might be a problem. * only comes with 1 holder; need to purchase other sizes holder (The part where u attach your drill bit, or sanding stone)


Price average from RM60+~ slightly over RM100.




Option 3, buy japan stuff. darn good to use, but u must be prepare to squeeze your wallet.....

This post has been edited by rayloke: Aug 26 2010, 07:17 PM

This is not paint, it's dry.

Btw, if u dont mind getting the whole box, which i think cost around RM70, u can go online shop. hobby search n hwj not carrying this. HLJ yes, back ordered now.

That's the reason why we repack them into smaller pack to sell. Imagine what entau did with his spoon is just like a sesame seed size patch. If u buy the whole packet, might last you whole life

Local shop carrying this (repack) as far as i know is mgs2u.com and Infinite Creation Workshop (ICW)

This post has been edited by rayloke: Aug 27 2010, 02:18 PM

ok to achieve that kinda mirror finish chrome, actually the surface finishing before applying the powder is extremely important.

The spoon is a spoon with color, which entau used for color testing during his last project. It's a fine polished gun metal

Though the powder "rubbing time" was actually less than 3 minutes, but the surface finishing before that takes hours (Well, in modeling, everything takes hours.....)

if u didn't do well on the surface finish, u will still get chrome, but not mirror finish. Imagine those cheap plated spoon where u can see imperfection on their chrome.


It's pretty much similar to those metalizer paint, eg MR hobyy metalizer paint (The type of metal paint which require u to buff after spraying).

for car headlight, i think alclad chrome would be much better. too hard to rub on those small n narrow space.

If u r from KL, try the local hobby shop like afhobby, time machine, MH, HHQ, infinite creation workshop......

This post has been edited by rayloke: Sep 3 2010, 06:16 PM

Hobby thinner is also erosive to plastic too, but we still it to thin our paint.

It's the amount used and time of the chemical sitting on the plastic. panel lining use very minimal amount of enamel thinner or tuppertine: the amount is less, in addition, it vaporise fast because the amount is less. S it would be no harm; at least for gunpla where everything is big. Unless u r building something like a vessel with hair line thin plastic part; then u will have the chance to see how erosive it is, almost instantly.

+1

me too, if the effect of ab on a certain spot is not way superior to justify all the preparation work for ab, definitely hand paint. Good point madmoz!

I have not tried Mr hobby paint remover, heard it s*cks; no concrete evidence on that though.

However, go HLJ search for this key words "Paint buster". Really good! Though for such a small bottle, it looks really expensive with its price tag; i still think it's worth checking out. Lemme try my best to explain a little:

Usually when we clean up paint , we use thinner. The problem of thinner is it dries fast. We gotta make sure all the paint's off the plastic before the thinner vaporize. cause if the thinner is gone, the paint is no longer "melted" and cannot be clean. So we repeat the process of adding thinner- melt the paint-quickily wipe of the unwanted paint; on n on n on again. Hence wasted lots of thinner.

This paint buster thing, once you apply onto painted surface, the paint melts, and u can clean it. In case when it dries and u haven't remove all the unwanted paint, no worry. This thing has some kind of oil element in it. even after dried, unlike using thinner, the paint is not grabbing onto the plastic surface again. So u can slowly apply the chemical all over the plastic kit; even thought some parts r already, in the end, u can just use tap water to wash everything off.



Of course, if u want to strip the paint for the entire kit, the cheapest way for stripping lacquer paint is still brake fluid. soak it in the fluid/oil, and the paint actually peel off by itself

Think i have that, left one bottle. if u want can drop by my shop; we r giving the thing out for free for testing (small quantity la, dont ask for like 1 kg....)

It melts n soften at 60 Celsius, remoldable, when cool/hard like PVC






*mod: if u think this is not suitable, please lemme know, i will delete the link.

This post has been edited by rayloke: Oct 4 2010, 09:19 PM

basically tattoo sticker is water slide decal. Same thing as what we use in gunpla.

Only thing is, for tatto sticker we could get in the market, since there is no specific standard to it, thickness wise might not be suitable.

Really depends on the quality of the tatto sticker u have.

Agree with shauno. Personally i really love metal transfer, especially building cars. It's like the final step and as if giving the model kit a soul.....!

u got yourself a very nice gift. This is the type of compressor a modeler should get, if financially there's no problem.

Basically it's the same type of compressor u find at your refrigerator; powerful, stable, and silent.

u think it's an antique, well, it might be. But more importantly it says a fact: this compressor memang tahan lama. Mine, i think is at least 20 year old and it's working fine; more quiet and stable than compressors i saw my friends own.

since yours had been idle for so many years, probably u need to spend a little money to give it an overall service. i can recommend someone to u; he's also a modeler so u guys should be on the same wave length. He's profession is actually dealing with compressors. u can also ask him to check out the specs of your compressor: how big the air tank, how often the motor need to run, air gauge, moist trap etc etc.

it might cost u a few hundred bucks (mebbe approx. RM200); but trust me, once it's done, this thing should at least last u another 10 years. OF course, unless u think the hobby wont last that long.....

A tool is merely a tool. It's the hand that holds it, and the mind that controls it really matter.

FYI, 2008 BAKUC (Bandai's (Gundam) Action Kit Universal Cup) World Champion, by a Philippines, nick on internet DC23, was done solely by spray can.





z3r0717: creepy? Hahaha...........

This post has been edited by rayloke: Nov 18 2010, 11:35 AM

whoa reading what u wrote makes me worry it might not happen so smoothly.

I believe when shauno share about this, he's assuming u r using primer as base. Without surfacer or primer, the paint might not be able to hold strongly enough onto the surface to sustain heavy washing (The technique shauno shared), the lacquer gold might, just might, come off too when u r wiping the top enamel black.

not 100% failure but very risky.


To be safe, usually modeler will do this:

primer/surfacer (The surface will become grey in color covering the original plastic) ---> gloss lacquer black (This layer of black is to help the gold looks better) ---> Gold ---> gloss top coat (An extra protection to the gold paint) ----> enamel black ----> wipe enamel black (A general term for this technique = wash)

This's no straight answer.........

ok there's flat/matt metallic too; look at woman's jewelery (matt gold), your watch(Matt titanum) etc. In order to achieve that kind of realistic finishing, u need to have some experience in metallic paint n finishing first. Otherwise u will have difficulty to even understand the terminology, the characteristics of paint.

So i m answering this on the basis of the straight forward, metallic paint ---> coating process.

I assume u already understand the concept of gloss n flat. If u dont, continue reading is pretty much waste of time; go browse this thread again, there r some discussion regarding this issue.

So when u have a flat coat on top of the metallic, the flat base tends to disturb the reflection of the metallic paint, which these reflections are the main thing that make your metallic paint looks metallic. As a result, u might face the risk of the metallic turning into something none metallic; eg, gold become khaki yellow, silver become grey.

This is all depends on which kind of effect u want.

If u want something like a candy coat metallic, the answer is definitely YES for having 2 types of finishing coat.

However, there r cases where people are using coats with a lower percentage of additive/ flat base, to mimic a flat metallic effect. As long as the additive is low level, and the metallic shine is high level, one can still achieve a certain level of metallic effect by coating metallic painted parts with flat coat.

Example: http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=5893

As u can see from the photo, the gold is not a high shine gold. However, it still manage to convert a message to its viewer that it's still gold, or metallic in other words.

He's using Gaia gold with Gaia flat, which in my opinion, the gold is very shiny and the flat is kinda weak, almost close to a semi gloss/satin level. Hence the effect of the gold is still pretty good.

If u want hassle free by using pre mixed paint n coat, i would suggest Gaia over Gunze (Mr color), as the latter's flat coat is a very powerful flat.


Hope this helps.

---

Added on December 15, 2010, 2:05 amThis's no straight answer.........

ok there's flat/matt metallic too; look at woman's jewelery (matt gold), your watch(Matt titanum) etc. In order to achieve that kind of realistic finishing, u need to have some experience in metallic paint n finishing first. Otherwise u will have difficulty to even understand the terminology, the characteristics of paint.

So i m answering this on the basis of the straight forward, metallic paint ---> coating process.

I assume u already understand the concept of gloss n flat. If u dont, continue reading is pretty much waste of time; go browse this thread again, there r some discussion regarding this issue.

So when u have a flat coat on top of the metallic, the flat base tends to disturb the reflection of the metallic paint, which these reflections are the main thing that make your metallic paint looks metallic. As a result, u might face the risk of the metallic turning into something none metallic; eg, gold become khaki yellow, silver become grey.

This is all depends on which kind of effect u want.

If u want something like a candy coat metallic, the answer is definitely YES for having 2 types of finishing coat.

However, there r cases where people are using coats with a lower percentage of additive/ flat base, to mimic a flat metallic effect. As long as the additive is low level, and the metallic shine is high level, one can still achieve a certain level of metallic effect by coating metallic painted parts with flat coat.

Example: http://forum.zerogunz.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=5893

As u can see from the photo, the gold is not a high shine gold. However, it still manage to convert a message to its viewer that it's still gold, or metallic in other words.

He's using Gaia gold with Gaia flat, which in my opinion, the gold is very shiny and the flat is kinda weak, almost close to a semi gloss/satin level. Hence the effect of the gold is still pretty good.

If u want hassle free by using pre mixed paint n coat, i would suggest Gaia over Gunze (Mr color), as the latter's flat coat is a very powerful flat.


Hope this helps.


This post has been edited by rayloke: Dec 15 2010, 02:05 AM

i would suggest believe your own eyes; unless u r color blind, or being insensitive to certain colors. Coz:

1. u can either get a professional color chart, which the color is very standardize n stable. However, just the color chart itself cost about RM300+. Moreover, the color mixture is not based on model paint, but professional printing ink.

2. Read more. From magazines, internet etc, be more sensitive to colors. In case u see something u like, eventhough it might not be a flesh, if u think it suits the project u r doing, copy down the mixture. HOWEVER, dont rely on that.

If u see it from the computer screen, since ur screen is not professional color calibrated, the color u see might not be as the color mixture included. Imagine today u see a flesh tone done by another modeler in the net that suits what u want just u prefer something with more red, so the color mixture in that website cannot be used. However, imagine now i go press the RGB button on your monitor n increase the R level a little higher; now the color in your screen become exactly what u like. But does it mean the color mixture table in the site suitable for you? No.

This is the same with magazine. I m in offset printing industry, i know every magazine has slight difference in color printed.

3. Assume that even after u get the right color mixture table, so what? The paint applying onto your model very much depends on the base color u have. Eg, whether u r using grey surfacer or white surfacer? The thickness/ the color tone of the surfacer?

In conclusion, do not believe in color mixture chart. I personally think those r for very young kids n color blind as a guideline. Moreover, unless it's a very small figurine; otherwise, a 1/9 and above figure, the single tone skin color normally wont look good.

So have faith in your eye sight and your own taste.

If u have problem with your eye sight, eg color blind problem; i can help ask some modelers who have the same situation on how do they tackle the problem (They still manage to create great work).

If the problem is your taste, that's a bit susah liao.....

What u mentioned is just gloss silver.

Chrome, in general term here means mirror reflective. IS that what u mean? a silver like surface where u can almost use to squeeze blackheads on your nose, right?


Basically this technique is not too complicated, but need some practice and experience, and the right tools.

Tools: 2000 grit sand paper, compound(coarse, fine, finish), soft microfibre cloth, (option) chrome powder, acladII chrome silver paint, Gunze Super metallic chrome silver paint.



Option 1:

Surfacer --> Gloss Black --> top coat --> wet sand with high grit sand paper (2000 n above preferably) --> Compound (2~3times with different grit) --> (Repeat the top coat, dry, sand process, until satisfy)--> Chrome magic powder --> DONE (Remember, no top coat)


Option 2:


Surfacer --> Gloss Black --> top coat--> dry (2~3days)-->wet sand with high grit sand paper (2000 n above preferably) --> Compound (2~3times with different grit)--> (Repeat the top coat, dry, sand process, until satisfy)--> Alclad II Chrome Silver --> DONE (Remember, no top coat)


Option 3: (haven't know n seen any person succeed on this yet)

Surfacer --> Gloss Black --> top coat --> wet sand with high grit sand paper (2000 n above preferably) --> Compound (2~3times with different grit) --> (Repeat the top coat, dry, sand process, until satisfy)--> Gunze's Super metallic --> wet sand + Compound (if any imperfection) --> Gunze's Super metallic Chrome Silver --> DONE (Remember, no top coat)


*************************************************************************************************************************


Basically dont be frightened with the long process, this is more for a perfect mirror finish chrome. You can take away any of the steps if u have constraints. But just bare in mind that, the more u skip the steps, the less mirror perfect u will get.

So basic it just, gloss black--> acladII Chrome Silver.

If the parts r small, it will still give u a chrome silver finish impression.